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That is exactly how my provblems started. You can do the reset but if returns have a read here on what eventually fixed mine Multi media screen not working and sun roof problems - Skoda Superb Mk4 (2023 > ) - BRISKODA

Good thinking... On the rear of my Fabia's dipstick's yellow plastic handle is a QR code and the Part Number 05C115611H Searching online using that Part Number retrieves plenty of adverts for dipsticks for recent VW Group cars (not just Skoda Fabia Mk4s) that have the 1.0litre TSI motor. I've looked at a few adverts that carry photos, but, although they all resemble my Fabia's dipstick (yellow angled handle, black flat steel 'blade' and with a bent section that plainly relates to oil-level measurement) I can't get sufficient resolution on that section to confirm if any of the advertised dipsticks lack the 'dotted' marking. As it's fairly easy to do, it would be worth @fabiamk4man checking the Part Number on his car's dipstick.

The air quality sensor (1K0907659) appears to have failed on our 2013 Yeti. In VCDS it is throwing the DTC 9481988 - Air Quality Sensor B10AF 04 [008] - Internal System Fault The price of a replacement OEM part was £140 plus the hassle of a 1 hour round trip to collect it from the dealer. So given the price of £20 for a Chinese version, I have tried that. However it is giving me a different fault 9479189 - Signal Line for Air Quality Sensor B10A4 15 [008] - Open or Short to Plus Upon testing this Chinese part on a bench using a PSU set to 12V 0.1A, with pin 1 (12V), pin 2 GND, then I'm seeing 10.5V on pin 3 for a few seconds and then it drops to 9.5V for the remaining time. It is drawing 45mA and then 0mA respectively. I think it is simply a fault part but curious to know how others have got on with the Chinese part? Has anybody got voltage & current values for a known good sensor? The old failed sensor I have has 0.5V on pin 3 and is drawing about 10mA constantly.

Im trying to unlock the messaging function!

Do the fans come on when overheating light is on. If not just wondering if its the prongs in expansion vessel. I used to get the warning on my old mk2. I scraped pins and it was fine after that. Think its the same warning for low coolant and overheating on the MK2 but not sure re mk3 Alasdair

I have an ongoing issue - the engine overheating warning light come on when the engine heats up at start up. It also sometime comes on - when it is a hot day, the air-con is on and the car is being pushed hard. At no time does the engine exceed 90 degrees which is the normal operating temperature. It has had the overheat sensors replaced, but it still complains. Has anyone else come across this and have a fix or suggestion?

Interesting...perhaps it's the difference between using ODIS and OBD11? Is ODIS changing something else?

According to Jurid on autodoc, both the hatchback and estate versions of the Superb MK2 2.0TDI 140HP 4x4 have 282x12mm rear brake discs (build code 1KJ). These have TRW rear brake calipers.

@DerekU is there a part number anywhere on it?

The UK takes so long to get work operational I despair. We are seeing, and theun governnents seems to realise, mych more gets done by individuals ie they buy their solar and batteries rather than uk infrastructure which just drags on an on. What is incredible is the hundreds of thousands, becoming millions, of solar abd battery are rivalling the infrastructure projects ie GWs of energy production and tens of GWh of energy storage. Australia had shown tge way on thus by transforming from almost total Grid dependency to home energy production and storage being very significant in a normal daily cycle.

Think that one is Microsoft getting up to its old tricks. Edge is supposed to seamlessly open them up or save the file but leaves it with that funny file name. That has been rambling on and off for atleast three years on a web search. You just put that .7z extension on it after it appears to finish. I hadn't come across it before until the muttering began. Chrome and Firefox not an issue.

There is elements of that. My son just wants to drive and have the xar systens tell him where he can go to charge up a bit if he gets low. The Google, or Tesla software nakes that much easier telling the driver how busy the location is ie number of available bays and what tge price is which can be half as much again even for the same public charging company. Reading Services has a lot of chargers as does Crawley so should not be too difficult.

Hi, don’t worry, it looks like it’s an issue with your Android system… nothing to worry about. By the way, since they replaced my 5F module, I haven’t had any problems with audio dropouts. Best regards.

@Lutz_91 damn … I’m always late to the party … I’d does look sweet @Binx1310 yep I’ve seen the stick on ones but would prefer to have subtle changes that could be “factory options “ so sometime I may get round to buying both types and seeing if I can cobble the L&K lens onto the regular puddle lights

sold to webuyanycar. That’s it. Thank you!

