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Spent a bit of time on this wildlife shot using Lightroom. Before and after below, Reduced the noise as it was shot at 2000 ISO. Not sure if it made a huge difference as the camera is pretty good at high ISO. Also removed some of the distractions around the bird. Shooting across to Arran so made a camera door mount out of a few bits. Helps when using the car as a hide. It raises the camera above the door mirror and keeps it in place to enable me to move the car, albeit slowly to get the shot.

As per title, the PCP on my Peugeot 3008 PHEV, is coming to an end in the next couple of weeks (technically I am Voluntary Terminating the PCP a month early) and I'm sad that the car didn't work out as well as I hoped. The car itself is great. It was pretty faultless whilst I had it, although it suffered well over a month unable to be used, after I blew a tyre out in a pothole one rainy Manchester evening. Turned out there were no comparable tyres in the country. I tried every avenue, including Peugeot themselves, but it was a big "no" from everyone. But that aside the car was very reliable - oh and the tyres are freely available now Good points The interior, which is a really nice place to spend time. Anyone remembering Peugeot from the 80/90/00s would be surprised by the quality and general style of the thing. They have gone down a contentious route of placing the speedo display above the eye-line of the steering wheel. I didn't even notice on the test drive and found it natural and worked brilliantly, others disagree The switchgear, especially the metal piano key buttons are a tactile delight and massage seats were a fun option that I rarely used. The only thing missing in the spec was a sunroof (I don't like them anyway) and wireless Android Auto/Apple carplay. This is easily fixed with a cheap Amazon dongle that plugs into the car in place of your phone connection and works seamlessly as a conduit for wireless operation. Great fix The ride quality is great, as the car is quite softly sprung (remember those days when cars were just so, I'm looking at you, you naughty stiff German cars). It does roll a fair bit in corners, but I quite enjoyed the challenged of keeping speed up on a cross-country blast, it was much more of a challenge than regular modern cars, especially VAG, BMW and their ilk. The gearbox was an 8 speed slushmatic and worked really well, even if the flappy paddles were connected to the gearbox via a dialup modem. Also, suprisingly, the performance could be described as quite brisk in a straight line and quite scary in a combination of challenging corners. This is because, quite incongruously, my 3008 had a 1.6 petrol engine and two electric motors. This gave a limited power of 300bhp! So the car could certainly pick up its heels and head off like a scaled cat (well, comparatively speaking). Not so good points and the main reason the car was a disappointment. The PHEV bit! I admit the car was an experiment for me but as it turned out, the real world running costs, mainly the economy, were a big disappointment. Ok, I could charge at home, but my job entails that I needed to charge the car many, many times away from home. At this point it becomes very expensive and I would have been better off buying a standard 2.0 petrol car in this regard. Another issue is range. Peugeot claim "up to" 39 miles of electric range, but in reality low 20s is your lot in summer and less than this in winter, at least with all the usual toys turned on. This has the effect of you driving around dragging a dead-ish heavy lump of a battery, which doesn't help your overall fuel economy. Ideally you fully charge the car and use the satnav as the car will determine how to use the EV side in conjunction with the ICE and meter it out so you finish your journey with zero charge and maximum MPG. Then of course you have a flat battery and if you are away from home, you need to find a charger again (at great cost) and this brings me to the other miserable 'feature', charging speed! Boy, or girl, is it slow! Because the car uses a 300V architecture, it charges quite slowly not helped by an inbuilt inverter that limits you to 16amps, so the assumed 10KwH of available charging required (a couple of KwH is reserved for the cars general running, (things like heating etc) in reality turns out to be nearer 11Kwhs or more, due to inefficacies of charging and takes around 3.5 hours or so. It's basically a pain. In reality, the car has been driven around with a flat traction battery for much of it's life :( The massive discount I got when purchasing the car on PCP (£17K) has meant crippling poor residual. My car is in negative equity to the tune of around £2-3K. Luckily the benefit of PCP/HP protects you from this burden. So my thoughts overall are these. It's a great car to own, except for the above and the fear that the extraordinary complexity of operation in its drivetrain, will lead to a very expensive vehicle for future owners somewhere down the road. To see graphics of the car running in real time, switching a combination of engine, front electric motor, rear electric motor or any combination of the above, coupled with recharging off the front motor, rear motor or ICE (which it does regularly) beggars belief. It works seamlessly, but it is terrifyingly clever to watch operate and hence when it goes wrong, it will rival brain surgery in its difficulty to repair. The car would have been a better fit for me if it had been simply a 1.6 litre engine with a simple 4x4 facility. Certainly would have been lighter. I think I can recommend this model as a great value one, just avoid the PHEVs if you travel around a bit. My replacement car is a petrol one, has teeny bit of mild hybriddy, 4x4 and at least on the motorway, is much more economical. It's ride quality however, is a polar opposite. I'm going to check the transport chocks haven't been left in :D

