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Sure it is. Pls send me VIN in PM so I can check your car configuration and let you know your options.

Hey all! Tried to look for an answer here but either am too bad with search or there was not a topic with this. Getting irritated by not having bluetooth and not to charge phone while driving and listening to music. Car is 2011. Current situation is with the superb radio that I want bluetooth to it - now it operates with aux - and been wondering if it can be ”upgraded” by buying a satnav unit with bluetooth in it. Is it worth it?

After 7 years of Octavia VRS DSGs I made a foolish mistake in February and switched to a Golf mk8 1.5 manual. I've tried to adapt to it but ultimately can't stand the gearbox and having just had two weeks back in an auto hire car on holiday am looking to get back into a DSG and with a bigger boot. I saw a lovely Karoq Sportline in Nardo Grey whilst I was away and am currently thinking along those lines. I'd be looking at a used car, likely 2022/23. I will of course have a good read through here, but if you have any standout must haves or avoids to call out, please do so. I want a bigger boot than the Golf (521L vs 381L ✅), DSG and the ability to add a towbar bike mount - the Octavia's were a bit fussy on this, is the towbar an easy retrofit on the Karoq if need be? Pan roofs look nice, but I seem to remember reports of other VAG ones squeaking, creaking and leaking? The Golf's tech is punching above it's weight, it regularly warns me of imaginary lane creep and collisions, plus the whole system crashes from time to time, needing a restart to clear - My Octavia's were much better, any points of note with the Karoq? As I say, I will have a good look around on here, but would really appreciate early warning of any showstoppers, highlights or other thoughts.

OK I’ve had my Amundsen update to CarPlay If I update the unit to rectify the clock problem will I lose CarPlay? CarPlay wasn’t added by Skoda

Your sticker should look like this. G51 is the suspension set up on mine if you read the numbers.

@NDW89 mine had that and still has vaccum the same way as you describe, my problem was that it made a whistling noise which dissapeared when i oppened oil filler cap. Also in cold weather i had a lot of white smoke from the exhaust which reduced substantialy after pcv change. UPDATE: Problem solved by changing haldex pump and clutch assembly. All was done under warranty. Test for this was to remove the haldex fuse from under steering wheel and do a test drive, which i have found on other forum. My haldex pump filter inside was filled with debris (as factory procedure does not include cleaning of the filter located on the pump, that caused pump motor to burn out and draw a big ammount of current but not enough to burn out a fuse. My haldex clutch plates were severely deformed and were binding even when the fuse was removed creating physical resistance which triced tcu and ecu. Reccomendation on various internet pages say that this pump filter should be cleaned every haldex service, to ensure that it does not end up the way my did. Very happy with the car now, such a shame it took so long (8 months) to sort out, thank you everybody!

I believe there are two different styles of sensor around this time, one with an output that is at a low voltage when measured with a meter, the other with an output that sits high as measured with a multimeter. You may have the wrong type. The latter, later type is the LIN-based one, I think, but would need your VIN to research which type your car should have. See G65 sensor no signal - Skoda Octavia Mk3 (2013 - 2020) - BRISKODA I'll message you to ask for the VIN. Is there no letter suffix after the core 1K0907659 part number you mentioned.? Those suffix letters can identify/disambiguate completely incompatible versions.

Many thanks. Thats what i have ordered.

That is exactly how my provblems started. You can do the reset but if returns have a read here on what eventually fixed mine Multi media screen not working and sun roof problems - Skoda Superb Mk4 (2023 > ) - BRISKODA

Good thinking... On the rear of my Fabia's dipstick's yellow plastic handle is a QR code and the Part Number 05C115611H Searching online using that Part Number retrieves plenty of adverts for dipsticks for recent VW Group cars (not just Skoda Fabia Mk4s) that have the 1.0litre TSI motor. I've looked at a few adverts that carry photos, but, although they all resemble my Fabia's dipstick (yellow angled handle, black flat steel 'blade' and with a bent section that plainly relates to oil-level measurement) I can't get sufficient resolution on that section to confirm if any of the advertised dipsticks lack the 'dotted' marking. As it's fairly easy to do, it would be worth @fabiamk4man checking the Part Number on his car's dipstick.

