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Two 1984-built Montego Black WR urquattros in one place! It was great catching up with Andrew and Justine from Christchurch, on their way back from the Vintage Car Club rally and well-timed for the day we went to Covid Red traffic light setting.

@DensYeti What will you have to prove to the MOT man? He or She will be testing cars regularly with only a single rear fog light.

Thanks a Mill Wino ! The drivers window has to operate but they don't check the passenger side ! Well she absolutely flew the test - clean sheet pass - no advisories and no bodywork issues so I'm really happy ! Another year Ive never had any problem with smoke or emissions - They rev the nuts off it 3 times and this makes me cringe so I leave the car with them and go elsewhere. I got a figure of 0.100 /m and due to her being of a certain age Euro 3 I'm allowed 2.50/m - what this actually means i haven't a clue ! My car doesn't smoke too bad, the only time is a cold start but there does be a trace on the bumper and tailgate if I don't wash it for a long time. I'm setting about the window job tomorrow and I'll take the speaker out and use the extendable magnet - otherwise I will have to turn her on her nose and shake her till it falls out 😅 I'm not great at taking pictures but I will do tomorrow and let yous know how I get on !! Thank again Lads for the advice !!

It won't be anything to do with the timing belt, a timing belt either works fine or it snaps, performance doesn't deteriorate as the belt ages If you're due a major service then you should get that work done first before escalating to a fault diagnosis from this forum.

This. VW don't poach anybody competent because anybody competent knows their reputation. Recruiters have to resort to slimy tactics (hiding the employer until after the phase 1 interview usually) to get devs into those positions.

On your advice I have removed the battery cleaned the contact points and I have also bent the spring contacts slightly for extra pressure. All good now 👍

As with so many other things in car world, engine code should tell you the answer. Go to the link in my signature if you don't know how/where to find this. Scrutinising years 2008-2010 inclusive for Roomster, the only mention of particulate filters in the 'fuel, exhaust, cooling' area of ETKA is for engine codes BMS and BLS, of which the former is a 1.4l engine, the latter a 1.9. e.g. for 2009 fuel, exhaust, cooling Roomster (RO) [EUROPA 2009 year] (7zap.com) I don't see any mentions of any alternative exhausts for BMS engines without particulate filter on the same page either, which seems conclusive. If the car has a BMS engine, it'll have a DPF, if not, it won't.

Thanks. It turned out to be a turbo issue and when i scanned the car it did give under boost error code. New turbo has been order and i ll fit that this weekend. Engine started fine when i disconnected all turbo pipes which were full of oil... now i need to clean all pipes and intercooler...

No, it's pretty straightforward. Howto at http://wiki.ross-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Trailer_Hitch_Retrofitting_(1K) @OP The wiring is tedious, but not difficult. All boot interior panels come off, and you lift off the side trims along the drivers' side at the sill to run the cables up to the dash. Most awkward bit up there is getting the CAN lines into the brown BCM connector. OEM towbar wiring kit comes with good instructions on how to do all of that stuff. Budget about a day to do the job, and I'd recommend purchasing the service manuals from https://erwin.skoda-auto.cz/erwin/showHome.do for instructions on removing the trim intact.

OK you don’t need a car but their car sitting outside your house can have an amazing affect on the dealer’s ability to focus on getting your car fixed and their car back to them. The fact that you won’t be using it is neither here nor there. Plus might be worth putting them on notice that if they don’t fix it this time then you’ll be pressing the honking great “reject” button.

It could be any number of things but agree with sepulchrave it's not going to be the timing belt. I'd start by getting the car read for error codes to see if there are any that might give an indication as to what the cause of the lumpy tick over might be.

I have no intention on tinting the front windows, or featuring on an episode of pimp my ride 🤣

From what I understand, they all have the one on the other side of what they drive on is turned off

It can be an expensive lesson if you are pulled over by the police and they check it, they can forcibly remove it by getting it peeled off there and then or issue a rectification notice, fine and possibly penalty points as well. Ask yourself is it really worth it? Do you want to be a target for the police and drive a pimp mobile?

