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I was talking just now to a couple with not a clue about EV,s and they are traveling lots and paying Tesco Podpoint prices to charge and only to 80% any time because their Vauxhall is set to only charge to 80%. They have no home charger, no CPS account and no idea how to use them. This kind of thing is not unusual and this is costing then double what driving a petrol would cost them.

Correct it, so the BMS knows what new battery the muppets at Halfrauds have fitted.

A couple from yesterday's visit to Attenborough nature reserve........

I find it really hard to believe that deleting any error code at all would invalidate the warranty. I've been deleting a bunch of intermittent communication bus error codes and the likes every once in a while to tidy everything up when scanning. Dealer hasn't mentioned anything during visits...

I think your problem is you went to Halfords.

10,s of thousands of smaller hubs like these in Dundee are required around the UK in the next 5 years if the Government are to continue with the plan for Net Zero. Turbine and Solar & Storage Batteries at or near essential, and public toilets. So these are required well as Schools, Hospitals and many public building needing replaced because of their building materials, & the NEW promised hospitals built. What a wonderful chance for full employment in manufacturing and construction, training and much more. Putting the GREAT back into Britain.

If you have altered coding in another Module then that may be your problem. Modules not shutting down when the ignition is turned off. Its time for you to measure the current drawn from the battery when everything is turned off.

Of course the elephant in the room is the smart charging system - the system will attempt to recover energy by using regenerative charging as a default, you may not see the alternator kicking in in some circumstances unless you are recording battery state over a reasonable period.

On my 1.9 TDi,which has a broadly similar arrangement,it was the support spindle that was worn where it swivels to keep the belt tension correct,letting the pulley go off line a touch.I simply replaced the whole thing.Job done.

You should without a doubt input the correct info regarding the battery, the important 2 bits of information you need to worry about are the AH rating, is it now 65, 69 or 75AH? And the serial number, the maker's name is not important at all.

True, when I filled mine with diesel the other day £73ish my trip computer was telling me that if I was doing longish trip without stop/start like you get in towns I had a range of 680 miles, when they can replicate that with EVs with a recharge time of just 20-30 minutes we might just have a chance of changing the world.

I think it also depends how quickly it needs to slow your car down. If it can manage with just engine braking it does just that, but if a quicker slowing down is required it does use the brakes as well and the brake lights do come on. Not sure on the older Superb model like the 2016 you have but on my 2023 MY I can see on the infotainment system whether my brake lights are on or off so I've checked while driving along a few times, during a gentle slowing down no brake lights but when a quicker deceleration is required and you can feel the brakes being applied the brake lights are shown as being on.

Fuses fitted to cars are of the slow blow type. They are fundamentally there to protect the wiring loom, not necessarily the wiring of items plugged into aux sockets designed in the 1950's. A socket designed for a cigarette lighter with inconsistent connection force and incompatible or daft contact material (chrome plated steel). Spring loaded floppy domed pin. A slow blow fuse can tolerate 2x its rated current for minutes. Several years ago on a winter continental trip in my mk1 Alhambra, we used a plug in kettle for coffee and soup. After several jug fulls it wasn't long before smoke and a horrible cable burning smell started coming from the plug. The 10 or 15A fuse didn't blow. A lot of plug in devices that use that cigarette lighter socket have thin leads, for flexibilty, cost etc. A lot dont have strain relief and even have coaxial type cable. People pull and twist cables to remove plugs and this invariably leads to cable damage. A fuse in the plug would be a good idea, but never seen that. I'm not aware this it's major issue apart from the "bloody thing isn't working" but there is a theoretical potential for an electrical fire. Having witnessed it myself

I had the problem of a leaking sump plug on my 2018 1.4tsi Superb noticed after its 2nd service. Returned to dealer who checked (with video) the plug was tightened correctly (30Nm). It was. So they changed the sump plug (with its captive washer). Still it leaked. So they consulted "Skoda parts technical". They said fit an "squashable washer". Which they did, and continue to do so at each oil change, fixing the leak. Why did it leak? Well on the available evidence, the leaking sump plugs obviously did not sit square with the sealing face. So possibly, They fitted the wrong plug (quite possibly) see pic below Or The dealer had a bad batch of sump plugs badly machined or captive washer thickness variation or head seat not correct geometry. Or The sump thread has been damaged at some point. Or something is not right with the machined face on the sump. It did leave the factory ok, and the 1st oil change was OK with no leak. Or not enough to drip on the driveway. Part nos (CZEA engine, probably used on other engines) According to the dealer they finally fitted Sump plug N90288901 Crush Washer N0138157 Hope this helps

I'm sorry to have to say this, but you do have to consider either a dealer's service centre or, as @ordshas said, an auto electrical shop. This has been going now far too long and there is a real possibility that it could cost you far more in the long by trying to clutch at straws, you clearly need someone trained in auto electrics to look at it for you.

