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I'll let you know when I get the car back from the garage, but it seems not.

I've recently had a water pump & timing belt change. Had to do a trip about 400 miles -- only just been able to check the workmanship! They broke the old sensor (which they'd told me about) -- nothing a bit of araldite couldn't fix, but -- had to have a new one. Problem is they seem to have fitted a new tube as well, which I don't think is "up to spec". It's thin rubber, very flexible, so much so that it's folded into a 90 degree bend (which probably still transmits the pressure, but isn't ideal) and also split open at the connector -- which probably doesn't transmit the pressure. In the light of the risk of melting when it's not air-tight -- I'll not be driving it like this! Useful to know only one connection is normal -- I was definitely sceptical about seeing two connectors on the new sensor. (photo to follow ...)

Just be careful with the subframe alignment kit. Everything is designed to move a little bit, so that in a low-speed smash, a lot of the important stuff is protected. By sticking in those collars, you’re reducing any flex or wiggle room that oval holes and the like introduce, transferring the full energy of an accident to the subframe and more critical components. You’ll also find that, unless the car is brand new and has never been into a pothole, you will need the adjustment to get the car aligned! My car has never been in any sort of incident beyond a wheel kerbing, but without replacing half the steering and suspension system, it wouldn’t align properly were the subframe to be locked in place.

You can get stick on battery projector ones with this logo, or Skoda / Superb logo ones that fit in the standard light fitting. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005553670345.html? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005009118625645.html

Sounds like they’ve fiddled with all your aftermarket bits which is a bit naughty. Does the camera and the usb now work?

Yes, they were replaced one-for-one. They aren't available anymore. Back then, there was a group buy in Germany for this type of logo.

Yeah it still sticks to the road as well as it ever has, just the roll in the body from side to side that seems to be spoiling it.

I will already add the fact I have a "yellow" DRL which i need to fix and its not related to the ballast as I have replaced them already!

So, I find myself in a place where a car I bought was not going to be a project car but there are things that I want to do that make it a bit like a project car. I already have a thread on my engine woes, now they seem to be fixed I will have some pennies to spend on my "not a project" project car. There are some things that I have already done that I have not specifically documented, but I enjoy keeping track of things I do to cars, so here I am. I do most of my own work with help from a friend in his "shed". Already done things are, Head Gasket - What a nightmare Charge air cooler EGR Cooler All associated HG seals and gaskets New Turbo Lowered on Eibach Sportsline Springs Solid Dogbone insert Other engine mounts replaced with new Wheels changed - This was a bit of a random one, the Audi wheels came up in mint condition and were a lot cheaper than getting mine refurbed. Wheels spacers added Rear Windows Tinted Had the bootlid and bumper repaired and repainted as someone had fitted a number plate with wood screws and the bumper had a couple of knocks Fitted the larger and newer headunit Bought the cover to block off the intake to get more air into the air box Removed the snow filter in the airbox cut out the additional holes on the intake pipe to give more air into the airbox. Added a Reiger splitter that I got for £15! Cambelt, water pump and aux belt all replaced Oil pump belt replaced DSG gearbox serviced New discs and pads all round Car is also stage 1 and has had a DSG remaps as well So whats in plan, well as this isnt a project not much.... Suspension refresh - all bushes and links will be replaced / upgraded and new shocks. Chassis stiffening parts High flow filter Turbo baffle replacement TIP replacement Wheel studs Need to detail it at some point been a bit lazy with it as the engines been broken. Sure I will add more to the not a project list as I get on with it!

Car is finally sorted, all new parts fitted now, new centre arm rest, new rear vents, new a pillar covers. Only thing they have broken is the USB in the centre rest, completely removed the wires from the step down unit! Then the unit nor the cig USB unit was working but found that the fuse wasn't there!! Also the wiring and harness for rear camera has been put elsewhere, I think they have had fun haha

Decoding Volkswagen Coolant Families: From G12 to G13Volkswagen has evolved its coolants over the decades. Here’s the lineup every owner needs to know. Classic and Reliable: G12 CoolantThe original long-life red/pink coolant (OAT technology). Nitrate-free, phosphate-free, and silicate-free, G12 was used by the auto manufacturer from the late ’90s to mid-2000s. G12 (original red) G12+ (improved red/pink) G12++ (even longer life) G12 EVO (latest violet-ready evolution) Ideal for the MK4 Golf, the Beetle, and the early Passat. The Modern Eco-Warrior: G13 CoolantIntroduced around 2008, G13 swaps some glycol for glycerin (a veggie-derived byproduct), making it more environmentally friendly while still delivering 150,000-mile protection. Violet or purple color Fully compatible when mixing with G12+, G12++, or G12 EVO Slightly different corrosion package, even better for newer aluminum blocks Recommended for every Volkswagen from model year 2008 onward (Atlas, Tiguan, newer Golf/Jetta, etc.). The Universal Champions: G12+, G12++, and G12 EVOThese are the “safe for almost anything” options. Silicate-free, backward-compatible with old G11/G12, and forward-compatible with G13. Use them to top off almost any Volkswagen vehicle without drama. Built to add long-term rust, frost, and overheating protection. REAL-WORLD EXAMPLE: A correctly matched G12++ or G13 mix prevents radiator rust, resists freeze damage in winter, and helps the cooling system shed excess heat. Source/Copyright: Volkswagen USA That Bright Coolant Warning Light? Don’t Ignore It!When the red thermometer or “coolant low” icon lights up on your dashboard, pull over safely, shut off the engine, and let it cool for at least 30 minutes before popping the hood. Hot, pressurised coolant can cause severe burns. Mixing Coolants and Smart Upgrade TipsYes, G13 plays nicely with G12+, G12++, and G12 EVO in a pinch, but always top off with the exact specification for best results. The following color guide is helpful but isn’t foolproof: G11 – blue (ancient, avoid) G12/G12+ – red or pink G12++/G13 – violet/purple Never gamble with off-brand “fits all” coolants; they often contain silicates or phosphates that attack Volkswagen seals and sensors. Stick to genuine Volkswagen G13, G12++, or G12 EVO.

