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(Disclaimer: no intention to throw this into politics, which I think are a no-no in this forum, so take this lightly and laugh it over*) Oh no "mate", that is not how it works! You DID get it wrong! 😄 Once you bought a ticket into this sinking ship (or derailing train, which you prefer), there is no "getting out easily". Yeah sure, you guys got yourselves "free" from the ballroom, where we all "continentals" keep dancing and singing while the orchestra plays (like in the Titanic), so actually you are now "free" to roam the outer realms of the sinking ship, but .... but ... out there the icy waters and the sharks (yeah, even at these latitudes) wait happily your demise 😬 Would continue this allegory, but I think this sufficient 😟 "You can check out anytime you like But you can never leave" * there is nothing to laugh about, but this is all we got left with ... 🙄

A few from Waddington today. Only managed to see two Red Arrows returning, but did spot a lovely TR6👍 YouCut_20240609_224901859~2.mp4

Finally got round to washing my Superb for a pose.

On a flat road, the difference between coasting vs fuel cutoff can be seen in the deceleration rate. You will decelerate faster with the gear engaged because of the friction & losses in the transmission, thus covering less distance before youd need get back on the gas pedal. Which one is if better depends on the gradient of the road up or down & you are in this mode for so few kms compared to overall driving you will never notice a difference. My guess was coasting was a bit of a gimmick introduced by manufacturers to make people think the car is getting better fuel efficiency. A bit like "regenerative braking" using the alternator. Sounds fancy, but delivers nothing except in lab conditions.

In a nutshell, yes, (unfortunately) this is where we are heading. Same as we 'downsized' engines and other means of transport (think Concorde), same as we lost services without paying lesser fees - think what it was air travel, for one, or the "self-paying cash registers" at supermarkets, same as now you get 80g of a product for the same price before you were getting 100g, and so on. The question is not inevitability, but the timeline and how these things come to fruition. They say if you throw a frog in boiling water you will scald it and will run away, but warm slowly the same water and it will get used to it until ... I do not know, but it has been going on since years so I guess we are all "getting used to it". And no, I do not think this marks the end of hi-performance vehicles, these will continue to be proposed and sold, but the combination of even more restrictive conditions will be the mechanism: speed limits and speed cameras, increased fines, tracking and reporting of driving conditions, and so on. All in the name of safety, to which I hold up a BS sign.

We can permanently fix this for you, and prevent any additional adblue issues. However I’d try get it dealt with via a warranty claim first We’d also be happy to investigate the other issues you’re having

Various manuals available to download here:

That was because the Reds were at the Cosford airshow today.

Do’h yep I meant washer cap, now edited cheers

I am working mainly in 98 RON those days, in purpose for test. Not from any brand or gas station but from a specific (i know it for 30 years) BP which belongs to a network and it's Corporate, not Private (which can change brand after few years). BP Super Unleaded from that gas station has been tested in City traffic-Highway-Mountain roads, more on this in a future topic because i haven't finished all the tests yet, i had to make a summer trip and there is another test that i want to do in winter but i am very optimistic. I have worked with other brands in 95 and with Shell (98 and 100) but i never get the same results. I have succeed 5.4 ltr/100 Km or 52.31 Uk MPG but in Highway, my car is heavier than the stock (noise insulation plus 2 bags with all the necessary stuff permanently in the trunk)

It can depend on which gauge in which car but generally until proven otherwise it is best to take a gauge as being just a gauge rather than an accurate. About 16/17 years ago my wife had a brand new car whereas my car, well some bits of it, were 34 years old at the time, and at least a few of the gauges on my car were more accurate than on her brand new car but my gauges were mechanical and could be calibrated, one was electrical though and was accurate. British engineering rather than German engineering quality. 😁 😄 .

The gauge in car is not accurate. They never are.

The temperature down my way was around 15 degrees today and the first time I tested it after refitting the engine was cold , I will keep an eye on the plastic that the resistor is mounted too and if I get any issues il slacken off the bolts and put a strip of aluminium in there , thanks again for your help 😊

I had the same problem, which was fixed by a software update applied by the dealer. The reason your phone apps are affected too is that CarPlay takes its GPS data from the car to preserve battery life.

Another test is finished this afternoon, i did it in purpose because i wanted to circulate the Radiator Flush in the whole system, for few minutes i opened the heat although the external temperature was high. I drove 41 Km distance, City traffic, about 20 Km Highway, 2 Km Mountain Roads and the rest City traffic till i come home. I ''own'' a photo to @nta16 for the coolant temperature, what the cluster gauge shows (before thermostat) and what the aftermarket gauge shows (between the radiator and the expansion tank). There is a 4 'C difference in indications.

Yes i do a lot on my cars but this job on a car I can’t afford to get wrong seems a bit risky.

So now checked my clock spring. As you can see the terminals are not even touching properly which has resulted in the others getting got and being burnt. it is these that grab the pins for the heater. As the Russian forum suggests my mate has now soldered them and the problem is solved. Heated wheel is back to normal and fully operational. No fault codes. Not pretty but has done the job. @Purpletom Take yours apart and solder it and pretry sure it will solve the issue. Then you can send your febi one back or sell it.