But how they treat customers is up to them. All I can say is that my local Skoda main dealer was more than fair with me - and it must have cost them £ hundred(s) to go above excellent customer service. Don't tar all dealers with the same brush!

Booked my next annual service with a local independent garage. For the past six years, the only people to service my car is the dealer that sold it to me. I can't fault their work (Marshall's Croydon) but it is a 30-minute drive there, two train rides and a 45-minute drive home. My local garage has a good reputation, I have used them on previous vehicles, and the Big Red Bus is no longer under warranty. Oh yeah, the local garage is a two-minute walk from home. It actually takes longer to drive the car there! My first service with them will be a minor service and MOT, but I have asked that they give the car a very good look over. I want to keep the most reliable car I've ever owned in top condition at least until Mayor Khan makes it obsolete.

Hi, After a recent update to the infotainment system, when I start the car the volume seems to get stuck on the lowest level and I can't seem to change it using the scroll wheel on the steering wheel or on the infotainment system itself. After 15 mins or so, it then starts to work again? Not sure if anyone else is having the same issue? SE L, Amundsen infotainment system

You could try 215/65R16 on 6.5Jx16 ET43 5/112 57.1 steel rims. 6.5Jx16 ET43 5/112 57.1 is similar to the standard 6Jx16 ET43 5/112 57.1 Karoq rims but 0.5" wider. This would help with your requirement for good handling. 215/65R16 is commonly used instead of 215/60R16 in some countries that have poor roads, on cars such as the Yeti and Karoq. Body roll is controlled by the springs and anti-roll bars, not the tyres. 215/65R16 won't have quite as much lateral grip through the corners in summer conditions compared to the lower profile 215/50R18. However, Michelin CrossClimate are excellent through the colder winter months, so you will actually have more grip in cold weather than your current Goodyear UHP (Ultra High Performance) summer tyres. In the UK, we aren't limited to Skoda approved tyre and rim sizes. That's for some EU countries (such as France and Germany) where they can only fit tyre and rim combinations that are listed on the car's CoC (Certificate of Conformity). Michelin CrossClimate 2 215/65R16 98H (Euro label B B 71dB) (3PMSF symbol) (all-season) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m139b0s8008p208549/Michelin_Tyres_All_Season_Car_Michelin_Cross_Climate_2_215_65_R16_98H_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_B_Wet_Grip%3A_B_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_71dB Alcar 9187 6.5Jx16 ET43 5/112 57.1 steel rim (from Audi A3) https://www.oponeo.pl/felga-stalowa/alcar-kfz-9187#23311315 Another option is 215/60R17 on 6.5Jx17 ET38 5/112 57.1 steel rims from the Kodiaq. Michelin CrossClimate 2 215/60R17 96H (Euro label C B 71dB) (3PMSF symbol) (all-season) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m140b0s8016p208542/Michelin_Tyres_All_Season_Car_Michelin_Cross_Climate_2_215_60_R17_96H_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_C_Wet_Grip%3A_B_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_71dB Alcar 9021 6.5Jx17 ET38 5/112 57.1 steel rim (from Kodiaq) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/details?vehicleId=672860434273997936&rimCode=ALCAR9021 Here's a photo of someone who changed 225/50R17 to 235/55R17 on their Yeti. The one downside that he mentioned was that the 235/55R17 wheels felt heavier than the narrower 215/65R16 wheels that he used for winter. For less weight, he could have used 235/60R16 instead of 235/55R17, as 16" rims tend to weigh less than 17" rims. Yeti with 225/50R17 (top photo) and 235/55R17 (bottom photo) Vredestein Quatrac 6 235/60R16 100H (Euro label C B 71dB) (3PMSF symbol) (all-season) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m139b0s12008p201646/Vredestein_Tyres_All_Season_Car_Vredestein_Quatrac_6_235_60_R16_100H_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_C_Wet_Grip%3A_B_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_71dB Alcar 9257 7Jx16 ET45 5/112 57.1 steel rim (from Yeti) https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/details?vehicleId=182363349315490928&rimCode=ALCAR9257

I use 225/55 R17 in the summer and 215/60 R16 in winter. Very good feeling with both. Even when (occasionally) I push it in manual on a windy road uphill, close to where I live.

