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Good choice as you can't beat an old school PD engine as with annual oil changes they run forever, I got rid of my PD140 at 200k and it was still running strong.

No issues with infotainment so far with CarPlay disconnected.

Thanks for the welcome. I'm sure I will have lots of questions in the next few weeks. It's a close run thing between the Superb and the E-class for boot space. They actually have the same 660ltr capacity but the Merc is slightly wider between the wheel arches and when looking for a car to accommodate my wife's mobility scooter every mm counts 😁

Try Kilen springs as i had good experience with them as you need ones specific to an estate as it sounds like you have either sport springs or saloon springs causing it to be too low.

@Carlston might be able top assist with specs.

Partly to have crisp handling, partly to replace 5 year old parts, partly to chase a creak: Superpro Front and rear droplinks ordered (the creak is front but thought I'd do the rears). Superpro LCAs (standard geometry with poly bushes), H&R front arb. Ordered Superpro but given they're on back order until October, I started hunting around for parts in the country. Whiteline, Superpro and Hardrace are all part of the same group and all on back order, APR/IE and 034 were also rare and the best part of £100 more, but found the H&R one as last in stock at Progressive Parts so happy with that. Given I'd also been lovetapped in the rear (which showed that the rear bumper had indeed been repaired with putty and resprayed) a replacement bumper has been ordered from a breakers in the same colour (needs a machine polish to tidy but I can do that) and to go with it is a Reiger diffuser on its way too. Will tidy and fit all that together when off the car and then put it on with @OccyVRS when the time comes. Coolant Vent Union also ordered but, obvs, Racingline version.

2.0 TDI CR 170 PS (125 kW) diesel, yes this is what has been explained to me that when they do the bench testing they cannot create the conditions under which it is failing. Auto Electrician has been asked by me many times if he’s definitely checked everything and he says yes I can only go on what he’s saying. At this point I either take the car back as it is don’t fix it and get rid or I put two injectors into the group B which I think are injectors two and three, just unsure whether I should trust getting refurbished ones even though they come with a test sheet and 12 month warranty.

Really stuck for answers with this one. I've owned the car for 11 years so I know its history. I'm having some issues with my 2.0 TDI 170PS DSG FWD Superb elegance estate rear suspension sitting too low with after market parts and wondered if anyone knows the correct dimensions or what the issue could be? 2 years ago the N/S rear was catching on some speed bumps with only myself in and 2 young kids. I had the car in the garage for repairs and while fixing them, a broken coil spring was noticed. This was replaced, but the the problem never fully went away. A month later work was completed on the O/S rear and again another coil spring was replaced and at the same time 2 rear arms and 4 wheel tracking. These were pattern parts from one of the local suppliers. The cars been catching ever since and having unloaded everything from the car recently, I could tell that the gap from rear tyre to the arch was far too low. I took the car to a different garage who put it up on the lift. We could see scuff marks to the underside of the newish rear arms, the fuel tank and the plastic covers that run down each side of the car. We noticed a failed shocker on the N/S and decided to book it in for replacement and while the springs are out, measure them and compare the dimensions against the ones stocked at the various local suppliers. The dimension is 368mm and the diameter of the springs on the car are the same as a new part. Skoda themselves won't provide a spring length and say that they only use a 3 colour coding system. We've ran various history and part checks with local after market stockists and all springs listed seem to be the same. This then turns my attention to the rear arms, as only the springs and arms have been replaced and the ones removed will have been the genuine ones from new. I can't buy a genuine Skoda rear arm, because they don't keep them for Superbs, and so if they order one I can't return it and they are £450 each. I'd normally say that springs determine ride height, but it feels like the after market arms could be the issue, but would they really throw out the rear ride height by an estimated 40 to 50mm? The fact that the arms have score marks to the underside indicates they are too low to the ground because spring length sets the vehicles ride height over the wheels and chassis. The arms can only sit lower if the geometry is different. The ones now installed have a slight camber to them and the mechanic thinks some can be straighter, so I've asked them to order a replacement pattern part to compare to whats on. The garage needs the car off the lift so it's going to have to be assembled on Monday regardless and I might still have the same issue. To summarise: I have 2 rear arms and 2 rear coil springs installed from 2 years ago and the cars now sitting too low. Currently replacing both rear shockers and damaged bump stops. If anyone has a genuine rear spring length and or colour code it would be helpful.

P2149 is as far as I know is a failing injector or wiring fault. The injectors would probably have been tested when cold and could be failing when very hot or there is a wiring issue the autospark missed. What engine is in your mk2? Alasdair

So just go carefully with whatever trim tool you have handy to remove the vent. That will probably get you a better chance to get the speaker cover off. Here's a picture of the clips under the grille you need to get at.

