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Got quite close to the Forth Bridge: Where we had a little picnic: Then visited the Rosslyn Chapel: Amazing place 😎 No signs of Messrs Hanks nor Da Vinci 🙄 Gaz

You may disconnect sensors under the seat. Though I think more practical would be to store stuff on the floor or in the trunk indeed.

Your floor or boot surely would be a lot less hassle than messing around with mods?

Forgot pics of the inside after last deep clean: Not too bad for a 7.5 y.o car with 137000km on the clock 🙂. (with 3 kids 😁).

Just as an alternative to the C-Tek - Lidl sell an appropriate charger for £15 and I know many buy this and find it fine, my neighbour has had his for many years now. And I put up Ring as I use the previous model for my wife 2015 Fabia, (ETA:) £30 or less depending where you buy from. - https://shop.ringautomotive.com/rsc904-4a-smart-battery-charger-maintainer.html 4 or 5 Amps is fine, I prefer 3 or even 2.

If you've never considered one before, I would treat yourself to a C-Tek smart charger (MXS or similar). I'm on my second one since they were launched in the late 90s. They keep batteries alive and in good health longer, especially if your mileage is low. My old Impreza (does 1000 miles a year max) needed a new battery last week but I checked back in my invoices and it was 12.5 years old. Without the CTek I doubt I would have got more than 6 or 7 yrs.

I disconnected mine, no problems. Just in case connected it back before MOT and then disconnected again.

Thank you Zib. I'm back to my more usual pattern of 10 mile round trips each day and not had the problem since i first posted so I think I'm in the "see how it goes" phase. I'm old enough to remember the good old days when (a) if a car broke down it stayed broken until you fixed the problem and (b) you had a fighting chance of diagnosing and fixing the problem without a second mortgage. But in fairness I've had it 12 years and its been very reliable overall.

Small world @Grogee... welcome aboard!

I see the water's a bit cloudy :)

The water at a local lake is so low the plughole is visible!

Yes we haven't seen the Audi pre release yet.

"Drop off only" "Off peak EV charging" I feel like those 2 are mutually exclusive. Not finding the price is least of your worries ;) I've been on jury service, so much of the whole thing is waiting for people/stuff. I finished a TV show on my phone sat in their waiting room. Amazing anything gets done.

Skoda might have stopped putting the white sticky build code label in the spare wheel well area around 2016/17. However, they only had a small selection of the build codes...perhaps around 40 of them...when the car might actually have around 180 build codes. There's a seller on ebay that can supply all of the build codes for 3 Euros (about £2.50). Search "skoda vin decoder" on ebay to find the listing. "skoda vin decoder" https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/226517872578

8Jx18 ET44 5/112 57.1 alloy rim PROPUS 3V0601025B FL8 (from Superb MK3) https://www.lllparts.co.uk/catalogs/skoda/CZ/SUP/851/6/601/601080

Luckily Skoda a footing the bill £700 for a motor and resistor including diagnostics Cheers Mick Haway the lads

Kieran, if you are on any of the FB groups, seek out a guy called Gav. He breaks them all the time, and I’m sure he’ll have a couple on his shelf.

Just picked up a Skoda Superb MK3 estate iV. Loving the car but having an issue with setting myself as the primary user. I've managed to add myself and the wife as users but when I go to set as primary I press the two keys which are recognised, it then just pops us with time out messages after a couple of minutes. I've been told I have to take it back to the garage to sort but it's a 2 hour round trip. Does anyone have a solution? Thanks!

PM

My 2020 has the same issue, previous to me buying it the owner had it in Skoda for a replacement wheel bearing and either they're made of cheese and its gone again, or its something else. I'm currently just turning my music up louder! lol!

🤣

If the sensors are monitored for open or closed circuit (I don't know if they are just raising it as a possible issue) then this would cause fault codes to be stored.

Everything fine with the new radiator, i saw nothing more than benefits. I am conducting some tests for the Fuel Consumption in City traffic-Mountain roads and i will post photos soon. It's impossible to compare the G12 with the G12 Plus because the second added when the new radiator installed, if i had use it with the old-factory then yes i would have the comparison data.

