Leaderboard

Deffo no longer going out playing, car gets de-snowed and de-iced for our daily walk and that’s it. We’re just N of the Amber Alert area but expecting a decent amount. Highland Council issue snow gauge, some call it a garden waste wheelie bin, is at the ready, though don’t want a repeat of this.

I've just tried it on your behalf and didn't have any problems - you still have 140Mb of free data available. Maybe try clearing browser caches or a different browser, logging off/on etc as I don't believe it's an issue at this side.

With so many of the newest VW Group vehicles including new Skoda having Software Issues it is really worth a thread of it's own. It comes about because of the VW Group having to get vehicles sold and first registered to help towards them having the average Co2 g/km so as they are not going to be fined, so cars not properly functioning with the features buyers have paid for. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/488974-faults-reported-to-dealer

There is an explanation for the UK 5 year 50k miles recommendation. Skoda UK / VW Group forced Dealerships to have modern exteriors to buildings and fancy looking showrooms and comfortable places to sit while the customer gets ripped off. The Dealerships can not just stay busy doing 'Recall Actions', Warranty Work, Emissions Fixes etc they need paid work doing Services & Maintenance work.

we got closer to 20cm yesterday and the wind blew it everywhere. Not as bad as Helsinki, though, which seems to have had over 30cm and one friend is reporting 50.... that's about half the snow due over the winter, dumped in one day.

Looking through this forum on the Kodiak, there ae no real issues being reported on the UK market However you should consider what you intend to do in the car. First off it is not a real off-road vehicle in the Australian sense, but perfectly adequate for our reasonably well maintained dirt roads, AWD is useful for when it gets wet or getting on/off a firm beach. The lack of ground clearance is the main issue. If you are looking at doing any towing then be aware then you need to check the price of getting one fitted (relatively expensive) and its capabilities in terms of ball weight (relatively low). Tiguan options are better for towing as they can take a 200 kg ball-weight which is better suited to Aus caravans. Diesel comes with DPF (as every diesel does now in Aus) but be aware they are not good news if your vehicle is only used for school drop/pickup and the local shops. It really needs a decent run at least every couple of weeks to successfully complete a particulate burnoff. The 2.0tsi petrol engine is good, relatively economical and the DSG gearbox is the heavy duty 'wet' kind which I like and more reliable than some other options. However if you are used to a torque converter box you should get a decent test drive to make sure you like its characteristics, great on the go but some are not happy with it in stop/go conditions or reversing up a slope. The problem with the Aus Skoda dealers is that they are relatively rare, so if you have a good one reasonably close to you then there should be no issue. Legally you can use a registered independent without affecting your 5 year warranty but I am not sure if they have access to updating your automated Skoda service record. So you would have to keep the receipts and reports as proof that servicing has been maintained if you choose that path. The pre-purchase servicing packages are better value but they do tie you to Skoda dealerships, although my experience with Adelaide dealers over 11 years of Skoda ownership is that they are pretty good.

