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get a new unit

Got you. 👍

I believe they are doing their own thing as they have done this work numerous times and the small repair panels available are just for the outer skin but that area is double skinned and the inner layer will be where the rust started so just replacing the outer area will hide the main culprit. For the cheaper quotes it will be cutting out a square, welding the new bit in then filling and sanding. Really the whole rear quarter would need repainting. A 5 door would probably be cheaper but mine is a 3 door so to be sprayed properly the rear window will need removing whereas the 5 door has a handy door!

The oil is below threshold at first startup, yet there is no light .... that's because the on/off switch has been routed through the computer, to interpret it, instead of just displaying the result on the dashboard, like most other cars I've owned in the past. 🙂

Thanks again for your rapid, helpful replies. Really gets to the heart of the matter. 👍🏻

No need to replace parts with the logic ''if it's not this, it would be the other" etc, this is an money spend situation which never ends. A mechanic can diagnose the wheel bearing when the car is on the lift-jack and turn each wheel by hand.Also turning the steering wheel full left-right and vice versa. Have you ever check or replace the steering wheel fluid? Have you listen with the hood open and the car standing if the noise comes from a pulley? Brake pads whistle when braking, the bent brake discs create vibrations while braking. I had a situation with a grinding-squeaking noise while moving in reverse or when turning in U turns. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/541160-grinding-noise-in-reverse/

Not sure what you mean there. The pressure switch is just an on/off switch. Oil pressure above threshold it shorts the wire to earth, below threshold it is open circuit. Or do you mean it should work at any rpm?

Got it, will give you a call.

My interior lights have stopped working when I open the doors. Feels like the switch has been a bit iffy for a while, but now seems to have completely stopped working. If I manually press the buttons on the individual lights they will come on. See video for demo. Any idea how to get the switch out and repair or replace? (Or any other ideas what it might be?) Cheers! PXL_20261027_140436403.mov

''No, the exhaust assemblies are identical between the 40 kW (135M) and 50 kW (136M) versions. Because both versions share the exact same 1.3L multi-point injection block layout and 8-valve cylinder head shape, they use the same: • Exhaust manifold • Front downpipe and catalytic converter • Middle resonator section • Rear muffler assembly The factory 42mm exhaust bore diameter is more than enough to handle the extra 14 hp from the 136M flat-top pistons''.

A GOOGLE-search on "6VA093860B" retrieves no entries, while a search on 6VA093860B just retrieves this one (that does not include that specific Part number). https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/en_CZ/set-for-spare-wheel/p/6VA093860 Conversely, a search on "6VA093860A" retrieves masses of entries, including the advert shown below that shows the polystyrene 'box' and tools that include the necessary jack and extension handle. https://shop.ahw-shop.de/original-skoda-fabia-4-pj-werkzeug-reserverad-notrad-fuellstueck-wagenheber-6va093860a (I don't know why you have concluded that 6VA093860B is the right Part Number for your Fabia Mk4, but everything points to 6VA093860A being the correct number.)

Hello @pab567, I have a Skoda Columbus RNS 510 stuck in a boot loop (Skoda logo appears, then the unit restarts). My unit details: Part number: 3T0 035 686 N Hardware: H27 Software: 6276 Version: C14 I tried an older Josi firmware, but the update fails with error 010306. Could you please send me the download link for RNS510-6276-Update-VIM+Tm_60_35_5.iso? Thank you very much for your help!

Thanks - I gave this a go but it hasn't made a difference sadly. Definitely feels like a loss of power issue! Just weird that it's only affecting the highest setting - all other settings work fine...

