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Well hello all! Bit the bullet a few weeks ago and chopped a Karoq for a 2024 Octavia Estate SEL 1.5 e-tec. Have to say we are incredibly impressed. Also the colour Petrol blue… love it! In some lights it’s blue other lights green!! It’s running 1940 software so hopefully OTA to a later version over time. Probs biased being on here but it’s a good looking estate, only made better in Sportline or vRS guise but that was out of budget / not needed!! (I keep telling myself)

The oil's performance as a coolant is a function of its specific heat capacity, and I doubt that would change very much between different oil grades. Thermal stability is a function of the oil's chemistry, not its viscosity, so clever chemistry can create a thermally stable low viscosity oil. Consider also that modern engines are designed to keep the engine temperature within a pretty tight range regardless of load or environmental conditions. As long as the cooling system is suitably rated to deal with the heat load from the engine, the oil is unlikely to get too hot and break down.

Spotted a Crow and Heron going at it on Saturday............. YouCut_20240513_072441755.mp4

Octavia makes good foreground... .

Is the new battery actually charged? Have you checked it with a multi meter? No reason fitting a new one would stop it from cranking. The other errors should clear with a drive, as mentioned above.

Not true in terms of combustion and hence emissions, petrol engine have to run an enriched mixture for several miles after a cold start whereas a diesel engine runs a normal stochiometric ratio as soon as compression ignition is sustained without glowplug intervention, a few seconds in most cases, its why diesels will always beat the pants of petrol engines for economy on short cold start urban journeys which are very bad for the planet using either fuel. "As we know".......... some know different, its definitely true that a diesel engine which has far less thermal losses will take longer to get warmth from the heater but even that is massively better since the VAG sliding sleeve water pumps and auxiliary coolant circuits, on the coldest of days I could drive 8 miles in my MK1 Octavia and only get full heat and normal operating temperature after giving it the beans up a hill, the Yeti its about 2 miles and is putting out significant heat after 1 mile. Yes emissions will be higher until the Cat and/or DPF reach operating temperature but I doubt there is any significant difference between the fuels in that regard and the emissions system on the petrol engine cannot operate until the cold start enrichment has ceased and the engine is running at Lambda 1. Your EV's have no such problems and are as clean on a 25m drive as on a 250km one.

You do not need to, the proof that it is working is that your car has always started in the morning even when it set off on the previous journey with 12.2v. Buy a plug in voltmeter (cigarette lighter socket) and you will see the charging voltage peak during braking and over-run conditions, as long as you havn't foolishly manually charged the battery again beforehand, I have a feeling that what you will observe from monitoring the battery (mis)management may only add to your current anxiety.

You might be able to get a car body shop to repair it, ask at a dealer for a price, then an independent, then a body shop. See what comes out cheapest.

Nice, thanks for this. I was thinking I may just go for something like this https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125267633436?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=hvhrslfzts2&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=QaUPJCYzS9e&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

2015 Skoda rapid spaceback 1.6 tdi 5 forward manual gear car. transmission oil change. didn’t Do anything with power steering cause i have only electrical.

Solution is to use Android Auto or CarPlay, so you don't have to sync.

I never fill with coolant before initial running of a rebuilt engine petrol or diesel.

I’ll answer mate, I hate seeing someone left hanging. However, I won’t be much use as I’ve never heard of that model phone, so I have no idea. Hopefully someone may come along soon to help.

Where are you? I am in North Dorset and I can code for beer money. Are you connecting the charger to both battery terminals? Thanks. AG Falco

How soon after fitting the battery did it stop starting?

Just for completeness here is my method of getting the fuse position right. Sit sideways on the drivers seat and hold up a mirror that reflects the fuse location at the end of the end of the dash. The reflection in the mirror then looks like the diagram for a LHD car, as shown in handbook.

Check that the battery post connections are clean and correctly tightened.

Cardiff Bus has been 100% owned and run directly by Cardiff Council from 1902 right to the present day. The arrowed are the sort of ones I drove in the mid to late 90's EDIT L-R Leyland Lynx, Optare Metrorider , Volvo Aisla (front engined and kin hot in the summer)

Usual suspects would be top mounts/bearing and bottom arms. My front lower arm rear bushes had that much flex in them, they were allowing the arm to make a metallic noise when it moved enough to make contact with the subframe. Most other items should have enough obvious play when checked with a bar or by hand, drop links, heat shields etc.

Just realised I had my rights and lefts mixed up. Found tried a few fuses and no luck, so the motor's dead.

Definitely sounds like a loose bracket or other type of fixing. Did you buy from a dealer?