Hi there, As I don't particilarily want to disturb the fittings again. I have attached a pic of a similar type of bulb. I would add that the Ledperf ones have orange leds around the bulb, not yellow like the non-canbus bulb I've pictured, There are also orange leds in the projector end too. The new bulbs are much brighter and illuminate instantly and are a much better quality all round. As I said I'm well pleased with finally finding suitable decent replacements. Well reccommended, if your prepared to spend a bit of money mate.

I think the et (offset) is 51. That and the width won't affect the diameter. Tyre size on top of the wheel diameter is the important bits to watch. 225/40/18 is the correct size. That's 225mm wide with a diameter of 18 inch. The 40 is a percentage of the width. If you go wider then you will get a bigger diameter tyre if you stick to 40 profile. That tyre size should fit 7-8.5 wide rims. Dammit @Carlston! I can't compete with that!!

Exactly. As for believe, and actual, and leasing / renting a car and needing to get places with a car with a 30-50 kWh battery you might well go to 98% when you want, maybe with AC and not DC, but driving actual distances you might well want more than 80 miles before the next charge. If you only go short distances, charge regularly and do not need more than maybe 80 miles or 60 miles in cold weather then 80% is plenty.

The engine braking is actually very subtle in my 1.5 TSI DSG, probably due to a fact they wanted to achieve a very low rolling resistance overall. So when using ACC the car will actually use brakes a lot.

Only charging to 80% is probably better for extending the life of the battery pack - but not going to help their achievable range.

You say you saw him doing coding, did he actually code or did he just plug it in and check something out? If he coded something, did he remember to tell the tool to "do it" or "save it" and then more importantly, did he then switch off and switch on again and check the coding was correct? I still have no faith that simply swapping the battery for what he claims is the "right one" is going to cure your issues with the battery going flat. You have other underlying problems with your electrics, and it desperately needs an expert to thoroughly go through the system and find the real problem.

That's normal. The LEDs fitted to a MK3 Octavia can only move up/down and can't change the beam pattern or direction. Maybe start by posting an autoscan so we can see what modules your car has, how they are configured and any fault codes you might have. It might also help if you say what you've been changing in 4B too

The coils not firing is a typical sign of a crank position sensor problem it’s literally in the fault code I can’t believe a mechanic would be so careless as to not replace it , the crank position sensor tells the ecu when to fire the coils and inject fuel so without that working correctly the ecu will do neither throwing the parts bin at it suggests to me a mechanic who doesn’t know there trade

@toot, Correct! I was told by Marshall Skoda (on the phone several time) that the car was serviced with 0W20 even though I gave them my car details and reg... Tbh maybe the car had correctly been serviced with 0W30 or 5W30 per the invoice, but at the time I did not get any Google response to 'Castrol EDGE LL111 0' (Why? Could have been simpler!) And so contacted the people who last serviced the car to ensure I buy the right engine oil to top up...and so here we are with the car having been topped up with 1L of 0W20... And to ensure peace of mind going to a local mechanic later today to do oil change whilst contemplating avoiding Marshall Skoda for the next car servicing

Yep, one of the first things I did, as the original reversing lamps were useless and did the blinkers at the same time.

Haha I've got that to look forward* to Oh aye, the thread hasn't fully finished yet, as the car remains unfinished. I may still document a little, but it won't be my own car anymore, but I also won't be away from it either.

Sweet will see if they will give a decent offer for my old octavia

Chinese battery firms on slow running and multiple battery plants planned all over Europe, one here is Somerset and several, even two massive one planned by the Chinese in US to meet US origin rules and keep those EV grants, like the ones we use to get in the UK but do not any more hence the lagging UK car industry and being behind on the target to net zero.

I think more and more Yeti owners are going to keep their cars in fine fettle. There is a late model one advertised on a well known car website today for £21299. I asked my other half to guess the price (she loves her older Yeti in a similar spec) and she said £15k...