In Eyemouth with the camera this afternoon. Looking at the broader picture with a wide zoom lens rather than using my “go to” long lens’.

Only on Auto mode full beam (1 push, not 2). I've noticed that a lot of bixenon beemers have been flashing me when i'm on dipped, but a quick blip of main quells any dickishness from them.

They restore their pattern when you stop. Since they change light pattern according to speed and situations, when you stop they return to "parking" state, which is just a normal state.

As there seems to be a lot of people asking questions about this lately, I thought I'd put together a quick guide showing how I fitted my reverse camera to a facelift VRS hatchback. They way that i've fitted this will apply to most models, with the key differences being the size of handle (based upon car model year) and whether hatch or estate (but this is just inside trim differences), there may also be wiring loom differences for earlier cars or none VRS models. I've benefited from info from these forums so hopefully this will be useful to others. I am by no means an expert & I won't be able to answer all of your questions, hopefully others will chip in and can add other info as well. First of all, this is the camera that I ordered for my MY 2017 VRS (Camera A/Handle A): https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000230897829.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.40694c4dTEPT93 (link may no longer be valid when you read this so screenshot below) No programming is required for this camera and it supports dynamic reverse guidelines Tools: Trim removal tools would be useful, but otherwise plastic tool that won't mark your car, or screwdrivers or similar with masking tape over the end. A T20 torx head tool is required if you have a hatchback to remove the pulldown boot strap Cable rods are very useful, I couldn't have fitted through the roof lining without. Stereo removal tools unless they come with your camera kit Cable route - I went with an OEM route for my cabling, following existing cables through the roofliner and out to the back as show by the red line below. The camera: The first thing that I did was to check that the boot release switch was working on the new unit - there's no way you want to wire this in and find it is faulty. You'll need to start removing the boot trim to access it. Remove the plastic clips from the lower boot trim- this consists of a few plastic clips which easily pop out with trim remover/screwdriver. There are 8 of these on the hatchback. After that start removing the upper plastic trim, this simply requires forces to release the metal clips. You don't need to remove all of this for now, but it will all need to come off later Remove the lower upholstered trim covering the tailgate. More metal clips - work your way around. You'll also need to remove the pull down strap with the T20 torx head. When this is down you should be able to drop the boot liner which will give access to the boot release handle. This can be awkward to remove, but can be done by pushing in the clip on one on the ends whilst also pushing down on the handle from the inside (ignore the clips along its length) - it should then pop out. Repeat for the other side. Unplug the harness and plug the new handle in - check the release switch works. You can either now push the new handle in until it clips, or leave it out to test the video connection later before fitting. To wire it in Remove the glovebox (open, rock left to right whilst pulling up & you'll hear the bottom clips release. Raise the glovebox lid up and inside the housing and reach in and remove the dampening on the left hand side) Use the stereo release keys to release the multimedia unit. The kit used here comes with a replacement harness that sits between the original one and the media unit & includes the video feed cable. Some people have removed the upper glovebox section to provide more access, be careful not to unplug the airbag connector if you do this. This can be fiddly, but I found the best way was to lie on my back with my head in footwell looking up at the unit from underneath. With the media unit slid fowards this gives access to the harness. It's the large one at the bottom and there is a locking connecting that needs to be pushed backwards to release. Check how it works on your replacement harness. Unplug old harness and plug it in to one end of the new one, push the harness in to the void and plug the new connector block in to the media unit. This took me a while to get it all to fit in. When done you can now test the video feed to the rear camera before your start wiring it in permanently. I took the camera cable over the top of the fusebox cage & out through the side panel I then ran the cable up the A Pillar to the roof lining and all the way to the end. Cable rods were really useful at this point, especially to get around the B pillar , and to go from the end of the roof liner through the cable exit point behind the rubber trunking where the original boot cables are. You can also run the cable in the trim above the sill and work your way back up to the roof lining on the C pillar. When you get to the end of the roof lining you'll need to unclip the rubber gator at the top of the boot so you can get the cable out of the roof liner and in to the boot via this gator. If you install the same way as me you only need to peel the roof liner down a few cm, being careful not to deform or damage it and you'll see the OEM cables behind. Once you've got the cable this far it's a case of feeding it through the rubber gator, up the side of the boot and over to the handle; connect the video cable and tidying up any spare cable. Everything should now be up and running. Retrace your steps to refit your trim. You now have a fully working reverse camera, activated when reverse is selected and with dynamic guidelines. The parking sensor guide now shifts to the left of the screen the same as an OEM reverse camera. I will come back and re-edit this tomorrow and resize pics as it's getting late. I'll tidy up any errors as I see them so please don't jump on me straight away!

