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While everyone’s entitled to their opinion, I think the way one has chosen to express it is unnecessarily derogatory. It’s one thing to prefer another website, totally fair, we all have our preferences. However, t’s another thing entirely to come into this community and trash the site in such a dismissive way. If the roles were reversed, I’m sure VerticalScope the owner of the site you prefer would be thrilled to know one of their members was out publicly belittling other communities online. That kind of behavior reflects more on the individual than on any platform they’re talking about. There’s always room for improvement in any community, and thoughtful, constructive criticism is always welcome. But this kind of negativity doesn’t build anything, it just tears down. If you’ve got suggestions, let’s hear them. If not, maybe consider the kind of energy you’re bringing into the space. We’re all here to make things better, not bitter. Enjoy your site, and don’t let the door hit you backside on the way out…

A complete day of detailing. Perfect weather: cloudy almost all day long and sunny in the early evening for pictures! Inside: Completely vacuumed (even the spare wheel well), leathers cleaned and moisturized, plastics brushed (espacially door sills and drivers pedals), rubber mats cleaned and brushed with an APC. Outside: Intensive handwash (doors and tailgate hinges, bonnet & tailgate logos, folds of door seals around windows, all cleaned with a paint brush), tar removed, windows cleaned with alcohol. It was my way to be grateful to my Mk3 after 7.5 years and 136500 km on the clock before selling it. As a 'feedback', it granted me all this subtil metallic glitters of its Moon white color 😍, that I had almost forgotten... 🙄

Why this upgrade? (I'll post some more pictures of the process today)I drive a Skoda Superb Combi 1.4 iV PHEV Sportline (MQB platform), and while it's a comfortable cruiser, I always felt the stock 288 mm brakes were underwhelming, especially during emergency braking. As a volunteer firefighter, I sometimes need to get to the station quickly. I found the stopping power to be insufficient for such a heavy car (1.8 tons), I also own a 2004 Audi RS6 C5, which has 8-piston Brembo front brakes — and the difference is night and day. While the RS6 is more powerful and performance-focused, it made me realize just how undersized the brakes on the Superb iV are, especially when you need to stop hard from higher speeds. That’s what motivated me to upgrade to a proper 340 mm OEM front brake setup, as found on GTI/Cupra models. so I upgraded to a 340 mm front brake setup. Similar to what’s used on Golf GTI / Cupra Leon / Golf GTE. MQB(Evo) platform I also installed: Hardrace rear sway bar DCC module tweak greatly improved braking and handling stability. Eibach Pro kit I sourced all parts from a scrapyard, except for the dust shields, which I ordered new from the dealer. That makes this a budget-friendly OEM-style upgrade — not a fancy aftermarket setup, but a factory-matching improvement that fits perfectly on the MQB(EVO)-based Superb. Good donor cars to look for: Golf 7 GTI Cupra Leon (5F or KLCF) Golf GTE / Octavia RS / Cupra Formentor Most of these use the exact FN3 caliper with 340 mm front discs. Partslist: Part OEM Number Qty Notes Brake caliper + carrier 5Q0615105EG (L) / 5Q0615106EG (R) 1 set FN3 calipers from GTI/Cupra/Formentor Brake discs 340x30mm 5Q0615301G 2 Vented, for FN3 caliper Brake pads – 1 set Match FN3 caliper (ATE, Ferodo, etc.) Carrier bolts N90678001 4 Stretch bolts, always use new ones Dust shields 5Q0615311F (L) / 5Q0615312F (R) 2 Required for 340 mm clearance Brake fluid (DOT 4) 1–1.5L ATE Typ 200 recommended InstallationIt's easier to turn the wheels in the direction you're going to work on. Raise the car and remove the wheel Remove the old caliper and disc ( You can leave the old caliber hanging on the line until you have the new one in place.) Install the larger dust shield (or trim the old one to fit) Fit the new 340x 30 mm disc Clean the hub and apply copper grease to prevent rust Bolt the caliper carrier in place Torque spec: 200 Nm + 90° angle Mount the brake pads and caliper on the carrier (DIS)Connect the brake hose Keep it upright or temporarily plug it to avoid leaks Bleed the brakes With a helper or transparent hose in fluid Sequence: RR → LR → RF → LF Check for: Leaks, Firm pedal, Fluid level in reservoir Test drive at low speed Verify pedal feel, brake balance, and straight braking

