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I second the above - my daughters suffered similar misting of the nearside unit on a 2017. I found run off from the bonnet was falling straight on to the indicator bulb holder so used some silicon grease on that to prevent ingress there, ran PTFE tape over the top of the headlight at the joint between the 'glass' and rear section and also used some duck tape to direct water run off from the bonnet away from the indicator bulb holder. No more problems since.

Hi pab567 Could you send me the link for the 0369 please? Cheers Dale

The seal along the join between front and rear of unit has probably failed. It did on one of mine so I ran a bead of clear sealant along the join and ran my finger along to smooth it out. Job done. However it may not be needed. On the rear of the unit there are 2 rubber covers. Pop them off, leave it for a few hours and it will clear itself. That may sort it or you can use a hair drier blowing through the openings which will speed things up. Have a look at the rubber covers as they may be damaged or not sitting around the opening properly.

I do too, they have a weird side effect that the electrics don't shut down properly when you switch the ignition off if any of the other interior lights are turned on!

I just asked for a diagnostic for this intermittent cut out at traffic lights and slow revs but was told they want £150 pounds to check it the car is still under warranty and has had this fault from new they originally tested it and said no fault found.

Are this covers aftermarket good? Febi?

Now it is time to Check you tires. Go to road hunter test. Test ocour road force in simulation with load. IF the road force were under 60 niutons it should be ok. But tire technican Can optymalize set of tire in realiom to wheel ring. I had to throw away 2 tires because road force was ocet 100 niutons

Yeah, I meassured dimension on every wheels, Its aproximetely 0,2mm difference between center and wheel - OEM. Orginal bolt are spherical, thats why it centre by this surface not by the center hub. I used insulatoon tape 0,13, in my opinion, vibration still exist. Of course you have right, 0,2mm its too much.

These ones. Had no issues. The black trim needed a tiny fettle for them to install perfectly but otherwise have been perfect. I just found this on AliExpress: https://a.aliexpress.com/_EJBESM6

I don’t know if I am being stupid and missing something, but I don’t seem to be able to turn off the auto high beam once I have turned it on without flash banging other drivers. From what I can tell once the car is started and you turn on the auto high beam by pushing the stalk forward, there is no way to turn it off again without flashing the main beam, if you push the stalk forward it turns on the normal high beam, if you pull back on the stalk to flashes the high beam. Am I doing something wrong?

Highly possible that the AE switch is faulty, strongly suggest getting genuine OE replacement from another source.

Found this on AI not sure if it helps plus above my expertise. 1. Check for a Swapped Connector (Common Mistake) The plug for the G80 Needle Lift Sensor (Injector #3) and the plug for the N108 Timing Valve (located underneath the injection pump) use identical 2-pin connectors. The Issue: It is incredibly easy to accidentally swap these two plugs during a timing belt job or head rebuild. If swapped, the ECU tries to read the timing signal from the actuator solenoid and vice versa. The Fix: Trace the wiring. Ensure the plug coming down from Injector #3 is connected to its true engine harness partner, not the N108 solenoid loom. 2. Verify VCDS is in "Basic Settings" Mode If you are observing the value 38 while inside standard Measuring Blocks (08), the ECU is actively using the N108 solenoid to electronically correct and fight your physical movements. This can mask your adjustments on screen while causing the engine to clatter or stall. The Fix: You must click [Switch to Basic Settings] inside Group 000. When you do this, the glow plug light on your dashboard should start flashing. If the glow plug light is not flashing, you are not in Basic Settings, and the timing number will not reflect your adjustments. 3. Check Group 004 Data (The "Blindness" Test) To verify if the ECU can actually see the timing, exit the graph and go to [Meas. Blocks - 08] -> Group 004 while the engine is idling: Field 2 (Specified Start of Injection): Look for what the ECU wants (usually around 0.5° to 2.0° BTDC at idle). Field 3 (Actual Start of Injection): Look at what the engine is doing. If this field stays locked at 0.0° or 0.5° BTDC and never shifts when you rev the engine or move the pump, the ECU is not receiving the signal from Injector #3, despite the injector's resistance being good. This points to a broken wire further up the loom toward the ECU bulkhead. Field 4 (Cold Start Valve Duty Cycle): If this is stuck at a flat 3.0% or 96.8%, the ECU has given up trying to control the timing loop. 4. Check the Pump Hub Mechanical Offset If the mechanical timing belt installation is off by an entire tooth on the injection pump sprocket, you can experience a clatter-to-stall sweep while the internal windows of the pump hub remain physically outside the window of what the ECU's internal algorithm can map. The Fix: Pin the engine to absolute TDC. If you cannot drop the factory locking pin straight into the injection pump hub cleanly, the belt needs to be loosened and the pump repositioned by one tooth. Alasdair

I have a Skoda Citigo (2017). The nearside headlight appears to be misty. I think this is condensation. Any advice how to cure this would be appreciated. Thanks.