Also, putting B4s on because they’re less likely to be noticed by a mechanic is way off the track when it comes to priorities. If you’re going to spend out on the car to improve, do it because it will improve it effectively, not because it might work but no-one is likely to spot it. Looking back, go with the B6 and enjoy.

Not obd11 or similar tool can do that. Tuners remaping tools do. Few months ago i do remapping fow few more hp and Nm, payed 400€, tuner offer me act off for another 50€, i refused. Now i regret, now act off alone is 150€ But REVO remap solved little rabbit issues, also i dont have any issues with ACT (yet) https://www.onlyrevo.com/product-details/software/skoda/karoq-nu-2018/341/stage-1

I'd start by suspecting the battery. Those voltage readings are below spec.

If the engine is running well apart from the coolant/oil problem and if its just the head gasket then I would replace and not go any further unless I had to. If you are removing head then get it checked for flatness before refitting in case its warped. I would check the oil cooler again first. Its 1.5 years old and I find even OEM parts dont last as long so could be failing. Hope you get it sorted Alasdair

Sold my Kodiaq last month which proved to be the best car I've owned. Have owned the four big VW group manufacturers now, and despite them being basically the same car underneath, without doubt Skoda have been the most impressive. In the coming weeks I'll write a review of each Skoda I've owned and add some real-world figures rather than what professional motoring hacks or armchair experts tell you. Hopefully it'll help someone decide if they're in the market for such a car. So why not another new Skoda? Well that's easy. I much prefer to buy my car rather than lease it. The Skodas I've owned have gone from fantastic to outstanding value for money, however despite hefty discounting, I couldn't make the figures work on another brand new car. One thing I loved about Skoda was the std equipment levels, and if I wanted extras, I could easily option them, but then their marketing changed and Skoda followed others by introducing packs. Because these packs only contain one of my desired options, it meant paying for lots of equipment that I didn't want. Add several different packs and the price skyrockets. And then there's the cost of individual options. A sunroof on a Kodiaq now costs an eyewatering £1850. That's substantially more expensive than other VW group manufacturers ask for the exact same sunroof on their models. Long story short, I gave up the idea of buying another SUV and went back to an estate but even on Octavia, they want £1700 for a sunroof. That's just insane for a brand that peddles value. Why not a nearly new Skoda? Skoda seem to be holding back on std equipment these days meaning I need options, but given the price of these, I find very few cars with the options I want. Or rather, I can't find a single car with the options I want. And when you do find one with a good number of options, well... the cost is often more than a brand new car after discounts. Another Octavia? It's a great car however what it isn't is a luxury car. (Neither is a Superb in my book.) When I do spec up an Octavia ( not even a Vrs ) it lists over £40k, the luxury tax threshold meaning an additional £425 a year in tax. That would bug me everytime I drove it. Skoda still works brilliantly in lower trim levels but their higher trim cars no longer make sense - not for me anyway. The best thing I can say about the Skodas I've owned, especially the kodiaq is I normally change my car every two or three years. In 40 years of owning many cars, there are only four I've kept for over 3 years: Golf GT 2007 ( 3.5years ) Octavia SEL estate 2017 ( 4 years ) Karoq Edition 2019 ( 4 years ) Kodiaq Sportline ( 5 years ) And I'd have been happy to have kept that Kodiaq until it became economically unviable, it was that good. Best wishes to everyone and good luck with your Skoda.