It,s a simple test. Just to see what certain engine and DSG combinations do. Takes a few seconds to find out. Once the car has started and foot on brake chose D, look at the rev counter. Then choose S, does the RPM rise? With a Manual Hand Brake car with a DSG for Sprinting it is simply clever, hold the car on the parking brake not the footbrake. Accelerate in D or S on Manual 1st as you release the hand brake. You get a better acceleration. PS, Earlier DSG,s, some applications, 6 speed DQ250 only has 5 gears in S, DQ200 in a Twincharger vRS 7 speed DQ200 only 6 gears in S. Some of the first built would go into 7th at 127 mph in S. (If on Cruise Control & you change the gear selector to S from D as you are just driving it would show S7, or with a DQ250 S6.)

Welcome to the forum. I thought the Superb was actually biggest in class for rear space.

Another thing I would add is solid engine mounts are not the way to go! It’s a tad vibey…

Definitely you can accelerate as fast as you like and the gearbox will deal with it and you should just see the rev counter movements. The example i can think of when i have noticed the change as a jerk would be slowing down for say a roundabout and then you quickly come of the brake and hit the accelerator because it's clear and the gearbox has to go up instead of it's anticipated down. I never noticed the revs being higher whilst stationary idling in S or D, it just appeared to hold gears longer.

When loaded with 3 kids and luggages for a whole week in the boot, my ex Superb Estate Mk3 rear axle also lowered by 1 to 1.5´´. DCC doesn’t change this…

Could well be a loose baffle in one of the exhaust boxes.

Thanks - which end of the HB cables did you disconnect?

This is a bit of a long one so please bear with me but I am so confused now of what to do. I need some advice. Three months ago I was driving back from probably about 100 mile drive and car went into limp mode with flashing engine management light and then cut out completely. This had also happened before a few weeks before on a Short run but was 30c weather by the time AA came out it started fine and drove fine for a few weeks. P2149 is open circuit B, since then it has had injectors sent away for testing. All came back fine, ECU sent away for testing that came back no fault. The car was then moved to an auto Electrician after a six week wait for a spacefor all the wiring to be checked which has come back totally fine. Electrician is now saying his money is on injectors even though they have been benched tested they obviously cannot re-create the conditions and heat Of what is causing the timing of the car cutting out. Now I’m prepared to do the injectors but Cost is insane for new ones for a £3k car, so my options are by all four which are reconditioned with a 12 month warranty for £330 or by two reconditioned and replace group B which is injectors 2 and 3 I believe or buy new or I could just get rid of the car as I’m not sure I’m never gonna be able to trust it again due to the fact everything is coming back no fault at this stage but have broke down twice now because of whatever is wrong with same codes both times, only happens when car is hot. First Garage who sent away injectors and ECU testing were able to get the car to breakdown on them but since being an auto electricians and the weather outside has cooled down considerably they have not been able to re-create the fault just by idle in the car for hours and none of them really have to have the time to drive 100 miles or so to get it to break they are stuck too. I’m honestly so stressed out about what to do. We have lost so much money in cars lately. Auto electricians are saying is best to fix the one fault in my car rather than buy something else which could have a load of faults and I get that but I just I’m not sure of the best way to do this fix. Any advice would be welcome, especially if it’s worth going down the reconditioned injector route for now?

Tires are fine, they get checked regularly. I'd say the drone is related to engine speed, but then again my hearing isn't the best

Yes to all of the above

Hi all, I’ve owned my Skoda for 18mths and up until a a few months ago, it was all plain sailing. I will ask questions on the relevant pages in regards to my recent issues.

I'm guessing that the new calliper when fitted along with new pads, was free to rotate when everything was "buttoned up". If necessary fully retract the calliper, I know that recon'd callipers come with the instruction that they have been already correctly retracted and so don't do anything to them - but I've always redone the "fully retract" just in case and not had any issues.

Apparent low numbers of EV fires occurring in the UK from the couple of million plus registered in the UK. We are where we are. No word of a scrappage scheme yet and banning them from the roads.

Could be a defective new caliper (not common but not impossible) although might be pads that are tight in the carrier. Have had some that were slightly too large and were very stiff. Slight file of the edges and sorted it. Make sure area the pads sit in on carrier is clean and free from rust etc and check pads arent too tight. Also check the rear wheel bearing for roughness and play as well and make sure the discs are running true and not binding at some point. If the bearing or disc isnt running true it can cause disc to bind and heat up/wear pads Alasdair

Not standard on VRS in UK unless you option the leather seats.