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Unfortunately I don’t have an active subscription right now.. I though about it but I wasn’t sure it will work.

what should this cost me?

UPDATE - CASE SOLVED. Hi everyone, I'd like to update you guys on the case. I just came back from my Europe trip. While being in Poland I got in touch with a guy who was familiar with this issues and already cracked the case. Using ODIS he turned "predictive route data" off in 4B module and after reseting few things(I'm not familiar with ODIS) headlights on motorway are acting exactly as on A or B road... I'm still not going to use full beam on busy motorway but when driving on motorway with low traffic it's actually working well. I cancelled my appointment with Skoda because obviously my modification in system would cause them to charge me for diagnostic and knowing they approach it was not certain that I would get anywhere with this case. So there is a solution but ODIS is the best option, apparently its possible with VCDS but its more complicated. Apart from couple of people, no one really responded to my post which is a bit disappointing, but I just wanted you to know that there is a solution! Many thanks 👍

Have had loads of cars with splashguards missing and passed MOT. Only once failed as it was loose but MOT guy kindly pulled it off and passed it. The bolts on my sons MK1 fabia were remarkably good though that was on front and small allen type. I soaked in penetrating oil for a few days. On the rear It may be the hub bolts that you are seeing? From memory I think you have to remove hub to replace splash guards on rear as its sandwichd between Alasdair

Hi all, New to forum but I have run into an issue trying to do good deed for bonus daughter. She has a Fabia Mk1 2004 and was having some issues with idling fuel usage. I thought an easy check would be cleaning the throttle body. It seemed easiest to remove it for cleaning which I did and from what I originally found online as long as gentle you could open the valve manually for cleaning, in true my normal operating form after that when I had problems I found all the info not to manually open as it causes problems. When I had it cleaned up and put it back on immediately the EPC light came on and it went into limp mode and won't come out. I have tried various ways to reset it (battery disconnect, key on for 30 seconds, etc) but nothing is making a difference. After a battery disconnect it goes into that EPC mode immediately. When the key is first turned on the valve flutters then does nothing. Now an interesting thing is even before I cleaned it, turning the key on and pressing the accelerator pedal did nothing as far as opening the valve whereas I see information it should open? Anyway, I am trying to figure out best option now as the car is inoperable and she returns tomorrow. :-( I have tried checking the pins on the throttle body with a multimeter but not sure I am following right pattern but the results there did not seem to give promising feedback. I also am not finding any of these available except for one about 1.5 hours away which might be my next step if nobody has anything to try. Thank you in advance for any help. DDW

I shouldn’t need to tell them how the car works, just what it is doing. After 2 1/2 years I have given up, next car will be from a different company.

Hi all When I rotate the front wheel, I can hear a sound similar to the one in the link. I have already changed the dual-mass flywheel and checked all the engine mountings. The backbone (lower engine mounting) has been changed. I would like to find out what is causing this sound. The car has done 200,000 km. I bought this car when it had done 100,000 km and the sound was already present, but not so loud. I am assuming it is the differential or transfer box. Unfortunately, I don't know how to diagnose whether it is the differential or the transfer box. When I twist the cardan shaft for the rear wheels, the sound is not as loud as when I twist the front wheel. Any ideas about this issue? WBR Primoz

Has anyone come across a good source of the Paint Protective Film (PPF) for the rear wheel arches please? Following some minor damage I now need to replace one side. Thanks

If theres a wobble on disc check hub face for any dirt corosion first. Doesnt take much to throw the disc out. Could be a bad disc but as its heated up before disc/caliper change and no handbrake cable I reckon its the hub thats maybe out of alignment or bearing is shot. Used to have similar problems on an old volvo 940. I got a dial guage to check trueness of hubs/discs and it was out slightly on rear. From memory it was after my folks spun car in snow and hit kerb. Alasdair

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Hello, the splash guards at my rear brake disks are badly corroded and will be, what I think would be called a "MOT-failure" in the UK next time it is checked. When replacing them, how much trouble should I reasonably expect? From memory when I replaced the disks some time ago, the splash guards seem to be hold in place by some pretty substantial hex-head bolts which I thought was surprising. My questions are: Do the bolts tend to break when trying to undo them? What is the safest method to get them out in one piece (e.g. impact gun or wrench)? Do these bolts hold something more than the splash guards, meaning how much of a disaster is it if I mess up one and cant get the remains out? Thank you very much in advance 🙂

I've been looking at the Epiq for a while now. It could be the replacement for my wife's current '22plate 64kWh Kona EV. I need to test drive one because the main reason we want to change is the Kona's ride which is so bouncy & jiggly. The Kona's short wheel base & stiff springs / shocks don't help it at all. Fine on smooth roads but we don't have many of them in the UK. The Epiq is about the same length but with a much bigger boot & a slightly smaller battery / range. We currently are getting 4.7miles/kWh out of the Kona (no heat pump) which is is going to be hard to beat. None of our local dealers has an Epiq in their showrooms yet. However, the order books are open if you want to buy one? Why would someone order a car without seeing one in the flesh or taking it for a test drive? Our next car could be our first ever lease car as well.

