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A couple from this afternoon. -13C

Mines rattier than that and you don't have to worry about blanking your number plate because it's public domain information, it's designed to be seen even at night.

If you really want to use the LEDs, you need this kind of thing... https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/384658397972?

Various daily drive photos. The Merc is sold so this is our only car for now. Been to Taranaki once more with the car loaded up.

Mine rattles more than an old Leyland bus when really cold. Figured it’s just the nature of everything being harder and more brittle due to the cold. No flex in anything. It stops when the temps creep up again.

This is the other end of the scale from Loftys project Daffodil 🤗 Ahh well at least I don't have to blank the number plate with the mixture of grime soot and motorway salt. Definitely the rattiest Fabia on this forum by a long way - I promise I will get her cleaned over Santa time !

'They would say that wouldn't they!'. Because they are not interested. Did they have it on a ramp? 30 minutes of a drive is long enough, then get them to find out what is wrong with the car. Even pull into a tyre and exhaust centre and ask them to have a look. Then make your excuses and leave.

Well Iam supprised its that easy but it does look to have worked. I guess the only way to solve that problem is to change the tank!!

@nta16 Not to start an argument that the subject often brings on, but windchill might cool stuff quicker, but it will not bring the coolant lower than the air temperature. But the antifreeze which changes the freezing point of H20 does need to be the correct ratio / strength for when the ambient temp is below 0*oC and to how low it goes.

Yes i agree the left parking sensor looks like it has been pushed in. Very good spot! I did not notice that. I wonder if it would be worth sending an AA or RAC mechanic around to check the engine bay etc. I am not that mechanically minded.

varooom, it looks like I will have to get a better multi-meter as I don't trust the household one that I have, I see that I might need it to re-encode the battery, I do have VCDS lite.

You may want to try and record a small video clip, or some audio of what you are experiencing. You also could purchase a cheap multimeter to check battery Voltage, it will be useful for several more car/house jobs. I would have been surprised if the coolant was frozen, that has very low temperature protection unless it was drained and filled with just water (unlikely) It sounds to me as if there is not enough energy getting to the starter motor, so that the motor is not engaging correctly with the flywheel. Have you checked the car's earth points are all ok? Several to choose from and could be why it refuses to start even with jump pack. You could also need a scan with the likes of VCDS to see if there is some big issue with a control module, list in the forum is available.

@EP90 There are some SSP (learning documents) that mention about battery drain where they say about say moving in slow moving traffic may not be enough to keep up with the power demand. So fits in with what you say about driving in cold using additional loading. Definitely will drain, and increase revs/disable items for protection. Hopefully when you get chance to check at garage you will know better what is going on with battery/mirror. Seems someone put these online, feel free to have a read (more on the site for anyone to take a read) https://procarmanuals.com/vag-ssp-504-vehicle-batteries/

@toot service was just fluids and look see/test drive. I checked the air filter and looks ok. @Vroooom I think your diagnosis fits my latest symptoms. Bitter cold, foggy morning, car started but seemed slower to turn over. Drove to town with lights, heater, air con, back window heater on. The air con started turning itself off. I could turn it back on for a few minutes then it would go off. etc. Revs are still at 1000. Anyway a battery check plus wing mirror at my garage a a couple of days. Thanks everyone..

It’s -11c atm but I’m in a nice warm living room with the fire going nicely, cheeky little bottle of red Vino Collapso being consumed. Going back out is deffo above and beyond. Will have a look tomorrow, though due to be warmer and snowing.

