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What's not to like? Great colour, heated front screen and looks like Canton, which is ok despite all the negative comment I have seen. I had a 19 reg L&I 272 so can speak from experience. DCC makes it less floaty. They are smooth and quick. 32-34 MPG in summer and 40 Mpg if driven at legal limits on the motorway. You are aware of usual service requirements. Check the black plastic sunroof surround roof panel for cracks. Mine cracked and had to be replaced under warranty cost around £1000. The front discs look a bit lipped, they are not particularly cheap to replace. Check the coolant expansion bottle water level..mine dropped several times, I gave up trying to get the dealer to investigate beyond filling it up repeatedly, even though it was under warranty! Hopefully this example is flawless.

The Greenline with 16" wheels on 205/55 has one of the highest side-wall profiles of all Yeti's, the diameter is about the same as Yeti's with 17" wheels. The lowering is done in the suspension.

Sorted this out - did a “Restore To Factory Settings” which unlinks the car to the user accounts. Then logged back in / reconnected the user accounts to the car and immediately started working once I has re-assigned each key to the individual accounts. All seating and driving data retained as I guess it’s stored in the Cloud.

So this is my haldex at 29.5k miles... Overall roughly how I expected it to be (i.e. not too bad but probably needed doing) so I'll probably continue to do it at around every 30k miles.

That's another part of it that annoys me. I find the ignition cylinder lock a convenient place for the key to be kept whilst in the car, I don't have loads of other keys in with it like some do, but each to their own, I see no benefits only possible additional future issues, but I'm not overkeen on remotes, a keyblade in a door cylinder lock is fine for me. 🙃

Nitrogen filling is basically a scam. It is a fact that the oxygen molecules are slightly smaller than the nitrogen molecules, and will leak out faster. But it is such a minute difference that in practical terms it is negligable. And that is it in terms of facts. The basic laws of physics and chemistry mean that nitrogen doesn't heat up faster or slower than air, or that there is a difference in compressibility, therefore comfort is not improved or made worse.Any other difference claimed is that it will prevent degradation of the inside of the tyre, but tyres will wear out and degrade on the outside faster than inside. Nitrogen fill is require on aircraft tyres annd is used on Formula 1 tyre. Fr anything else you are paying for no benefit and money is wasted. Try reading about it on a recognised site like AA or RAC, not a tyre company site. In fact here is what one of the tyre suppliers, Protyre, say. 'In our experience, the benefits of inflating tyres with nitrogen are so imperceptible that justifying the inconvenience and expense can be hard to do. It is generally more worthwhile investing in a tyre pressure gauge or visiting your local Protyre garage who can perform a free tyre check for you and advise on the correct tyre pressures for your vehicle.'

based on the part number in ur image - 565035021C, u have a MIB2.5 unit - these r NOT capable of wireless Android Auto or CarPlay, no matter the firmware update. Only MIB3 units r capable of wireless. if u want wireless AA, i suggest u get an add-on dongle, like AAWireless. i have been using one of these for many years now. see image below. its great. if u want to update ur firmware - i've made a how-to for it for when i updated my unit. - Firmware Update Guide v1.0.pdf

Bottom tab is through that “slot”, yours probably needs the spring unwinding anticlockwise half a turn (looking down) to release some coil tension in order to pull the flat shut rather than push open?

Glorious again this evening, although rain tomorrow 😬

Changed the original disc and pads on my Combi yesterday. Originals from factory had done 36k miles. No significant wear to discs, but badly corroded and scored across approx 40% of braking area. Pads still had plenty of friction material left. Used Brembo (coated) discs and pads, with VCDS (new to this software) to retract EPB. Connected battery charger first as most articles I had read said do that. Cycled EPB on and then off. Ran full auto-scan first and stored results. Went into ABS module, checked no brake errors and ran Started brake lining change (or something like that). Error messages on dash about EPC and rear alert etc. Turned ignition off. Started on drivers side - piston pressed back in easily. Caliper easy to remove. Old disc a little stuck but a few taps with lump hammer and it soon moved. Disc comes off without removing caliper carrier!! Makes changing so easy. These are 312mm vented. After refitting with new disc and pads I pressed the brake pedal to hold wheel whilst torqueing wheel bolts. When I then tried in VCDS to end lining procedure it wouldnt - error values out of range. Decided not to panic and changed nearside disc and pads (again very easy). Pressed brake pedal to toque wheel bolts. In VCDS ran full scan again, Went into ABS module, checked errors codes, one for being in lining change mode. Went into basic setting to run end lining change. It did it! Went back to clear error code, and now everything works as it should. All very easy to do.

