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How much kilometers/miles has the car done? Did you check the turbo shafts play? Oil gets to the wrong side of turbo and burns off? What is your fuel consumption and does the car regenerate often? If the dpf would be almost full of ash, would it cause the internal engine pressure rise that would cause for example oil getting past the piston rings with too much blow-by? Or leak through from some seal?

Having monitored the battery for a few days, consistent low cranking voltage has lead me to decide to replace the battery. I went for the most reasonably priced with the longest warranty. £140 with 4 years for a Duracell from GSF with free next day delivery. All fitted and coded and faults reset. Date code on the old battery was 2019 so it had done pretty well! Disappointingly the voltage on the new battery is lower than the old one! I would have thought they get shipped fully charged but it would seem not. So the charger is on to give it a bit of a top up. In hindsight I should have charged it on the bench before installing!

Having monitored the battery for a few days, consistent low cranking voltage has lead me to decide to replace the battery. I went for the most reasonably priced with the longest warranty. £140 with 4 years for a Duracell from GSF with free next day delivery. All fitted and coded and faults reset. Date code on the old battery was 2019 so it had done pretty well! Disappointingly the voltage on the new battery is lower than the old one! I would have thought they get shipped fully charged but it would seem not. So the charger is on to give it a bit of a top up. In hindsight I should have charged it on the bench before installing!

Thanks to all for taking the trouble to help. Why oh why can't we go back to a simple key to access and start?

For any stranded wannabe mechanics out there, the cause for vibrations was engine mount the left one near expansion tank. Took me a while to figure out. 😂😀

Not sure what's changed but I think the warning is better now. It comes up when the ignition is on before the car starts, but the trouble with keyless start is it flashed past that stage very quickly. However I think the warning shows better now - we've had it recently in our Karoq, Kamiq and SEAT Ateca. Daughter used to run the Ateca (2018 model) and that did go through a phase of the fob just dying and it always seemed to happen when she got to work. She became a dab hand at popping the lock cover off (there's a hole underneath for the key blade to go in) and getting in (the alarm will go off) and starting the car (which stops the alarm). But since I had the car (18mths) it's told me it needs a new battery - did it a few weeks ago. On the Kamiq that can be opened from the Skoda App. The daughter that drives that keeps a spare battery in the glove box just in case.

A battery lasts as long as a battery lasts. Someone using the car multiple times a day obviously won't get the same use as someone using the car a couple of times a week. There should be a low battery warning on the car's display to prompt a battery change. But given that the Panasonic batteries that are fitted at the factory cost around £1, probably easier to just replace it annually or at whatever point you choose. You can open the back of the fob by withdrawing the emergency key around 50% & using that to push against the battery cover. You need to press a button on the fob after removing the old & before inserting the new. Like most things, harder the first time you try it. 😉 As above, you pry the cover off the door handle to access the manual lock, which the emergency key fits.

Thanks for this. After searching, I see a small rectangular hole underneath the handle. Is that where I insert the probe from the fob? When you say remove the smaller cover, do you mean the cover at the left hand end of the handle? How does it come off? Do we get a warning if the battery is low? Thanks again for helping.

There a lock near the keyless sensor on the handle: You need to remove the smaller cover. Inside the fob, there a small key to open the car. Then the car should start even if the fob battery is dead, as it uses something like a NFC sensor to start which has not to be necessarily powered

Link to download MST2_EU_VW_ZR_P0140T sent in PM

In short I should swap the complete engine from my rustbucket LXi Felda into the LX if I buy it, jo? 😃 Cheers for it, would you know if the exhaust assemblies are different?

Anyone know how long a fob battery lasts before needing replacement? How do I change it? I saw a video on line which seemed awfully fiddly involving a long thin screwdriver and much twisting. Why are these things so complicated? Do we get a warning of impending flat fob battery? I read we can use the emergency key to gain access if locked out. It said to put the emergency key next to the start/stop button and the car will open. How do we do that if we are locked out?. I bought a 2023 Karoq and wonder if I made a mistake, what with the constant updates etc.

