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Just got a confirmation. My car is finished, and will be at the dealers in 2-3 weeks. Hope it doesn’t fall out of the truck 😂

Hi guys. I just received very positive news. My sales rep. just called to inform me that my car is finished with production and that it is currently in trasport to Croatia. He said that I can expect that the car will be delivered in 2-3 weeks. Through conversation he also told me that he was in disbelief when the system showed him my car is in transfport because he has some cases of Octavias not being delivered even though they were ordered in April 2021, so he called the factory just to confirm that system is showing correct status for my Octavia and they told him that there is no mistake and that the car is in transport. My order: Octavia Style 1.5 TSI manual (additionaly, I added rear camera and Pulsar Aero wheels).

I made a video to answer this question https://youtu.be/5Qfw4og9mIM

The culprit

The Caddy had been off the road for a while, but it was getting close to being ready to put through an MOT, so I did a test of all the electrics, and quickly discovered that the headlights were not working, either on dipped or main beam. It seemed massively unlikely that all four fuses would have failed at the same time, so suspicion immediately fell onto the R1 relay. I pulled this out from the fusebox and found the terminals were corroded. Swapping this out for another relay had the headlights working again, and I could have left it at that, but I decided to have a closer look at the fusebox itself. Water had been leaking around the windscreen rubber, and more than once I had found the fusebox filled with water, which I always knew was likely to cause me problems at some point. The R1 relay corrosion was a manifestation of this, and I could probably expect similar issues with other circuits if I did not address the water damage. I was also curious about what the fusebox looked like inside, as I had not had one apart before. It did not take long to find out. All laid out as in the picture above it looks daunting, but each copper 'track' is unique, and fits into a matching slot on the appropriate plastic layer. I kept the copper pieces organised by layer, and reassembled one layer at a time, cleaning all the contact surfaces as I went along. When I had finished, it looked remarkably similar to how it looked when I started, and I had no 'spare' pieces of copper left over. Happy days.

I guess things are moving forward a bit, we should all be getting some info soon 🤞

Welcome to the forum. A 'upgraded' replacement cover should be coming to you at no cost eventually, but then the salesperson doing the handover should have known that and told you. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/503054-what-is-engine-cover-security-on-a-multi-point-inspection-report

I think that in this “2-3 weeks” is transport+deconservation (i think that is in Logatec+cleaning+final transport to dealer. if i waited 10 months, i can another 3 weeks 😂

Put it like this I have a Mk3 RS and it has been into the workshop a staggering 18 times in the 3½ years that I've had it. I decided (questionably) to order a Mk4 RS back in March, for the simple reason that I simply cannot find another car that gives me the space for load lugging (suitcases, shopping, animal feed sacks etc) and for the price, also the sporty performance, so I'm in it for the long haul, hopefully by the time it's built they'll have done further hardware and software revisions and it will have been sorted out 99.9% of the glitches, I may well get a Mk4.5! However I will only wait so long for it, I've been tentatively given an estimated arrival month of December, but if it goes much beyond that then I'll consider my options.. Would I buy a Mk4? Yes and I have, despite the negative comments and my reservations. I've jumped off the VAG bandwagon before, tried a couple of other marques and found the they weren't anywhere near as good as Skoda for VFM and (bar this last car), reliability. I'll see what happens when I get it, if it gives me real hell in within the time I can legally reject it, then I will exercise that option.

If you drop me a private message I have a small collection of different superb heating controls. When I’m home later today I can see if any match your spec, or if any are close enough to work and save you some money. If not I’ll help you source a cheaper correct module. out of interest - how do they know the control module is faulty, what was the problem and what tests have been done? Quite a uncommon part to fail really.

Far from perfect but here we are...

Found an interesting read in the Octavia forum: made me change the reservoir in my Superb 2.0 diesel. Part nr: 5Q0121407M is a perfect fit and does not contain the bag.