Did you mean that this issue with wheel centring? This tape could solve issue when u do not have OE wheels, but my car vibrates only sometimes- on the same speed on TA sometimes vibrates and sometimes not

That’s the difficult part: a manufacturer’s goodwill contribution and an official safety recall are two very different things. If VW has acknowledged an issue in Spain, I’d try to establish whether it’s covered by a formal recall, a service campaign or just a technical service bulletin. The distinction matters because the remedies and customer rights can be quite different. It’s also worth checking the VIN with a VW dealer and the relevant national vehicle-safety authority rather than relying only on what a dealership says. If the fault is recurring, keep the inspection reports, invoices and all correspondence in writing. That gives you a much stronger position if you need to challenge a refusal to cover the repair.

They all come with QC sticker, btw never had any problems with decent leds from ali. Don't think you got better product here in EU only because you pay more money

Do you recall which ones, I have some reservations about untested Chinese LED lights Not because everything isn't made there, but I have the impression that those from Ali and Temu don't go through any quality control process to reduce the cost.

It is in the manual, just tucked away in the Wheels chapter rather than under anything called rotation. Skoda say "for uniform wear on all tyres, we recommend that you change the wheels every 10,000 km according to the schedule", and also to follow the running direction arrows on the sidewall. So on directional tyres it's front to back on the same side, as above. The bit that catches people out is the tyre pressure monitor. On most Karoqs it isn't sensors in the valves, it works off the ABS wheel speed sensors and compares how fast each wheel turns. The manual says to save the pressures whenever you change the pressure, change a wheel, or change the position of a wheel on the car, so a rotation counts. What I'd do: Swap them over, then set the pressures to the sticker inside the fuel filler flap. Front and rear figures are often different, so don't just leave the pressures that were in each tyre before the swap. Use the half load or full load figures depending on how you normally run. Do it with the tyres cold, then with the ignition on go into the vehicle settings, tyres, and store or save the pressures. If you skip this it can throw a warning a few days later as it learns the new rolling sizes. The manual I checked is an earlier edition than a 2025 car so the menu names might be slightly different, but the steps are the same.

Hello new member here. very interested in the DCC slider mod and would like to get the contact details of Julian if possible. Have Prokit springs fitted with whiteline sway bar. coming from a golf mk7R, suspension in superb is disappointing. cheers

Look at the sidewalls of the tyres. You need to check if the tyres gave a directional tread usually this is indicated by an arrow moulded on the sidewall of the tyre, the arrow points in the direction of rotation so these tyres can only be swapped between front and back on the same side. Some tyres will have the word Outside on the sidewall to make sure it’s fitted correctly on the rim, the other sidewall will have Inside moulded on it and it shouldn’t be visible when the wheel is on the car. I swap fronts to back every 10k miles to balance out the wear, fronts generally wearing fastest.

As a form of update the ECP boot kit was the wrong size too small. (ECP 656780050 GKN/Lobro Pack also says 303558). As I already had the full CV with boot kit from GSF 853002 was another part from GSP I had ready and that was perfect and we ended up replacing the CV joint and the boot it was all opened up anyway and it was about £55 for it. I Returned the GKN/Loboro to Euro and the other 803024 incorrect full CV kit which I returned to GSF. Hopefully lasts a lot longer this one. I think I should have trusted the parts suppliers more than AI on this one!

Hi everyone. I'm from Sevilla, Spain, and I just bought my 2022 Kodiaq. I'm sure I'll learn here a lot of useful things about my car. Thank you all in advance.

the code changes n adaptations can b done using VCDS or OBDeleven. the parameter file (dataset) for the TPMS module (65) need to b done via ODIS or VCP.

Point is before swapping the MIB my friend made with ODIS a backup of both of 5F presets and adaptations but maybe something went lost… @JR RS I don’t remember : was in Your guide a list of all the codings to do in all the control units You said with ODIS and/or OBD11?

Hi Friends, I have a Škoda Octavia Mk2 Ambiente and recently installed a 1K0 937 087 Q BCM along with an OEM auto headlight switch. The rain sensor was already installed from the factory. I have completed the necessary coding using VCDS, but I’m still facing an issue. When I turn the headlight switch to the AUTO position during daylight, the headlights remain ON instead of switching OFF. Ideally, the headlights should automatically turn ON when it gets dark and switch OFF during daylight. I also have access to ODIS, so I can make any additional coding or configuration changes if required. Has anyone successfully completed this retrofit on an Octavia Mk2? Could someone guide me on the correct coding, adaptations or any additional configuration required in the BCM to get the automatic headlights working properly? Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!