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Tried Valet pro "black to the future" on some engine bay plastics today, I'm impressed. Easy on leave 5 minutes and buff off, it will form part of my detailing kit as standard now

Fixed it. I went through the dashboard end fuse box again. Removed every fuse, cleaned the 'legs' and replaced each one several times to clean the fuse panel contacts. Fuse 30 for the lighter sockets was missing so I replaced that one. And that was job done. All the doors lock and all the windows work. Seriously, it wasn't the door wiring!

You need to remove the plastic trim inside the tailgate.

Hello Triff, I can suggest taking a look at the Autophix OM126P.

The MINI has been 3.1 miles a kWh based on the Gross battery 33 kW/h and not the usable over the first and 2nd winter, and 3.9 - 4 miles a kWh is about it in warmer weather but below 20*oC. Hotter than that is better and maybe 4.5 as a max but that is much slower roads. Or coming down from the hills, like Braemar towards the sea and 50 plus miles.

You will find that an Audi A4 has a lot less space in the back seats as well as a smaller boot.

It reminds me of the Tales of the Unexpected intro The Moon and Venus tonight .............

On mine 2022 when display was replaced under warranty there is no any issue. An was on 1969. Now update 1985 via OTA. All okay.

I'm not experiencing this phenomenon, but inevitably conditions and fuels do vary by region. What I can't understand is why those factors would cause a steady deterioration in performance which suddenly improves after servicing, unless very dusty conditions progressively / prematurely clog the air filter. If the performance improves after a service where the air filter hasn't been changed, then it's a bit of a mystery.

I dont know the weight or quality difference but i think it also on your color of choice. i think these are the belatrix although they look different from the sales pix. for me they are perfect with my car and color⁸

I don't know how orthodox my method is, or even if I'll be explaining it clearly enough, but I have a simple Sandisk stick and have arranged music into Folders saved to the root. I've individually named each folder as either a dedicated album name, or a compilation name to contain a selection of tracks. From my PC I just drag the tracks (mp3) to the relevant folders on the stick. I don't try and save an entire album by album name, instead I copy all the tracks from an album into the relevant folder. Everything works fine and plays in the order I've saved them, any relevant track or album data shows on the screen as each track plays. When plugged into the car's C drive (using the innermost of the 2 console sockets) , the infotainment menu recognises the stick as 'Partition 1', I click on that and the list of folders appears on the screen ready to open, I can then choose to either 'play all' or scroll down to specific tracks. I ignore the infotainment's 'album' and 'track' menu, and only open 'partition 1'. Never had any issues with this method.

Do bear in mind the Autophix or any other scan tool particularly at that level doesn't actual diagnosis the issue, more point you in the right direction for checking cross checking or referencing the information it gives, it gives error codes and some live data to work from and check. Sometimes a scan tool will show that a sensor isn't working and it could be that it is the sensor at fault and replacing it resolves the issue but the fault may not at or with the sensor, things like faulty wires/connections could be at fault, or actual fault is elsewhere but shows up at that sensor readings you could be shooting the messenger. £50 is very inexpensive for diagnosis, particularly if it is done well and successfully. I forget what the problem was in the other thread but I can soon find it so I can't think how useful the Autophix or other might be for this problem but you may consider £30 a reasonable invest for future and/or the current issue. The general generic codes can at least often set you on a path. Don't be too concerned about Windows 11, I stayed off it as long as possible but to be fair I can't think of any MS update b*lls-ups with 11 (not that I remember a lot). You don't have to go on to the 'cloud' or use the 'cloud' version of programs. I has to get a new PC last year so I made sure I got one with a CD (dvd) drive and am still on MS Office Pro Plus 2010 when the previous PC was on 2016, no problems (the 2010 Outlook won't let me use Chrome for direct internet connections but that's OK I can get round it and means I can't click a link that's a wrong 'un by mistake to wrong 'uns. At updates I do remove as many apps/programs as I can for the MS stuff I don't want but other than that it doesn't messy me about or get me in the 'cloud' (bloody silly description for what it actually is). I can't get on with that Apple stuff at all.