The air quality sensor (1K0907659) appears to have failed on our 2013 Yeti. In VCDS it is throwing the DTC 9481988 - Air Quality Sensor B10AF 04 [008] - Internal System Fault The price of a replacement OEM part was £140 plus the hassle of a 1 hour round trip to collect it from the dealer. So given the price of £20 for a Chinese version, I have tried that. However it is giving me a different fault 9479189 - Signal Line for Air Quality Sensor B10A4 15 [008] - Open or Short to Plus Upon testing this Chinese part on a bench using a PSU set to 12V 0.1A, with pin 1 (12V), pin 2 GND, then I'm seeing 10.5V on pin 3 for a few seconds and then it drops to 9.5V for the remaining time. It is drawing 45mA and then 0mA respectively. I think it is simply a fault part but curious to know how others have got on with the Chinese part? Has anybody got voltage & current values for a known good sensor? The old failed sensor I have has 0.5V on pin 3 and is drawing about 10mA constantly.

Im trying to unlock the messaging function!

Do the fans come on when overheating light is on. If not just wondering if its the prongs in expansion vessel. I used to get the warning on my old mk2. I scraped pins and it was fine after that. Think its the same warning for low coolant and overheating on the MK2 but not sure re mk3 Alasdair

I have an ongoing issue - the engine overheating warning light come on when the engine heats up at start up. It also sometime comes on - when it is a hot day, the air-con is on and the car is being pushed hard. At no time does the engine exceed 90 degrees which is the normal operating temperature. It has had the overheat sensors replaced, but it still complains. Has anyone else come across this and have a fix or suggestion?

Interesting...perhaps it's the difference between using ODIS and OBD11? Is ODIS changing something else?

According to Jurid on autodoc, both the hatchback and estate versions of the Superb MK2 2.0TDI 140HP 4x4 have 282x12mm rear brake discs (build code 1KJ). These have TRW rear brake calipers.

@DerekU is there a part number anywhere on it?

The UK takes so long to get work operational I despair. We are seeing, and theun governnents seems to realise, mych more gets done by individuals ie they buy their solar and batteries rather than uk infrastructure which just drags on an on. What is incredible is the hundreds of thousands, becoming millions, of solar abd battery are rivalling the infrastructure projects ie GWs of energy production and tens of GWh of energy storage. Australia had shown tge way on thus by transforming from almost total Grid dependency to home energy production and storage being very significant in a normal daily cycle.

Think that one is Microsoft getting up to its old tricks. Edge is supposed to seamlessly open them up or save the file but leaves it with that funny file name. That has been rambling on and off for atleast three years on a web search. You just put that .7z extension on it after it appears to finish. I hadn't come across it before until the muttering began. Chrome and Firefox not an issue.

There is elements of that. My son just wants to drive and have the car systems tell him where he can go to charge up a bit if he gets low. The Google, or Tesla software makes that much easier telling the driver how busy the location is ie number of available bays and what the price is which can be half as much again even for the same public charging company. Reading Services has a lot of chargers as does Crawley so should not be too difficult.

Hi, don’t worry, it looks like it’s an issue with your Android system… nothing to worry about. By the way, since they replaced my 5F module, I haven’t had any problems with audio dropouts. Best regards.

@Lutz_91 damn … I’m always late to the party … I’d does look sweet @Binx1310 yep I’ve seen the stick on ones but would prefer to have subtle changes that could be “factory options “ so sometime I may get round to buying both types and seeing if I can cobble the L&K lens onto the regular puddle lights

sold to webuyanycar. That’s it. Thank you!

One of the downsides to going electric for many, including some of those who can home charge, is that it seems to be a requirement with some existing EV owners/drivers seem to make any long-distance trip into a round of almost military strategic planning as regards to charging stops, etc.

I spent a few days on this and did brakes (clean and lube and paint) and also under wheel arches. P40 isopon worked a treat. I only started this to sort a few rust spots due to stone chips which were superficial. Digging around lead to the discovery of rust. When you see bubbling it is too late. The cavity was sound. I've sprayed s50 bolt hamber wax and used the clear wax stuff under wheel arches. The photos show the epoxy spray 2k after chiselling off old paint and then sanding to leave the factory rust proofing, the paint was lose after a sandpaper rub down. Had stone guard grey and then hycote topcoat diamond silver then clear coat. No adverse reactions. The stone guard spray I didn't rate, seems consistency of a primer. The underbody bungs I replaced with aftermarket. There are several sizes 30mm hole along sill x4 each side, but some near exhaust etc. iñ wheel arch the hole is 40mm, see new bungs in photo.