Don't be worried, but don't expect it to do much either. Your engine ECU has no permanent power feed; so every time you take the keys out of the ignition it is unpowered just as much as if you disconnected the battery. Have you thought about looking at the misfire info that VCDS may be able to tell you about, as I mentioned upthread?

Off-Topic (slightly) - enquired about an ID.3 at the local VW dealer today and was told delivery would be 2023...

I expect the build codes would tell you if a DPF was fitted. If you can get the build codes that relate to the vehicle's VIN, you could use the "VW Codes Decoder" to check whether a DPF is present. VW Codes Decoder http://igorweb.org/equidec.aspx

Just an explanation from the factory would go down well.

Yeah indeed, its a complete cluster****

Polo 9N stuff should fit, Octavia less likely.

Happy to stand corrected but I believe only facelift Roomsters have DPFs. Pre-facelift, the only model in the Roomster/Fabia range to have a DPF was the Fabia Greenline.

Its to do with how far the smoke goes out of the tail pipe I think. So if theres a big ream of smoke going more than 2.5m from the tailpipe its a fail. Stupid metric but they can't test diesels for emissions so they just use smoke instead. A straight piped car would pass on smoke easily unless it has a smoke map or what have you. Not sure if they can fail for a catalyst being missing if it still passes on smoke.

I dont know about the 1.4 but my 2007 1.9 PD does not have a DPF so I have doubts about accuracy of these lists.

Leighter weight cars, better aerodynamics (why are most EV SUV shaped), better efficiency and maybe nick that 2 speed gearbox from Porsche.

I'm with Jaxx, I deserve to be at the top of the list now! Original build week was August, got to laugh or I'll go mad 🤣 They've admitted as much, it's on spec and colour not order date. Seemingly no limit on how long they can keep sticking me to the bottom of the pile either!

Less patience and more rock and a hard place. Got an S-Max with over 100k miles on it, sold the Audi and went down to one car. Want something that will do the kit and quality of the Audi but the space of the S-Max... And at the price point there isn't anything else. And if I order something else? I'm waiting again. And if I go second hand I'm spending the same/near as much money on something second hand because the market is mad. Also the wife says if we cancel then the money is going on doing up the bathrooms so...

The Octavia MK4 uses bigger outside diameter tyres than the previous three generations. Hence the outside diameter of 225/40R18 tyres is too small for the Octavia MK4. If you do use them, the speedo will massively over-read. An indicated 70mph on the speedo will translate to about an actual 63mph. The standard 18" tyres on the Octavia MK4 are 225/45R18, not 225/40R18.

The ECU will trigger an active regen based on the following The soot load of the particulate filter is calculated by two pre-programmed load models in the ECM. One load model is determined from the user driving style and values from the exhaust gas temperature sensor and lambda probe signals. Another soot load model is the flow resistance of the particulate filter. It is calculated using data from the G450 Exhaust Pressure Sensor 1, the exhaust gas temperature sensors, and the calculated exhaust mass flow from the ECM. We will never know the actual values predetermined by VW as they will be kept out of the public domain. From what I have read and understand I dont think there is a service upper limit based on oil load alone. From what I gather it is all based on flow. You can mathematically work out the weight of the oil volume. But first you need to know how much the oil residue would weigh per Litre to gram. Far beyond my skill set as I am not a scientist with the correct equipment to be able to measure