I have these on my list for my "not a project" car after I have done the bushes and ARBs, had similar on other cars and do seem, to work well.

RacingLine also have some upgrade parts if you still want more stiffness (ooo, err) after doing the 'bushes': https://www.racingline.com/mqb-underbody-brace https://www.racingline.com/mqb-subframe-brace

I don't suppose anyone knows the fuse location/number for the rear cig lighter? Car back from Skoda today with only thing not working or being resolved is my rear USB unit which is wired into the Cig lighter, also the USB in the arm isn't working which takes a feed from this. I have found this when looking at the wires, so will explain one thing, shocking that a main dealer does this! But wanting to prove a fuse is the issue due to them doing this, before I start to have a go at them

This update is not about progress on my Caddy, but instead is about an event I attended. I was not there in the Caddy so the relevance to this thread may seem tenuous, but please bear with me. Earlier this month I attended the Retro-Rides Gathering at Prescott Hillclimb. I was there in my SEAT Ibiza, and was lucky enough to be able to take it up the hill. Wandering around the retro parking I saw these: I would have really liked to have spoken to the owner of this one. The wheels appear to be the same Renault 16” steels which I have on my Caddy, and the paint colour is remarkably similar. I love the facelift front end too. This last one is not my photo, so if the person who took it recognises it and objects then please get in touch and I will remove it. The point I wanted to make is that when I bought my Caddy these Felicia-based pick-ups were mostly unloved, and you never saw them at events. This is clearly changing. There are now increasing numbers of Felica and mk2 Caddy pick-ups which have obviously had money and effort spent on them. I think this is great news, and if anyone reading this is struggling for motivation on their own project, I hope this helps.

Autodoc lists at least three different Stabilus Tailgate Struts for the Superb MK3...as shown below. When purchasing aftermarket parts, it's best to search using the OEM part number...rather than simply relying on a description. Stabilus 301171 Tailgate Strut (Superb MK3 Hatchback without rear wiper) Extension Force 660N Length 546mm Stroke 169mm https://www.autodoc.co.uk/stabilus/9485272 Stabilus 301410 Tailgate Strut (Superb MK3 Hatchback with rear wiper) Extention Force 700N Length 546mm Stroke 169mm https://www.autodoc.co.uk/stabilus/9487445 Stabilus 299976 Tailgate Strut (Superb MK3 Estate) Extension Force 600N Length 598mm Stroke 191mm https://www.autodoc.co.uk/stabilus/9445724

There are a couple of results from the latest trip to the body shop which I neglected to draw attention to in the last update, one of which was a conscious choice while the other was unexpected. I have never liked how the ‘hockey stick’ trims extend across the B-pillar. When I bought this Caddy these trims had been unceremoniously curtailed at their front ends, which caused some problems with water ingress to the load area, but was one of the previous owner’s visual mods which I did not hate. Replacing these trims was an opportunity to do a better job along the same lines, and I had Martlet Autos cut and chamfer the front edges to follow the line of the cab back. In my opinion it looks like they are supposed to be like that, which is a positive sign. The unintended outcome from the work to the rear spring top seats is that the rear ride height is now much higher. I need to get the back end up in the air again to make sure that the springs are seated correctly (there are no untoward noises to suggest otherwise), and if they are then I need to look again at lowering springs. I still have the springs I bought when I rebuilt the rear suspension, so it will be a little effort no cost job to swap them over.

They are great cars and a refresh will make a massive difference, just tightens everything back up, they handle really well generally and I cannot say mine feels anything like yours, mine feels really well connected and predictable and as I say my bushes are not in fantastic condition!

Cheers, I love the car and it's in near mint condition but the handling is making me want to start looking for something else. I'll have a look at getting these bits changed first. Thanks again.

Got Bridgestone tyres on front and the ones on the back are 4 year old Cooper tyres, but do have about 80% tread. They have got some cracking to the outer edges though. I noticed the change to the handling before I changed the tyres, but I think you are right that it won't be helping matters. Cheers for the advice, I suppose it's getting to the age where these things need doing now, despite the mileage.

Question for those who have standard ambient lights (it doesn't matter if 10 or 30 variations): do Your footwells change the color too? In my car, which has ambient light standard (it's a 1.5 Style, equivalent to a SEL), according to the infotainemnt screen footwells change color BUT in reality they keep on staying white! Instead, if anybody replaced with those RGB, can please tell me the part numbers and if I need other parts?

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A couple of days ago, I had a new update for the Shop application. This new update seems to have changed the version number and since then I've not had any new requests for "application updates" so far.... The new shop application version is: 3.15.1-336.321 Previously I had the update repeatedly for: 3.15.1-334.320 Fingers crossed this is the update that fixes this issue.... Gabbo

Good shout thanks Seat Ateca spec