All Activity

Yep, try screwing on/off any tyre inflator including the Skoda one, you let more air out, even if you have smaller fingers. Have to use a manual pump with the lever type connector .

Version 1800 No warrenty your own risk https://mega.nz/file/Mi0QjBAZ#TqU-7_tkt9Zu4LlE4FVA78FABUH2fYqGyOWx-tpR0pc

I haven't had anyone in the rear complain about sharpness of bumps, to be honest. And I've ridden in the back myself, I can say it seems comfortable. What tires and pressures are you running? PS - there are two types of subframe bushings for the rear. Do you maybe have a list of PR codes for your car? I've sent you a PM!

Maybe overfilled at some point and canister is clogged/fuel in it plus check hoses are secure. It could also be a bad evap purge valve but on a 2025 car ?? Alasdair

Unfortunately I have no firmware for MEN3 units :(

From memory the one for my octavia was around £15 Alasdair

It's an usual practice for the VAG ecosystem.

Great thank you both that's very helpful. I'll look for those brands instead as daft to cheap out and end up doing it again!

it's a DIY look here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cr8IIU1RkLk be sure to pop the airbag cover from underneath in order to not damage it or the dashboard for reference: https://www.skoda-parts.com/spare-part/6q0959263a-heat-limiting-resistor-skoda-5971.html

Any opinions? Sorry for the bump.

Thanks for the replies. After giving the matter further thought and reading up on it, I now believe that the key, being in a tight pocket of my jeans, un-synchronised itself by the buttons being inadvertently pressed a number of times when the the car was out of range. Then when back inside and and furiously fiddling with the fob pressed against the start button, it re-synchronised as it should and at the same time, I must have unwittingly locked the car, thereby activating the safe lock! For that scenario to be correct, it would mean that an un-synchronised key fob will still unlock the car (?). Any thoughts?

I had a 'puncture' quite a fw years ago that I couldn't find. Turned out to be a small sticker on the bead of the tyre that had a crack in it, leaking air through the middle of the sticker. Sticker removed, no further issues.

treid pretty much everything as far as settings goes. cant even get volume through the phone on it`s own..

Do you still have the broken piece? If so, scrub up the chrome face of each piece with abrasive paper or a file, then use araldite to glue it back together with a steel or aluminium reinforcing plate over the chrome to add strength. Araldite is remarkably strong when left to set properly. It won't look great but you will then have the time wait until you find a correct replacement. Contacting sellers who are breaking Superb Mk 1's will surely come up with one eventually.

Could be the prongs in the expansion tank are dirty hence the alarm. Try giving them a scrape with a screw driver and top up to max and monitor it. If theres still white smoke its most likely HG especially with release of pressure and brown coolant. You could run the car stationary without expansion cap and look for bubbles in tank or oil on top. Alasdair

Fitted an NRF one to my old octavia and had no problems. Have a look if febi do one as well. Avoid any brandless ones on ebay etc. Alasdair

I had similar problem. Very slight corrosion on alloys and tyre leaked at bead seal I checked before reinflating as my compressor was borrowed and it was around 25psi and a few bubbles were spotted. Reckon a flake of paint may have caused it and cleared itself once reinflated to proper pressure at garage. Eventually it started to deflate again so I got the local tyre service to remove and clean rim and reseat tyre. Been good since. Never had a bead seal go on steel but alloys seem to be prone. Alasdair

After a week on the road in the Heat of Italy, still works fine 👍🏻

In case anyone finds this thread at a later date, I got quoted £1718 for the OEM retractable towbar fitted at my local main dealer, DM Keith.

@pab567 Hello, I am looking for the latest firmware update for my Skoda Scala (MIB3 Bolero). Here are my current system details: SW Train: MEN3_EU_SK370_P2345L MU SW: 1790 Could you please share the link to download the correct and newer firmware version for my unit? Thank you very much for your help!

Good morning Got the classic speed 4 only fan issue so think the heater resistor needs changing. Firstly, I'm a mechanical novice. Is it realistic for a DIY job? Secondly, finding a vast range of prices for the part. Can anyone recommend a decent quality part that will last please? Many thanks!

I think we all find have our own level with it - risk vs spend on prevention. There are Imany far better, dearer cars in the houses near to me, out on driveways….but car thieves are as discerning, if not more, than vRS owners, haha.

Thanks @rum4mo , I believe my car uses the newer R-1234yf (I just had the system re-charged -- it had been struggling to cool at times, just barely noticeable; I think I recall overhearing the mechanic comment on the gas version; it was in fact approximately half down on the gas charge -- remarkable that it was still cooling almost-always mostly-well at that, against 40°C outdoor temperatures for hours on open-to-full-sun French Autoroutes at 130km/hr! ). I found some ambient temperature - gas - pressure ranges numbers online against which to compare. My one concern is about being actually driving while having the OBDeleven app talking with my OBDeleven (Bluetooth-connected) sensor (1st generation OBDeleven device) scanning, because I've noticed that some car systems/ control units seem to react to the fact of being scanned, and I don't want something critical to driving to suddenly be affected by the scan. Any experience, scanning with an OBDeleven (Gen 1), while driving (an Octavia III Facelift, 2017-2020 model, Diesel 2.0DSG-7)? My fallback is to drive a bit (making the engine work, in the sun, with the A/C on), park at the edge of a fuel station, and immediately start the OBDeleven scan. thanks,

Hi there! Looking around forums and tube I saw some Audi and VW guys upgraded their Virtual Cockpit with sporty layouts (like RS Audi or R for VW), where the rev counter is definitely more awesome than standard and You can see also all the sport info You want, from Turbo pressure to oil/water temp, kw available etc. (actually I activated only performance monitor on infotainment). So my question is: is possible to activate/upgrade Skoda RS cars layout on my 1.5 car (as the one in the pic, which is the one for Octavia RS)? The only thing I was able to do was putting RED rings around rev meter/speedometer. The most sporty layout I actually can see is like the one attached BUT rev meter is available only as circle behind the speed and not as the one attached (which I like more). Any idea how to code it?

Hi, My Kodiaq has been registrated in April 22. I let almost all driver aids ON all the time. I ´ve got used to them, especially Lane Assist. Whereas I used it only on long motorway trips in my MY17 Superb Estate Mk3, it’s now always ON on my Kodiaq as I feel it less intrusive. The only system I ´d like to permanent my disable or at least mitigate is the Stop & Start. But it can’t be done anymore with VCDS (with the ´low voltage start limit’ trick), as it used to be. I’ve driven a MY25 Kamiq as a courtesy car last year. It bipped each time I was above the speed limit, Even for 2 or 3 km/h. Really stressing and nerving especially when the TSR doesn’t get the right speed sign at the right time… I ´m then doubting. Will I replace my current Kodiaq within 2028 (roughly) or do I keep it a bit longer ? Decision, decision…