Try squeezing the top rad hose and holding for a few secs then release and keep doing it for a while. Had a similar problem when I changed timing belt/waterpump on my old 1.9tdi. After a while I got a rush of bubbles into expansion tank. Think the air was in the heater matrix. Topped up and it was fine after that.

I did indeed thank you. Sorry I didn't update until now. Turns out it was indeed the end of a syphon tool. Only thing for it was a pair of massive pliers.

Yep, the 1.5 is a four cylinder engine. It’s the 1.0 e-Tec that is three cylinder (and surprisingly capable).

Looks good on the final product 👍🏼 The Superb 280 AWD has 340mm front brakes and 312mm rear. As I understand it, all other Superbs (all FWD and the diesel AWD) have 312mm front discs and 300mm rear. Are you sure yours are 288mm? That seems to be Octavia or Mk2 Superbs from a quick google search. Also, as donor cars go, the Golf Gti performance pack has 340mm. The standard gti has 312mm. The Golf R has 340mm. As will the gti clubsport.

Interesting. I’m an old fart and the nav is exactly the same as it used to be which, like almost every other one, is pretty poor. To find something specific, I always use the Google site search EG site:briskoda.net now stick your search term in This generally gives the best results. Still if you’re set on leaving, seeya.

I have retrofitted mib std2 pq into 2010 superb. It originally had parking sensors but no camera. Parking sensors are working on the mib std2 pq. Now i want to retrofit RVC. Maybe someone has done this and can guide me what is needed for this? 1) camera and harness 2) coding 3) boot exterior handle with integrated slot for camera lens? 4) change of parking module to a different one? 5) camera with guidance line? Anything else? What camera to choose from? there is low line camera and different kind.

Some off these PHEVs will be bought because they are good tax dodges and the driver may also have a fuel card so working out the saving on actually taking couple minutes to plug in and couple minutes to unplug the driver will think " cannot be arsed".

This is what is in my 2021 Skoda Octavia 2.0 TDI 12v 70aH 760A Start/Stop Length 278 x Width 175 x Height 190.

So ICE with a bit of a battery up 34.1 %. The majority will probably never be plugged in https://insideevs.com/news/731090/plug-in-hybrid-charging-data/

As far as I know, it's no longer possible to use the eyelashes as daytime running lights. It's no longer a separately programmable light, rather the light coding is embedded in the headlight data set. Adaptations can no longer be made there. This is unfortunately disappointing, because I also liked the eyelashes as daytime running lights.

Sorry was a snap on computer plugged into the port on dash

Yep double checked it’s on with ignition and off when starts

Car sales down in general. Petrol less than 49 % now, diesel a tiny 5% of total. Pure electric 20.4%, PHEV up big at 11.7% now there are PHEV that can do 80 miles on battery. HEV's at about 14%. There are bound to be some mega EV deals in Q3 and Q4 and cheap finance. Resistance to sell ICE vehicles even more so likely.

Great! Can the eyelash light be used as a daytime running light?

Lock/Unlock purpose is if you lock the fob in the boot. (It won't let you lock it in the car if it's in the storage area between the front seats). I'm sure it limits doing it to 3 times a day unless you manually refresh/connect after that amount.

never had a Skoda before so it's all new to me. I have had a Skoda before, it was even a Karoq, and its still new to me! I've also spent my life working in IT and still find it difficult to find my way round this system! My main gripe from the previous 2021 Karoq to this 2024 model is that the 'nudge' on the steering no longer restarts the engine when the 'start/stop' has engaged. Previously you could nudge the steering when traffic lights start to change and then engine was running ready to move when green!. Now you either have to wait for the delay when you press the throttle (its a DSG btw) or use the stop/start button. In effect I now mostly disable start/stop to avoid the situation...