Hi, here is an update from the parking sensor issue I've been expeiencing. When the fault first occured 3 weeks ago, I got a long beep when selecting reverse and a message on the infotainment saying that park pilot was unavailable. I did the usual things of rebooting the infotainment, removing the fuse for the infotainment, disconnecting the battery for 10 mins, spraying the sensors with WD40 etc etc. As none of these things worked, I spoke to a local VW/Audi specialist and although he is cheaper than a main stealer, I couldn't justify the cost of a garage. As previously mentioned, I took the plunge and got the full system scanner and found the fault. It is also very important to note that the correct sensor is purchased as I found out (which delayed the time taken to solve the issue). I fitted the sensor this morning and it didn't fix the problem and gave another fault code. I scratched my head for a couple of minutes and decided to unplug the sensor and turn it around 180 degrees and that sorted the the issue. As you have probably gathered by now, some sensors, if not all, can be connected the wrong way round! I have attached 2 photos, one of the original fault code and one of the second fault code when the plug was fitted incorrectly. The system is now back up and running at a financial cost of £105 for the scanner and £12 for a sensor. The mechanic said I could easily be looking at £200 (depending on the fault) which is why I bought the scanner and I now have that for any future issues which I have no doubt that there will be more. The scanner will also register new batteries (if needed), carry out a forced DPF regen and so much more. I hope this helps 🤞

OK folks, my first time doing a guide. The Briskoda community has provided me a load of help over the years, so I thought I'd give something back. The crank case one way breather valve attaches to the crank case at the upper right hand side of the engine. It connects to a rubber pipe which runs to the underside of, and connects to the air intake hose. From what I understand, its purpose is to provide ventilation to the crank case to remove unwanted gasses which can build up. The valve is one way to stop air returning up the air intake and possibly into the cabin via the engine bay. The tell tale for failure seems to be an oily smell working its way into the cabin (due to the one way valve not being one way any more), or oily fumes from the car while running. Checking the engine bay, you're looking to inspect below the throttle valve cover pressure pipe (the black pipe to the right of the plastic 'TSI' engine cover), near the front. You'll know if its gone as the valev will be broken and there will be a misting of engine oil surrounding the area. The new valve can be ordered from Skoda direct or via Ebay - search for 'Skoda 1.2 TSI breather valve' and plenty of listings will appear. To fit: you'll need a Torx T30 bit, flat head screwdriver, a jug for some boiling water and some rags to tidy up mess. Start by using your T30 bit to remove the two screws at the bottom of the black pressure pipe. The black cover, which the torx screws hold down, lifts off once the screws are removed. Keep the screws safe. Remove the electric plug at the rear of the pressure pipe, along with the wire to the left of it which should be clipped onto the pressure pipe. The rubber breather hose at the front right of the pipe should also be removed. There is a sneaky wee plastic black pipe on the underside of the pressure pipe as well, this should slide out downwards. Once those parts are all removed from the pressure pipe, you are looking for two clips at either side of the pipe, at the very top, below where you removed the plug. Move them both out to the side, away from the pipe and pull the pressure pipe upwards - it takes a bit of force. Once it comes off, pull the pipe out from the other end (at the turbo). You can see where the oil has sprayed out from the crank case and onto the underside of the pressure pipe, as well as around the top of the engine. This is how the oily smell emanates from the engine bay as earlier described. Use your rags/cloths to clean it up. Now you can get a closer look at the offending breather valve - or whats left of it. The rubber grommet that the valve fits into (or did, before it broke) is needing removed. Use your flat head screwdriver, or other blunt, pointy object, to remove the grommet. The reason for removal of the grommet is to (hopefully) remove the remnants of the old valve. I don't suggest just pushing the new valve into the grommet without removing the old bits. If there are bits left in it, it is best to not push it into the engine where they are not meant to be. Check inside the crank case hole to see if any bit linger which can be fished out. As you can see, some gibblets of the old one remained in my grommet, the rest must have been swallowed up by the engine- ho hum! Clean out the grommet as best as you can with rags and then dump into your jug/cup of boiling or very hot water - it helps soften it up for putting back in place later. The valve itself is a straight pull off of the rubber connecting pipe - just a friction fit. So pull it out of the pipe and discard. Push fit the new valve onto the rubber hose you just disconnected the old one from. Fish out your rubber grommet from the hot water and push back into its hole on the crank case cover, being careful not to split or push in too far. If the grommet is knackered, new ones can be ordered from Skoda or Ebay. Once the grommet is back in its place, push the new valve into it. I used some of the water as a lubricant to ease it in. Then, just make sure the valve and grommet are snug and it is a case of putting everything back together. Re-attach the pressure pipe by putting the bottom part in first, then pushing the top part back down, making sure both clips fully engage (click). Connect the plug at the top of the pressure pipe back onto the pressure pipe. Place the black plate back to its original position and tighten the torx screws up (7nm tightness). Finally; clip the rubber pipe to the lower right side and the wire for the plug to the top left . Remember the sneaky wee plastic pipe under the pressure pipe at the top - clip that back in too to avoid any chaffing. That's the job done. Don't fret too much if the remnants of the old valve are not in the grommet. Chances are they fell inside the case and were chewed up long ago, hopefully not damaging anything. From what I gather the crank case air intake valve breaking is a common fault, so I hope the guide assists someone.