On the return leg of my last trip (1500km), I've used Sport most of the time, thus with no coasting. I've noticed the "live" fuel indicator (which I suspect is displaying/mirroring throttle body position) would go to 0 when downhill using the cut-off (no brakes, no gas), whereas when done in 'Eco' with coasting would read 0.5/0.7 L/100km, which is more or less fuel consumption at idle. So unless some other VAG-trick is at play, from a fuel consumption economy point of view, would make more sense to decelerate using engine cut-off than not disengaging transmission and "coast". Not that I have seen any magical reduction of consumption anyway, so we are splitting hairs here 😝

You just need to unplug the connector from the switch and fit the new Auto one, then feed the light sensor near the front windscreen. There is nothing to code.

Thanks for correcting me. Appreciated 👍

Blimey, the police got here quick! Were you called or just waiting under the bridge?

For cars this age road tax is all the same (currently £190) unless over £40k original list price which adds the luxury car tax (currently £410 per year extra).

Make sure you go with genuine OEM parts; water pump design has been revised and hopefully you shouldn't experience any further issues. Stick with the VAG specialist and make sure they quote for genuine parts.

If a 7 Speed wet clutch DSG / DQ381 the service interval is not every 40,000 miles.

Can't be the software..........The software is extremely robust. ?Where have I heard that before ???????

I can definitely recommend storm development in Aldermaston. A little way from reading and not the cheapest. But their work is excellent. There's also the phirm in Camberley. Not used them but the few chats I've had certainly put them on the list.

... or the wiring and connectors, do NOT assume it has to be a module!!!

No need for adaptation as it's normal behaviour!

I had a mk 3 Fabia as a courtesy car a while back and thought the same... Ok it was probably a low spec model but it seemed quite low rent and 'tinny' and not a patch on the old Mk 1 Fabia we had.

In my experience hesitation in the dsg changes can be due to driving style. If it works fine in manual mode, maybe it's due to how you use the accelerator. In D or S the TCM makes it's decisions on what it thinks the next gear will be needed. If you are accelerating the TCM will prepare the next up gear for selection, If you ease off it will prepare the next gear down. If you change your mind and go for power again there will be a small delay as it switches from the one below to the one above. E,g Coming up behind a car going slower you ease off, then decide to accelerate around it before the downshift happened.

@Winston_Woof have a look at the case of E10 petrol in the UK. The government had not given the support to those producing bio-ethanol in the UK for use in the production of the E10 so it is cheaper to import than it can be produced and sold in the UK. As it is not all E10 in the UK had 10% bio-ethanol in it. Kidoligy is the issue over Green matters with the UK government. Then the issue is using land / crops that can feed people to produce Bioethanol in other world regions. People are starving around the world.

@Winston_Woof What is the benefit of the Synthetic Fuel being bought and imported to the UK which is not such a big place, is it the lower emissions that should be encouraging it being available? If economic to be in the UK then it will be available. The price will not be within the control of the UK, and manufacturing will not be within the UK. The Carbon Capture has got no place so far and will be no place further on in 11 years. The date of the Ban on new ICE cars will need to be put back again and the manufacturers will need to change their planned investments. Oil & Gas and the electricity to produce the petrol and diesel is going to still be there for the liquid fuel needed for the millions of ICE vehicles there will still be in the UK in 2035 and on. So a limit on the Weight & Power / Speed of Passenger Vehicles in the UK and proper testing of emissions from ICE vehicles is just common sense in the UK and then the Hydrogen Production from the surplus electricity that the National Grid can not cope with makes sense. If anyone wants to import or produce Synthetic Fuels and sell them at filling stations then there is nothing to stop them if there are customers to buy it.

Welcome. Why are you looking at one with so many miles, is it very cheap? Servicing should show 10 x oil and filter changes done and a few DSG oil changes and maybe 6 haldex services. So has the Engine & Gearbox been serviced well enough and be fine and used ones can be sourced for a couple of thousands each. What about the rest of the running gear though, the Haldex (AWD) & rear diff? Is the suspension and brakes, steering all good? Is the windscreen OK without loads of chips, maybealready replaced. Has the servicing been done and parts replaced and the car looked after as it piled on the miles @ an average 33,000 a year..

Welcome. Yep, this is the correct forum. Full service history, including the DSG/Haldex. No idea on the indies in your area, but I’m sure a member local to you will be able to help.

Thanks, pulling Fuse 3 just worked for me 😀

The May 2024 brochure says the (presumably facelifted ) vRS hatch is "Coming soon".

https://www.skoda.co.uk/apps/stock/carDetail/GBR2301803702382023?CarType=N&Model=BIAR&Sort=PRICE_SALE&SortDirection=DESC

Similar here, March 2023 at 3 years old and only 20k miles. Outside faces didnt look too bad but shocked at the inner faces. I thought it might have been due to sitting idle for longish periods (like delivered 2 weeks before first 2020 lockdown, long unused spells, and then used only for long weekend trips every 2-3 weeks since) but learnt from this forum it is common at a low mileage for the original discs. replaced with Brembo ( no way was I going to pay the dealer for like for like replacements that might only last another 20k) and they remain smooth and sparkling so far, 10k miles later.