I think what @wharferat says is on the money (pun intended). I often find it funny when people say "the car is only worth....". Yeah ok the car might be worth £5k when working and you have to spend £4k to get there. You then have a car you like for £4k. The only unknown part of the maintenance is the engine (see warranty comment above). How much money would you be willing to spend on a car to get the same confidence in reliability. Probably a fair bit more than the £5k yours could be worth. Is it 7, 8 or even 10k? Even then you only have the same confidence in the engine as you would have if you replaced the engine in yours (i.e. a used unit). As above, it's your finances and your tool for the travel you do. If you are in a good financial position then maybe it's the time to change to petrol or EV. There's a thread in here near the top about the economy of the 190 tsi and how good it is. Another route for replacement could be a diesel tuning house like darkside. They might have a lump kicking about that will offer better performance from an engine built by race engineers.

Thanks for all comments. I normally use E10, winter and summer. The light is currently clear, and I have ordered some JLM petrol particulate filter additive, comes from Germany so will be a week or so. We do a fair amount of short journeys, but that is the whole year. However on the last two months we have driven long distances, Lapland and back which was a 2000km trip and also to visit other cities. So for it to come on last week was a surprise. Being an automatic it always keeps the revs relatively low, so perhaps frequently I will use manual mode for a couple of journeys a week to keep the revs a little higher and hence the exhaust gas temps to try and clear the filter.

Nice, But the hardest part is to keep it looking like that, especially with three kids. Ask me how I know it 😉

In its current state, would you realistically get the £5000 if traded in? If you could get another engine, in good condition, fitted, what would be the trade in value then? What you then have to factor in, is, would you get a car that suits you as much as this one has done, or would you be sacrificing some things such as age, trim, ICE, engine, different model, or even make, etc to meet the budget you have for a replacement? It's your choice. If getting another engine fitted brings the car back to a condition that you'd consider keeping it for another few years, or, you can commit to the cost of replacing it, either on a like for like (ie, 66 plate) car, or something a bit newer with a few extra bells & whistles. It's your finances & you are the only one who knows which makes the better financial sense. Perhaps a discussion with your garage to see if they can offer a fixed price, maybe with also obtaining an engine in that, plus a warranty on the work, will help you to make up your mind one way or another. Good Luck whichever way you decide.

Alright, I will try that out.

That's why you take it to a private garage to get a full service at half the price of an oil service 🤣

It's possible that the battery drained considerably whilst the car was being serviced. A decent long run or a proper charge of the battery may make all the difference.

Sunshine on Leith: Bit of a mist coming in, but t’was nice to see 😎 Gaz

Welcome and nice to see a Favorit!

Nice one, he's a top bloke.

Build date was 23/12/2010. In car printed manuals are often insufficiently up-to-date, same with stickers of fuse info. Sometimes copy/paste on something like a VIN doesn't work because of unnoticed leading or trailing space characters. Try typing it into the site that @Stonekeeper kindly recommended, character by character. And make sure all the 0 characters are entered as numeral zero, not letter 'oh'.

That is a good idea. I will do that when I make a start. Car is under a cover at the moment as we are about to go on holiday but on my return, I will start a thread. Already collected upgraded injectors, K04 turbo plus downpipe From an Audi S3. Also front subframe complete with Alloy suspension arms and a quick rack, some turbo silicon pipework and a few other bits and pieces.

Right - you need to invest in some VERY expensive VAG sunroof lubricant. Its better than regular silicon spray as it doesn't attract dirt. Part No: G00045002 Secondly, you'll need to go around and tighten up any of the visible screws. Make sure the wind deflector is also not bouncing around Thirdly - and this happened to me on my 2019 L&K, the cover for the sunroof / panoramic screen - wasn't always clipped in at the factory and this will also need to be taken apart and put back together at a Skoda or VAG specialist garage.