Hi all, Two weeks ago my girlfriend purchased another car. It wasn’t economically responsible to drive a Golf TDI anymore, so she wanted a smaller car to save on everything. Do we bought this little guy: it is a 2013 Skoda Citigo 1.0 MPI 60bhp. Weird spec with no front fogs, electric mirrors. But with seat heating, airconditioning and cruise control. But the lady is happy! The first mods were installed yesterday: - Facelift BCM (2017 - 1S0937090F) - Facelift cluster/speedometer - Facelift radio This is the actual interior now: All works! Component Protection is paired with the cluster, just like the original facelift Citigo’s got. Next parts are on their way too, facelift taillights: Now in need for a leather wrapped steering wheel. Plastic is ok, but it is a bit worn.

As far as I recall, the flashing frequency on this car isn't actually changed by a bulb being busted, it does make the telltale LED in the cluster flash faster (I think?) and the ticking noise double-speed to alert you though. The indicators are all powered by one two-channel solid-state device on the PCB of the onboard supply control unit. All three bulbs on each side are wired in parallel with each other, so the overall parallel resistance of each three is what is monitored. I have to agree that is an utterly pointless mod though.

We will cross that bridge once you find answer.

An update on my order for an Octavia vRS TSi 245 Manual Estate in Race Blue with Pano roof, towbar prep and spare wheel. Car was ordered on 30th March 22, built in week 48 and is currently en route to the German docks. Dealer expects it early January which is 3 months ahead of schedule.

I have had that a few times and it cannot be snow or sub-zero temperatures since that does not occur here. And it cannot be the heated wheel since that is not even offered in this country. Sometimes it seems to be due to wet weather. It clears itself after a while. But the bonging sound that accompanies it is very distracting, as are the intermittent messages that take over the main display.

I trust the guy in there been a family friend for a long time. It has been sat for the last 3 months. See what happens tomoz and go from there.

I have never turned mine off you get used to it you don’t have to fight with it just turn like you would if a car was coming towards you it turns off. If you are going in a straight line and it reads a white or tar line hold in opposite direction it turns off a second or just indicate as that turns it off as well I like it on motorways as it reminds you to indicate

It seems some of the 150’s have an issue with high oil consumption. A friend has a 2017 model with high oil consumption. Destroyed two DPF’s in a short space of time. The burnt oil was clogging the DPF. He had to replace the engine in the end.

225/69, Dunlop winter sports I think, I only use these in Winter season. Now in sixth winter and still plenty of tread left. ( I bought them for Yeti in 2017

I believe that an updated expansion tank is available, with modified sensor probes. And without Silicat

Not that I could find I'm afraid, it is a real bugger to access as is the cabin filter when you come to change it 🙁

You could do a check via an online reporting company such as carVertical: https://www.carvertical.com/gb/sample-report in the first instance as they may have some info cheaper than a full AA/RAC mechanical inspection. Not saying you shouldn't get a professional to take a look, but if you see something drastic in an online report, it may save you the money on an inspector if you want to walk away. Hope everything checks out - they're great cars and I've been really impressed with mine 😀

Are your headlights wet inside also? That might be another one for the list of to do's.