Project Farm? Thanks. AG Falco

This is a great. Thank you, I've recently bought a mk2 L&k auto and noticed this exact thing. Though it was a little strange but it behaves exactly as you have described. That's actually put my mind at rest a bit 👍

@Barrymoped you can adjust the washer jets. Just pull them up and down with fingers. They probably just lowered them a bit while cleaning them

Another endorsement for Thule wingbars, easy to fit, good instructions, look good and fairly quiet. Not cheap but worth the extra.

Crazy - why didn't I link the two??????????????????????????????? I believe you can do the job without a computer - You can take off the parking brake motor and wind it back manually. I would do it myself but I have two knee replacements and just can't get down that low anymore without pain. Thanks guys

Just had my build week confirmed for next week!

Depends on what you buy, lower level code reader on dealing with generic general codes probably doesn't too much or any updating. Say with a higher level scan tool from the internet you need to make sure it has a program that covers your car, a VW, Europe, Fabia 2015, then users or manufacturer are made aware of an error, omission in the program so it is updated to put things right, this can be an ongoing process (hopefully not like the ones from Microsh1t that replace one problem with several others. Some machines may have 150+ different manufacturers vehicle brands from around the world with all or many of their different models so full updates might be many and fairly frequent, some owners may chose to keep everything up to date even though they have may never heard of the manufacturer let alone ever like to see such a vehicle let only scan one. Other owners only update those for the vehicles they might use the tool on and forget the rest and others too lazy to check for updates before using the tool on a vehicle. Different versions of whole programs may cover the many other systems being added to cars that weren't generally there only a short time back. The general genetic stuff OBD (II, two) stuff goes back decades so isn't a concern here. Only as one example of theOM126P (wonder what the P is for) at £29.59 with coupon, note I have no idea of unit and seller, just an example of listed features, 2023(?) model. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256314894159 And user instructions manual here for more info and ideas on this one make and model. - om126p-scanner-enhanced-manual.pdf

They also say ''ba-de'' (body) or ''sh-ap'' (shop) or ''mourins'' (marines) etc. So for our ''favourite'' as you said: since 60's there is a derogatory word from a Greek to Greek, it's the: ''Americanaki'' and i assure you no-one here dares to wear an american eagle shirt-patch etc or wave an american flag, they don't even say the word ''America'' if you ask them ''where are you come from?'', they only say ''States''.

Yes, there is an automatic adjustment of the VC brightness based on the brightness or otherwise inside the car. There is also a manual adjustment (in my 2020 SEL FE at least) under the menu Car - Settings - Interior - Ambient light. My guess is that the update fitted in yours was set to a different default to the previous.

Hi, welcome. if heater is not the Climatronic type then it might be the very common blower motor resistor packed in (German quality, eh). Loads on stuff on the the internet about it and videos or on this site and it's forums. The location for a Mk3 and hopefully 2017 will be on this forum or a Google search to bring you back here for more info. Prices and suppliers sem to have limited effect on the quality and longevity gamble of getting the part. HTH.

That will get you a code reader that might do other bits. Or you can get these programs that operate off "smart" devices how good they are and how reliable (Elm327(?) and stuff IIRC. Having freeze frame and live data can be very useful. And I was going to put about Warrior193' having a Autophix but would have forgot the number and the P on the end. Some get stuff off these Chinese markets and are very happy with what they get I see it as more of a gamble and never bothered as the VW computer programs are complex and a PITA as it is so I'd not want to upset or mess them up. All scan tools including the very expensive pro ones (thousands of pounds) have pro and cons but generally some of the Chinese (stolen(?) and improved programs) from the likes of Launch, TopDon, etc., and the like look good but they are hundreds not £35. I did like the look of the one Warrior193 has (for its level) I wouldn't mind a play with one. Bear in mind it is only one diagnostic tool and generally if it is correct then only pointing you in the right direction and results should be confirmed and tested and further checking and diagnostics required using other tools, your senses and brain. Before using a scan tool do check the program for your car make, model and year is correct and fully up to date before using the scan tool and that your car battery is in a reasonable state of charge (same for scan tool if appropriate).