Just picked up our facelift Karoq yesterday and started to try and learn things from the manual. Aaaaarrrgh! The people who write these things must have no idea what it must be like for a new owner to find out how it all works writing such nonsense as: "Engine is not switched off via the START-STOP system due to the operating conditions that are not met" is one gem. We worked out most of the sat-nav system yesterday afternoon, despite the owners manual which is misleading and downright wrong in some paragraphs. I've been to the online manuals and they're even worse, the left hand location menu resets so you can't read the Function/settings one after the other. I've just gone back to the bookmarked online manual to find a Skoda foreign language page demanding an email and password that was not needed ten minutes ago! With all the work that goes into developing such great cars, why can't someone devise a useful owner's manual with ways to achieve everyday tasks instead of a sketchy button by buttton nonsense?

I found this parameter in VCDS under AWD Controller "Adaptions" I think, has anyone ever heard of it? Google searching gets lots of hits but nobody really seems to know what it really is and its confused by having various different names. Mine has 4 different parameter options, 2 for diesel and 2 for petrol, mine is diesel and both of them were not activated but one of the petrol ones was activated with a figure of 1750, I think the values ran from 1000 to 5 or 7000 so they could be RPM. Reading between the lines it could be that the Haldex disconnects above a certain RPM threshold in the higher gears, others think that its to make it come on fully below certain RPM's to react like a RWD car, that may be the case on earlier versions where the parameter did not say "Anti Drone" My car has always had a drone above 70mph, I thought it was because I had ran the diff without oil but I have done 30K miles since correcting that mistake and the diff hasn't siezed or got any worse, I have a new rubber coupling to fit as I thought the old one had split around its circumference but the new one shows it is manufactured like that so I am holding off. I am a bit concerned about playing with the values and that my Haldex appears to be programmed for petrol & not diesel Anti Drone, maybe I should just try disabling the pump and seeing if the droning goes or does the pump disengage the coupling? I will read the self study guide tonight for more info. If it gets rid of the noise I am quite happy to have FWD only above 70mph. Hopefully someone else will have seen this parameter and had a play.

Wait, no view button.. So no VC in plan (sarcasam)

seems link has changed, type "high temp candy" into ebay and loads will pop up from same seller 😊

Badly needs washed, but shines nicely.

My Orbea, Bosch 4 motor, has a magnet bolted to the rear wheel near the disc mounts and the pickup on the swing arm. I'm guessing it's calibrated by Bosch to rotate at that distance from axle for 29 wheels, possibly moved slightly for 27.5? Is it possible that when de-restricting the magnet is moved further out to fool the pickup re wheel speed?

Sensor number 2 does not exist so you can ignore that. You say it has only been exhibiting this behaviour for a couple of weeks and the waterpump was changed in April, pretty much the same time, the weather got a lot hotter between the two dates. Other than the guage wavering what you describe to me is normal for a properly functioning system with the water pump sleeve and auxiliary pump, the guage would indeed read 90°c after 5 minutes driving in todays temperatures even though it is not a true reading, that it used to read 80° should be a big red flag, your engine was not getting up to temperature before, either a faulty or disconnected sliding sleeve or the previous pump was one without the system. I would say your engine is now behaving as it was designed and it wasn't before.

Awesome car Lego Jet, I like the window reflectors - some people have no taste! Only kidding Yogi! Where did you source them from?

Grab the driveshaft that is in the videos and check for movement. Try twisting the shaft both ways, and pulling/pushing, in/out, up and down. Thanks, AG Falco

That Cleveley EV mobile servicing are going to be busy, looking at that pollen filter video and their other videos they actually do what needs to be done, such as stripping and cleaning brakes. If what happened at your Vauxhall dealer is anything to go by then a lot of dealers are lagging way behind. I think there is still a lot of mystery to EVs for a lot of mechanics. In fact you don’t need a lot of training to understand the basics of what not to touch and the systems in place to isolate the high voltage, and then be capable of safely doing service work.

