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Increased revs are also a sign that it is recharging the battery from a low level. Normal idle revs return when the battery reaches the correct voltage. What you experienced is what you see If the battery is getting a bit tired and the car is only used for short runs. That in turn is not good for the battery. Check the voltage 1) before starting, 2) just after starting when running at fast idle and 3) after a long run to confirm battery health. Your can confirm if yours has had the dreaded emmisions upgrade by means of a small sticker near the spare wheel or by looking to see if it has an "air straightener" in the inlet air path. If so, you will experience more regens as noted above.

https://youtu.be/FoQA1dTqvRg?is=Lo_wHGVGoHSF6Ydh

Video Link doesn't seem to work. Could u re-upload? The whole smartlink activation situation feels like such a scam wherr I live. 400+ to activate it... Id love to find a way to make it work myself

Same here with a Seat Mib2 high running on the Seat FeC this time.... so Xmas comes early.

I think that is down to driver inputs. The gearbox anticipates and pre selects the next gear going up or down, so if you drive erratically accelerating and braking as the car was expecting the opposite it has to shift from a going up to a going down gear. If you drive smooth it is smooth

Isn't all of this terribly bad news for autonomous cruise etc? If so, it rather defeats the ability to set & forget? Or does it not work this way? PS. I am asking because we don't collect our car until next month.

I think I may have cracked it. After observing carefully what I was doing, I have discovered that, on my 2.0 TSI 4x4 with DQ381 wet clutch DSG, Auto Home can be controlled by brake pedal pressure. In a queue of vehicles waiting to get out of a T junction, my Karoq will creep on tickover revs 950 ish, if I very lightly touch the brake pedal it will slow and the green (P) is not illuminated even when the car comes to a halt when I release the brake pedal the car starts creeping again and accelerates when the throttle is pressed. If I press the brake pedal slightly harder the green (P) is illuminated and a tsp on the throttle is needed to release auto hold. This light brake pedal pressure makes switching from R to D when shunting into position much easier too as the car creeps instantly without throttle. I’m unable to verify what our dry clutch DQ200 Fabia would do as it only has hill hold which may not be the same. Hope this helps.

It could be sticking randomly but also might be a broken wire/dodgy connector to it thats sometimes not making contact. Check wiring for wear/breaks etc and inspect hoses for splits etc. Alasdair

To get you started on part numbers, I've checked what I ordered for a 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI 110PS a few years ago, and it looks like your 2011 Fabia 1.2TSI uses the same "72mm" front bearing assembly complete with ABS pick up ring. The VW Group p/n started as being 6R0 407 621 A and that was superseded by 6C0 407 621 and that has been superseded by 6RD 407 621 A. Now, when I ordered my bearing assemblies a few years ago, the FAG offering was 713 6104 and the SKF offering was VKBA3569 - of course with time FAG and SKF might have revised their offerings. Each of these aftermarket kits comes complete with a new plastic dust/debris shield and a new hub nut. It might also be time to check the condition of the disc back plates as they will be getting removed to do this work - I spent an hour of so cleaning mine up - threw some black paint on them - then just bought new ones as in reality there was not much good steel where it needed to be!

Keep a note of which way the adjuster is fitted as they only work if fitted the right way round. Theres a bump at top but cant remember if it faces you or the reverse. Alasdair

Any one had a problem starting there car. Steering wheel wont lock and and ignition wont come on. After trying to turn on ignition it says turn steering wheel can turn all the way left and right and get the same message with no ignition.

I've been using the wheel alignment specialist on Leeds Road in Huddersfield, for years. I took my Superb Greenline Estate to him just after I'd bought it and had 4x new Goodyear eco tyres fitted. He had to loosen the front subframe to get a best-in-the-circumstances alignment, due to the previous owner crashing it. He wasn't able to get the front alignment spot-on, was able to get it fairly well aligned. 34,000 miles later and the Goodyear tyres still had about 4mm left on them. With them wearing more on the inside edge, but nothing as drastic as the photos in this thread. A nail in the tyre at a funny angle this week resulted in me getting 2x new Hankook Ventus Prime 4's for the front. Otherwise, there's a chance the front Goodyears would have lasted 40,000 miles.

Topic moved to Insurance & Legal Issues

Random times, not after fueling, have changed OEM fuel cap. Could be N80 valve but surely it would be stuck open or shut, not intermittent!? Thanks again

You're replying to a fourteen year old post and the poster hasn't been on in nearly two years. Topic locked 🔐

The visitor shouldn't have to work out what you actually do, how long a repair is likely to take, or what happens if you can't fix it. A clear list of services, realistic turnaround times and a straightforward explanation of the “no fix, no fee” policy would probably inspire more confidence than lots of marketing language. I'd definitely fix the page title as well. “Home -” looks like an unfinished template and doesn't exactly give a professional impression when someone has several tabs open.

Hi and welcome.

Thank you both. Yeah, I don't do long journeys really. Maybe 3 or 4 times a month. I'll try BP/Shell as we don't have Gulf or Esso here anymore.

Hello all! Any solution to recover the e-Management option back on the latest firmware? I also have the “Reduced charging current” function ON after the update, because before doing it it took like 4.5h to fully charge the battery (220V, home socket) and now it takes 8h50m 😵. And the only way to disable/enable this function was in the e-Management screen which is unavaible now, after the update.

Ok so I decided to bleed the clutch as a slight possibility and because I was doing the brakes anyway. It seems that my clunking has gone. Fluid looked pretty s***ty when I first began to flush.

Red ring is the pivot that is often seized. Pink arrows show the movement which should be free and easy. Green arrows shows the adjuster which Alasdair mentioned.

You might be able to free it up if you take that drum off, disconnect cable from that plate then rotate it back and forth to break corrosion. Add a few drops of oil to the pivot/rivet, between the plates. Loosening the cable adjustment in the cabin by quite a lot is a big help when trying to remove drum. Retighten when work is done.

How can I adjust or repair it? What needs to be replaced?

The top end pivot will be seized on the plate of steel in the drum that the handbrake cable attaches to.