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Can anyone tell me what the two short metal pipes (with S bends in) coming out from the rear of the engine tray are please?

I suspect AI is no more sure what the Auto Box service regime is from Skoda / VW than the Main Dealers Service desk staff are.

update so is working fine no errors i swaped my 2 spoke with 3 spoke 5E3419093AG VKK

My most recent tow for long distances in the UK was a Shetland 5.4 metre outboard cruiser on a single-axle tilter - never put on a weighbridge but wet weight was almost certainly a 'bit' over the unbraked limit! Boat was used for cross-channel cruises and long-coastal around Southern England, so usually carried fuel for around 70-100 miles. Tow vehicles with that boat were 2.0L Volvo 360, then a 2.2L Vauxhall - both N.A and with lower HP/Torque than the Octavia, hardly felt the weight with either.

Bought a 2020 Octavia MK4 in October 2024. Until May 2025, I had almost no problem. Very comfortable car, nice driving experience. But with the arrival of hot weather, the infotainment started switching itself on and off even when the car was locked, and that made my battery go flat. To this day, still no definitive solution, just endless updates. So my solution was to unplug the fuse each time I leave the car for longer than a few hours. Also, problem with the volume that kept turning up; very annoying. I live in Belgium and the dealership wasn't willing to replace the unit (will be done on September 11th) and didn't take into consideration the endless videos I took of this problem, until they saw it themselves. Maybe you won't have my problems, really rooting for you, because it is a beautiful, spacious, really the car of my dreams when it came off the production line back in 2020. But my next car won't definitely be anything produced by Volkswagen given the ignorance I witnessed. Have a great day, friend

Bought the ones on the link below. Was a voucher off them last week. Att photo of the damaged wires below. Probably an easy fix but don’t have any soldering equipment, or skill! https://ebay.io/m/mo0nOh

So the OEM ones I ordered never came through off eBay so just bought some generic ones from There. About £45 for one. Very easy job to swap old one out and this one in. Did panic that I hadn’t disconnected the battery first in case it messed with the programming but think as one still connected it was fine. Now works like a charm. Inspecting the old one you can see at least 2 of the wires had snapped due to the play in that junction. In hindsight probably could have connected them again but felt they would be weak still. If you pull back the rubber grommet attaching ti the metal Body you should see if any issues on these wires

Mine have just decided to stop opening and just bleep at me instead. Any ideas what might be the issue? Were working fine yesterday..

I was in my local Skoda dealership to collect a new Lambda connectors mounting bracket as I broke a tang on my wife’s 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI while replacing the post cat probe - so I just opened my wallet and bought a new filler cap seal. The parts guy said that this seal does not move quickly - the one that I bought had been waiting to get bought for about a year!

Hi Dave and welcome, it would be interesting to hear your comparisons between the two when you have had it a while.

The links were to search the matter deeper. You already have the parts code to look in e-shops even for used parts,best of luck. 😉

From memory on my folks old mk1 estate there were captive nuts under rubber trim. Problem may be getting second hand rails. Couple breaking on ebay. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/226402866561?fits=Car+Make%3ASkoda%7CPlat_Gen%3AMK+I%7CModel%3AFabia&_skw=skoda+fabia+mk1+estate+breaking&itmmeta=01M22N4AYK6BF9TZ5QQFGWVBS2&hash=item34b6a99581:g:m5AAAOSwoktnDzfF&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAABAGfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xDjEtQFMEhSDtgDDQhh%2FR%2BKn7twjgzNQl35XX%2FAXNZZTOBwJNrhjpi%2FFI%2F1%2BpIz%2FOEUM6fRBj2OKLAzlhNOQxqJD4GhH2VnbHuz78IRFlO8Q1rmjug7JPg%2BhHFtq15ym89Yoiku%2Bzd5PnWazUpbhyK7Wqu6KbA3w4QZFw289RhSfxp2iUAD7K8nQw8N6sWvDKnBfneRr7XlMH%2B4%2Fu0yQQBviHqQGccz8Yry0vx3bY%2FsKIsPbEV7RojU0IxMb%2FZ4XQ%2FmOm4dawS3iA0XKsNqKOF2%2FBbCfPO%2Buh0SjNJubdNjItE1J4Ds2tPsIEYH%2FdPbNuY%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR8SvkdWQaA https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256686877910?_skw=skoda+fabia+mk1+estate+breaking&itmmeta=01M22N4AYKV8DN80FXPK91VZ56&hash=item3bc3baecd6:g:CgAAAOSwT5dnGQTv&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAABAGfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xDgMrnePzINnqFd0NCA2u2Ojg9jTP5EjLUrr525QMq8azqsZKU16zpOQobx2rM1%2FXtSGm%2BS9FUDtF2SaAMF34WdlZb5VBfoL1xVgrvxMcorEWj9Rr%2BU7fSOx7wUkRbTUUNTwhO7j5ErCh%2FTzmB%2F9Zl2JlfSqgf77T%2FTFaHkS7NkN%2FjmD2e0pelo2KiN2eyS2OjrpkyFd%2BNxdDraS5UxYJKqZfKSEx0x94L3Pkx2Be0ThKVdZhskE%2BVOU8rcpw1X1YbmR7WsSa9v50EToXGxsfHbb8kN%2FyT1ZPlOJH3Ud%2FX1qs%2BmaNIf2opXTTUpemFw%2BUY%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR8avkdWQaA Alasdair