Not quite that simple on a MK3, but it’s easy enough. Yes I’m near Folkestone

pick mine up on thursday

Nice reflection from the solid Sprint Yellow of my Mk1 Fabia vRS

decided it is finally time to catalog all the bits n pieces I've done to Gandalf (MY17 Superb 162TSi). its been 3.5 yrs, and a lot has been done, but u wouldn't think that looking at it. below is full listing of everything I've done. all things small, and some big. Geez - there is a LOT of things!!! I didn't realise how many until I listed each & every one of them them down!!! yes, I need an Intervention hence, this is going to b a long long post - u've been warned!! firstly - a summary of all the things done, including links. This will b followed by subsequent posts of pics, and details for some of the things. things I may, or may not, do in the near future:- - ECU Tune - TCU Tune - Front Strut brace - Front End-links - illuminated front door sills enjoy, cringe or look away........ Interior Modifications - Chrome strip across dashboard - Chrome rings on interior door handles - Aluminum alloy DSG paddle shifter extensions - Chrome plated 12v socket cover - Stainless Steel footrest Accelerator & Brake Pedals - Chrome boot close button - Chrome Car Seat Memory Switch - Key bottom Chrome end tip RS6 style - SUPERB - Headrest multifunctional coat hanger - Rubber mat over rear tunnel Exterior Modifications - Rieger side-skirts, color-coded (P/N: K00079041+ K00079042) - Black Fog light Frames - Sportline rear diffusor - Heko Wind Deflectors - Blackened (plasti-dip) front lower grille chrome bits - Spaced out SUPERB lettering, front & back - SUPERB fender badge - Roof wrapped Gloss Black vinyl - Chrome strip across rear lights and boot edge, like Facelift model - Chrome strip across lower door guard protector edge, like L&K models - Chrome strip across front bumper lower edge, like L&K models - Mudflaps, front (modified to accommodate side-skirts) & rear - Skoda tire valve caps - Aluminum alloy fuel cap cover - Stainless Steel door lock cover - Aluminum Boot Lid rear door sill - Chrome Door Handle Bowls - Lightly smoked tint rear tail lights - Lightly smoked tint fog lights - Sound deadening - boot floor, inside wheel arches (front & rear) - removed blocked brake duct in front wheel arches Handling Modifications - 15mm front & rear aluminum hub-centric spacers - 25.4mm Hardrace rear sway bar (P/N: HR7759) - Whiteline rear end-links (adjustable) (P/N: KLC202) - Eibach Prokit Lowering Springs (25mm) (P/N: 10-84-042-02-22) - 034Motorsport Billet Aluminum MQB Lower Dogbone Mount Insert Mechanical Modifications - 034Motorsport Turbo Muffler Delete - CTS MQB Gen3 High-flow Turbo Inlet elbow - Torque Solution Turbo Inlet pipe - Modified air intake - unblocked air intake flap, additional holes in front of airbox - Snow Guard removal - aFe Magnaflow Air filter - Engine dust shield cover - ECS Atmospheric Diverter Valve Spacer (removed after 3 months) Technology/Lights Modifications - Start-stop memory device - Smart Light Assist (SLA) retrofit (P/N: 3V2941015B, 3V2941016B, 4H0941329 x2, 8P0941621) (video) - Direct Tire Pressure Monitoring System (TPMS) retrofit (P/N: 5Q0907273B, 5Q0907275B x4, 3G0907538) - Dynamic Wing Mirror Indicators (video) - Mega Power LED boot lights - Auxito LED bulbs - reverse and indicator bulbs. (video) - Lumileds LED fog light bulbs - Philips xTremeVision Gen2 D3S bulbs - Rear door warning lights retrofit - SUPERB Ghost LED door warning lights, front & rear - Blackvue DR450 front dashcam - Rear console 12v socket converted to Dual USB ports (in progress) VCDS Coding Modifications - activated alarm chirp when locking/unlocking - enabled SLA (next level up from HBA) - activated eyelashes (requires SLA headlights) - activated Fog lights as Coming-Home/Leaving-Home - activated rear lights with DRLs - activated DRL menu in infotainment - activated Traffic Sign Recognition (TSR) - disabled tailgate beep - activated refuel quantity - activated traffic notifications (TMC) - disabled undertaking prevention - enabled High Beam Assist (HBA) memory - comfort indicator from 3 to 5 flashes - enabled instrument (dash) illumination at all times - Throttle change to direct - Engine Start button strobe effect (video) VCP Modifications - upload SLA parameter file for 4B Multi function module - upload TPMS parameter file for 65 Tire Pressure module

What about a Karoq Sportline with the 140 kW motor and AWD as an option. Slightly smaller, but all the same top spec and cheaper than an equivalent Kodiaq?

This would be a better plan:- Thanks, AG Falco

Blackvue DR590W in mine, hardwired to the fuse box. No issues with DAB, which works perfectly.

My current unit has DAB, but no GPS. Digging around myself, I found this: https://www.golfmk7.com/forums/index.php?threads/diy-mib2-infotainment-conversion-into-2018-s-models.359659/ Looks like someone has done this for a 2018 Golf, so I'm optimistic it should be doable for the Superb.

been powersliding with the pictured sx4 today...

Thanks PipH, that's reassuring and really helpful. I think I'll order it from Amazon despite the price, as I've had a few bad experiences with buying from Ebay recently; and on your parts compatibility list it doesn't mention the make "Firstline", although Behr is there and other manufacturers I've heard of. Also, checking compatibility on the Ebay site shows that is not suitable for my car, even though the part number matches the parts list! I've attached the screenshot. Anyway, I'm very grateful for your help, thnak you again.

As long as the power supply is equal to or greater than 1500mA, you will not have a problem. The 2000mA power supplies will be satisfactory.

Yes, it shows quite accurate temperature on main dashboard When about car's computer we can expect to situations that apparently look awfully silly... I know that, thanks for the answer!

Well, good news, Skoda has covered the whole turbo and actuator unit and this has now been replaced, the extended warranty has certainly saved me a fortune. I asked my dealer how much would it have cost if I just walked in and had it all replaced, he reckoned about £2300. Okay, probably a lot more than an independent or a repair/exchange unit but that would be expected, main dealers are normally the most expensive. This is one job I did not have to get price matched either. The pedal box did not make any difference I am of course very pleased to say! I emailed Skoda Customer Services last week about this, not heard anything yet.

I’ve been using pennant hills for the last 7 yrs or so, got off to a rough start but there pretty good and consistent. Muller & Muller in Dural are exceptional and I go here now.