Pretty accurate depiction of what my car looks like now: https://www.tuningblog.eu/en/categories/cars-from-az/sport-springs-skoda-octavia-327799/ Good to know is that the car in the above pictures has original wheels 7,5 x 18 with 48 mm offset, tires 225/40/18, and wheel spacers (10 mm front, 12 mm rear)

Just had mine back from being serviced. Got them to do the software update, the MIB3 system is now at software version 0278. Assigning users to the key fobs now works and the system powers on and loads up a lot faster than previously. Only snag is I have two notifications about the data esim that despite deleting won't actually clear. Dealer reckons it took 4 hours to update

Just want to add on to this 🙂 There can be two different problems. 1 . Myskoda app on your phone is not working, which have been the case several times during the last 2 months, hopefully the latest update can solve some of these problems. (Refering to the new version 5.0.0) 🙂 Even though it seems like a new front page in the app. but the underlaying menues are still the old ones, and some of the menues arer still in BETA 2 Car is Offline eq. ( Top line in infotainment system) Before (not working) After (working) Which means the esim or modem is not able to connect to the telephone/GSM/LTE network (Or what ever telephone network is used), and here doing the fuse trick. Pulling out fuse 19 and re-insert it put my car back online. FYI. Info found on https://rsw.io/what-to-do-when-your-skoda-enyaq-is-unable-get-online/ How to reset the modem in the Škoda Enyaq The process is of resetting the modem, is simple, just follow the below: 1) Ensure the cars is off 2) Access the fuses (for right had drive models, you open the glove compartment, and they are in the panel to the left) 3) Remove fuse 19 for approximately 60 seconds, and put it back in The manual lists fuse 19 as being for the instrument cluster, emergency call, online services 4) Wait anywhere between 2-10 minutes, and you should see the signal bars return to the connectivity section of the display Before (not working) After (working) 5) If after 10 minutes, you do not see the signal bars, even if empty (e.g. no signal), repeat the above steps, but for fuse 30 (listed in the manual as for the infotainment system). I have not had to do this step, but I have seen others online say they had to.

The mk3 pre-facelift Superb has either Bi-xenons, or halogens. Not both. It uses a single D3S xenon bulb to do both low and high beams.

Let me try again. The button to the right of the centre at the bottom of the display toggles the display from "station logos" to "text" on both the FM display and the DAB display. Quite why I can see the text scrolling in the FM logo display but nothing in the DAB logo display is up for grabs. But that's how it is in my 2017 "Swing". Also, regarding station logos, you can put in pretty much what you want, provided the file isn't too big. I used 160 pixel wide by 120 pixel high .png to match the provided files. See the deliberately fuzzy, bleached out picture DAB1. P.S. The SD card slot works on this Swing, and there is no card slot in the glove box (unlike our Fabia).

Playing devils advocate here having worked in the motor trade for a number of years on the sales side the amount of times I've heard someone say, for example, "I just want a perfect running car it’s not asking a lot considering the mileage and 1 previous owner". You've answered your own question there, it's heading for 4 years old, out of warranty and has had one previous owner of unknown driving ability. People want all the benefits of a brand new car without buying one. I will site an example from back when I was selling Suzuki's. One of our aging customers bought a brand new Swift which we didn't see again for 3 years until he brought it in to P/X against another new one as he was having a few issues with it. In 3 years it had covered under 700 miles, it had never been in for a service, he had been riding the clutch and admitted he only used it once a week to do a 3 mile round trip to the shops and didn't take it out of 2nd gear as he didn't like driving fast. The wheels were kerbed and the tyres had chunks taken out of them. The engine had never even been warmed up. Now, this is an extreme scenario but a potential buyer of a second hand car wold just see a very low mileage, 3 year old, one owner car but they'd be buying a whole heap of potential issues. We didn't want it on our forecourt so traded it out.

Are you running different makes of tyres? even if they are the same size different makes might have slightly different diametres.