Dealership servicing on any car is a rip off (I know as I used to work as a technician at franchised dealers). Brake fluid change is ballcocks anyway, it should be tested and if it’s ok, it’s ok. Pollen filter is easy to change and 2 years is probably a reasonable comprise on time/mileage. Everything else is a visual check as per what is done on ice vehicles plus looking at any visible high voltage cables, which could only suffer if externally damaged. The main thing the dealer can actually do is plug it into Skodas mothership and update the software. Dealers are going to want some way of making back the money they will be forced to spend on ev training and equipment. Personally I check tyre tread and pressures every month and top up the washers but realise not every one can or will do this.

Just buy some EIbach springs as the stance of the car is very much improved.

I understand, it certainly has done something and it will have added some stiffness in the fore and aft direction, I hope it hasn't added too much stifness where it is undesirable, but as you have said, its an old knackered mounting so nothing to lose and everything to gain, I will definitely consider doing the same next time I have the sumpshield off or if I have to do suspension bushes (I have a creak and groan).

I put a start-stop memory module - brilliant as it keeps the start stop switched off, or on, depending on how u left it, and u still have the option to use it at ur command. No errors. No warnings. No tricking. Beats permanently disabling it by coding it out.

Cleaning can also be done with pressure washing. No harsh chemicals involved. EDIT: Disclaimer->As far as I know.

The dealer will have removed during the PDI as there is a recall on them due to the possibility that the cover can come loose, drop onto the turbo and catch fire. In theory they are revising the part to overcome this so you 'should' get a revised part fitted at some stage but probably best to check with the supplying dealer (Rainworth / Bickertons?)

Yep, the oil supplier recommended simply depends on the deal which is done corporately by VW/Skoda. It was Shell on the 2006 and 2011 Superbs we owned. That deal extends to the bulk oil purchased by the authorised dealers so they get an advantageous purchase price and I'd presume upon which VW then get an annual sales rebate.

OK, thanks! The oil I got is up to the VW 504 00 / 507 00, Porsche C30 o MB-Approval 229.31/229.53 specs, so I should be good. But, within oils with that spec, what am I best served with then? I got a sticker on the car saying Skoda recommends Catrol, but then I know for a fact they use cheaper oil (hopefully within spec!)

Happy for bowth of you. for many other waiting game continius

VIN added as a separate field and updated where applicable You can create your own filter by clicking the filter icon called "Filter Views". It's second last.

😅 Sounds like the rooms in those dodgy hotels that Ukrainian girls frequent 😂😂😂

Gz mate 👍 Just wondering why 2-3 weeks for transport to Slovenia? It doesn’t need to board a ship 😁

Probably close to the point the lower radiator hose attaches to the radiator. Engine code and the exact fault code might help to confirm. If engine code is a term you're not familiar with, see the relevant link in my signature. If you can't see my signature, view on a computer instead of a phone. I'm not convinced that the rapidity of the gauge reaching 90°C indicates a fault though. Modern engines have partitioned cooling systems deliberately designed to hasten warm-up. Much more actively so than just a thermostat keeping the radiator out of circuit for a while.

Hi, This message is caused by the level sensor in the tank, do you know if the replacement tank is 100% working? If the fault isn't with the tank, then it could be an issue with the wiring that needs to be checked.

I'll see if I can find it, Skoda Global posted it on facebook I am sure

My globe flips from white to red randomly but it doesn't bother me as the App and whole Connect systems serves no useful purpose for me.

Picked up car today and well happy with it. Added a couple of wee bits and changed the hood emblem. 235 days to get here- all the best to those still waiting 😬

Supercharger can’t really be upgraded , but the turbo charger can be changed for a OEM hybrid one from RTMG (other companies exist but these guys are the best at the 1.4 twincharger)

I am contacting the garage tomorrow who have worked on it, they mentioned last time I saw them, 4something was rattling, and I asked and they said the only thing they could see was the undermount engine cover/shield which was loose. They said they had screwed another bolt as one was missing. They didn't say anything else about the heatshield, if they botchily secured the heatshield on. It has happened within the ownership.

