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Thank you so much. Held the power button for 30 seconds, powered off (so no radio, no touch clicks. Then came back but no screen. Garage (some 20 miles away) suggested powering the car down. Disconnected 12v battery this morning, left for six hours. Reconnected (with garage on phone as I was worried everything would need resetting). Started up, screen came on. No issues, theory is it got stuck in an update, and this resets to previous version. Don't know what happens when it next updates...

Thanks all. I have acquired a set of 6.5 x 16” Octavia wheels, which I am now renovating. I think I will be going with a set of 205/55x16” (91V) Michelin Cross Climates.

Here's the section of circuit diagram covering this connector pair. T2w is the connector pair in your blue ring. It should have a brown/red wire coming from the alternator connector (T2v/2 labelled DFM above) which changes to lilac/green at T2w/2 as it continues on towards the engine ECU. [27] indicates a continuation on another page of the diagrams. The excitation (D+) wire is blue all the way form alternator connector to the T18a/9 connection which is in the cabin, at a control unit that would be called the BCM in modern parlance. Repair both, ideally using pre-wired 'proper' waerproof connectors (part numbers are on each half, in tiny writing), or just bypass the connector pair.

There are a few newer review but this guy seems to get the inside track and I think does a proper details exam. Price start at just under 24k. Much more room in the back seats and much bigger boot. The bigger battery one ie 52 KWh not the 37 Kwh version starts at £28.3k so not exactly cheap. either 200 hp or 220 hp for the bigger battery / motor version and 0 to 60 in 7 seconds or 5.7 seconds respectively. if it had been around when I picked the R5 I would have considered. Also Auto Express's COTY awards........ AutoExpress 2026 awards...... New Car Awards 2026: introduction Coupe of the Year 2026: BMW 2 Series Car of the Year 2026: Nissan Leaf Convertible of the Year 2026: Mazda MX-5 City Car of the Year 2026: Kia Picanto Performance Car of the Year 2026: Porsche 911 Supermini of the Year 2026: Cupra Raval Affordable Electric Car of the Year 2026: Nissan Leaf Family Car of the Year 2026: Kia PV5 Passenger Premium Electric Car of the Year 2026: BMW iX3 Estate Car of the Year 2026: Skoda Superb Estate Affordable Hybrid Car of the Year 2026: MG HS Small Company Car of the Year 2026: Nissan Leaf Premium Hybrid Car of the Year 2026: Audi A5 Mid-size Company Car of the Year 2026: Mercedes CLA Pick-up of the Year 2026: Ford Ranger Large Company Car of the Year 2026: Audi A6 e-tron Electric Van of the Year 2026: Kia PV5 Cargo Small SUV of the Year 2026: Renault 4 Small Van of the Year 2026: Kia PV5 Cargo Mid-size SUV of the Year 2026: Skoda Elroq Mid-size Van of the Year 2026: Ford Transit Custom Large SUV of the Year 2026: Skoda Kodiaq Large Van of the Year 2026: Renault Master Small Premium SUV of the Year 2026: Audi Q3 Driver Power Award 2026: Tesla Model 3 Mid-size Premium SUV of the Year 2026: BMW iX3 Driver Power Manufacturer Award 2026: Mercedes Large Premium SUV of the Year 2026: Range Rover Sport Previous winners Hot Hatch of the Year 2026: Volkswagen Golf GTI

Still have this issue. Brand new latch mechanism which is where the sensor is. Have repositioned the metal bar countless times. Currently best I can get is the boor closes, pulls down to close but I have to lean onto it to push a couple of milometers to click closed but once done it will not auto open. I really can't imagine that the bar positioning is supposed to be micro millimetre accurate. Any ideas?

They go to the alternator. The blue wire is the excitation, which helps the alternator boot-up when engine is first started, the other is a signal wire from the alternator to the engine ECU, telling the latter how hard the alternator is working to satisfy electrical demands on a continuous basis. If the blue wire breaks, the battery light doesn't illuminate when ignition is switched on, and you would not get any warning if the alternator output fails. If the other one fails, some Fabia variants will display the ASR warning light after 10 minutes of driving. Cars that lack traction control/anti-slip regulation do not show any warning lights but a fault code will be present in the engine ECU if interrogated. It's odd that the blue wire doesn't appear to connect to a blue wire at the black two-wire connector. How does your battery light behave?