As much as I like the five spoke wheels, I prefer the the multispokes. The Neuspeed remind me of the OZ Ultraleggera I had on my red Mk1 so that's probably why I think they suit it more. Having said that, the others are still a great choice and give it a different look. I also think I'm leaning towards the Neuspeeds as they look similar to the STI wheels on my Subaru, although they're 12 spokes so are a bit more fussy.

Right fixed it last night. I used the servo motors from the VW Golf Mk7 fuel cap release as i needed one of those as well, so ordered three. They are marginally different but fit and work. Cost was £5.63 each delivered from Aliexpress https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008075672052.html Interestingly i couldn't move the rod in and out by hand (I could on the old ones) and their default position is 'out' which results in the parcel shelf still working manually in case of a failure. Anyway, all fitted and worked straight away!

My view is similar, to use them until they look very bad or the finish starts to rot & replace them with aftermarket wheels when I'm going to replace the tyres at the same time. There are nice basic aftermarket wheels <€100 a corner. My winter wheels were just over €800 with Conti tyres, fitted, balanced & delivered

Glad its sorted and they just blanked off the LED. Years ago I did a similar thing on an old volvo re airbags, I bypassed the led and connected it to the oil light so it came on with ignition and went off when engine running. Alasdair

I,ve just got back into another Skoda (Citigo Monte Carlo) and re joined.The site doesn,t look any different than when i first joined back in 2006.

Thank you both for your replies! Apologies for the delay in responding. I took the cluster out in full and removed the Speedo film. You were right @Alasdair1 in that the needles came off with some gentle prying. I dug out all of the ‘white tack’ that had been stuffed down the EML light port, inspired by the thoughts of having to spend significant time and money re-coding a new cluster if I didn’t make the effort. EML light now works, comes on and goes off with ignition. I suspect someone has done this previously to get through a cheeky sale or MOT. Easy enough to remove the cluster though!

As far as I understand the Mk4.5 is not supported yet, no one-click app changes possible apart from two for the battery. I got a credit refund from OBDeleven. It would be nice to know when the 2025 car will be supported?

Pls share VIN and part number of the unit you bought.

Ok, it is that time of year again. MOT was on Friday, all good with no problems and now at 51.5K miles Did the 7th service on Saturday, Just a small service this one. All good, except the battery is showing signs of getting old. The tyres/wheels were rotated as usual, although the car is now keeping the all season tyres on all year. Car is now living with the Daughter these day and doesn't get the milage it used to. Will update the ERWIN service record tomorrow. Oil I already had, so just £8.04 for the Bosch oil filter. All good and still plan to keep it long term. Thanks. AG Falco

The car has the new steering wheel. No logo. I like it.

Various manuals available to download here:

What kind of gains can i get? The lower power 1.4 TSI (122/125PS models) use the same size turbo as the 1.2 TSI, only the 140/150PS variants use a larger turbo. Given that with no other mods, when mapped the difference between the two turbo sizes of the 1.4 TSI is roughly 30PS, we can expect the 1.2TSI should produce around 160PS (130PS being a common Stage-1 level map) with the larger turbo. Obviously, with other mods like a sport-cat or intakes, this may well increase further - sometimes by more than 20PS, possibly achieving more than 180PS. Torque probably won't change much if at all though, it'll just hold that torque to higher rpms. So, to summarise, with no other mods, probably around the 160PS mark, with torque somewhere around the 240NM mark. Can I fit it without mapping it straight away? Yes, but the larger turbo has different boost characteristics, it will run fine, but it barely provides any torque until about 2000 rpm, where the stock turbo provides strong torque from just 1400 rpm. You will also notice that it feels like the engine is breathing much better beyond 4500 rpm, it just keeps on going where before it would feel like it ran out of puff. The turbo is barely doing anything yet it pulls so well. This will all change when mapped - which i haven't yet done - and i'll be certain to update you all when i have had it done! What else do I need to fit it? You should buy a Gasket Set for it, this comes with new seals for the oil lines, charge pipe, coolant lines and new exhaust gaskets. You can get one from here: https://www.autodoc.co.uk/elring/9970020 they take sometimes up to 2 weeks to arrive, but it's got everything you need in there. Can I fit it myself? Yes, for tools, you'll need your standard metric socket set, 8mm through till 15mm is enough, you'll also want a T30 bit, and a 6mm Hex bit (a T40 bit works if you don't have a 6mm Hex bit). There's one more bit which is called a Triple Square Spline bit, it's like a 12point Torx, and i've no idea what size it is, i'll let you figure that one out for yourself! It's metric though. There's 3 bolts which use that bit, visible from under the bonnet there's 3 of them, they secure the heatshield (which also serves as a brace), onto the turbo and the engine. You'll want some vice grips (mole grips, moll grips, lockjaw grips or whatever you like to call them), to release the hoses off the intake pipes. Finally, you will also want to lift the front end of the car on some axle stands, never work under a car with just a jack! If you're not confident, just take it to a garage. Tips for installation / Simple instructions. First thing you should do is unplug the wastegate connection, that's just behind the back of the intake pipe as it goes into the turbo. Take off the entire airbox (disconnect the flexi from the turbo intake, and the cold air feed - you'll need those vice-grips for this), it just pops on/off 3 nubbin type things, give it a tug and it comes off easily. Take off the charge pipe, it's just got two clips on either end, chances are the rubber seal has probably stuck itself, so it might be a bit tough, but once you get it moving it'll come off fine. Cover the throttle body! You don't want to get anything in there! I stuck a rubber glove over it. Next, open the coolant reserviour to release any pressure, then follow the pair of metal lines round from the turbo till the rubber lines, move the metal clips an inch or two away from the end, and the rubber hoses will pull off. Now go ahead and remove all the bolts for the coolant and oil lines (when you're underneath the car, there's a plastic/aluminium heatshield which can be removed by taking out the two bolts, you'll gain a lot more access by removing that). Pull all the oil and coolant lines off (there's one in particular that's a bit tight - that's what she s....) from the turbo, so no you're just left with the turbo. Unbolt and remove the heatshield/brace, that's those wierd 12-point torx bits and a couple random 10mm bolts if i remember correctly, and now the only thing left is to remove the turbo from the exhaust. Now i'd suggest to loosen the exhaust clamp, but don't fully undo it, so when you take off the manifold nuts the turbo can't just drop off - as it's easier to get at the nuts from underneath the car, you don't really want a turbo dropping on your face! Once you've got the manifold nuts off, you can fully undo the exhaust clamp, it might take a bit of tapping with something metalic to free it up, then you can pull out the turbo (from the top). If you're replacing the manifold studs, now's the time, they're easily accessible from the top now. Install the shorter threaded side of the new studs into the manifold, the longer side *might* fit, but it also might bottom out (the threads about 25mm and the hole is about 25mm too), in which case you risk cracking the head! Now just do everything in reverse, but with the new turbo, don't forget the exhaust gaskets! (there's one that goes between the manifold and the turbo, and one metal ring one that goes between the turbo and exhaust). Putting everything back in was a doddle compared to getting everything back out. It took me 8 hours in total, and I ended up quite sunburnt! Don't go mad with tightening the oil/coolant line bolts, they weren't in particularly tight from factory anyway, if you're really worried put some loctite, just don't over torque them! Manifold nuts and the exhaust clamp do need to be tight though, exhaust leaks can damage other stuff in the engine bay, make the engine not poorly (incorrect readings from the O2 sensors), and will fail the MOT if you left it that long! Adaptation is advised but not necessarily required for the wastegate (I didn't do it on mine and it's been fine). Before fitting, ensure the wastegate is able to open and close (it is a fairly stiff mechanism but it is quite possible to move it by hand), If it's completely stuck then spraying some GT-85 both inside the exhaust housing where the wastegate protudes through, and in the actuator mechanism itself will work wonders and should reduce the chance of limp mode occuring.

I tried. But still the same.