Leaderboard

In case anyone is interested, this issue was finally resolved today. Skoda dealer had the car in on three separate occasions: 30 October. Couldn't identify fault. Booked for 2 days. 13 & 14 November. Said was fixed, worked once on way home, then packed up. I noticed both washer nozzles were now broken, which they didn't admit to. 11 December. First date they could get the car back in. Faffed about, still couldn't fix it, decided car needed new reservoir and pump, but told me Skoda wouldn't handle as extended warranty claim. Quoted £372.48 Yesterday I booked the car in to a local independent (Moss and Hall Engineering, Stapleford). Job done at 1pm today, blocked filter cleared, 2 new jets fitted, total £194. No wonder main dealers have a bad reputation.

You shouldn't have any reduction in ground clearance with different wheels - all that happens is that as you reduce the wheel diameter, the right tyre for the car has a higher side wall. The overall diameter of the wheel & tyre should remain the same. If not, the circumference changes and the speedometer is rendered less accurate. On the flip side, this does mean tyre pressure affects the ride more as a lower pressure will result in the tyre compressing more to absorb more bumps. Depending on whether the tyre pressures are low (or on the lower side of correct) could mean there's been a little more overall travel (tyre and suspension) than if the tyre was set for a fully loaded vehicle. Its not going to be much but it could have made the difference. I'm not spotting anything showing the panel gaps are woefully different but it does sound like something happened if you're getting a different sound. I think there are mounting points for the bonnet which may need adjusting. If nothing else, get yourself to a good independent and see if they can look it over with a little more of an experienced eye. A 4-wheel alignment may also be worth it in case any suspension components have taken a little more energy than imagined.

Also in that "sun belt" are some of the countries with the lowest per capita earnings in the world, transformation there is making the gap between "the haves" and "the have nots" even wider, so it's not as rosy a picture as you paint.

Hello all fellow Skoda owners, new member here. 48yo male living in Hampshire UK. I've recently bought my first Skoda a 19 plate Octavia Hatch 2.0tsi SE L DSG in silver. Unfortunately it was a bit of a distress purchase as my previous car (Golf GTI mk5) was written off in an accident so I'm not new to the VAG world just the Skoda part of it! Anyway I've a few questions that I'll try to post in the correct place. Safe driving, thanks.

TBH we should start getting some real-life data soon enough in terms of life expectancy and mileages. EA211 TSI engines have been around since 2012 and the ACT versions since 2017 IIRC. So if failures due to age and / or mileage are starting to happen earlier than suggested by the recent changes to the service regimes / manuals then we should have started hearing by now... or we will do soon.

Carbon / emissions trading is the big con in this world. Like the EV Mandate and buying credits from other Car Manufacturers.

Yes, but that was not the question was it, I asked to imagine IF it was reversed and ICE could be filled at home at BEV couldn't, then it BEV drivers would be moaning, wouldn't it?

What @Alasdair1 above says, get it done plus tensioner and water pump which is accessible at the same time and is a consumable item anyway. With no history you've no way of knowing when it was last changed so it's a gamble at this point how much longer it'll last.

I used to change my 1.9pd every 60k or 5 years (same as all my cars) although skoda have increased interval by a long way on some of I think newer cars. Personally I would change it at that mileage as you have no previous history. Not too bad a job on the 1.9tdi. I got a cheap kit on amazon to lock up camshaft etc and fitted a Gates kit including tensioner and water pump. Kit was around £65-00. There are from memory a few different ones depending on age and vin number. Alasdair

Hi Returning to the Skoda Vrs family after 17 years away (company cars and Alfa Romeo Gtv and Spiders) Previously had 02 L&K, 3x MK1 Vrs 2 Corrida Red and a Yellow). Just bought 15 Plate VRs TDI in Metallic Grey. Really happy to be back!

I had a 2002 ibiza with a pd130 in. Had the Cambelt done in 2016 with about 150k on. We dont know if the belt was original, but it did have holes in 😨 So yeah, don't do that 🤣

Yeah, I shoulda asked first, I was preparing myself to do that "before" the fact, but then my friend with the service had a "easy" Sat morning with the car lift free ... and he called me up to do the job and it was all in a rush and we just did it. Will keep in mind for next time ☺️

Update: After a long hour that broke my back I managed to remove the rubber boots that got stuck on plugs 1 and 2, then I removed and inspect them and they seem ok (I have seen worse, I was so stressed that I didnt buy new ones because I just wanted to fix the mess I made). Then I bought new spark wires that cost about 75$. After replacing the 1 and 2 spark wires the car ran great and after a short drive I think it even fixed the original problem I had with it.