My VAG specialist fobbed me off when they first serviced my car, I bought at 2.5 years old with 7000 miles on the clock. I thought VAG cars were set to variable from factory, but when I was able to download the service history I found it was on fixed servicing instead, I bet they reset it on purpose to make themselves more money. At the 2nd service I went armed with the VW service schedule for Golf 8, and spoke to the service manager. In the video of the service they showed it being set to variable using ODIS to prove that it had been set correctly! I fear that a main dealer will try and fob you off as they want to make the most profit!

Thanks Gaz. I will.look for a local body shop fitter now I know it is not too specialist Thank you all so much.I have a neighbour who has rebuilt Golf's, BMWs etc and gas said he will do this now he has seen the diagrams. Thank you all so much

Update. Sure enough, 6 months and 10,000 (motorway) miles later the car is telling me it needs an oil service. This is the second dealer who has told me they've put it on variable servicing and not done so. A cynical person may think they do it on purpose 😐 Going to ditch the dealers and look for a good independent.

Thanks Binx

Best of luck keep us updated with the Kia

Hi, What is latest version for infotainment? I had updated to version: 2768, because of bug if you increase/decrese temperature and then change were air needs to blow it throw to main scree

Lower spec models tend to have smaller wheels and thicker tyre sidewalls conversely higher spec models have bigger wheels and thinner. That makes them very prone to damage from even low kerbs and ride comfort is reduced. Not sure about Sportline with DCC you would have to test drive and try the settings. One thing that does improve the ride comfort on all models is cross climate tyres.

I would guess the controls module gets hot and cuts out. Might need new control module

So, big changes! I have traded the Karoq SE-L 1.5Tsi DSG for a 7 month old Kia Sportage 1.6T GDI HEV GT-Line auto (6 speed torque convertor). A few others may remember tales of my new 2016 Sportage Edition which I hated and couldn't get rid fast enough, saying I will never buy another Kia... 🙄 fast forward 10 years...But we have now got a Kamiq also, as usual 1.5tsi SE L specced up with a few bits. My daughter had just bought exactly the same model Kia - I liked it- and in a moment of madness the Karoq has gone. I still prefer the understated look and equipment of the Skoda brand. I will miss storage and the clever useful bits. The Kia is full Hybrid and has most of the extras that I would normally specify. Pretty quick, strong mid range pull, about 1 inch wider (2 inch wider accounting for mirrors) and about 5inch longer. 19inch rims but 50 aspect ratio tyres and it does ride well, feels planted. Steering a little wooly compared to the Skodas but still OK. Seats are fine, I would prefer a lighter coloured headlining but thats just being picky. The Kia is 25% heavier than the Karoq but its supposed to be a little more frugal. Comparing the SE-L and mid spec Gt - Line when new there seems little difference in cost between the two cars. I may be wrong but it seems to me that Skoda may be loading the price of the Petrols to offset the cost of EV's. Insurance is more, no figures until my renewal in November. After 2 Karoqs spanning over 8 years I was recently thinking it is time for a change as the manufacturers warranty was coming to an end. Time will tell, for me the Karoq DSG is a hard act to follow. That said I have always had a slight preference for the smoothness and "creep" of the torque convertor autos. As the 1.5tsi and DSG mated well, it's the same with the Kia petrol/hybrid IMO. All very smooth. The 1.6T is slightly gruff when it kicks in, especially noticeable at low speeds but thats fine with me after 50 years of ICE. So it's not a complete goodbye as I will be a newbie on the Kamiq forum. I would like to take this opportunity to thank you all. This was always a vibrant forum and I have learnt much and hopefully I have passed a bit back too!

