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A significant disadvantage of autodoc and its other companies masquerading as UK based with .co.uk addresses. Fine when the right parts are offered and delivered, PITA when not. Part number is very likely to be printed on your current struts. Use that - exactly, suffixes and all - to attempt to find aftermarket matches, autodoc may also be wrong about non-availability.

The 5F module has multiple data sets with different addresses and functions. These are stored in the EEPROM.

Hi, im struggling to find correct part number As my skoda is same a yours. Mines a 2014 Superb L and K

I'm a newbie Superb owner and felt my tailgate struts are not as efficient as they might be. Having entered Make, Model and Engine size as well as registration into both the AUTODOC site and app, I was presented with a long list of struts, all of which, I was informed, were suitable for the car. (You can see where this is going!). Ordered 2 x Stabilus 301171's which, on arrival, clearly did NOT fit. Challenged Autodoc who said I should have checked the VIN first with them by email - there is no guidance evident to do this and why would you, given the info they had and their site's confirmation of suitability. The upshot is that they reject any responsibility, offering to refund £44 cost but NOT my £9 postage. In addition I am required to spend £25 to return the items to Germany. When I gave them the VIN they advised they don't stock suitable struts as they are factory issue only - so why list umpteen struts as suitable? You'll see from the attached that my VIN details are actually held on the site in the second image and still the recommendations stand. My post is made purely as a warning if you are looking for Superb III struts on this site, do NOT take anything at face value. Highly UN-recommended. Apologies if this is in the wrong section or should not even be raised - I'll understand if Admin removes.

what I read was exactly three mins so maybe critical and a low battery can cause all manner of spurious faults. Glad its back to normal for now and hope it stays that way. Worth scanning it anyway to see if theres any underlying problem. Alasdair

Hi again, Okay, I left it on charger for the day and then disconnected battery and put the throttle body back in place. I then connected battery and did the 3 min with key on and it went through a bit more movement than it was last night. I then turned key back off and back on then started it. EPC light still on but limp mode gone. Drove it around a bit and EPC light stayed on. Got back to house shut it off and started it again and EPC light went off… no idea but seems to be fine. I still have the cord coming so will try and see if it gives any info when it comes but maybe a slightly low battery was causing issues? No idea what else it could have been. Thanks for the responses, always good to have someone responding when fighting through these things. Thanks, DDW

Hi all can anyone identify these wheels may not be Skoda but has VRS centre caps. They are on a 2016 Superb Estate.

Got bored tidying the shed so went up floors castle this afternoon. Take a macro lens but wind was gusty so not much luck.

Just looked at a 2023 registered Kodiaq sportline, was trying to configure the dashboard to have rev counter to left and speedo dial to the right ...all traditional as it were fillowing test drive. Couldn't manage it, all i could have was largish central speedo with vaious ancillaries to left and right, is there more than one style of Electronic/virtual dash available as some photos clearly show it as possible? Apologies if this has been raised/answered before. Await a response, cheers.

If the car is too low, the springs are not stiff or long enough. That is a very clear explanation for the car hitting the end stops on speed bumps. You have a very common engine (2.0 TDI with DSG), so finding out the correct color code for your springs should be easy. Also, I do not understand your problem with skoda-parts.com. Simply make an account and add your car. If you have two Skoda's, make two accounts (with two different e-mail addresses). And regarding spring length: I already explained to you before that just measuring the free spring length is useless. You also have to compare the stiffness, which is determined by the wire diameter and the number of turns. But it all starts with the original specifications.

Thanks for the reply no other error light doors/ seatbelt appear to be working correctly. Doesn't appear to be a problem with the battery, it was replaced 6 months ago. I tried error checking with Carista and that came up with 8 errors.. I cleared them but 3 returned. 1 with the infotainment system 1 with telematics and 1 with the multi functional module I'm on holiday at the moment so further investigation when I get home

Yes, the new slide pins slide in and out. I used some BTAS ceramic brake lubricant. I made sure I cleaned the face of the hub etc. I picked up a new hub today, so shall fit that tomorrow, fingers crossed this fixes it!

