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SORTED! The battery has been replaced and the car is back on the road 👍 Cheers all!

🤣Yes, well, back to the case in hand! So, after a bit of reading, it looks as if the situation is a bit like this: Basically, fuel in the oil is an inevitable fact of life for anyone driving a car with a diesel engine, a DPF and a "post-injection" system for regenerating the DPF. The "post-injection" bit basically means pumping fuel into the cyclinder during late-phase power or exhaust strokes to pump it down the exhaust to the DPF where it bursts into flames and cleans 'said DPF. Inevitably some of that fuel washes down the cylinder wall, past the piston rings and into the sump. Failed regens lose no more fuel than successful ones, by the look of it, but it's the re-tries that kill you - simply the number of re-tries. So, yes, the level in the sump will go up after every regen and much more obviously so after 10 or so failed regens in rapid succession! So, does it get burnt off? Well I think we all know the answer to that; there is no active method of recovering the fuel and "burning it off". However, there is some support for the theory that if the oil/fuel mix gets hot enough (100°C or so) for long enough (guessing hours rather than minutes) on a long run, then the diesel being lighter than the lub oil will evaporate first, and the vapour will be syphoned off by crankcase breather/ recycler scavenger systems that might be fitted. What proportion of the fuel is removed via this process is open to debate. Does it impair the oil? On a binary scale, certainly. On a more graduated scale, the quality of lub oil degrades with usage, so there must be some degree of degradation that can be tolerated without unduly damaging the engine. One would think. Particularly if allowing fuel to leak into it is a "design feature". So, yes it still impairs the oil, but hopefully within acceptable/ tolerable limits. So what do we think happened to my car? Well, it was due an oil change, so was probably carrying a fair load of fuel in oil, which triggered the overfill warning just before the oil change. The oil was changed and topped up to the full mark. It being the depths of winter, short days, short, slow journeys, etc., a regen or two later, a finnicky sensor kicks off. There are no fault codes that would suggest a failed regen, and the amount of "overfill" visible on the dipstick is, well, invisible! Armed with that background, absence of fault codes and the knowledge that the dealership I spoke to acknowledge the situation by filling to slightly shy of full, we've dropped 300ml of oil, and will keep a close eye on it. If the same warning comes back in short order, oil and filter change again (groan) and then we've got some more serious diagnostics to do. Thanks to everyone for their thoughts and advice.

Update on this window/central locking snag..... I was replacing the clutch before Christmas and upon removing the battery box I spotted a cable from the fuse box on the positive terminal with a corroded 1 inch air gap. (Photo below) Since repairing the cable there has been no faults windows and locks are back to normal. I even had the dash tell me things I never had previously.

This MIB3.5 in mk4fl, different than MIB3, which this thread is about. MIB3.5 has OTA (over the air) update. No need to update manually with usb drive

... is a... ??? C'mon, spill, don't keep us waitin' When I bought my vRS, back in 2015, it was a bit crashy. Yep, sure enough, transport blocks were still there 🙄 Gaz

A deep dive so only for those interested

We charged it yesterday adding 39kwh and it took 12hrs 51mins. It was also charged on the 23rd adding 61 kwh and took 10hrs 13 mins.

Just to give an update on the mileage. We are now at 5000 miles and 3 months of ownership and when the battery is fully charged it shows ~240 mile range. Admittedly we are in the depths of winter and short days so the likes of heated seats, steering wheel, cab heater, headlights etc are on pretty much all the time so I'm hoping the range will improve once the weather does. We also run in individual mode so sport suspension and steering as the normal suspension is too wallowy imo. I suppose if you drive in Eco you could attain 300 miles from 100% battery. One thing we have found though is that the Elroq will charge very quickly when charging from a Tesla super charger... and yes you can use them by downloading the Tesla app (if you want more info as to how to do it let me know). The battery charged from 10% to 100% in 35 mins. It is a bit of a PITA when charging with Tesla as you'll need to straddle 2 bays so think and choose wisely when using them. The Tesla app will also tell you which super chargers will accept none Teslas. There are some parts of the infotainment I'd like to see improved on such as changing from one primary phone to another and hanging up from a call (we found you can answer by pressing the right scroll button on the steering wheel) and the comfort access is a pain the the backside but apart from that the car is great.