Hi everyone, when you own a Superb iV MJ 20 and above and have Canton as option, you may have discovered that it is not quite the best sound system around. The basic problem with this system is that the new designed sub for hybrid is not correctly fitted into the sound setting, Don't know exactly the reason where the error happened, but the sub setting is shifted in phase so it cancels out the bass between 40 and 50 Hz. (picture 3) Skoda/Canton is not aware of the problem and is not interested. Tried several times. No chance. A solution is to reverse the polarity of the subwoofer connector. The outer and the inner pair of wires have to change the places like this 1 2 3 4 | | | | 4 3 2 1 I made some adapters for plug and play usage, but you can do the switch by opening the connector and exchange the position of the wires. The other solution is to remove the "noses" on the connector and plug it turned upside down. After this modify the settings like in last 2 pictures, and enjoy the sound. Before changing the EQ choose preset "Classic" and turn surround completely off. Best bass performance is achieved when setting focus to driver and fader moved to the front and one click to the right. PS: this solition is working already in >60 cars up to newest production 02/22 estate and limousine, so yes, your car is affected and yes, it will improve the sound a lot. PPS: if interested in a plug n play connector - please PM. Unfortunately international shipping (from Germany) is quite expensive. PPPS: this is definitely not a solution for non hybrid versions

Infotainment is only good for dab. The maps aren't updated anymore so AA is the way to go. Get a wireless dongle to avoid your phone getting hot with the lousy 10w usb port. As HappySam said, you can unlock the sd card check and use any card for the maps

I took the car after 5 hours from upgrade and no reboot, also went to a shopping center and parked the car underground and after close the car also the Home and Menu icon switched off. Once back home, no reboot during the way, but icon Home and Menu once again switched on with car closed. It seems this happen when I left the car in a parking with some lights around at the moment of closure, but it's only my assumption. Another interesting point of analysis could be the Display hardware/software unit number: mine is H44/2088 and I found people on an Italian telegram channel who solved their problem once substituted with higher number units, but don't know if could be considered right. Tomorrow I'll have a long day usage with the car and weather forecast will be very warm/hot, so I'll test also the temperature failures encountered in the past days and common for many users.

Where I'd start is by looking at the connections to the fuse of, and the wiring to the ABS return flow pump. If you share your VIN with me in a private message I can probably research this a little for you. Whereabouts in the world are you?

@Gaz Remind the Sales Executive or tell them i suggested they remind their Dealers Principal that a Skoda Approved Used Car sells at a premium. So if Service items have been missed at 3 years or 4 years they should be costing it in to their preparation costs so that the Warranty is actually valid as per the terms on Servicing. No way at a 6 year service should the new owner be having to cough up for missed and overdue servicing. A look at the Air Filter might give an indication if the service has included it being checked, even if the ridiculous interval is supposed to be at 6 years. If they want all the money, then a fair profit is expected, but not just punting a car that looks good but needs consumables replaced and some more expensive parts.

Your question includes the answer you are looking for?

Going back to the list at the top, I had Pirelli Powergy's on the last Superb and they were not particularly impressive. Just about got 20,000 out of them on the front when the Michelin's they replaced did 30,000.

👍👍

Hers is 2018, but the information I have is that they started fitting GPF to the 1.0 TSI sometime in 2017.

Bump for @Warrior193

Correct.

Yes, it’s a main dealer in Morecambe. My car is a 2018 Karoq 2 TDI SE 4 x 4 DSG E. engine no. DFFA020777.

Known bug, many people have it, including myself. I don't bother as long as it does not drain battery.

In my case, it is not about the first cold start, this phenomenon always occurs, even after the engine has warmed up as much as possible.

I have Primacy 4 S1s on mine and find them better than the Eco-contacts that they replaced. They're rated as A, A, 72db. If I were buying a new set again, I'd go for 245 45 18 as the Primacy 4 is rated at 68db in that size (with a small penalty in terms of a B rating for fuel consumption). I'd prefer the wider size mainly to gain a little in terms of rim protection. If you're just buying two, there's a Volvo optimised version (VO) rated at 70db in the original size. They're not a noisy tyre by any means but on rough asphalt, every little helps.

EA211, 1.0TSI 110 CZHC - yes, with GPF - my information is that GPF was fitted from 2017.

@Warrior193 Is that a 1.0 TSI from before the have a GPF or after? (Gasoline Particulate Filter.)

I would add that SWMBOs Fabia 1.0TSI 110 only exhibits this assumed anti-stall behaviour on first start from cold - simply controlled by anticipating and using brake pedal.

Forum guidelines state we can't have content that "promotes illegal activity or infringes on the legal rights of others" so until you have a genuine cable, I won't be able to help... Ross-tech do great work so if you find their product useful, you really should buy a genuine version

I don't know, but I can recommend that you use microfiber cloths and an interior cleaner like Carpro Inner QD.

And besides: No one, no one has ever written that his Fabia 1.0TSI (or another company car with exactly this engine) does NOT behave like that, so I think (after the behavior of two cars) that this type is simply like that. @thamestrader And what specific Mitsubishi is it?