The addiction clinic doctor will see you now! Have you ever added up how much all that lot cost? If it were me I don't think I want to do that calculation. Hats off to you though for your dedication & for not going over the top - you might be getting close though. I like the roof. Might be a way of covering up the scratches I have on mine instead of a re-paint. Mine's black already so a contrasting colour perhaps. That said I don't want to turn it into a cop car . I assume you are planning to keep the car

That Marshall's vehicle description is all over the place. 218BHP for a 272? Makes you wonder how much else is not described correctly. "Cut n past" errors from another advert most likely. At least the pics show twin exhausts which confirm it's a 272 - assuming the pics are of the car on sale . Buying remotely without being able to see it in the flesh definitely has it's drawbacks. I would want to have a detailed conversation & viewing before & shelled out that sort of money. As others have said 36mpg is feasible if you drive like a nun! But what's the point of buying a car like this is your not going to use the performance. Figure 25-28mpg as nearer the day to day average - especially if you are a regular user of Sport mode on the DSG. Personally I would want a rear wiper, which is std on the estate, but since I have no experience of the hatch Superb I can't say for sure whether it's a must have. I would also want a proper spare wheel or a space saver as a minimum. As well as the boot the rear seat / legroom in the Superb is huge in these cars which is why they should not be compare to 3 series BMW, C class Mercs or any other compact exec models. 5 series / E-Class is the size we are talking about here & even then the Superb has them all beaten on boot space. It took me at least 6 months to find my 2016 280 L&K (now 360bhp) when it had 25k on the clock at 2.5yrs old. 1 owner from new for £23K & I had to travel 150miles to Bournemouth (twice) to view & to collect it. L&K spec means it has all the bells & whistles some of which I don't use or need but was missing a pan roof which I did want. Even then mine car was not perfect. Curbed alloys needed refurbishing (which dealer did at no extra cost) & after purchasing I found some small scratches on the roof which I will get sorted at some point but I can live with them for now. In all other respects it's a clean car for a lot less than it's original new price. Best car I've owned to date &, in 280/272 guise, the ultimate under the radar sleeper which does not attract too much attention.

Does the outside air temperature show fine on your dashboard ? Sounds a silly question but you get a tyre pressure fault and engine fault if that fails.

If it helps, this seems to be the original wiring diagram: https://www.drive2.ru/l/530317274016383479/ Looks like the climate panel tells the BCM to turn on a relay which causes a second relay to turn on. The two relays then provide two 30a feeds (one for each side) of the windscreen

Reminds me of many many years ago when I was with a friend and his car couldn't climb a steep hill in North Wales. But the reverse gear was a lower ratio and we managed it in reverse!

As I said, it was just a guess. During Soviet times they never shut the construction machines off during wintertime in the Far East in Siberia because at -40 c there was no chance they could start up the bulldozer engine when the engine oil cools down. Fuel was cheap then.

Very unlikely I'm afraid. If you're doing a retrofit, expect to add all required wires :(

This seems to be a continuation of the OP's other thread: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/488998-led/ Yes, it can be done with OBDeleven if you know what you're doing. However, as per my suggestion in the other thread, Gizmo is close by and can enable rear DRL for you. It'll be the easiest, cheapest and least risky way of achieving this

I personally think it should be a requirement for front and rear, why the need to be seen from the front but not the rear??? Having coded both of mine to have Scandinavian DRL's, ODBeleven even has a one click app for it, two minute job!!

Yes this is true. But the state of the outgoing filter was filthy, not just a carbon one. It hadn’t been changed in 60k miles so not surprising really.

Whilst there could be another fault (which you would need the auto electrician to identify), I am in the dying battery camp. The clue to me was started fine after a charge, the references to only 10v. Not sure about the grinding but possibly slow release of something if electrical relay is being sluggish due to lower voltage. If the garage tested the battery, did they do it in a warm workshop, or out in the cold, if something is dying in cold, might not show in warm If the battery is 8 years old, may as we’ll change it, as probably going to have to do it sometime in next few months anyway. A continuously strong batter and voltage might solve problems anyway.

Skoda CZ and their parent company VW Group are the biggest threat to Skoda. The poor Quality Control and releasing vehicles for sale with functions that have faults, glitches or that are not yet fit for use is an issue. If they are just turning out as many vehicles with lower emissions as soon as they can to meet the low average they need to then that is another scandal from VW Group. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/488974-faults-reported-to-dealer Maybe Skoda UK should be doing something more about the vehicles they import not being fit for purpose. Maybe the Motoring Press & Journalists should be asking questions of the CEO's, Brand Directors and Board of Management of VW UK. Buying & driving older Skoda really is 'Simply Clever'.

It feels like these guys can come at any time now!