If you need it, there's a basic guide

Maybe check the VCDS owners list and map to see who is close

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. You shouldn't need a new battery but you might it depends on the use of the vehicle and if yours is still an EFB one from factory or previous owner(s), garage/Dealership swaps ot use and abuse.. If you're getting a new battery get an AGM* and get a good quality one, varooom is good with such advice. * ETA: I'm not sure now that it's always best to go from EFB to AGM, depends on circumstances

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Wow, what wind-chill factor have you got where you're driving or the car is parked! At 4 years you'd hope the antifreeze element of the coolant was still working, you can test it anyway, with traditional coolant it used to be the antifreeze part that lasted longer than the other parts but as VW keep changing their minds on which coolants they insist on you'll have to look on the plastic expansion er, vessel(?), to see which G?? (?) yours might be, for its specs.

Been using this forum since June actually but never got around becoming a proper member. Anyway I'm from Estonia and I own a octavia 2 vrs. Had it for about a year now.

It's my light bar, W-Light Wave 500

Yes. If your car isn't cursed with screened prongs, when the engine is COLD:- Open the spherical expansion bottle and look in. You should see 2 metallic prongs descending into the coolant. Get a big (say 5mm) flat blade screwdriver and scrape it down each prong 2 or three times. This should stop the fault recurring until it gets cold at the end of next year.

Cheers; I wasn't even dead certain what language that was. Even if I presumed French, is it French French, Swiss French or Walloon?

Welcome to the forum. Stay away from Independents with a DQ381 for early servicing of them. Or even to recommended servicing / oil changes. That is until VW Group get their act together and accept there might be snagging issues or fundamental design or manufacturing faults. Until they extend the warranty until maybe 80,000 or 100,000 miles, 8 years or even 10 years on these DSG's. *Have a Main Dealer / Authorised Repairer service it, get that sort of protection of it being 'VW Trained Technicians or fitters' if things go wrong.* They are not much more expensive than an Independent who might have the gear and an idea, they might have the gear and little idea but they know a man / woman that should have, and a hot line to VW, Skoda, Audi, SEAT Engineers. So have Serviced to Manufacturers Recommendations, Schedule or Guidelines, even Spec. Or early if you want at a Main Dealership. That is until they maybe want to reconsider those Schedules, Guidelines, Recommendations, Suggestions, Guessing. http://briskoda.net/forums/topic/508475-gearbox-dq381-in-emergency-mode see post by @varooom That one is a DQ381. Octavia not a Kodiaq. But the issues are starting to appear with them in what ever VW Group models. Maybe few and far between, but early days, years, miles/km's. People only come to forums,when issues etc etc. Well that is often the only way people find out that 'They do not all do that' or 'Should not all do that', or that people tell Main Dealership staff so that nobody can say 'Never heard of that before', or never seen that. Out of warranty so get out your wallet.

I reside on a hill. So I do the change just after the climb. I park the car, secure the right wheel with large stones, lift the car's front left, slide a container under the car, slide myself, undo the oil plug and go for a 5 o'clock tea. 🫖 Many people can complete a university education but only some of them gain the ability to think like a true engineer. The mystery continues... Pronunciation sounds cute too. 20W-50 is also a common for trucks.

If it's a Mk1 it'll be manual climate control. @fvincent974 - try turning it on to the setting marked '4' to see if it works, it may be the resistor pack. Otherwise, the fan in the HVAC system will be kaput, I reckon.

In the year 2001 a sudden snowfall hit our territory while returning to Athens, unfortunately i had no wheel winter chains, i was following 2 cars that they had and they were ''opening the path'' but soon they made distance and i was left alone in the middle of a mountain root. It was a matter of time for the wheels to start spinning and after few minutes the car stopped. Couldn't move even half of meter, i tried again but failed. Around me everything was quiet, no cell phone signal, no move from cars from other direction (neither behind me) and the darkness was about 1 hour away, one of the most scariest moments. My wife was start praying and complaining that we will be left alone for all night there-what are we going to do now-it's my fault-there is no one to help us-we will freeze to death etc. I get down and make few steps away, i was "in the middle of nowhere" at the worst spot of the mountain, took some breaths and in a moment of desperation i ask for God to help me and i turned to my car (full stock at that time) and i said for first time something to her: ''If you manage to get us out from this situation i make a promise to take care of you more that it should be and i will update you". I was full rely on my Felicia that time, i had no choices at all so i touched the dashboard, made my finger Cross, start the car and while my wife was crying engage the 1st gear, suddenly the car start rolling! NO spinning! With first gear and extremely low speed i was capable to step in the snow and after many minutes (seemed like a century to me) i was capable to pass the top of the mountain and take the downhill. On my right side i could see abandoned cars covered with light snow and on my left drivers which were preparing their cars for the uphill installing winter chains, i was the only car that was rolling the downhill, the night was approaching fast and after some time manage to arrive at a spot with clear asphalt with no snow. The nightmare was over and since that afternoon i call my Felicia as ''Trusty" and of course i will NEVER-EVER make a journey at Winter without have seen the weather forecast and the proper winter equipment with me. With some bad experiences from the Army (cold-snow-mud-freeze air) plus the above story the Winter ''adventures'' are not from me and especially alone.