So went ahead and fired up the car yesterday and warmed it up: Undid the fill bolt and a tiny bit did come out, but honestly, not enough for me to have worried, but at least that doubt's out of the window. So went and reinstalled the wiper arms: The windscreen has a few marks, which I believe are used to align the wiper arms, so just had them aligned to be parallel, got the retaining nuts down, then wiped the arms a few times, before tightening to 21Nm. The workshop manual states there's a 4mm leeway so lots of room for error and the wipe pattern looks ok. The display is mentioning low wiper fluid level, so my deionised water for testing is seeing good use. Still not sure about the dribbling right nozzle though. Need to find the wiper arm covers and pop those on. Managed to play around with the coding for the 5F entertainment unit, to enable baseplate and wireless charger for said baseplate: Which then makes this appear when a phone is on the charger, so that's sorted. I'm struggling with a few issues with the Steering module, some errors about the Cruise Control. I also can't seem to find anywhere to have the heated steering wheel button on the steering wheel itself working. Can't tell at this stage if its the gateway, or the clock spring that replaces the previous one. Could even be the replacement indicator stalks. Sod's law, I'll have to revert and tackle one thing at a time. I mess around with cars primarily to get away from Software Engineering, but I guess these days it's coming back. So started to get the right side wheel arch liner back on, with mudflap: This was the one that was previously broken, and the bottom screw was not aligned to the captive nut on the sill, so I guess the damaged mudflap implies some misalignment of the sill. Just used brute force to get it in, worry about the sill later (as you're all well aware). Less drama on the other side: I'm at the point where I've run out of the washers, so more than 50 are needed for all the wheel liners! Will order some more. Last bit: Got the front undertray fitted. This is kind of dry fitted for now as I'll need to align it all with the wheel liners and what not. So once additional washers arrive, I can sort out the rest of the front liners, then probably get the front wheels possibly. Raining most of Friday though, so on comes the weekend. I'll need to figure out how best to relay whatever VCDS stuff I get up to, as I feel that could be the rest of the month before MoT time. Maintenance: £2293.89 Upgrades: £1332.92 Miscellaneous: £697.20

Thanks. So what is your budget? I ask as ultimately, this drives what you're going to purchase. If you're looking at £150 a unit, there'd be no point in us suggesting £200 units. I wanted all-season tyres so I knew I'd be looking at least £250 a unit.

And that's all done and she's now registered and back on the road. OH MY GOD what a car it is to drive. So bloody fast to the speed limit. Now, the next things on the to do list are the suitcase muffler (middle one), upgrade the head unit and get a rear camera installed. Oh, and a dash cam as the drivers here in Brisbane are bloody ridiculous.

Same as numskull said, the way VAG works is software updates are only required to fix faults, if you haven’t got any apparent faults then there is generally no need to update.

Welcome to Briskoda! What is the problem you’re trying to fix? If there isn’t one, why do you want to update it?

I have an SE with halogen lights. Osram Nightbreakers plus proper alignment has made a lot of difference as they tend to be aligned very low from the factory. I did contemplate replacing the lights with Osram H7 LEDs that are road legal and certified in other countries but haven't actually been that bothered now the OE Halogens are properly set up.

Thanks for reply Warrier193. No, I was not aware of revs being limited on stationary vehicle. That would explain no other error codes apart from the 2 relating to airbags. Good news for a change which I will take any day. Regarding coding I am not sure. I deleted fault codes only for them to reappear with the information I gave in my original post.

It seems the convenience function (holding the lock or unlock button) only works if the one touch works on all windows. If one of them is off the function won't work. So you have to reset it the way people described before: all the way down and hold the button for a couple of secs then up and the same. This solved the one touch for me and after it the key fob magic came back as well.

Thank you for the response, I will try that.

Anywhere with a Hunter rig and a reputation.

Latest version Osram NightBreakers; they'll only put range up by about 10% but that's the way lights work.

More wildlife at the local reservoir......

Hello everyone, let me introduce James The Superb, our Superb Estate L&K 206/280, colour Raspberry Red. Ordered 08/2023 and delivered 12/2023. Immediately after the delivery I got it wrapped in Xpel PPF to protect the paint as well as underbody rust protected with Dinitrol. It also has a clear protective film applied on the windshield. I'd like to keep it long term so I decided to spend this additional money for the protection (already got a few nasty rocks hit the windshield on the motorway and so far it's holding). After the warranty expires I am looking into a few upgrades like ECU & TCU tune and Bilstein shocks.

A few from this evening, including a fluffy Robin 🙂

Turned out lovely once the rain stopped!

You can flatten the beam so you won't dazzle when driving on the wrong side of the road with this guide. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/280456-european-headlight-adjustment-octy-ii-fl-halogen-lights/

That's true. But looking at rest of your post and way how you reacted, sorry to say, but you are oversensitive. Also driving at night, there's quite a lot of cars with matrix LED also were i live and yes, i can see some people are using matrix's, but no, i'm not dazzled. There's a thin line between noticing matrix high beam, and being dazzled. If what you say would be truth, matrix LED would never be allowed to be used on public roads, at least in EU. But they are.

IIRC Auto Hold needs the car to have EPB, which the Octavia III doesn't have.