If the oil is too diluted by Derv / Diesel which is also Oil that is not a good thing. (How VW Group used to cheat the NEDC in Audi, VW. Seat diesels...Dilute the engine oil.) You will see soon enough that the Diesel in the Oil will not Burn off. Change the OIl & filter IMO.

Bumped for those that want to know about setting valve clearances, see video in previous post and more info in posts before it.

Hi all, Well, one more for the road? After the front brake pads, here are the rear ones... :warning: DISCLAIMER: Do not attempt this operation if you do not feel capable. This deals with the brakes! It is necessary to access several vehicle control units using VCDS (diagnostic tool to perform the work correctly)! This is only a the story of my own experience on this subject. I do not require or encourage anyone to do the same. I accept no responsibility in case of problems. I do not guarantee the absence of typos or errors! :warning: Here is a new tutorial to replace rear brake pads on a Kodiaq Mk1. To begin, here's the system: Only guide rods #16 need to be removed. There's no need to replace them. Required tools: - Flathead screwdriver to remove the covers #17 - 7mm Allen key for the guide rods #16 - Flat pliers for the spring #8 - High-temperature grease (graphite or copper / not even a pea-sized amount for each pad) - G-clamp and wooden block (or piston retraction tool) to push the piston back - Brake cleaner spray - Fine sandpaper - 600 grit minimum - VCDS diagnostic tool Tightening torque: 35 Nm Step 1 - Preparation: - Turn the ignition on, engine off. - Release the electric parking brake. - Connect the VCDS diagnostic tool and go to 03 - ABS/Brakes > 02 - Basic settings. - In the drop-down menu, select Start Lining change mode. - With your foot off the brake pedal, click "Go!" and listen to the electric parking brake motors disengaging and wait for them to stop. At this point, it will beep repeatedly 😳, because several systems are malfunctioning: ABS / ESP / Rear Traffic / ACC, etc. 😱 and you might wonder why you didn't stay home and watch TV 😄! - Turn the ignition off. Step 2 - Removing old brake pads and installing the new ones: Next, as for the tutorial on front brake pads replacement, I wouldn't do better than this video which helped me a lot, even though I had already done it on my old Superb 3: What this video doesn't explain: - The necessary tools (see the instructions above) - The tightening torque (same) - The inner and outer brake pads are different (those with spring #11 are the inner pads). If any doubt, just take a look at the old pads. You'll see the pistons imprint on the inner pads anyway. - High-temperature grease should be applied to the tabs at the top and bottom of the pads to ease sliding in calipers (once you know this, you better understand what he's doing at ~4:55 and 5:25). - :warning: Before pushing back the first piston, and especially the second piston :warning:, it's best to check the brake fluid level in the tank to make sure it won't overflow. If necessary, remove some with a syringe to bring it close to the maximum level or just above. - :warning: Before restarting the engine and pumping the brake pedal :warning:, you must close the brake fluid tank; otherwise, it will definitely overflow. IMHO, the video is misleading on this point. - :warning: Before refitting the wheels :warning:, do not grease the threads of the wheel nuts (clean them with a metallic brush and blow them with an air compressor if possible). The Skoda workshop manual clearly states that grease should not be applied on the threads of wheel nuts. IMHO, here again, the video is misleading on this point. Step 3 - Exiting Maintenance Mode: Once the brake pads have been changed and your Kodiaq has been lowered to the ground, - Close the brake fluid tank and turn the ignition on (engine off). - Pump the brake pedal several times. - Connect the VCDS diagnostic tool and go to 03 - ABS/Brakes > 02 - Basic settings. - In the drop-down menu, select "End Lining change mode". - With your foot removed from the brake pedal, click on "Go!" and listen to the electric parking brake completing its learning cycle for the new stroke, taking into account the additional brake pad thickness. - With your foot on the brake, manually activate and deactivate the electric parking brake a few times using the button on the center console. - Run a complete scan using VCDS and clear all fault codes generated by entering maintenance mode (in each control unit containing a fault code, go to "02 - Fault codes", then click on "Clear Codes"). - Check the brake fluid level and top it up if necessary. That's it! :)