A note on browsers an VW 7z compressed file. A few Seat people have been having problems with Edge. The workaround is to do the download and when it's finished... it never appears as finished just waiting to open, you then rename the extension to 7z than you can open it. Muttering had appeared with the mib2 standard files. Then again with this file. Got to the bottom it now. On browsers: Firefox - no issue Chrome - no issue Edge - you need to edit the extention to 7z when it stops downloading and just sits there

Ha yeah. I knocked off the caked on mud in the back of the bumper but that was about it. I’ve never massively been in to the cleaning part of car ownership. Would rather pay someone else to do it. But if there’s something to take apart and put back together I’m there!

I have these and really like them. Be warned. AliExpress is an addictive drug!

If they don’t come up with the second key, speak to the dealer principal to see if they will supply one foc. If not buy one. The car is not faulty if otherwise it is ok. You need to chase them rather than be dismayed when they haven’t contacted you.

it would have taken me ages to do a job like this,, as soon as id have got the rear bumper off id have been side tracked into cleaning all the hidden white-ish panels ,,, i get easily distra,,, ooh squirrel !!!!

Correct. Almost like a kicking motion rather than a waving motion, in the centre of the rear

UK-Spain-Switzerland-France-Belgium-UK 3000km or a little more. Over ten days. Only gripe was the oil getting burned in a 6 hour traffic jam on the M25 on the way out. Aside from that no more oil burned. Fugg me those French tolls, ouch! Seeing as I also have a new license, I've actually done more miles on foreign roads than UK. Back to the real world, nice. EDIT: it's nagging me to change the oil now. Which is fair.

So I've had the car four weeks now. Replaced the leather sides of the DSG knob as they were worn with some Ali Express specials. Sorry no photos but they fitted fine. Also replaced the door puddle lights with some LED units, bit chavy but hey-ho. Had to take the passenger door card off as someone had previously been there before and the cable was way too short. Sorted now though.

Thanks @Alasdair1 . That fits the temperature side well — softer plastic when it's hot changing how it resonates makes sense. I had a look underneath as far as I could reach and didn't find anything obviously loose or with missing fixings, but I can't get a proper look without lifting the car, so I've asked the dealer to check the undertray and arch liners on a ramp. Worth noting mine measures a fixed 129 Hz that doesn't shift with speed — only the loudness changes. A loose liner catching the airflow would usually shift in pitch as speed rises, so I'm not sure a flapping panel alone explains a fixed tone, but a loose panel opening a gap that then resonates a cavity would fit. Either way it's on my list for the dealer to check. Cheers.

Thanks, @KinderBean that's helpful. Two things I want to pin down rather than assume: You mentioned the flaps might be behind the undertray — good point, I may well have them and just couldn't see them from the front. I'll confirm via VIN/PR codes. On the tow bar upgrading the cooling — I've read the same, but I'm not certain it's true for this exact model, so I'll verify it through the dealer rather than take it as given. Here's why it might matter: I do have the factory swing-out tow bar. Do you have one? If you don't have the tow bar (and therefore possibly no cooling upgrade) and you have no drone, while I have the tow bar and do have the drone — that could be the difference between our otherwise similar cars. If a few affected owners all turn out to have the factory tow bar, that's a very specific thing to point Škoda at.

Well, if it's anything like the Cybertruck, that will be a no, then. First, it is 8 years since it was first introduced and supposed to be the best thing since sliced bread. In that time, mainstream European truck manufacturers have theirs out, and many are being used in Europe. Secondly, unlike Tesla cars, which were the first to do BEVs, and hence have a strong following in most places of the world, they are very late to the HGV market and hence have very stiff competition on their hands if, and currently it is a big if, they will be able to meet the regulatory demands of the home market.

@andrehj Hi, I've took the car to a different garage this time to try and get things sorted. They only change things in pairs. The garage thats fit the wrong springs and or rear arms was in October and November 2024. Local garages now won't let customers supply their own parts but then some garages are ordering the wrong parts. The springs were from TMS motorspares but I was told they have to be tested to the same compression strength as OEM for like for like physical dimensions. The current garage has ordered two new coil springs from Europarts but they are the exact same length around 370mm At this moment no one can tell me what colour code was originally on the car. TMS only list 2 springs for this model and have only one of the 2 in stock. The pair they have in stock are different to the ones thats currently on my car that they've previousy supplied and are too short. The replacements are the same length. @Carlston I've signed up to the skoda parts link you've sent but need to figure it out better as it only allows one free garage search. Both rear arms were changed in November 2024. The coil springs were changed in October and then November 2024. The cars far too low so the has to be an issue with the springs, but how would that explain the underside of the chassis and rear arms catching on speed bumps? Does this mean springs and arms are wrong? I'll show this thread to the current garage in the morning.

Maybe not in the true spirit of this thread, but it was canny. On our way up to RHS Wisley today on the M23, here's Mrs Gaz in her flash red Polo GTI, overtaking a silver Polo GTI - both GY65 reg. no.'s: Near relatives, if not siblings 😁 G