1) No, the under bonnet sound deadening is only fitted to diesel versions. 4) I have a 1.8TSI (also the EA888 engine) and use 95RON most of the time, maybe once every 3 months or so I fill with 98RON.

Have a look for a good independent garage who specialises in ze German cars The problem with all motorway miles is the revs are low, so a good thrashing when warm is good but that also causes more soot. When safe to do so go on the motorway but keep it in low gear for 15 mins so the revs around 2.5k

Had a chat with the Skoda dealer service advisor in Inverness yesterday about the cost of getting the cambelt replaced in a couple of months time and explained I knew about the change in Skoda UK policy that the recomendation for the belt to be changed age wise was at 5 years no longer applies. The quoted cost of replacement was £1273.58, at my request he contacted the senior technician who confimed that the coolant pump is not driven by the cam belt as it is located in another part of the engine. The Karoq will be 7 years old at the end of January and mileage is around 35000 miles so something to think over if I decide to keep the car for 5 to 6 more years.

They dont have to have much play to cause a knock which I reckon the ARB amplifies. Chances are the garage checked same as you did and there was no noticeable movement or visible damage. The problem with MOT tests is that they dont drive car so can only check visually or some have vibration systems to check ball joints etc but not the same as driving on bumpy roads. Check the condition of the ARB bushes as well. Hope its a simple fix. I ran mine for about 3 months before getting round to changing them as I didnt have time. They also started knocking about 6months after my MOT. Alasdair

thanks both. yes lights go up and down on the igingition and I think without the sensor conncected up they would have rested in the right position but the MOT tester was insisting it wouldn't pass without it all working as it's supposed to. Thanks to Mike I got the sensor delivered from Czech. Friendly parts guy at Lookers Guildford confirmed the part number for the rod 1J0941285C and advised that the last one in the country is at Johnsons Stafford in case anyone else finds this post in the future and needs one they could try there. I ended up buying a 1J0941285D . new old stock from ebay which seems to be identical. We now have a MOT! 🎉

Hi and welcome to Briskoda @OctoParrot 👋

just read a message on the (Dutch) skoda page that they have issues with skoda connect...

Thanks everyone for your thoughts and yes it was Hawco Skoda Inverness now part of the John Martin Group I visited yesterday which is 80 miles east of where I stay on the west coast mainland. Motor TraderJohn Clark Motor Group acquires Hawco & SonsJohn Clark Motor Group has acquired Hawco Group and its dealerships in Inverness, Elgin and Peterhea... I have e-mailed Victoria Garage to see what their charges are for doing the cambelt change but they are around 170 miles one way east of where I stay but it will be interesting to get a cost comparison from them, sometime.

That is so wrong, pump prices are rising and fast, I'm paying almost 10p more a litre now than I was a month ago, despite crude oil being cheaper.

I don't think that there is anything to worry about, just noises from tappets getting oil pressure up to them and there will be extra petrol injectors noises at cold start.

I think that there is still some nervousness in owners, and some workshops minds over the "quite longer than long" mileage/years that is currently given for this job, probably based on previous mileages/years offered by many other manufacturers - and then dropped back quite a bit when experiences proved that some mileages/years quoted did not tie in with real world workshops and owners personal experience. Having said that, I waited until 10 years and 55,000 miles had passed before I handed my wife's 2015 VW Polo 1.2TSI in for this job, okay it "only" cost £650ish at VW Group proper Indie as that car does not have ACT and so the labour time is a lot shorter. So, to the OP, I'd suggest leaving that job for now, my mate "through West" has a late 2019 VW T-ROC 1.5TSI 150PS and he has asked me about when should he get this task done, a very tricky question to answer maybe, he will have done a lot more miles than my wife's 2015 Polo, giving a friend this sort of advice, ie "I'd leave it for now", and then "bang" is not what I'd hope to happen. At the end of the day, if you, the buyer and owner, plans to keep this car for another say 8 years/50,000miles, then why not just get it done at around the 10 years mark so that you can hopefully stop worrying about it and also make some use out of spending that sort of money. Edit:- oh, and the "money taker" at that local VW Group proper Indie said to me as I was heading back out after collecting the Polo, "that will be you for another 5 years" - I turned round and muttered something and gave him a funny look!

