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UPDATE: Car now started to switch itself off when driving and saying manually restart engine, bit scary to say the least. Now in with the garage for diagnosis and hopefully repair, fingers crossed.

No the assembly is damaged and I've bought a full replacement I just need to know how to to remove the remaining piece and refit the new assembly

Going on data from your previous posts, I'd suspect your batteries charge acceptance capacity is down, possibly from hard sulfation of the plates. Does your charger have a 'recondition' function ?

Hey, JustAFlabbyPanda, how have you been getting on since you fixed it? I have a 2015 2 litre Diesel Yeti. Exact same problem. Needed a new clutch kit anyway but dealer said that would solve it - and it didn't. Second mechanic saw faults in the EGR valve - slow flow or something - but in fairness to him, he said he was not sure. We replaced the EGR valve (as another mehcanic told me it was definitely the EGR valve). But I still have the same problem! Jerky on cold days. My problem is that every morning I have three to four adults with me in the car and with that weight, the car is very jerky for the first 6 or 7 minutes. I have to accelerate extremely slowly so that it doesn't jerk. YOu might let me know what exactly you did and how it's farign right now. I have 254,000km on the clock and apart from that jerkiness, it is perfect... Thanks

There are generally two variants, one is as described the other isnt. The one that seems the most common is like this, (would need to check model etc) Bosch | Euro Car Parts

Seen this a few times and is almost always the crank sensor, occasionally the cam sensor, Its like a hard diesel stall, properly bangs but doesn't stop, the occasional stall in traffic. For what its worth I did get one random crank code show up but wasn't permenant and then it vanished. For what they cost I would start there for this condition.

Could be the locking sequence is set like that. If its like my display screen (not maxidot) I think you require VCDS/OBD11 to change it. It could also be a failing microswitch in drivers door so the car doesnt realise its been unlocked. Has it always been like that or has it happend recently. Alasdair

Sounds like the small spring in the actuator part has escaped. I think you could replace this with the spring from a pen, it fits in a recess in the bottom of the part if I remember rightly. The main button and big spring should push into the round hole and latch in. Looks like there might be something stuck in there (the broken off end of the button?) that you'll need to extract first.

and clutch will last longer..

Yesterday i took delivery of my MK4.5 Octavia vRS and this was one of the first things i`ve checked. It seems that starting with the MK4, Skoda removed the option of changing the Sensitivity. Also confirmed by a friend which has a MK2 Kodiaq. Sorry about the misinformation in my previous message. @Mods: can you strikethrough/delete point #2 from my previous message? i cannot edit it

I'm looking for advice from anyone who has experienced a similar issue on a Mk3 Superb or another VAG vehicle. My car is a 2020 Skoda Superb 2.0 TDI 190PS, and ever since I bought it two years ago I have been bothered by a noticeable buzzing/humming noise that is clearly audible inside the cabin. After investigating the source, the noise appears to come from the N75 boost control solenoid located at the rear of the engine bay near the bulkhead. The sound also goes away if I remove this part from the backets The car has already been inspected by a workshop. They agreed that the noise was coming from the N75 valve and replaced the valve, but the replacement made absolutely no difference. The buzzing remained exactly the same. They also tried to make som "alternative" fixings for it on the original bracket, but this actually made the sound worse..... Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated, as the sound is loud enough to be genuinely annoying inside the cabin. And is driving me crazy.. I actually prefer to use my old car which I have not sold because the sound is so annoying... Thanks in advance!

Is it possible to code this out, I absolutely hate it, or is there an easy way to switch it off?

Genuine reasons indeed ... sorry to drop a nice car, but oh well! Enjoy the new ride!

Thanks Dave Definitely will check the top of the engine and i will ask theMK3 Forum as well, might check any electrical issues as my work does have a tester which is possible

Yep. Charger says full after about 30-40 mins

On the other RoW 26.06 using the proforma Dugeem and serdar_18fr from the Cupra board of country substition have extended the list to this: Australia -> https://download.updateportal.skoda-auto.com/maps/OI_P177_AUS_202612_Offline_Update.zip Asia -> https://download.updateportal.skoda-auto.com/maps/OI_P177_ASIA_202612_Offline_Update.zip Chile -> https://download.updateportal.skoda-auto.com/maps/OI_P177_CHILE_202612_Offline_Update.zip India -> https://download.updateportal.skoda-auto.com/maps/OI_P177_INDIA_202612_Offline_Update.zip Israel -> https://download.updateportal.skoda-auto.com/maps/OI_P177_ISR_202612_Offline_Update.zip North Africa -> https://download.updateportal.skoda-auto.com/maps/OI_P177_NA_202612_Offline_Update.zip South America & Mexico -> https://download.updateportal.skoda-auto.com/maps/OI_P177_MRM4_SAM_202612_Offline_Update.zip Türkiye -> https://download.updateportal.skoda-auto.com/maps/OI_P177_TUR_202612_Offline_Update.zip But no joy with # Gulf Region # South Africa 1.5 Gb The letter trick doesn't work for them. I'm not saying those in the list are coreect or final... for those in the areas to check.

Ok thank you that explains it, only seems to happen on the longer downhill sections.

I did the same with my old shed. The wife's brother-in-law drove a Yeti and now a Scala but every opportunity he offers to drive the Roomster. Even he says I would be mad to sell it.

Yes, that's normal for standard cruise - there's not a lot of engine braking, so gravity will tend to take over on longer down-slopes.

For context, has this battery ever been charged from external source?

2018, prefacelift

I certainly don't regret it......as shown in my previous comment. I've test drove both the 280 and 220, back then, before I chose the 220.

I forgot to quote you in my previous post, so here it is again. Hi Simon, do you have a wiring diagram that you followed to connect the facelift headlights for a pre facelift citigo ? I’m doing the same mod and I’m struggling a bit. I’ve located the pins for the main bulbs, but got lost with the leds and adjustment’s motor. I already got the female connectors

Wat Model Year is ur Superb? I can give u the 4B parameter file.

Hi Simon, do you have a wiring diagram that you followed to connect the facelift headlights for a pre facelift citigo ? I’m doing the same mod and I’m struggling a bit. I’ve located the pins for the main bulbs, but got lost with the leds and adjustment’s motor. I already got the female connectors