It was indeed broken wiring between the the tailgate and vehicle body. You where spot on thanks so much.

Corrected post.

There is no DPF. it is a 2013 1.8 TSI.

Ignore, I missed that it' a TSI! ☹️ I'd walk away from that - that yearly mileage for the past three years will not have done any favours to the DPF - if it's actually still in place (should be MOT failure if removed). DPF regen history would make interesting reading!

. @reedy10 Welcome to the forum. I am pretty deaf but it sounds pretty rubbish. Have you seen and read the Pinned thread on the 1.8TSI & 2.0TSI,s at the top of the Octavia Mk2 Forum? Maybe this engine has had work done, or maybe it could be an excessive oil drinker. 1.8TSI,s are a lottery. 76 pages of many horrors. Any record showing spark plugs changed any time recently, or air filter?

Dealer. 53 k miles, definitely matches mot. Been driven last 3 years 2 - 3 thousand a year only. No record of exvess use. Tes tappety sounds right. Ither than this the car looks great.

Thanks for the replies all. After a month I finally got the second key, which meant I had to go back to the garage, a trip of 83 miles, so it could be co-ordinated in, took an hour. Free of course. I had to chase them a bit but all's well in the end.

Extremely unlikely that the VAG product has any 'magic ingredient' in it, just buy a reputable silicone grease.

Welcome to the forum. Is this private or dealer sale? What is recorded mileage, does this match MOT history? I don't hear anything particularly unusual with that recording, possibly a little 'tappety' is there any record of excess engine oil use? Strongly suggest getting an independent vehicle inspection though.

You are correct, car can potentially blind incoming traffic in auto mode because of the central barrier and how late will recognize incoming cars. So this is not perfect solution but I believe the best we've got at the moment. And that is why I mentioned that I personally don't use auto mode on motorway unless it's quiet and not so many cars. I don't think Skoda would offer repair to millions of cars( European drivers have same problems) for free even if they would recognize problem on my appointment. Most likely they would do exactly the same thing that this guy did to help me sort it out. But I agree, that is potentially solution causing blinding drivers if used on busy motorway. As per GPS slowing car in 30mph zones as an example, I can't comment as my car hasn't got sign recognition so I never relied on it.

I've earmarked all I need to change the plugs on my iV's 1.4 engine. The only thing I'm unsure of is that in the workshop manual it states I should coat the base of the ignition coils with silicone paste. Apart from the price, is there anything exceptional about VW OEM silicone grease? If I want to buy non-OEM, is there anything I should be looking out for?

Hello fellows and ladies, I would like to ask You for a help with my recent problem with my Karoq 1.5 MY2020 Day by day, the right rear LED suddenly stopped working (it dimmed, it is not fully 100% light?) Has anyone experienced a similar issue? Is it something I can fix myself? Is there a way that led bar can be replaced, or does the entire rear light part need to be replaced? I already checked the Fusebox - all good there. I cleaned all connectors with contact cleaner and scrap them a bit to made better connection for ground. I also read on diffrent forum that someone had similiar issue and some kind of PCB module had "cold solder joints" but I couldnt reach that person that he would explain what and where exatcly. So this is by far everthing that I had in mind to check, Any more clues and information I would be grateful Thanks in advance

Hi Issue: Over a longer journey the air coming into the cabin reduces and gets warm. If the aircon is switched off the air blowing into the cabin increases significantly, if after a few mins the aircon is switched back on the pressure of air coming into the cabin remains constant but it now cools again. Under the car is a pool of water. Internet search: The search results suggest a faulty interior evaporator sensor, part number 5Q0 907 543 A. Which causes the compressor to run permanently, this causes continuous cooling and ice to form on the fins (apparently). Challenge: There is no video showing how to remove the lower dashboard panel below the steering wheel on a RHD car (which is where it suggests I need to access to replace the sensor). Firstly have I got the right place for a RHD car, secondly does anyone have any pictures/manuals, showing the removal of the lower dashboard on the drivers side for a RHD car? Or better still a video/still images of replacing the actual sensor. Thanks in advance!!!