As I've said for a long time, get used to the VC as it will be (probably is already) far far cheaper to produce than analogue dials. Offered as an option to trap the early adopters, it will be standard in the next few years. I prefer analogue but could live with the VC. What would be harder for me to live with is the fugly "infotainment" screen that looks like someone has stuck an ipad on top of the dash. Who in their right mind thinks this is an improvement on the existing display?

VW has just present the MK4 twin sister Passat Mk9: Sorry that's in German. However, here is what I've caught and may be also in the Superb Mk4. They confirm Passat 9 and Superb 4 will be both built in Bratislava. The sides and especially both front and rear doors are the same on both cars. Note: The Passat will only exist in Estate version. It's Cx value is 0.25 whereas it was 0.3 on Passat Mk8 The total length is 4.92m / width is 1.85. Boot volume is 690l and jumps to 1900l when back seats are folded (they compare it to Mercedes E-Class in Estate version which offers 1830l) The back seats still offer much room for rear passenger legs. The guy is 6'5" tall to give you an idea. Passat has a 12.9" center screen, which can rise to 15" screen in option. Note: The latter one regroups the functions which Škoda has decided to put in the 3 knobs. I don't know whether this is still tue with the 12.9" screen... Passat also has the gear lever moved to the driving wheel, which implies the wipers functions are now regrouped with the left stalk usually only dedicated to lights and directions. It seems most probable that Superb Mk4 will offer the same architecture... It will have the same engines as the Superb Mk4 (Hybrid, Gasoline, Diesel, with same power) all fitted with DSG7 (just as Škoda Mk4). The 'iV version should be 100km autonomy in electric mode. The TDI150 should have a 1400km autonomy. The DCC is 2.0 with dual valves to enable much finer settings between comfort and 'sport' The 'iV' version will be 2200 kg 😱! Regarding prices, the guys reports that he specced the current Passat Mk8 in basic version for € 38k on VW configurator, whereas VW announces the Mk9 will be € 39k in its basic version and will be however quite well equipped. I hope the Superb Mk4 won't have any higher price increase...

No it’s not. 90% of them have never seen the inside of a bodyshop, let alone worked in one. They buy a franchise, get a few weeks “training” and they’re qualified. And the big boys dictate the standard of the work, the customer does not, with clauses like “as long as the repair cannot be identified by a lay person from 3 metres, it’s a pass” or words to that effect. Also, they’re worked on outside, even worked on when it’s raining without putting up a gazebo (I saw that this week in my road - another triumph of Chipsaway (“Like it never happened” my ass!) and with that the paint can get contaminated with dust, water et Al. They overcook the paint to save time, which means the outside of the paint dries but the inside remains tacky and that can cause crazing and shrinkage. And boy do they overcharge too. Yeah, a slight scuff on a bumper which hasn’t damaged the plastic is one thing; in regards to the subject of the OP post, forget it.

Mercedes EV coming off the Freemantle Highway gets dunked: As said, and noted in the comments, it didn't look particularly damaged, so I wonder why this one, and not other EV's that are being offloaded. Gaz

Would have done if out and about. It seemed to be announced yesterday morning just as the zero pricing went live.

Simon, seems you are right now, but. I could update maps online before and SIM card really had only the functions for hotspot. Now, they have completely changed it. Probably too many people would download 32 GB maps over the esim at Skoda`s cost. Only explanation.

It is a sort of self taper type threaded screw for screwing into a plastic part, as you can see from the threads showing in that picture. Its part number is N 106 112 01 oval head panel screw 6 X 22 which just means that it is nominally 6mm in diameter and the threaded section is 22mm.

I'm just rounding out this thread by saying I eventually got Hankook 4S2 fitted. No dealer / online supplier could get me 4 Hankooks, the best any could do was 3. These were obviously the only three in the country in my size. I did cast about a bit for alternatives and came close to getting Bridgestone WeatherControls as I had these on my previous big car (Karoq) and found them to be very good. The Bridgestones were a good price from Costco, but logistics / life got in the way of me getting to Costco for a few weeks. I got fed up and asked local fitter to check for Hankook availability again, hey presto plenty of stock but in a warehouse somewhere, so Hankook must have imported a load. I've just had them fitted this morning and they look good on, not quite as fat as the Bridgestone Ecopia they replace but actually seem to sit on the rim better. A few miles show very little in handling differences (once I set the tyre pressures correctly!) so happy with my choice so far. I'm expecting a bit of hit in fuel consumption, but that is not significant given the mileage this little car does. Winter is a long way off yet to really test them but I'm happy to have replaced the disintegrating tyres.