@Gonzini, the reason I bought the cheap plug in DVM was maybe two fold, first, it lets me see the voltage at a glance as it is at a convenient angle for easy viewing from the driver's seat - and due to its construction, always in that fixed position, and second because having it plugged in at all times avoids the need to have an expensive DMM in the car when out and about and finding a way to make its screen viewable and "awake". Starting with a fully charged battery, I was initially curious to observe that driving up a long hill with moderate engine revs, the displayed battery voltage dropped slowly - then got charged on the overrun on the other side of the hill - it behaviour is pretty understandable when you think about it, and would not necessarily be the same behaviour if starting with an "not topped up with a charger" battery. Another behaviour you might find is, if road traffic is flowing reasonably freely, even when stopping after a 10 miles run in daylight and the heater fan off, auto Stop/Start might not "happen", reason being that the battery is in a "just surviving" charge condition - mind you, that will only work if there has not been any or much accelerating or braking/overrunning. Obviously this will only happen "now and again" - but as I've seen this happening, I thought that I'd mention it to you.

Cannot remember ever seeing one and I car that fugly would stand out. One in 5,000 UK registered cars is a Tarraco, wow. I will look out for them, see if better or worse in the flesh. Looks like they sold 50-ish in 2022 and 2023.... https://www.howrareismycar.co.uk/seat/tarraco/

+1 for buying a cheap plug in DVM, doing that should give you an idea as to how your charging system is operating, I did that a few years ago, and still always have that cheap plug in DVM in whichever car I'm driving - and glance at it frequently!

Yeah it's really odd. It's definitely coming from the front suspension. I purchased some Delphi drop links on the off chance it's them but doubt it is. I'll take for a spin at lunch.

my lad filled up Saturday night, drove the Hawthorns and back, mainly motorway but some 50 mph zones as they are putting in lots of laybys they should have put in the first place of the Smart motorway, 75 mpg showing. perfect weather ie about 20 C and dry. In winter probably looking like about 60 mpg. Still quite good though.

I this scenario I believe they will draw the same current, but will out more light, plus driving the cooling fan. OP should be safe enough

EV emission analysis typically use grid power mix averaged per kWh emission figure, which includes generation. For renewables it is non zero because the figure averages manufacturing and installation across usable lifetime. I wonder if those petrol/diesel emission figures include extraction, refining and transportation of the fuel...... ? If not, why not? Regarding MHEV driving on electric power. It can move short distance at low speed on electric. That's how they get better fuel economy than pure ICE vehicles and that's why all new vehicles really should have this magical addon to help reduce fuel consumption. The manufacturer's response is actually saying where the power comes from. 100% of it comes from ICE burning fossil fuel. It is not saying the vehicle is incapable of moving on battery power.

^^^ That is the figure they came up with for the NEDC but it would never have got Certificated at that for the WLTP / RDE2. & even those are not the real world emissions.

A common failing with modern cars. There are so many diffent types of plastic fixings that its probably quicker to ask at your local Skoda VW dealer they will know the exact type.

@nta16 Here is a Ferrari Dino 246 GTS (restomod) with Koni suspention, what a lovely place for Sport driving. I wish we had routes like this close by.

WTF, even my 2 litre diesel only emits 119 gm/km and you're only talking of 1.6 litre engine.

That 80mpg figure is really only achievable when doing city type of driving, take it on a motorway type of road, say the M4 from the junction of the M25 to the junction with the M5, approx 100miles, on a day when the traffic is flowing freely and you're able to do motorway speeds of 60-70mph and you will not be able to that 80mpg, that is only achievable under the right conditions.

Yes this 1.6 litre naturally aspirated engine linked to a quite small ie 1.2 kWh traction battery does well in urban environment. Nearly 40% of distance in pure EV mode fuel consumption around 55 mpg in quite good, not great, I have seen the Clio with the same engine get much better ie around 80 mpg. What put me off the Arkana etech was Top Gear did sub £40k family car comparison test and in the acceleration the Arkana e-ech was last I think, beaten even by a Berlingo. The 0-62 for the Arkana etech is about 11 seconds compared to 9 seconds for my 1.3 MHEV , put it in manual and use paddles to go though the 7 gears, though I think one would only need the lower 3 to hit 62 mph, it will do over 100 in any of the top 4 gears. Happy with it, only £25K new does pretty much everything well, just glad I do not have to pay full price for fuel in it because if I did it will probably go.

Been quiet about a Fuel Price Escalator for many a year. Fuel Duty has not kept pace with inflation or even close to it. Electricity should get cheaper and cheaper, particularly in the summer and with more North Sea wind coming on line but I expect in winters it will get more expensive and then drop each time for summer as seems to be happen with the UK energy price cap. Q3 2024 looking cheaper but to bounce back in the winter. Of peak tariff of more interest to some of us. https://public.flourish.studio/visualisation/17859750/

Just going through this process, and yes I can confirm there is no room to negotiate anything with the dealer, your contract to purchase the car is solely with Skoda UK, the dealer acts as an agent for Skoda UK. and that's it. Even worse is, if like me you want to PX your existing car, then that is a separate negotiation with the dealer, again I tried to get a decent PX value and they wont give an inch, probably because they make nothing on handling to new vehicle, but I cant be doing with selling privately, so I accepted their PX offer.