The below text is not mine but it will help you: ---------------- To upgrade a 1997 Skoda Felicia 1.3 MPI from the 40 kW (54 hp, engine code 135M) version to the 50 kW (68 hp, engine code 136M) version, the engine blocks are fundamentally identical, but the internal pistons and the cylinder head are different. Because the 40 kW and 50 kW models use the same engine block footprint, you do not need to alter engine mounts or swap the gearbox. However, achieving the extra 10 kW requires addressing the differences between the two factory setups: 1. The Pistons (The Core Difference) • 40 kW (135M): Features pistons with a deep dish/recess in the center. This lowers the compression ratio to roughly 8.5:1 to accommodate lower-octane fuel. • 50 kW (136M): Features flat-top pistons. This increases the compression ratio to approximately 9.7:1, which is the primary source of the extra 10 kW. • What you need to do: To do this properly, you must swap the 40 kW dished pistons for the 50 kW flat-top pistons. 2. The Cylinder Head & Camshaft • While the cylinder heads look identical externally, the 50 kW (136M) head has a slightly altered combustion chamber volume to work with the flat pistons. • The camshaft profiling on the 50 kW version is also slightly optimized for better breathing at higher RPMs. • What you need to do: It is highly recommended to source a complete cylinder head assembly (including the camshaft) from a donor 50 kW (136M) engine rather than mixing 135 parts. 3. Engine Management (ECU) • Both engines use the Siemens Multi-Point Injection (MPI) system, but the fuel maps and ignition timing parameters are configured differently to match the compression ratios. • What you need to do: You will need to swap the ECU for a 50 kW version or get your existing ECU remapped to match the new compression profile. The Reality: Is it worth the teardown? Tearing down the engine block just to replace pistons and liners for a 10 kW gain is a labor-intensive project. If you want to proceed, you have two primary options: Complete Engine Swap (Recommended) : Easiest, fastest, and cheapest. A full 50 kW 1.3 MPI drop-in engine is highly affordable. Requires pulling the whole engine unit. Internal Parts Conversion : Keeps your original engine block/serial number. Requires a full engine teardown, new gaskets, and piston ring installations.

Can I come collect this afternoon (Tues Oct 27)? Richard Mills

Thanks Derek, but apparently the spare wheel tool kit for my car is 6VA093860B rather than 6VA093860A. I have no idea what the difference is but will try asking SKoda customer service, but I know that I might as well ask a brick wall!

I test drove an ex demo 26 plate 265 BHP yesterday - 1100 miles on the clock - and noticed the average mpg over that mileage was 25 !!! but that's probably ( hopefully ) due to Demo drives and no long journeys.

I'm looking at a 1997 Skoda Felicia with a 40kw engine, and I'm wondering what I would need to change to get it up to a 50kw engine. The blocks are the same, no? So maybe I could just swap out the throttle body and air intakes?

Sorry you're dealing with this. Neither reason you've been given sounds right to me from the published terms, so it's worth pushing back in writing. **What the terms actually ask for.** In Skoda UK's warranty terms, the body protection (anti-perforation) warranty has two conditions: you report it to an authorised Skoda repairer as soon as you find it and within the warranty period, and the repairer confirms the perforation has come from the inside (the cavities) and is a manufacturing or material defect. It excludes damage from outside influences and from insufficient care. It also transfers to the next owner. I couldn't see anything that says a later owner loses cover because a previous owner didn't report it, or anything that makes a full dealer service history a condition of the body warranty. So you reported it as soon as you noticed it (17 August, at a Skoda dealer), well inside 12 years. That looks like you've done what the terms ask. 1. Ask the dealer to put the rejection in writing, quoting the exact clause they're relying on. "Should have been told 4 to 5 years ago" and "incomplete service history" are two different reasons, and neither is obviously in the terms. 2. Ask what inspection they did. The key question is whether the rust is coming through from the inside (cavity, perforation) or is surface rust from outside, for example a stone chip by the filler cap. That decides whether the body warranty applies at all. Ask for photos. 3. Escalate to Skoda UK Customer Services directly, not just the dealer, with your dates and photos. 4. If that fails, Skoda UK signs up to The Motor Ombudsman's New Car Code, and you can take a warranty dispute to them free of charge. There's a Guardian consumer column from 2022 where Skoda initially refused a Fabia corrosion claim over a paint inspection condition that wasn't in the terms, then ended up paying for the repair in full, so it's worth persisting. One more thing: if you go the Consumer Rights Act route instead, after the first 6 months it's on you to show the fault was there from new, so an independent bodywork report would be useful either way.