Definitely do the top mounts at the same time. Do you mean Superpro lower control arms? They won’t solve the bush issue if it’s the anti roll bar bushes.

Seeing as the suggestion that fitting a cabin air inlet grill from a VW Fox would help keep "stuff" out of the fan, I looked into this by using an online parts cat. The part number quoted, ie 5Z0 819 044, was used on later VW Fox, but, the part number 6Y0 819 044 A was used on earlier VW Fox - and was used on these Skoda Fabia up to at least 2020 - so these Fabias should have an air intake grill. This is just info for anyone thinking that buying a cabin air inlet grill is needed.

Hi all, Currently driving a 2019 SEAT Ibiza FR 1.0TSI (115). Have had this car from new and really like the TSI engine. As this car is close on 100,000 miles, I am considering replacing it with another VAG car (Fabia, Scala, Kamiq, Polo, T-Cross, Taigo). Unsure which one, but would want the 1.0 TSI engine again. Will start another thread with one or two questions. Thanks.

I’m down in the borders so nearest Škoda dealer is Arnold Clark Seafield Road Edinburgh. They were little to no use on the phone but I’m going to call them again tomorrow and hope there’s someone around who has a bit more of a clue. If not I will probably have to go Carlisle way. Obviously with a clutch issue I’m worried it won’t be covered under warranty as it may be deemed wear and tear even at 18k miles. Škoda assist have said they would provide a hire car but I don’t want to end up footing a large cost for this alongside garage repairs if not covered by my warranty.

Probably not the clutch but the Low miles has not meant plenty others having failures. @ronanh_ Where are you in Scotland and which Arnold Clark dealership is it? Probably best avoided. The clue being the Sign on the building. ARNOLD CLARK.

Thanks for your reply though. Actually when I looked again through the OBD11's Control unit 03 (Brakes), I found the correct commands in Basic settings. Maybe I should get my vision checked 🫣. For those of us who use OBD11 I found instructions from an OBDeleven forum thread In case of dead link I quote the actual instruction part of a post: Before you get started, please make sure your car battery is fully charged, if it's not; hook up a charger. The last thing you want to run into is a battery that doesn't deliver enough power to move the pistons when you are done replacing everything! Open the hood of your car. Plug in your OBDEleven dongle and turn the ignition ON (keep the engine OFF) Turn your electronic parking brake (EPB) ON and then OFF (you might need to put your foot on the brake to turn it back off) In the OBDEleven app navigate to the Control Units page and go to Brakes 03 Now click on "Basic settings" To open the pistons to replace your brake pads click "Start lining change mode" don't change any values in this tab and just send the coding by holding the checkmark in the app. Now the car will start making some noises, this is normal. Once the noises stop wait a few seconds and then turn the ignition off. Now replace your brake pads and/or disks. When you are done with replacing everything and everything is properly back together; Make sure the OBDEleven dongle is plugged into the car and the hood is open. Now turn the ignition ON (keep the engine OFF) Once again go to the Controls Units page and go to Brakes 03 Once again click on "Basic settings" Now in order to close the pistons again click "End lining change mode" don't change any values in this tab and just send the coding by holding the checkmark in the app. The car will now start making some noises again, wait a few seconds until it stops. Now turn your electronic parking brakes ON and then OFF again (you might need to put your foot on the brake to turn it back off) You are now done. If you start your engine all the errors in your dashboard should disappear within a few minutes. Take a test drive to see if everything works as it should.