One of the downsides to going electric for many, including some of those who can home charge, is that it seems to be a requirement with some existing EV owners/drivers seem to make any long-distance trip into a round of almost military strategic planning as regards to charging stops, etc.

I spent a few days on this and did brakes (clean and lube and paint) and also under wheel arches. P40 isopon worked a treat. I only started this to sort a few rust spots due to stone chips which were superficial. Digging around lead to the discovery of rust. When you see bubbling it is too late. The cavity was sound. I've sprayed s50 bolt hamber wax and used the clear wax stuff under wheel arches. The photos show the epoxy spray 2k after chiselling off old paint and then sanding to leave the factory rust proofing, the paint was lose after a sandpaper rub down. Had stone guard grey and then hycote topcoat diamond silver then clear coat. No adverse reactions. The stone guard spray I didn't rate, seems consistency of a primer. The underbody bungs I replaced with aftermarket. There are several sizes 30mm hole along sill x4 each side, but some near exhaust etc. iñ wheel arch the hole is 40mm, see new bungs in photo.

According to Google, you are right; only Russia and China have any up and running. Also, it's rather damning of the UK in that we are one of the very few nations to reduce our reliance on nuclear power stations; since 2006, we have slashed the amount of power generated this way by some 50%, while most other nations have either remained pretty constant or are actively increasing their nuclear power generation contribution.

Apart from the dark winters, the traffic, I remember waking up in Aberdeen one morning and thought I had gone color blind. The city is so grey due to the stone used. Haverhill area is nice. Will be over that way in a few days to do my tax return with my brother. Going to attempt the journey in my son's EV mini which i wish to show to a lady who has a petrol one to turn her away from the dark side. Mega EV journeys planned in next few days. Son taking my Scenic down to Brighton so he will need to charge somewhere abd I have ateip to Liverpool on Sunday which I will use my 40 KWh R5 for so a cgarge needed there as a near 250 mile journey. Use of Gridserve and MFG anticipated which I think are all 59p per KWh for the next 5 weeks or so !

@Tell, @Viper42 and @MartiniB, Many thanks. Worked seamlessly on Skoda Superb 2020 (I just didn't recognise the file name of the compressed folder). Very grateful for all the hard work and patience. John G0GCD

Sorry to hear you have had a bad experience with them, I've ordered a few times from Autodoc and have always paid the extra few pounds to allow to return items up to 100 or 200 days after purchase. I purchased the wrong clutch and it was my mistake, sent them pics and they sent me return labels and the necessary paperwork.

A few years back, when I was the production electrical engineer for Halliburton's based in Haverhill, I had the chance of moving to their Aberdeen operation, as they were closing the factory in Haverhill. I declined and also declined to emigrate to their plant in Duncan, because of mums poor health.

Fabiamk4man (who originated this topic) owns a Fabia Mk4 "Style" model built in December 2022 that he purchased (in Greece) in September 2025 when the vehicle had covered 28,000km. The car has a TSI 1.0litre motor producing 110PS and, although the "Style" trim designator was not used in the UK, the motor's capacity and power-output of his car are the same as those of my own similar-age UK-marketed Fabia Mk4 SE L model. Photos of the engine compartment of Fabia Mk4 cars fitted with that motor show the position (and yellow colour) of the dipstick 'handle' (arrowed on this image). As I said earlier, the angled design of the yellow handle means that the dipstick can only be pushed fully home when the handle is leaning towards the car's front. However, it is possible to establish that the dipstick's tube is straight (rather than curved) as the dipstick can be turned through 90° and still be easily inserted until the angled handle prevents it going any further. Online photos/adverts indicate that the dipstick normally has a 'dotted' oil-level marking section towards its end that matches the drawing in Fabia Mk4 Owner's Manuals. Just for the record (and assuming that my own Fabia's dipstick is the correct one!!!) I've measured my car's dipstick and its critical dimensions are shown on the image below. To make that abundantly clear - the distance from the underside of the yellow handle to the dipstick's end is 525mm - the distance from the underside of the yellow handle to the start of the dotted oil-level marking section is 493mm - the overall length of the dotted oil-level marking is 19mm, meaning that the dotted oil-level marking section stops 13mm from the end of the dipstick.

If the DATA centres or large retail and communications corporations in the USA are building their own SMR,s then that is maybe who should do it in the UK. Again it is public money in the UK thrown at the already huge & wealthy corporations and shareholders.

'Warm' was the term Skoda used, while VW, SEAT & Audi for the same engine used in owners manual 'Hot' or 'Normal operating temperature. That is Germans for you and lost in Translation from Czech, Spanish, German, to English or US English. Lost in translation.