The spare-wheel tool-kit for a Fabia Mk4 (Part Number: 6VA093860A) is advertised here for £89 (plus delivery charges) https://shop.wingsskoda.co.uk/products/skoda-spare-wheel-fabia-iv As I think I've highlighted before, a critical difference between the Mk4 and earlier Fabia generations is that the Mk4 requires a jack that can be attached further under the car. This link shows the Fabia Mk3 tool-kit (6V0093860B) that includes a sort of compact 'cantilever' jack https://shop.wingsskoda.co.uk/products/skoda-spare-wheel-tool-kit-fabia-iii whereas the MK4 kit includes a more conventional 'scissors' type of jack, plus an essential extension handle to allow the jack to be wound up once it has been attached to the strengthened metal seam beneath the car. My 2023-built Mk4 SE L model has the 'official' spare-wheel + tool-kit where the wheel is 15"-diameter with a 185/65 R15 tyre. I'm (reasonably) confident that the standard 16"-diameter alloy wheels with 195/55 R16 tyre (that my car has) would fit into my car's spare-wheel well. However, without taking off one of my car's wheels and checking (and I ain't going to do that!) I can't be certain. There should be no problem putting the tool-kit into the 16"-diameter wheel, though it's possible that the extra width of that wheel's rim and of its 195 tyre might mean that, when the tool-kit was in place, the floor of the luggage-compartment might not hinge down fully flat. (It would be worth you checking with The Wheel Shop what the make and exact specification is of the 195/55 R16 tyre fitted to their spare-wheel package. If the tyre has a load-index or speed-rating inferior to the tyres factory-fitted by Skoda, it should really be considered a 'temporary' spare-wheel and thus subject to speed limitations.)

Investigation all possible options, is there a MHEV Mild-Hybrid 1.5 driver without any clicking sound when pressing slightly the brake pedal??

Touch wood he has had it for three years now and no major problems at all bar a bit of usual parts/wear and tear etc and a new clutch but owner before may have been elderly due to lack of miles on clock . Seems to be the simpler they are the better. Its old but only done 80k. Bodywork good and just a small amount of rust underneath on subframe now its got new wishbones. He is looking for something more modern (he wants a saloon which these days narrows it down a lot) but I am keeping it if he gets anything else. Great little car Alasdair

Здравствуйте, будьте так любезны, может у Вас есть MST2_EU_VW_ZR_P0140T скачанная прошивка, которой б поделиться? У меня такая же проблема в 3Q0035864 Translation; Hello, would you be so kind as to share the downloaded firmware for MST2_EU_VW_ZR_P0140T? I'm having the same issue with 3Q0035864. @IVANbb82015 English is the default language on Briskoda. Please post in English. Thank you. На форуме Briskoda основным языком является английский. Пожалуйста, пишите на английском языке. Спасибо.

Going back through historic posts of similar situations. One example here. No published solution: Another post I did with links to the USB drives with LEDs Read this post and back: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/532756-mib3-map-updates-202502-06/page/3/#findComment-5970567 That was the one I was thinking off. @wolfr4ge https://www.briskoda.net/forums/profile/237301-wolfr4ge/

Thanks for this Calston. It's amazing that Skoda UK sell this for £225 and that is 'on offer'!! However, the tyres on my Fabia 2026 are 195/55 R16 and the part number for the kit is 6VA0 938 60B rather than 60A. Can't find that one on Skoda-Parts site though.

I have replaced the rocker cover now and done 400 miles, its still burning oil but I think I now have it to about a litre every 1000miles or so, which is a lot better vs where I was. I think I am going to do piston soak and see if that does anything, I still suspect its piston rings. I also realise that when I had the head off I should have changed the valve stem seals as they can leak as well, so I am going to have to borrow a tool that allows me to swap them without removing the head. Might do the soak first though. If I can get it to around 1500-2000 miles per litre I will be happier, still not ideal but would be more acceptable. On the coolant side ive done over 2000 miles now and its only dropped tiny amount from a very small leak on the egr cooler pipes, so nipped them up.