This appears to be key. The contamination is unavoidable, and appears to be deemed "within tolerances" for successful regens. Repeated failed regens cause the problem. Having done >300km in a Pug which used the same regen system, I'm more relaxed. Now, the manual Pug encouraged shall we say, "spirited" driving. The Octa with DSG, winter, short trips doesn't, really. Still very quick off the mark, but still less , well, spirited. Anyway, I'll post a more logical summary if my research shortly! Thanks to everyone for their input.

Hi there, most OBD scanners will be able to do that, even cheap (10 EUR) ones. I'd say drive it a bit see if it goes away in a week, if not, check the web and product description for an OBD that can remove error codes As long as the brakes work, no worries about it.

The diesel in the oil will evaporate but obviously is less volatile than petrol so it will need a good long drive (45mins or so) where the engine oil ideally gets to the 100°C or so. As I’m sure you know diesel engines like to work and are slow to warm up for various reasons including their heavier construction and the fact there is no throttle plate etc.. so many short trips are going to increase the amount of fuel in the oil that is naturally washed down from bore by the rings and blow by.

Hi , I was written to by a northern Skoda dealer regarding both gearbox oil change and cambelt change.

Hi, Sorry, I've never used, nor even seen the OBD11 system. 🤷‍♂️

Oil sits high on the stick when hot/warm, a regen probably gets everything warmer but I don't know how far back (er, forward) but that's the thing these regens will take a good while if previous regens have failed to complete successfully. For a good number of years diesels are sold to or bought by people who may not use them in a way must suitable to the most efficient running of the car, you may or may not be one of these people. I've not heard of this fill 200ml below to allow for failed regen but when my wife had our one and only diesel these DPF weren't on it and it was an over complicated VW brand car. Doing regens on the road can b e hard at times as you can't meet the requirements need, you can do a forced (or wotever its called) regen with a scan tool but you don't want to be parked on dry grass apparently things do get very hot. You need to get the regen done then make sure you get regular successful regens after. Despite diesel being so dirty some bits of it do need to be reasonable clean engine oil being one and I favour at least occasional use of the city? cleaner (😁) diesel fuel like Shell V-Power certainly two tankfuls before, during, after a service and/or MoT. The engine air filter being so clean doesn't matter apparently but it also doesn't want to like like a coal miner's handkerchief. I think I might get the regen done successfully then change engine oil and filter (well get shot of the car really) but I could well be wrong. Good luck let us know how you get on.

BCM (onboard supply control unit in terminology of the time) at the top. Don't worry about CAN wires on the right, they're just shown for information, no need to add or touch those.

Hi everyone, I haven't posted a topic in a while. After 12 years, it was time to replace the Xenon bulbs. I wanted more white beam instead of factory yellow. Philips has DS3 Xenon White Vision Gen 2 5000K, and it's perfect! No coding needed, no errors. The beam is much better outside the city at night. Here is a quick video on how to replace yours. No tools necessary.

Good point - I think I may have had my backpack on the front passenger seat on the way in……

Will stick the wiring info up here in a bit, just got to do something for the next hour or so. Pin 6 of the red 11-way connector at the firewall seems to be the way through to engine ECU. Think I've got the bits to make up all the wiring somewhere.

Ahhh ****, I did this twice in my driving experience - approx 15 years with diesels. They need to completely drain the tank and change the fuel filter. Then to inspect the fuel filter for metal shavings. The main problem with the petrol in the diesel engines is the lack of lubricity in it. In the non-CR diesel engine I would add small amount of 2T ashless oil, but in the modern ones - no. A decent mechanic should check the values of low and high pressure fuel pumps( the one in the tank and in the engine bay). Also listen for whining noises from HPFP. Injector values as well. 3-4 minutes most likely didn’t cause any issues, but triggered errors for sure. So maybe clear them, drive from cold to fully warm engine and see are there new errors. Injector values should be check when cold and once again after the engine reaches operating temperature. Good luck 👍

09/09/06

Should be OK I think. Do you know what date it was built? I think the pin number at the firewall changed at some stage, possibly at facelift. Can look up if you know production date. BCM needs to have a part number starting 6Q0 or 6Q1, I think, which you can read off a VCDS scan if you have one?