Hello Breezy-Pete, thank you, you are right! When disconnected, the oil light eventually shows (after nearly 20 seconds) but it's on the MFD (Multi-function display) in this Elegance model, not on the rev counter with all the other lights (where it should be in my opinion). It takes a long time, and, if there was no oil, then some significant damage could be done in that 20 seconds. Video link is below, so that others can see how it works. (The wire comes off easily in the video because I'd previously unclipped it, so I could remove it with one hand, holding the camera.) I think Skoda have tried to be too clever here, and an on/off switch would be adequate. So it's possible my old switch is fine. By the way, the new one was a proper Skoda one. Thinking this through, my test doesn't actually prove the pressure switch is working, merely that it's providing a signal all the time. To test it more, and prove it drops the signal when there's no oil pressure, I'd have to unscrew it, re-connect it and then run the engine with it unscrewed. But I think I'll leave well alone now. Thank you for your help. Video link: https://youtu.be/Ae1Ofbnhhtk

Just out of interest are they using the available repair panel and welding that back in or just doing their own thing? I'd expect at my local bodyshop (who have done decent quality repairs for me in the past) it would cost in the region of £250 - £350.

I've also been having this issue for sometime as well and it's driving me mad now! I have checked the software version and appear to be on 0324 - is this quite an out of date version (if it is, I am wondering if I will ever see the update that fixes the problem described here) (There does not seem to be any available downloads when I click the Update software button either). Oh...I am a Kamiq owner, but thought it pointless starting a new thread over on that board!

I pushed as hard as I could and went down numerous avenues. The first visit to the dealership and first rejection was a joke as they didn't even bother to take any photos. After numerous exchanges with Skoda customer services I was asked to return to the dealership for photos and the claim to be resubmitted. I knew what the outcome would be because, yes, the dealership took photos but only of the exterior of the car. Surely they needed to take photos of the inner wheel arch where the rust started? It was this second visit when it was no longer a matter of not having it serviced at Skoda and annual bodywork checks as I had pointed out it had just started so wouldn't have been seen at a service but seems and edges came into play. Next stop was the ombudsman but then finding out they are toothless and have accepted Skoda's poor excuse to get out of paying up. It is now booked in with a local bodyshop to get sorted at my expense. That's another area to be wary of as you can get quotes from as little as £300 but I wonder what the quality of repair would be. The local bodyshop is a Skoda approved one amongst numerous other manufacturers and I have had them do work before on other cars. We are looking at just over a grand but hopefully it will cure it and not return.

I have seen your messages and able to get to Cobham today

I've been watching this all as my daughter recently bought a Citigo. It has no rust at present as far as I can tell but I'm intending to check and fit arch liners. However, I have a fear that it will rust around the fuel filler (they all do) over time and probably already has (it's a 2017 model). Having said that I think it's totally pointless trying to get Skoda to accept responsibility for it given the Ombudsman's ruling and the usual push back from dealers and Skoda. As and when I'll therefore use a local bodyshop for the repair as the hassle and stress of trying to get it done through the warranty on a 9 / 10 year old car simply won't be worth the effort given the likely cost of the repair. It's crap from Skoda for definite but life's too short IMHO.

I've been down the same road. They will throw a number of reasons at you but Skoda's ultimate response will be the warranty doesn't cover seams and edges which is where the rust starts. Unfortunately the ombudsman has now accepted Skoda excuse for not honouring their warranty and doesn't support claims. As you will have found it is a well known issue that could have bean easily solved if Skoda had bothered to spend a fiver on rear wheel arch liners but they decided to go cheap then when the claims started rolling in they panicked and threw out excuses until they found one the ombudsman would accept. Absolutely disgusting from Skoda.

You're welcome @JR RS lol It's untested and unproven obviously, but I'm hoping it may produce a bit more air pressure into the airbox at speed. I can't see any negatives of this mod either. I was thinking of getting 2 more sets so that I could have the air scooped from below in the same way as the kit is intended on the Golf GTI, but I then realised that along with the honeycomb grille I have on which opens up the full front to air flow, I'd have a chance of debris and rain possibly making it down to the air filter. The Kopacek grille can be seen as a performance part as well as an aesthetic part because of how closed up the standard grille is for air flow.

Yes she wasn’t very happy starting! I’ve got some work trips away and I didn’t fancy coming back to the airport car park in the early hours to a flat battery!

Good that you catch it right on time ... 9V at cranking you very pushing it 😉

Figured it out, you have a message. PS If you can’t send a reply (not enough posts) but can see my messages just say here and I’ll bung you an email address by message.

Trying to see how to message you but failing miserably. :-(