You can have all of my snow for free,,,,you just have to pick it up

Actually Root, as someone who's had it enabled for the past few thousand miles, I disagree with you. On the road, particularly on my favourite bumpy, twisty, greasy ones, it makes a significant difference to the way the car drives. It improves the turn in, reduces understeer and allows the car to hold a line better in tight bends. It probably helps that I've got bigger brakes and uprated pads. Nevertheless, yes it might well still overheat the brakes on the track where my Yeti is unlikely ever to venture but on local B roads and unclassifieds it's a definite improvement. Also, it's no accident that our other Škoda comes with XDS+ and that's even better on the same roads.

Never mind red dots, invest in black ones, aka full stops.

Stock behaviour is just front DRL. With tools such as VCDS or OBDeleven, you can also make the tail lights work as DRL. It doesn't matter if they are LED or normal bulbs. It's a simple two minute job 😉 I think even the dealer tool has a function to enable this. It certainly has on past models.

yeah.......ok, if somebody's tailgating you, I don't think a red light is going to do anything.

Thank you for all the wishes and prayers, guys Finally, it is snowing in Bratislava.

Hi All Firstly lads Sorry for bringing this thread back again I had a noise like a whistling scraping type - about 2k to 3k RPM beginning just after spool up - no boost reduction - no smoke or oil loss Started before Christmas and got steadily worse ! I had a fellow primed to refurbish the turbo ! I was all set to take out the turbo with the instructions from this forum and had the top half stripped. Once I got under the car and started I discovered a discoloration of the downpipe flange and a loose bolt ! Gasket was missing ! The turbo impeller blades were perfect and bearing endfloat was negligible. I put a new gasket on and new bolts. Put all back together and all is good ! Again lads I could not have done this job myself without this forum. Great resource - when the noise started I thought worst case but was well pleased to find the cause !

Rescan and save when you have the DTC.

I have just changed the tank, on my 31.000mile 66 plate 2L diesel, because It says MIT SILIKAT and don't want to fork out for a big bill if the bag bursts. I had a furk around in the tank but due to the tank design there is not much room to furk. Rang the main dealer Autosales in Burntwood for a price on a new one and also asked them to check it didn't have MIT SILIKAT printed on the tank and did not contain a bag, No was the reply to both questions, so parted with £30.14 which I thought was not bad although you don't get the cap So today I did the deed, it took longer to drain the tank with a turkey baster, you try getting one of them this side of Christmas, than it did to disconnect and refit the hoses. Now despite the old tank having MIT SILIKAT emblazoned on it the bag was nowhere to be found, so, either it has already been removed which I doubt, it's burst but the coolant has not changed colour, nice and pink and the heater still works or there was never one in the tank in the first place. On having a closer look at the old tank it appears to be twin walled and the bag seems to be located to the left of the MIT SILIKAT printing between the walls of the tank. Not a very hard job to do at all, hope this is of some help

Many thanks for this, much appreciated. The diagrams help loads as well, but the info given means I can probably do what I want very easily. The low line only having a single wire pair into each door means I can replace the actual speakers with something more sensitive, higher quality, and I can fit a proper crossover in the door. This really ought to improve the sound quality a lot based on what I can see of the factory fit units. If that ends up being no good I can add an aftermarket amp but hopefully I won't have to go there.

There is a seperate function in VCDS at the very highest menu level for checking the mileage of the vehicles ECU compared to that which is recorded and displayed on the instrument binnacle. I had fitted a remapped "plug n play" ECU and the speedo read as it always had, i'm pretty sure the VCDS printouts showed the actua mileage (but in kms) and when I used that function it showed a much higher kilometrage, that of the donor vehicle and I am pretty certain that it increased as I put more kms on the replacement ECU. There was a text explanation to say that the figure embedded in the ECU was there to witness any clocking of the instrument binnacle and that the algorithm that it used was the number of hours driven multiplied by the average speed or something and as such it was normal for it to be very slightly different to the speedo display. That function does not work on the Yeti it says it is not supported but worked on the MK2 Octavia. The info can be found though under advanced measuring blocks of the engine contro module.

My old car......

Update 1: The injectors didn't arrive until midday Sat, so pushed things back a little. Injectors all cleaned and passed all tests (leak down, resistance, spray pattern before 2 good 2 Fair, after 4 good). Re-assembled. Only broke 3 plastic bits in the job! 1 - a small release tab on one of the electrical connectors but it still click locks ok. 2 one of the nipples on the port dividers that fit into the holes on the inlet mani gasket. 3 - on leg on one of the plastic stand off stands for the injectors. After a fair bit of cranking and some key cycles / door opening closing it eventually fired up. Did an oil and filter change. All seems good now. Throttle control response under light throttle definitely improved. A road / motor way progress I did not notice a lot of difference tbh. I am hoping the cold start light throttle miss and rough idle will be gone. Will report back after a few mornings. Also hoping that the fuel economy might get back to levels of a year or two back. But to early to report at this stage.

I have no FB😂😂😂😂 I'm redneck