Beause people lack the knowledge, intelligence or energy to ask themselves does this BS I have just read for the Nth time seem plausible. And in the case of so called "Canbus compatible" LED bulbs etc it is complete BS. It serves a purpose in scaring people into the hands of the garages though, my now ex UK neighbour I have known for 40 years, he and I always did our own work on our vehicles including fitting multiple towbars and never used garages, when he bought an Octavia 2 facelift (because he was so impressed with the reliability of my MK1) he paid a small fortune to have the towbar and electrics fitted saying that it was no longer a DIY job because all the electrics were Canbus. I was still driving my hyper reliable MK1 and had no knowledge of or contact with Canbus until I bought an Octavia 2, then I learned that it was simply a comms protocol between modules and had nothing to do with the rear lights, also to my surprise my MK1 had Canbus and I had never even been aware, I fitted my own towbar and electrics for around £100, a fraction of what my neighbour had paid, when I looked he had exactly the same set up with the same switching relay as I had, fear from the BS that he had been fed cost him big time.

There is a micro switch in each seat belt stalk they can go faulty. VCDS can switch off the seat belt chimes.

No native support, only via external third party adapter connected to USB

In today’s Telegraph motoring section ‘Ask the Expert’ deals with a question raised by a Karoq owner concerning their panroof not demisting. The expert Alex Robbins says this is down to the poor water-resistant glue that’s used to secure the cassette and this is an issue being reported more and more across the whole VAG. Some owners have apparently received offers of goodwill payments towards replacing the cassette (£2500 😱) but any claim to Customer Services is only likely to be entertained if the car’s been serviced on time and on mileage at a main dealer. If this is such a widespread problem what does it take before VAG will accept it is; is it purely down to the number of owners complaining? As a footnote, AR has said that there are many sunroof specialists around that are fast developing means of repairing the cassette for a fraction of what main dealers are charging

Hi yes, the screen shows the boot open and closed when the boot is open and closed, so I’d assumed that the sensor in the lock was working okay.

The suffix G or J might well work on cars with only two/front electric windows, but obviously an F or H won't do all four on a car that has them.

Before updating, make sure that the SW version of the MIB control unit address 5F corresponds to the affected SW versions SW1788/1803/1804/1806/1810/1889/1896/ 1898/ 1900, otherwise do not update, the MIB control unit may be damaged." The use of otherwise, suggests the exact opposite. As long as you have any of the software versions above, then proceed with the update to 1941.

I have been out of touch on EA888 development and nothing about the Gen 4 engine, so that would have caught me out too. It sounds like an interesting iteration. https://www.greencarcongress.com/2021/10/20211019-evo4.html

Hi, look on the part itself it should have a material identification machined into die <PP>, <PE> along with part no etc. You could also use an old damaged part as a filler. I went through this recently and couldn't find a clean part at dismantlers here in Sibiu. Brought an aftermarket part which was low quality and made via vacuum forming not injection moulded. Welded it myself using old part as filler, solid as repair on front liner.

I have the exact same issue, I managed to find it's the plastic surround of the digital dash. As I've been driving and hearing the little rattle, I was pressing down on various parts of the dash, it wasn't until holding down that plastic surround did it stay silent. On closer inspection that surround is a little bit loose, it moves just a fraction as if some screws are not fully tight, but I can't see anything without stripping stuff back which I'm not keen on (or have any idea to be honest!) So far I've been testing out putting blue back between that surround, and managed to get a silent journey this morning. So will work out a way of adding something less obvious then a piece of blue-tack. Probably end up doing what you've done Peter as the scenario sounds near identical

Should probly remove myself from the list, I picked this up today, 😁

The factory bluetooth module "should" be located under the front passenger seat, if your happy with the bluetooth on the RCD whatever it is, then simply unplug the factory one.

The app used to control the modules is called lotus lantern and it connects straight away to the modules using blue tooth. Once you change the colour it changes on both sets at the same time. As I'm an iPhone user I cant get the app displayed on carplay but was thinking of purchasing this so I could and get wireless carplay as a bonus. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001692528940.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.69003587nN6aNL&algo_pvid=null&algo_expid=null&btsid=0b0a555b16197552979351560e1bb2&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_

Then for the wiring, for the front doors I used the extra grommet to route my cables and for the rears I drilled a hole in the door plug, I know its a bit rough but was eager to get them installed. The supply I was using for the two app controlled modules was the output that controls the footwell lights. Pin 72 on Connector C of the BCM. I found it easier to remove the speakers in the doors as I needed to keep the cables tidy as not to foul on the window mechanism.