Similar here on our 2024 SEL.........only way the arrows can be displayed in the middle is if I cancel the dials......

The deadlocks only trigger when the car has been locked externally via the remote, all interior handles stay mechanically operational when the car is driving (with the exception of rear child locks). So a total loss of electronics wouldn't render the occupants trapped. All electronic locks pop open when the crash signal is deployed anyway, so hopefully they'll pop in time.

aligned the end cap and it works perfectly, will get the bolt extracted soon and drain out what’s left of the oil and fill it up - thank you for helping

It is likely that your cooling system has an airlock, this may eventually clear by itself, in which case the coolant will require topping up - or it may require to have a recommended bleeding process of the cooling system carried out. NB. this air purging process should have been carried out by the mechanics who replaced the EGR.

As above, need to know what engine and DSG you have. The skoda dealers I have spoken to when querying the cost of (just) the cambelt change for my 1.5TSI have quoted £1200

After intensive handwash...

Ask for the dealer to confirm it in writing that the lack of a DSG service at the correct time will not affect any claims going forward and see what reaction you get. If they decline to do so that will show what they are up to. For reference we got our Kodiaq from Vertu (Bristol Street Motors as was) in Chesterfield and their after sales service with regards to a water leak into the boot was useless, showing little knowledge of the vehicle so I ended up fixing it myself.

bigger injectors , and bigger turbo. than prepare for piston rod break. leave it on 170 bhp. it is good for stock parts. i also think about mine 1.5 tsi do the same, but stock air filter, maybe sponge. cotton filters let in a lot of particles, small stones, etc.

Agree 100% 👍 Skoda dealer not offering a Skoda warranty on an ‘Approved’ car. And then trying to say ‘Yeah, but this warranty’s better’ (until you need to make a claim). Nice try, but it’d be a no thanks from me. Gaz

I was very lucky getting the rear door unlocked after it was stuck shut for many months: The motors usually respond to a healthy voltage (15 volts+) so may be worth getting the battery charged as much as possible (leave on trickle overnight), then start the car, warm up a few minutes, rev at ca. 1500 rpm then use the lock - unlock button from inside. I found this increased the voltage to the lock which got the lock-motor moving. Have someone outside (or in back seat) to check if it opens when you press unlock. If it opens don't press lock again! It may be the last time the motor decides to work. If it doesn't open first time, try the lock - unlock button several times. mine opened after about about 5 goes. If no luck and you then get the door card off (be prepared for breaking all green clips - they will need replacing) it is possible with contortion + patience to then move the (red?) locking quadrant manually which then allows the door to be opened. This avoids smashing up the lock, v. difficult with door closed or open. Look at pics of a door lock to identify the locking quadrant which moves easily, can be pulled over with a piece of carefully bent wire (coat hanger?). I spent ages looking for the replacement lock, many VW part numbers are almost the same but - dealers system could not cross-reference any VW lock to the Roomster rear door. Best option for me was Skoda Parts Direct at Swindon, very helpful with e-mail and phone info, correct, genuine new lock came next day, cheaper than any other supplier. The lock spec. / part nrs. changed on some models / years, its important to get exactly the same nr. lock. I got a pic. of the lock part nr. sticker on back of the lock, inside the door before I removed the lock, it helped greatly having the new lock to hand before trying to work on it. Thanks for the polo pdc sensor tip. I'll have a look. Mine are MetaSystem 3-pin sensors, Italian I believe. Loads of Chinese copies available but I had no success with them. I may try PSA C3 MetaSystem sensors which appear identical. Different years had different sensors apparently.

The data sheet for the 1.5 e-TEC talks absolut 4 cylinder

A real stunner.

Been several weeks since we swapped out the Relay - Fan has come on once in that time so things much better.

Can confirm that clearing data also has no effect.