Seriously? It would definitely be my first port of call. The HVAC is unlikely to be connected, you can check the compressor shut down code in VCDS, probably low refrigerant pressure.

The temperature dial is not linear or accurate, between 70-110 it will just stay at 90°. You can add Coolant Temperature in the maxidot display which will give you a more representative value. When you have the beginnings of the water pump problem, it will occur shortly after starting the engine after the when the temperature gauge reaches 90. You will suddenly see the temperature gauge moving towards the red & you will get a warning "coolant temperature high" in the maxi dot. In my case it was just a warning and before the temperature exceeded 130deg and entered the red, the water pump would pop open and the warning would disappear. Reading the DTCs will give you a water pump position control error. The water pump sleeve operates once in a engine cycle so as long as the engine stays hot, it won't open or stick again. For me it only happened when I started from cold, drove a few Kms & stopped at the nursery for 10 minutes to drop off the kids. When I returned to the car, drove into the highway then I would get sometimes the temperature warning. If I started from cold and drove directly on the highway I didn't have the problems. There was no coolant leaking or coolant loss it was purely a mechanical error with the sleeve. I drove my car like this for ~4 months because of part availablity and the error occurred once or twice a month but getting slightly more often the longer it went on. I've driven 150k km with the new part without any issues.

Thanks again Superbtwm . yup mine is a switchable pump as has the brown connector as shown in your picture.

😊 Thanks. I have a 12-to-5V transformer from my previous vehicle I might use if it fits inside the cover. Thanks @TheUltraRunner for the link!

I know the other guy has attached a link but do not just run a 12 volt feed from the fuse box, as USB is 5 volts !

That will be because the t-piece that splits the washer feed to the rear window and the reversing camera has split or has come off.

Wonderful!!!!! Thanks!!!!!

I would also recommend Thule - I have the Wingbar EDGE variant - pricey but leave them on permanently and mount my large roof box when required.

More complication of proven reliable simple technology. Vehicle thermostats aside from someone deciding to over-complicate things like above were always expanding wax filled capsules not bi-metallic, very simple, very reliable, easy to diagnose when they did play up.

This is starting to get weird already, because I had the same problem few days ago (30th January). Early in the morning when I started the car the sound was coming from the tablet in the middle instead of the car speakers. I turned the engine off and then back on, but the problem didn't go away. When I later turned the engine off, locked the car and unlocked it a half hour later, this defect was no longer there. From this I can assume that the procedure of registering the car modules to the system only happens when the car is unlocked, and not each time the engine is started. And maybe it's a one-time try or within a very short time.

Roof bars - having had estate cars with roof bars for 30+ years, my opinion is that you can have cheap or good. After many years of cheap, I invested in Thule Wingbar Evo and IMHO, they are brilliantly designed & made. They are quiet, very functional (T-track) and very secure - as they have separate kits for feet, connecters & bars, you can re-use if/when you change vehicle. They are not cheap but I'm happy leaving on the car pretty much all the time as they have minimal impact on fuel efficiency.

Sorry missed the link but a tenner is pretty good if the dealer is charging 50! Alasdair

As your reposting the link I posted earlier - the cost was £10.00. That was June 2024. You need the serial number form the head unit. It took minutes to sort.

Nope. I can chose them to come on at whatever temp VW set or not at all, so in summer that option is off. The behaviour has changed with the latest software update (V3.7 for my car) but I haven't worked it out yet. The seats seem to come on automatically less than before. (much to SWMBO's disgust) EDIT: This is how it works on V3.x software cars which I believe Stonekeeper's is. The 2024-on cars running V4.x or V5.x software may operate differently.