For others with the same problem. I changed the freewheel pulley and now the noise has gone. Pulley was 20 odd quid and the tools 16.

Looks nice enough Has FSH , MOT check is clear, price is about right for a trader, it's at a convenient location for you, vehiclescore is not bad What's there not too like? Personally I would just be arranging a test drive and if you like do the usual due diligence and carry out a HPI & Damage check for a few squid then hand over the dosh and enjoy https://www.dwcarsales.co.uk/used-cars/skoda-octavia-2-0-tfsi-vrs-euro-4-5dr-202405310278824 https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/results?registration=PG06JWZ&checkRecalls=true

So, a friend offered me his alloys, recently refurbished and with 4 brand new Michelin PS4's for £800... I said yes. Genuine Golf Pretoria's. I bought some ST-DZX 12mm hubcentric spacers for the rear and I really like the look. Many thanks to @vrs'burks for the recommendation! The car feels a bit more sprightly on them, I guess because of the new tyres and because they are a bit lighter than the Extremes. I do also know that they are a bit more fragile than stock however most of the roads I drive are reasonably good.

Nice to know there's a way to reset it without having to wait for battery to go flat. I'll remember the fuse 3 next time it happens....there will be a next time 😅

You asked for a photo which answered the question. 😀 Thanks. AG Falco

An update from me ! Replaced the screen digitizer myself , using the YouTube instructions and an eBay UK seller part. I would put my diy skills at about a 6/10 (maybe a 7 on cars!) and it's working a treat ! No dead spots. Definitely worth attempting for £23.

Is that a RAC warranty Platinum Cover? Regardless, you have consumer rights with the seller / Dealer before any need to use the Warranty. They need to fix faults and there is a time scale.

Honey bee

Obviously biased reply as not had any other engines in an Octavia but I've a 2016 SEL 2.0tdi with Dsg Estate. It's effortless to drive with this combo. Loads of torque to overtake even when fully loaded for holidays. £35 road tax now. Gets me over 500 miles per tank without fail as a daily driver on my mix of a and b road travels for work. I rarely get above 50mph most trips. Dpf regens once per tank and has done for 55 k miles of ownership. Now on 103k miles. If going estate, variable boot floor is excellent if was optioned at first sale. Factors to consider: dsg oil change on dq250 is every 40k miles. It's got a lot more expensive in last few years so check it's been done when buying. Check colour of coolant expansion tank on all TDI's you view. It should be bright pink and for full heat on both sides of the car WITHOUT FAIL, if is colder on the DRIVERS side walkaway from that car. This is sign heater matrix is blocked. I have suffered as others across the VAG group from a blocked heater matrix due to silica bag issue. It's well documented on the forum. So have a read. It can be mitigated early but if it goes it's going to cost. Main dealer is £1100+...dash out but can be done cheaper without removing the dash. As soon as I got mine (purchased with 47k miles) I went to religiously getting it serviced at 10k miles without fail. I get oil and filter every 10k and all other filters at every 20k with oil. Love my Octavia for its comfort economy and versatility with big boot. Early MK3 had reputably poor sound system Speakers. My 2016 was a lot better than a 2015 model my colleague had. Smart link that gives Android auto or apple carplay connectivity via a cable to your phone was an "option" on my model and not activated (at cost from dealer). SatNav is not "friendly" interface, and now has lost Traffic alerts/ redirection on route guidance due TMC service it used from FM frequency being turned off by traffic master in 2023. Good luck.👍

Hi all. Just an update. Changing the heater matrix was a very fiddly job,but finally succeeded and happy to say heat has returned to both sides. Also had an issue with the ACC and on inspection turned out to be a broken bracket. Replaced the bracket and initially was throwing an incorrect position sensor code but driving to work and back it suddenly sorted it self out. Next job to give it a service and maybe attempt to replace the gearbox oil.

Latest brochure which includes Superb mk IV and Kodiaq mk II https://www.skoda-auto.com/_doc/6d5c59b3-5d97-451a-ab78-2ef185e6e373 Includes codes, and the tyre sizes.

I'm no expert but having had issues with my heater matrix I have a little experience. Mine was blocked due to the water pump breaking up and corrosion (according to the garage anyway). I changed the heater matrix myself so an easy enough job for a diyer, although I cursed a lot. Anyway, I found I got some heat through the blowers when running very slow but as soon as I turned the fans up the increase in airflow was too much for the matrix to heat up so turned cold - sounds similar to what you describe. I'd suggest changing the heater matrix and see what that does for you, I think it cost me £120 for the matrix but it fixed the issue straight off for me.