To be honest I haven’t spent much time looking at it because I tend to use Siri to just “call so and so”

Great advice above about the turbo modifications and whatnot. Heed! I have seldom noticed that changes to the hardware actually increase the driveability and therefore contribute to the general "usability" of any given car. Yes, you can increase performance, being faster off the line, or up above a certain speed, but in general, messing around with the turbo will result for sure in: a) change in the boost threshold, generally moving upwards the baseline; b) change in the lag response, with varyng results; c) a general disruption to the general balance of the components. All this is not negative per se, is a matter of personal choice when choosing to mess around with the car, your personal property after all. But if you end up with something more enjoyable sometimes, and less enjoyable most of the time, then probably was not a good idea to start with ... ask me how I know 😁☠️ I think you could start work with software and take it from there 🙂

DXNB engine for 193Hp and DXPA engine for 150Hp

Mine failed recently - there is a PCB inside the mirror which can fail. I bought a mirror from a scrappy and it worked again with no issues, straightforward to replace. There's a couple of threads here on the forum.

And possible restricted choice of insurers and / or increased premiums.

Unfortunately, for me it seems that modifications don't increase the value, except if you find the right buyer. Generally it makes the car harder to sell IMO.

@Fernbobs What Engine & DSG does your Karoq have, and how many miles has it done? FWD or AWD? If it was a 1.5 TSI ACT & a DSG that needs and Oil & Filter change then just over £1,000 would be what getting that done costs. But if they do not need doing and those saying they do have not the knowledge / skills, tools, then avoid them.

A bit OT, but a manual VW/Skoda gearbox only needs a gearbox oil change every 6 years / 150k km or so, a good automatic tiptronic gearbox does not need oil/filter change more often than 8 years / 160k km. Looks like we are quickly going backwards on car's durability and maintenance intervals... progress, eh? ☹️

Welcome to Briskoda. My engine sounds very similar to your videos; can’t hear any difference. OK mine is a 1.5TSi (NOT e-Tec) manual with about 58,000 miles (~94,000km). What is it about the noise of yours that makes you worried?

A few from this evening............

Yes, I needed to turn the knob all the way round to the mirror heater symbol. There is no other indication that it is working, but the mist clears.

Finally weather was suitable for some work on car. Added the wiring to the aftermarket camera LS8012, now to just connect it. 1) RVC cable has yellow RCA connector. Does RVC cable plug into MIB STD2 PQ rear port and thats it, or RVC requires any extra connection? 2) The question about PDC module. Currently I have such as below. Is it suitable for this RVC or should I search for other PDC module (such as 1K8919472C which has auto-turn on)? @pab567 System description: PARKHILFE 8K Software number: 1Z0919475C Software version: 0006 Hardware number: 1Z0919475A Hardware version: H06 Serial number: 66541007404147 Long coding: 110108

I got a massage function working on my car, but only works when wife is in a good mood and is seated behind me

There are a couple of threads in here. I retrofitted the "high" to my S2. You can get almost everything off ebay. I only had to order the lead to connect the head unit with TV and the new camera controller. Calibration was fairly easy.

I have ordered the aftermarket cam LS8012. Module for guidance lines is kind of expensive, I will skip it. about pda/pdc module. Where is it located? I have obdeleven can i read the code using it?

Hey, how can i find out the code of my current Parking module (PDC / PLA) ? i have front and rear parking sensors on my 2010 skoda superb combi with oem towbar.

The issue is that there have never been released OEM trunk handle RVCs of this size (90mm). If you do not want to cut your trunk lid then the only solution is to install aftermarket camera, e.g. LS8012 The biggest disadvantage of it is missing sprinkler which is present in most of 110mm wide OEM trunk handle RVCs - but to install OEM trunk handle RVC you must cut your trunk lid to increase the whole for trunk handle Coding is required in both PDC / PLA module and infotainment unit. Parking module (PDC / PLA) might require firmware upgrade or replacement, pls share part number of your current module. To have guidance lines you must add camera controller 7N0907441B.