The salesman who sold us our SEL grabbed us when we went to pick it up from its 3rd service recently and tried to get us to take one of the new Sportline Editions they had in stock, at a hefty discount as part of some Skoda promotion in June. I would say the one thing that put me off was the 19" wheels and 40 profile tyres, coupled with diamond cut wheels, which we had once and I vowed never to have again. The salesman did say DCC helps the ride - I'm not sure what the modes are called but I've read of owners who only ever drive in Comfort, have tried Normal, and never dared to even try Sport.

Tiny ickle toad on the terrace last night

Have had two MK2 octavia and no major electronic problems although they arent nearly as complicated electronic wise as the newer versions. Have an elderly mother in law that struggles to get out of the octavia but find the fabia my son has is easier for her. Folks had a fabia estate mk1 for years and they really liked it. It had more boot space than the scala but I think they stopped making it a few years back 2021 ??. Maybe take a trip to the dealers and try getting in an out etc. You could also look at VW golf estate if your looking for more boot space although I think they have just stopped that as well. Alasdair

Since my car is the 2017-2020 design era, fortunately for my current interests I don't have to worry about the most recent models' enhanced security that breaks much of the capability of OBD-II consumer-grade stuff. The VCDS price is at least $199 (for USB-wired, apparently to-Windows-only?) or over $400 (for wireless, which really shouldn't be so much more expensive) more than OBDeleven's v3 device (€85). Does the VCDS software provide capability so much greater than the OBDeleven mobile/Android app to justify this cost difference? .. particularly considering that my specific use case is to record and graph live data over the course of maybe as much as a few tens of minutes? Or, because as I understand it, OBDeleven stuff is all custom (you have to use their software with their devices), is the functionality of e.g. an OBDLink MX+ (€139) at least as good as OBDeleven's (and, it has the flexibility to work with other software), so would that be a better/more-than-adequate intermediate between OBDeleven and VCDS? (I chose the OBDLink MX+ in my question above on the strength of the Carscanner app author's recommendations of that being the best option he's aware of). thanks,

Hello, I would like to know whether it is possible to use VAG-COM/VCDS to make the daytime running lights and the parking lights on a Škoda Octavia 4 illuminate in amber, similar to how they are on American cars.

I’ve had two Fabia estates and now have a 2019 Scala that I’ve had from new. Apart from one electrical meltdown a few years ago the Scala has been a good car. I’m thinking about its replacement. My wife is disabled so we have to have a car with a low easily accessible seat. Not an SUV. We also need a large boot for a wheelchair and other bits and pieces. I think that I might stick with what I know and get another Scala. But I am tempted by the Octavia and its bigger boot. Also if I decide to have an auto gearbox this time the Octavia has autohold which from the reading I’ve done makes driving easier. However, I’ve been following this forum for a long time now and I’m being put off the Octavia by the horror stories that some of you have endured with infotainment and electronics problems. Having to dismantle screens and volume sliders to get them to work! So, are there any happy Octavia owners with recent cars? Have Skoda sorted out the problems on newly built cars? I would be most grateful for your opinions. I’m getting on a bit now and this may be the last car I buy so I don’t want to make a mistake. We looked at the Corolla estate but the distance between the sill and the seat edge is larger than the Scala and my wife's disabilities made it hard for her to safely access the seat. The choice of cars that suit our needs is limited. Moderators. So sorry, I’ve put this post in the wrong forum. Could you move it to the Octavia one please. Thank you.

Hi, The car is a 2005 Skoda Fabia Mk1, 1.4 TDI, 75 hp. I found this 2-pin connector/component underneath my car while it was on a lift, but I don't know what it is. It appears to have a 2-pin electrical connector, but currently: One pin has a wire connected to it. The second pin is completely empty/broken. There is also a separate loose wire, marked with the green circle in image, which is not connected to anything. I'm wondering if this loose wire is supposed to connect to the empty second pin of the blue-marked component. Does anyone know exactly what this component is and what the two wires/pins are for? Thanks!

For a while, just in case any of the new ones decide to fail.

I put this into ChatGPT

You will keep the original coilpacks as spares, right? Seems wrong to throw away functional items.