Please note - I am not a mechanic or expert in anything. Drain the oil out as hot/warm as possible/sensible. When it gets to the drips pour say around 250ml of fresh clean new warmed oil in and let it drain straight out as a mini flush. Synthetic oils generally handle the heat (as in your climb) and the cold better and protect for longer so unless the synthetic oils is more than twice the price of the ELF Evolution or Castrol GTX 20W50 LPG as you are changing it once instead of twice overall it is costing you no more money. Like all oils some synthetics are better than others but as with many items there are diminishing returns as you go up in quality and price but if you are prepared to buy in advance you may be able to take advantage of lower prices at certain times or circumstances.

Before making any decision, Curious to know details of that discussion. Who was it with, the cleaner? The difference between 225/45/19 and 225/55/19 is 6.16% ! Who advised that as an alternative? If you're going to change from 225/45/19 then basically you're looking at different alloys. Your best 18" alternative is 225/50/18 which equates to an 8J 18 ET45 alloys such as the Braga. ( have a look on ebay or breakers ) Your best 17" alternative is 225/55/17 which equates to a 7J 17 ET45 alloy such as Ratikon or Triton. There will obviously be 3rd party alternatives. That's constructive point 1. Constructive point 2 is did they check they have the tyres in stock / that they were able to get them? I ordered Cross Climate 2 SUV tyres for my Kodiaq this morning and booked the car in for Thur 15th to have them fitted. Got a call this afternoon... "Sorry but we've just contacted our supplier and it'll be February before they're delivered to us".

Dont worry about letting other folk down ,when your having such a hard time as your going through concentrate on getting to the good side again ,ime sure everyone who knows you will understand ,be a tad selfish and look after you ,your good friends and colleagues will be happier to see you happy,good luck mate ,i know there just words but ive been in a couple of deep holes myself ,but time friends and talking really do help get you out 👍

Just had the pleasure of this ridiculous problem in my car. I was getting the 'replace key battery' message a few weeks ago so swapped it out for a new Duracell. All fine until we drove to a Christmas event this afternoon (temperature of 1 degree), after parking up the car wouldn't lock and the dash was saying 'no key detected', I hadn't received any warnings prior to this so the new battery has lasted a few weeks. Cue much faffing with accessing the barrel lock and figuring out how to start the car with a dead key battery (the answer is to put the key in the cup holder(!), how does this work? presumably the key has some sort of backup that can be detected at very close range?!). Upon returning home found we had no spare batteries so I have removed the battery and done the trick of warming it between my hands and blowing on it(!), hey presto the battery has come back to life (for now). So it looks like as well as being fussy about the type of battery (I understand Panasonic is preferred) they also don't like the cold. What a ridiculous situation, I replaced the battery maybe 3 times in 8 years in our MkIII. All this for keyless entry (that I don' want) and keyless ignition (that I also don't want). Why do car manufacturers insist on fixing problems that don't exist with badly implemented solutions?

Almost certain intake port and valve carbon build up.

Where in Aus are you, I have the APR 1.5, if local im sure we could sort it out.

I am concerned that not only are Red cars none existant in this thread, but I can't see any Scouts Either ! Helpfull I can fix both issues with a few Pics of Mine. Karoq Scouts are a dying bread now that Skoda have stopped producing them.... 😕