Never ending pain. Timing belt and water pump done. Little drama here, water pump was poor so well I changed it, no clue when it was last changed so atleast I'll be starting from "now". Building all back up. I even took some time to paint up the tinware, it won't last but I tried. So last thing to do, just about was the oil pickup tube. Pulled out the lower gearbox bolts, soaked in oil, odd. Cracked the sump taking it off, typical. Also damaged the rear main seal, if it wasn't leaking before it is now, so needs replaced, which means box off... Again... On the bright side, This engine looks spotless, I'm about 80% sure it's either been refreshed or it's a much lower mileage unit than the vrs was (given the rust on the outside, I'm leaning towards being the original vrs lump was stripped and rebuilt at some point.). Especially how clean the head looked, this is quite the fresh engine atleast. Have a new pickup tube here, though it's not blocked, there is scuzz stuck into the corner so ultimately glad I'm replacing it. Considering I bought this with a blown turbo, it's well I had a look. Been amassing parts to do the rear main seal, and fix what I've broke. -New gearbox bolts from darkside. -New sump -RMS on the way -Rear main seal tool -Solid shifter bracket bushes -New metal coolant pipe on route (not related) -Magnetic sump bung (see blown turbo) Put one of those in the monte on its most recent service (November?) anyway, it's soon due for another so we'll see how much **** it's picked up. Clutch alignment tool I've to get, atleast I'll have it. All things considered, parts are silly cheap so I'm not too worried. And atleast I'm not paying for my own labor.

Yeah the water pump bolts onto the end of the thermostat housing and is driven off a pulley off the end of the balance shaft if I'm remembering correctly. Definitely not driven off the aux belt on the other side. It kinda sits dead under the middle of intake manifold. But water pump bolts up to the nearside end. Anyway.... There's a 2 year warranty isn't there so they should. It may just be a coolant hose or spring clip this time but it all would of been removed and refitted. The thermostat is an electromechsnical device with servo actuation and electronic control. A TMCU thermal control management unit. No longer a bimetallic valve employed in this engine.

I see Venus is still on VHF ...

Burning the junk mail - about as close to an actual fire as I'm allowed nowadays! Find the Slo-mo effect on my phone mesmerising 😵‍💫 20250202_184731.mp4

Superb 2.0TSI 282PS

No it stays on or off as set. I leave it on but for sometimes switch off so it creeps on tickover useful when parking in tight spots.

Depends on the aftermarket make. Some cheap ones the cv boots don't last. Try https://www.partsinmotion.co.uk/ I have been using them for a while now and find their prices and service are pretty good. Depending on what front calipers you have it may be them. I get a clunk from mine when I reverse. They are ATE and have an external spring. Alasdair

The big difference that I noted was that settings in the navigation such as favourite locations were not saved on 1804 but were in 1941. In the UK my vehicle has just received an OTA upgrade from 1941 to 1985. I do not know if this happens in India.

Yes that is the Service Schedule, but then conditions in Europe /UK and India might be rather different, as might be fuel. Location location location and it is yourself that is aware of decreased performance as is the OP so it has to be for some reason on such low mileage cars / engines.

can anyone upload again?

Hi, I have a 2011 Skoda Octavia 1.6l greenline i bought new. 524,000 kms, ( approx 328,000 miles). 3 cambelts and a EGR valve are the only major work on this car.

You do not rely on it, but if you happen to not spot something / someone there might be an alert. Amazing those that think they see everything and are in full control. Because they miss things they do not know they missed seeing something. All these that are never in an accident but cause them.

My 2019 Kamiq is my first car that has had blind spot detection and I don't think that I would have another car that did not have that safety feature. Whilst it is not a feature that I particularly like, I am amazed at the negative comments on Lane Assist. Both my wife and I feel that it is a useful safety function that we never turn off, when it does give a nudge that we have crossed a centre line or the system fails to recognise the lack of a centre line, the nudge that Line Assist gives is such that any sensible driver should expect and cope with, during normal driving. Whilst not a like, my biggest gripe is the fixed, very low passenger seat. I have raised this by 30mm but my wife still uses a 100mm seat cushion which she also uses when driving the car. My other like is the car's utter reliability, it has never had any fault over the 4 years of ownership.