Had similar on my Octavia. There didnt seem to be any wear or movement but I changed drop links. They looked fine on the car but on removing they were shot. Probably as they are held in tension by the antirollbar etc. Check bottom ball joint as well. Alasdair

Skoda / VW Group in the UK and the 5 years / 50,000 miles was unique really. Their nice little earner for UK Dealerships. Then people were not paying £800-£1,200 and trading in cars and Dealers did not want to have these cars with the Manufacturers Schedule, Guidelines or advised work done at their expense and a techs day spent on them. So Simply Clever, drop this nonsense. Not all Dealerships had the time or locking setting tools / qualified yechs.

Electricity is something one can make oneself, usually via solar panels but not exclusively, with equipment readily available for a couple/few grand. Diesel and petrol takes billions of dollars of equipment to create and had to be brought hundreds or thousands of miles to those distribution points which are highly regulated to prevent large explosions which can take out a city block. Diesel and Petrol is easy to tax as this can be done as it leaves the refinery, End Product Duty, it is the most efficient tax of all to collect in terms of cost to collect against amount collected. With electricity governments have less and less control with as people of the world make their own. They are increasingly there to power street lighting and utility services and more and more there job is to have ways of taking surplus power from domestic customers and presumably industry wanting to feed back surplus to them so their job is increasingly to act as a storer of electricity and energy to make electricity later. Transformation is happening much more in the sun belt of latitude 35N to 35S where already few consumers need help from the grid during the main daylight hours. They gave solar, they have batteries and they charge their cars in the daytime if they can. In that zone from Australia and NZ in the southern hemisphere and mainland Europe, US and China people have balcony solar to solar installations the size of football pitches and the countries have hydro projects that make Dinorwig look relatively small. The UK problem is we are far further north in latitude than where most people live but even here people are able make good solar much of the year and use batteries to use less of the expensive electricity and more of the cheap night time electricity. Trick is harvest enough to feed ones vehicle, difficult living so far north but electricity is clearly the way forward and dino juice yesterday's story. Yes the EU can relax the ban and replace with a near impossible CO2 target for ICE vehicles, result is the same abd with spiralling downward EV cost and spiralling upwards petrol costs that is just more nails in the coffin of ICE vehicles.

Felicia's ABS is not first gen. Couldn't find exact capabilities, but pre-facelift models used units from MY95+ MK3 golf, which was already upgraded unit, capable of replacing rear pressure regulator and optional EDS function, which suggests it's at least 3-channel system (independent control of front wheels and rear axle). Post-facelift models use Lupo (standard) or MK4 Golf (EDS) control unit - I found conflicting information whether those are 3 or 4 channel systems, but it's apparent that Felicia was on par with VAG models of the time.

Our Fabia 1.9 pd ATD did 80,000 miles on its first cambelt no problem if that helps.

Then Octavia 4

with regards to connectors i used, i'll get that for u soon, but essentially i got them from AliExpress. with regards to the BCM pins, have a read here - its a discussion i started in another forum that goes through in great detail about the process i went through to determine the right BCM pin to use. in my case, i ended up using LB39 on the B-Connector. speaking of BCM - there r differences between MY16 and MY17 control modules!! MY15 and MY16 had the "early" setup. Skoda changed it from MY17, until MY20, when it changed again when the mk3 facelift Superb was released. for example, MY15 & MY16 has module 55-headlights for headlights & DRL stuff. MY17 onwards, this was moved to module 4C-multifunction module. no more module 55. BCM versions i believe r also different. as a result, there will b difference in coding (OBDEleven or VCDS). u can definitely use the 14-pin piggy-back plug that comes with the DRL light bar if u don't want to use the DRL dimming function. by default, the DRL light bar's 14-pin plug is wired to trigger (turn on) when the low beams r turned on, i.e. Pin No. 6. if u want, u can change it to Pin No. 10 or 12 so it triggers when the headlight DRL's r on. difference here is that it won't dim when the headlight DRLs dim. they'll just remain at full power. good luck with the install 👍

Gan canny with ye yool logs bonny lad.