Ooh I also changed the cam belt and water pump! 🤣

When you login, click products and services, and select Digital Service Schedule. then you get this page, put in the VIN and then click Open DSS as highlighted below, this will pop up a new window and the use the magnifying glass on the left to see what has been done

I noticed some posts in German FB group about recalibration of the assistance system when people did lower their cars. Not sure if this is really needed or not.

There was another one yesterday, a 2017 SEAT Leon 1.4TSI, AA could only move the car once and so to the local non VW Group workshop, that car is obviously out of warranty but has full SEAT dealership service history from the local but 15 miles away dealership. Probably due to annoyance etc, that person walked into his SEAT dealership today to have a chat with the sales team, "we have never heard about this happening before". I suggested that he saved time and further annoyance and let that non VW Group workshop complete this repair so that he can get back to using it to get to work. Not good, he is going to chat to his local service department - just because, why not, spread your pain! Edit:- on another VW forum, the guy that runs it is a tech in a VW Group Indie workshop, and they have not heard or seen any EA211 engined cars coming in with this issue, so it seems most owners take the only action they can to get mobile again and that is to get their car to their nearest workshop after the fuel rail bolt has snapped - and it sounds like 9.5+ times out of 10 that means a non VW Group workshop.

And done. Not set to low still has to be useable unlike the last one

A close up of the position. The fully open position at the other end of the cog is the same. If you fit a bracket. Note there are two on ebay. This one is the better fit, and easier to fit out of the two as it grips in place. I have both.

Hi all! it's been a while since my last update and I've got a few little things done since then. The main improvement is the Octavia VRS MK1 spider alloys and Michelin CrossClimate tyres, I drove up to Edinburgh and back in mid December so I though all season tyres were probably wise! Excuse the mud and dirt, excess miles and rural areas do that, but the 17" wheels really fit the car and fill the arches properly, although the rear still looks very high. The rain performance is 10x better as well, the car feels planted unless you get really silly and refuses to aquaplain no matter how hard I try (in a controlled environment, of course). When I bought the alloys they were horrifically kerbed and scratched up, so much so that I didn't want them on the car in that state so I sanded, primed, painted and lacquered them. Unfortunately I only had two days to do this so the lacquer didn't dry properly and took some of the paint off, making the finish look **** poor but it'll do until I can afford to have them properly refurbed. The best bit about these tyres? they cost me £50 for the set with 5-6mm tread, courtesy of @Subseaeng, who is a lovely gent! Overall £200 for a set of wheels and tyres, not bad. The next addition was a false floor for the boot, I go on frequent dog walks and there's a considerable drop between the folded rear seats and the boot floor which can't be comfortable for the puppers, the false floor should level this. Just finding the damn thing was a ******, I couldn't find it for sale anywhere online, official Skoda or aftermarket! In the end I trawled through a Skoda parts manual, found the part number, rang my local dealer and ordered it direct from Skoda UK. Do you want to guess how much a false boot floor for a Skoda hatchback costs? £92....profiteering czech *****. I must admit though it adds a lot of practicality to the car, my coats and shopping bags go under the floor, the doggos are comfy and the van-like rear cargo area is very useful! Almost worth the ninety two f*cking quid. Not really.

I had this issue when I had water ingress into the passenger footwell. There is a sticky on the forum here about how to check / repair.

If the DPF is blocked then there should be a warning light on the dashboard telling you? If it was mine I'd scan the car for error codes instead of trying to second guess what the problem is. If there is a turbo issue then you should get an under boost or even over boost error code. If there is an issue with the fuel system then you should also get an error code.

Yeah there is still hope "During my journey I heard engine whistling noise as I put my foot on the accelerator then when I release it that noise goes away/ reduces." Could be a loose pipe or the turbo whine the garage giving you the car back after them saying they test drove it and it drove with no issue SO this should rule out the turbo whining with oil starvation It could be just some thing silly "I don't want to go back to the garage as I had a fall out with him due to taking ages to change the hex pin" I know you say you dont want to but you need to phone the garage and tell them whats happened they will see with the mileage that its not went far and should come out and have a look or get it recovered to them.

You have a faulty parking sensor, normally caused by water ingress.