Not all the wheels will fit, the smaller models (Fabia, Scala, Kamiq) use 100mm PCD (bolt spacing), wheels for these won't fit the 112mm spaced bolts of the Karoq. You need wheels with 57.1mm centre bore (most VW group cars are), 5 bolt 112 PCD and an ET of about 43-45 ( this is offset, how far out the bolt plate is from being in line with middle of wheel), being couple of mm out is not much if that is all you can find. Look at VW, Audi, Seat and Skoda, can always change centre cap badges

If its a long job, it's quicker to take out the drivers seat and work on your back with a carpet/cushion for protection-mine is a LH drive - not sure if its the same on a UK version

Is the aux socket not just a simple analogue jack socket? Maybe a bad contact - try spraying into it with Electrolube or similar

Latest Updated Speedcams - December, 2022. It's been a long while but at last here's the latest update of my customised version of EUR Speedcams ( December, 2022). They consist of the full EUROPE speed cameras which I've split up into four consolidated poi categories i.e. Fixed Speedcams, Average Speedcams, Variable Speedcams and Redlight Speedcams. They come supplied with my own preferred personal choice of icons, shown below, to match each of the speedcam categories. Remember to Install them as I explained in the first post in this thread i.e. after extracting the zip file remember to open the newly extracted folder and place only the PersonalPOI folder and metainfo2.txt file onto your sd card ( Please Note: a usb stick will not work! ). Also, please remember to select/tick the relevant newly added poi categories and the poi audible warning alert in your infotainment map menu settings after performing the update or they will not display on your map or audibly alert you. Hope you all enjoy them! EUR Speedcams December, 2022.zip *** A brief update*** For all those who have asked - I am still continuing to update these files but since the Covid situation I have found it difficult to get hold of a good FREE reliable updated database. I continually regularly check the forums and when I come across a suitable database I use some software to check the cameras in my area before I decide whether to convert and compile them as it does take a bit of time and effort to accomplish this. For instance, some average speedcams were installed about 3 years ago in my area but no database has yet reflected this change. It's therefore been pointless doing any updates. Thankfully, this new updated database has finally recognised them so perhaps things are starting to get back to normal. Rest assured though these files will be updated as and when I come across any further suitable databases.

All 18" rims on the Karoq are 7J, and that includes the 7Jx18 ET45 Braga alloys. Karoq alloy rims https://eshop.skoda-auto.cz/en_CZ/alloy-wheels/c/alloyWheels Changing 215/50R18 to 225/50R18 raises the gearing by about 1.5%. As the standard speedometer will over-read by about 5% your speedometer will over-read by about 3.5% once the tyre size change has been made. However, google maps now has a GPS option so it's always worth checking. The Karoq does have a 225/40R19 tyre size option for 2WD cars and 225/45R19 for 4WD cars (as you can see on wheel-size.com), so fitting the 225/50R18 tyre size won't increase the car's performance compared to those tyre sizes. However, if you want a cheap and comfortable tyre size, 215/60R17 might be worth a look. You could fit this size to steel or alloy 6.5Jx17 ET38 Kodiaq rims. Compared to 215/50R18, 215/60R17 will raise the gearing by about 2.6%. 6.5Jx17 ET38 5/112 57.1 steel rims from the Kodiaq https://www.mytyres.co.uk/rims/rim-selector ETRTO lists a 6J to 8J rim size range for the 225/50R18 tyre size, with 7J highlighted because that's the normal rim width for this size tyre. ETRTO approved rim widths 225/50 6.0-7.0-8.0 wheel-size.com https://www.wheel-size.com/size/skoda/karoq/2019/#trim-15tsi-eudm-148

I ride on 18s in the summer (stock wheels that came with my sportline) and on 17s in the winter I notice a difference in ride comfort when switching between the two (softer ride on 17" . bumps arent as pronounced as on 18" wheels) Since I value comfort over aesthetics, I would never go with 19" wheels..

ever since I bought the karoq i stopped hitting more than 70 mph. max i would have done is 75 ish. the tyres are so sensitive to the road imperfections that its impossible to get a smooth ride on the motorway. Where as, i could easily hit 78 on my previous i30 without any jolts in the cabin.

Heko wind deflectors will stop water coming in, it'll also allow you to crack the window in the rain and keep dry, make sure you get a 5 door one as 3 door will be too long https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/152301049582