Mine is Present but blanked out and ECU coded to not look for it. You may be alright if the maf was historical. Hopefully it was and stays like that..

You know you're always welcome but IKWYM. Frohe Weinachten 🎅🕯️🕯️🕯️

I formerly thought the same thing as you, until I asked some tips to our Master Superb Mk3 Guru @ApertureS 👋 before replacing the rear brake pads on my ex-Superb Mk3. He told me to push straight to avoid making dammage (on the piston seals or on the EPB motors, I can't remember honestly), thus I pushed forward and everything went as planned.

I need to chase them up, been busy with work/Christmas etc. I’ll try this week 👍🏻

Hello, I used to run the same Eibach Pro kit on my 2017 Fabia. So, I’m not sure if there will be any differences between facelift and not but I don’t think so. See the attached photo of arch gap on my fabia. It didn’t have much clearance at all. Not enough to get alignment equipment on the tyre, and caused scrubbing and uneven wear. Now granted, My shocks were pretty knackered. But, I then upgraded to some Koni Special Actives, And suffered the same issue. So I reverted back to stock springs. B8 shocks are specifically for lowered vehicles, But any shock will do. I’ve heard B8’s can be very hard on the ride quality. So judge is based on your own car usage. Hope this helps. They’re 17” Alloys, stock, with 25mm spacer.

I'm envious! Nice job.

Hence my angle of the dangle test suggestion, looking at photos only gets you so far. This could be tried just for practice once the new part has been fitted and working as it doesn't matter if successful and how successful or not, and it's still learning.

As memtioned elsewhere, Carista doesn't allow this.

ETA: always check and cross reference with several reliable sources any information you get from any source (including from manufacturers) and especially compatibility lists. I have experienced and seen errors in these quite a few times over the decades particularly when databases are merged or format changed (such as "putting on to the computer"). Errors and omissions are continued and copied, sometimes even the wrong data applied and presented (such as eBay seller copying the wrong list off somewhere else).

No but it spurred me on to find out which I meant, it was (Bilt Hamber) Dynax-S50. - https://bilthamber.com/product/dynax-s50/

You were lucky, there is a risk of unscrewing the park brake piston from the actuator thread which needs a complete stripdown of the caliper to put right. This is the same as what happens if you take a brake out of service mode before it is fully reassembled - in this case the motor winds the park brake piston off the end of the actuator.

I personally would change the oil on my DQ381 at 40k and the filter, which is on similar location but pointing forward(horizontally), not up(vertically) like on DQ250.

I'm pretty sure they won't be able to get a suitable replacement AGM battery for £60! Of more than a little concern is the report that the battery is not correctly clamped-down. Standing voltage alone is not a full test of the battery - you need to test under load conditions as well - a reasonable check is to measure the terminal voltage while the engine is being cranked over, should not fall below about 10.5 volts with a good crank.

Of course. Skoda are manufacturers of happy drivers 😆 Welcome to Briskoda 👍

Then my conversation would have been along the lines of “here’s your car back”.

First post here. Like the mods you have done to the car and this one stood out for me, looking to try to do this myself soon. Could you go into more detail about the wiring part of this project, example the connectors u have used as they look like oem to me, but mainly the wiring diagram for this from the BCM pins etc, so that the bars work inline with the DRLs as u stated. I have obd11 that i think can do the coding part as u have pics of that aswell, my car is MY16 (could be difference in BCM to your MY17? car) Is there any other difference, if using the supplied 14pin connector straight from headlight, other than no dimming function if i decide go that route rather than BCM wiring? Placed an order on Ali for the golf mk6 gti bars, were on sale too for 80€

Hi. Yes, amazingly. So I paid Arnold Clark 23.4K for the car, delivered from the north of Scotland to Devon, then I sold it four months later to the Skoda main dealer in Exeter for 22.2K, with a couple of small cosmetic faults mentioned. Given how much you normally lose as soon as you buy from a dealer, and then again if you sell to a dealer....... I got very lucky indeed.

The bearing got pounded hard it seems. Lack of lubrication would be the main suspect, but the gearbox was not low on oil... could be just bad luck or the car sat at side incline (this did happen) before being driven. More teardown will happen, and I will post final verdict.