I’ve always just used hammerite,, just 2 coats with an artist’s brush but as yours are Brembo I’d powder coat em,, my last 4 cars have always been done in hammerite smooth finish,, focus 1.8 mk2.5 blue —- calliper red Mondeo st mk3 performance blue—-calliper red focus st170 mk1.5 imperial blue—calliper red focus 1.8 mk1.5 panther black— calliper yellow never had any problems with the paint coming off and unless you take it on a track the brakes don’t get super hot and scorch that was the ST170🤣🤣 Oh wheel colour is Audi Daytona Grey on ST150 alloys

Top work. I found it most intersting. Thanks for doing this.

This may be of some use to expand on @vindaloo's point...

I purchased my Yeti at the end of May 2013 so it's now exactly 9 years old with nearly 70,000 miles. I'm sure mine is one of the oldest Yetis still in original ownership, may well be the oldest where it is still the main (and only) family car and probably the oldest where there is a complete and comprehensive record of expenditure over its life. So I thought the more nerdy forum members might be interested in my real world cost of ownership. The purchase price in May 2013 was £21,353 including a few options such as the sunroof, metallic paint, the auto-parking feature (a novelty I've never used in anger so not something I'd repeat - with hindsight the electric seat would have been a better investment) and extending the warranty to five years. Second hand prices are a bid mad at the moment so for my purposes I've estimated it's current value at a nice round £5353 to give £16,000 depreciation over 9 years. The subsequent running costs have been Insurance £ 2,420.84 MOT £ 290.00 Petrol £ 9,234.89 Repair £ 1,285.45 Service £ 2,297.30 Sundries £ 1,557.92 Tax £ 1,420.00 Tyres £ 936.46 Total £ 19,442.86 "Sundries" are costs I chose to incur - sun blinds, roof bars, extended warranties, breakdown cover etc. Average fuel consumption over the 9 years has been 41.1 mpg with a maximum of 47.1mpg My average running costs including all of the above and depreciation have been £3938/year (52p/mile) and without the sundries £3765 per year (49p/mile). And of course I still have around £5,000 equity in the car. Just out of interest I looked at what my costs would have been if I'd been able to have a PCP contract over this length of time (essentially paying only for fuel and insurance) which would have been £1295/year (17p/mile) plus of course the PCP charges. With nine years of ownership and no thought yet to change unsurprisingly I've been extremely pleased with the car - it's been reliable, it's versatile and my only real complaint might be that a bit more time and money might have been spent on making the seats a bit more comfortable but it would be nit-picking really.

The responibility of the garage does not stop with whatever warranty they offer. By law they are responsible for any fault that happens during the 6 months. I would speak with the dealer owner and mention the issues and also quote the Consumer Rights Act 2015. If they use the 'we do not have repair facilities on site' then they are by law obligated to pay for your car to be repaired at a garage. If not I would mention Citizens Advice and also small claims court. You would win a claim easily but you have to offer them the chance to rectify it or reject it for a full refund in the first 28 days.

Just a quick update - I did nothing but three weeks later and it seems to have sorted itself - the globe is now white as expected...

I don't believe either of these are available as caliper paint.

I plan to replace the voided TCA rear bushes with non voided ones - when the need/time comes, but that is on a Polo 1.2TSI, many many years back, when people had just started to need to replace the console bushes in their Fabia/Polo/Ibizas, someone, probably Ross, issued a cautionary warning concerning NVH issues when fitting the Cupra non voided console bushes to cars with TDI engines, I got them fitted to my wife's 2002 Polo with the 1.4 75PS BBY petrol engine when the original voided console bushes ended up getting torn, and everything was positive absolutely no extra unwanted NVH issues, just sorted out console bushes along with much increased feeling from steering inputs.