If the head is removed and there are no signs of head gasket failure then it could be a cracked block but very unusual unless its been totally cooked or perhaps frozen. You say the oil filter housing was replaced. Did that include oil cooler? Alasdair

This is incredibly useful info thanks! At least I can sort of expand my search now

You need to be a few meters away and it will lock. You can see that from the mirrors or at least the turn signal lights. It needs to be enabled in the car menu, search for kessy. I believe by default is on.

Don't have a Fabia, but this happened on my Superb due to a blocked sunroof drainage channel. Your alarm problems are likely due to water getting at connectors/computer module under the passenger seat. Like you, I read that it might be water ingress around the scuttle/pollen filter so: Windscreen wiper arm removal - back off the nuts at least a couple of turns, and then it's just a push-fit into the spines on the fitting - use a coin and a mole grip to push them off (add a couple of drops of penetrating oil/WD40/whatever and leave for 30 mins if this proves difficult) Scuttle cover removal - obvious fasteners on the front, but it's just a tight push-fit into the channel by the windscreen, so you can lift it. May be quite hard to lift an initial corner, but it will go. Pick whichever side is easiest to start with and work inwards from that. Mine was also a bit brittle from UV exposure as it's lived outside for ten years; take care you don't tear the plastic. Cleaned it all out as there was some blockage, but nothing sufficiently incriminating, though. Figured out it was the sunroof drains, so pulled the A-pillar trim off, disconnected at the scuttle end, cleaned them both out properly and reassembled. Drying it out: Unlikely to need to remove door seals; the plastic sill trim may sit just under the lip of them, but you can pull it off from the lower interior side of it. It's just clipped in, except perhaps around the seatbeat anchor where you may need to unclip the two sections - elsewhere just yank it pretty much straight up and it'll click out; the clips are pretty robust. You can then peel up the edge of the carpet enough to get under it properly, at which point you will discover the soundproofing under it is extremely wet, and decide you need to invest in a wet & dry vac (e.g. from Screwfix) so you can pull out what will be a proper puddle of water from underneath it all. You will then decide that no dehumidifier/vac is ever going to be able to dry out what is essentially a sponge, under a carpet, in a drainage-less tray of wetness. :-/ You will then decide you need to remove the carpet and sound-deadening underneath it and dry it all out properly So I ended up: Removing both front seats and computer under the passenger one (this will be what's causing your alarm problems, probably) - needed to buy a dedicated triple-square (XZN) bit to do this (amazon) Removed rear seat squab (mostly just clips in, need to push hard downwards to disconnect the hooks under the back of it) Detached and lifted the center console, so I could get the entire carpet and sound-proofing matting out to dry them out. This took the most time by far. All in, took a whole afternoon to figure out how to get it all apart without breaking any clips or connectors, although it went back together easily enough. Shampooing the carpet and hanging it and the soundproofing mat over a climbing frame in the summer for a few days to dry it out properly. The soundproofing matting was utterly sodden and very heavy - literally litres of water poured out of the corners when I hung it up. I am certain it would never have dried out in the car in UK weather even at the height of summer, let alone this time of year.