The rear lights of Skoda Fabia Mk4 cars can be 'all LEDs' or be a mix of LEDS and conventional bulbs. This 2023 forum enquiry was about the latter type. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/513749-rear-light-bulbs-for-mk4-fabia/#comment-5760144 and (for right-hand-drive models) the 'mix' is as shown below, with the outer light-units having bulbs, while LEDs are used in the two number-plate light-units and (on the right side of the hatch) in the fog=light/reversing-light unit. The light-unit on the left side of the hatch is a dummy and has no LEDs in it. Left-hand-drive models will have a LED fog=light/reversing-light unit on the left side of the hatch and the light-unit on the right side of the hatch will be a dummy. with no LEDs in it. The bulb-changing guidance in the Fabia Owner's Manual is fairly good and the types of bulb involved are shown in the image below Gaining access to the bulbs should be straightforward. Pull off the black plastic cover that's next to the light-unit; remove the two T25-head retaining screws; pull the light-unit straight backwards. There's a small plastic ball (purple ringed on the image) that engages with a small plastic socket in the bodywork and a small amount of force may be needed to get the ball to disengage. The Manual suggests that the light-unit be disconnected, but that should not be necessary just to change a bulb. I found that removing the P21W (brake light) and WY16W (indicator light) bulb-holders was easy, but removing the W5W (tail light) bulb-holder was fiddly. The P21W and W5W bulbs were OSRAM-marked and I assume that the amber WY16W bulb. was also an OSRAM product.

thanks i will try it today

For basic functions they are ok but : random crashes horrible phone call quality => so AA or carplay unusable by voice as the unit does not understand anything USB wire has to be split and rewired as it is wired for the power of the MK2 no more car diagnostics so so steering wheel controls Hit or miss drive mode showing on the screen (depends on the brand => EBILAEN shows it) I tried 3 of theme before upgrading to MIB2. If you can live the flaws, they are ok but if the mentionned is important, stay away

Cheers for the update and sorry to see all the parts are failing because of it but yours was the testament that was defying everyone else’s (and giving me hope I wouldn’t have to **** around returning mine). Gone with @JR RS ’s suggestion although Delphi were out of stock so KYB variants on their way.

Before dabbing paint on rust spots, dab 'Rust Converter' on them and let it act / react.

Good news according to AI which looks on the ball for once.

If you mean the infotainment screen then yes.

I've got an android head unit, it has a dedicated wire for the job in the loom!

mine is a 2025 2.0TDI DSG estate and I pull a Mayland Mariner with alot of water trapped in the floor! You have a"slushbox" which is great for edging forwards (compared with my DSG which has to engage a clutch each time it edges forwards in traffic), but heat buildup on long inclines would be your issue. I am sure the basic "OBDeleven 3" would give you your gearbox temperature, but you'd need to test it beforehand on the same hills to know whats normal, and find out the temp thresholds for your model of gearbox. The max temp is to do with the max temp the transmission oil can handle. I think on some slushboxes the final drive (top gear) is a locked up gear and this is the one you want engaged as much as possible on the motorway to reduce hydraulic heat buildup (ie. gives it the chance to cool down after an incline). Bear in mind that the "towing prep" at the factory is the installation of the "J345 Trailer Control Module" (in the case of my car). This changes software mappings in the engine/gearbox and the car can reverse without it thinking it is about to hit a trailer...

Sorry for the late reply! but thank you for your responses Well that's good, seeing some prices online estimate £600-£1500 for a clutch replacement! I'm glad I have time to save up for when it comes around I would have hoped that the VAG specialists would have had a look at that when they inspected it, they did notice that one of the wheels wasn't tightened on properly and I've not been up to 70mph since so I should probably do that to see if its still there. Still, there is a local Kwik Fit that I could ring up and see if they would check the balancing How would I go about checking this? Aha it feels bigger in person, especially on a sunny day. I know its just a cosmetic thing but it would be nice to have it smooth additionally one of the guys I went to offered to give me the remaining bits of the paint mix and dab on the rusty bonnet spots with a cocktail stick. Mechanical fixes are always going to be a priority over it though. Something I didn't even consider!

Hi all, just purchased my first Skoda (Fabia SEL Edition) after many years of buying Toyota’s. (5 in total) Hopefully made the right call 😁

This headliths calibration can be done using Obd11 or vscd as I posted earlier. That's what I've been told and lad seems to know what he is doing, he's been coding successfully VAG cars for years. Would be helpful if someone more experienced from our forum confirm that it has been done and worked too. Cheers

thanks all for the comments... No idea if it has any factory 'towing prep' apart from stating GVM and towing values. Seems that I can get the euro style towbars that remove/rotate/hide as well as the hayman reese style with the square hitch - which is pretty much the local default, like https://haymanreese.com.au/products/towbar-to-suit-skoda-octavia-11-2013-on-03386rw Yes its a single axle, 5.5m trailer yacht. Is there a transmission temp sensor that can be monitored while driving ? or is it just a warning light that comes on when its too hot ? @Warriror193 - how heavy was your cruiser that you towed ? What did you tow it with ? Was it comfortable or stressful on the car ?