Coming to the UK next year

Read on here someone with similar problems. They had an aftermarket radio that for some reason was stopping scanner connecting to obd port. Ai came up with this which I think is correct. Not sure re fuse number Troubleshooting Steps: Check Fuse 12: Check the fuse box on the driver's side dashboard; fuse 12 (top section) is critical for OBD functionality. Remove Aftermarket Radio: A common issue in VAG cars is that aftermarket radios bridge the diagnostic K-Line, preventing tool communication. Pull the radio out and try the scanner again. Test for Power/Ground: Use a multimeter to check for 12V12 cap V 12𝑉 at Pin 16 and a solid ground at Pin 4 of the OBD port. Inspect Connector: Ensure the port is firmly attached to the dash and pins are not pushed back. Try Another Scanner: Ensure the scan tool is compatible; some cheaper tools fail to link on older VAG models. If the port has no power, the issue is typically a fuse or power wiring; if it has power but no communication, focus on the radio or a faulty ECU.

In my experience, the technician won't bat an eyelid. I put B6's on mine with a month of buying it, and had 2 or 3 rounds of warranty work over the next 12 months with not a word said. If it's specifically suspension related then they might kick up a fuss, but realistically they'd be loudly proclaiming wear and tear anyway.

should have been November 2023 my mistake

Quick thoughts. Half an hour wouldn't be enough if the DPF really needed a blow out, and it's lower gear higher revs rather rev the nuts off you want the heat but this might not be a good idea if the car's dumping fuel into the oil and you don't know why. Can you borrow a scan tool to check the short term and long term fuel trims. What's the history of this 3 year old 75k-mile car, how many engine oil changes and any other servicing and maintenance work done or repairs or problems. Have you searched the forum for similar issue(s) on your particular engine. Have you checked for Recalls. Were there any comments about fuel in the oil that came out of the engine, was the triangle of doom and message mentioned t whoever done the oil change. I'm sure others than me will have better information and advice to give. Good luck.

so some changes have been made love a heated windscreen too https://www.youtube.com/shorts/WHukgLo5NrA

as radiator has only two connections top hose cannot get hot without warm water going from bottom hose and through radiator. I assume that if radiator is cold and top hose getting warm there is a premature opening of thermostat. It is unhealthy to sink thermostat in the boiling water. I would rather buy two three wahler behr vernet and compare opennings in the pot to chose the narrow one. I replaced thermostat recently. Im driving to my work 4km without warming up. Hand goes to 90'C after 3km. While there is demand from heater core hoses never get warm so I assume big circuit remains closed.

This is the crystal LED matrix lights? If so, then it doesn’t switch everything down to dipped headlights, it switch off small sections of the high beam. Which also moves as the car’s heading towards you move. It’s really clever. I’ve sat behind a mate on the motorway with it on and he said it didn’t notice at all.

DSG oil change using @Bap33 's excellent guide, £69.74 for a Febi service kit from eBay and £7.19 for the filling hose and 14mm hex key needed from AliExpress.

Just on space, we have a 7 year old Karoq and a 3 year old Kamiq. We regularly travel to France, and now take the newer Kamiq. While the boot is slightly smaller we still manage to pack the same amount in and the mpg is far better, often 500 on a full tank.

In case anyone in future has this issue, it seems, at the moment, to have been fully resolved. The supplying dealer paid for the car to go to Skoda for investigation, fault clearing and software updates etc. Since i collected it this morning and have driven it around, it all seems to be sorted 🤞

I use one of these suction fitting on the dash-box lid, adds a little weight but still operable. Phone holder sits just over the top right corner of the RH vent. Been there for 2 months and hasn't come loose yet

Thankfully having tried it in this snowy and icy weather it would appear it is heated despite it being a replacement at some point in its life.

In 11:38 shows where: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0gn1whSHaOA&t=698s

Nearly all things that you turn on will turn off or set back to the default when you stop the engine. 10 Tips on How to Use Air-conditioning Properly - Škoda Storyboard

I had this problem a few weeks ago. I booked the car in for a service, only to be told that the leasing company wouldn't authorise it, as it wasn't due. Apparently, the garage that serviced it last time, didn't reset it properly - it should have been on variable. Anyway, the garage said the leasing company wouldn't let them reset it - I'm guessing there would be a charge - so told me to contact the leasing company, which I did. They sent me the instructions, which worked.