My wife has a 2004 Fabia VRS Mk1 1.9PD in red, which she has had from 6 months old (belonged to the Skoda dealers wife before she bought it). She has decided to give up driving due to poor health and eyesight, so we are reluctantly looking to sell it but have no idea of what value to put on it. It has just over 36000 genuine miles on the clock and has service history. We are getting a new MOT on it next week and it is absolutely original as it left the factory. New tyres fitted recently and a new battery last year. It has some scuffing on the alloys and the paintwork is not perfect but there is absolutely no rust. There is an unused set of VRS floor mats to put back inside. Oh and the drivers door microswitch needs replacing. If any of your guys could give a view on what price we should put on it, I would really appreciate it. Thanks in advance. Dave

As per title, the PCP on my Peugeot 3008 PHEV, is coming to an end in the next couple of weeks (technically I am Voluntary Terminating the PCP a month early) and I'm sad that the car didn't work out as well as I hoped. The car itself is great. It was pretty faultless whilst I had it, although it suffered well over a month unable to be used, after I blew a tyre out in a pothole one rainy Manchester evening. Turned out there were no comparable tyres in the country. I tried every avenue, including Peugeot themselves, but it was a big "no" from everyone. But that aside the car was very reliable - oh and the tyres are freely available now Good points The interior, which is a really nice place to spend time. Anyone remembering Peugeot from the 80/90/00s would be surprised by the quality and general style of the thing. They have gone down a contentious route of placing the speedo display above the eye-line of the steering wheel. I didn't even notice on the test drive and found it natural and worked brilliantly, others disagree The switchgear, especially the metal piano key buttons are a tactile delight and massage seats were a fun option that I rarely used. The only thing missing in the spec was a sunroof (I don't like them anyway) and wireless Android Auto/Apple carplay. This is easily fixed with a cheap Amazon dongle that plugs into the car in place of your phone connection and works seamlessly as a conduit for wireless operation. Great fix The ride quality is great, as the car is quite softly sprung (remember those days when cars were just so, I'm looking at you, you naughty stiff German cars). It does roll a fair bit in corners, but I quite enjoyed the challenged of keeping speed up on a cross-country blast, it was much more of a challenge than regular modern cars, especially VAG, BMW and their ilk. The gearbox was an 8 speed slushmatic and worked really well, even if the flappy paddles were connected to the gearbox via a dialup modem. Also, suprisingly, the performance could be described as quite brisk in a straight line and quite scary in a combination of challenging corners. This is because, quite incongruously, my 3008 had a 1.6 petrol engine and two electric motors. This gave a limited power of 300bhp! So the car could certainly pick up its heels and head off like a scaled cat (well, comparatively speaking). Not so good points and the main reason the car was a disappointment. The PHEV bit! I admit the car was an experiment for me but as it turned out, the real world running costs, mainly the economy, were a big disappointment. Ok, I could charge at home, but my job entails that I needed to charge the car many, many times away from home. At this point it becomes very expensive and I would have been better off buying a standard 2.0 petrol car in this regard. Another issue is range. Peugeot claim "up to" 39 miles of electric range, but in reality low 20s is your lot in summer and less than this in winter, at least with all the usual toys turned on. This has the effect of you driving around dragging a dead-ish heavy lump of a battery, which doesn't help your overall fuel economy. Ideally you fully charge the car and use the satnav as the car will determine how to use the EV side in conjunction with the ICE and meter it out so you finish your journey with zero charge and maximum MPG. Then of course you have a flat battery and if you are away from home, you need to find a charger again (at great cost) and this brings me to the other miserable 'feature', charging speed! Boy, or girl, is it slow! Because the car uses a 300V architecture, it charges quite slowly not helped by an inbuilt inverter that limits you to 16amps, so the assumed 10KwH of available charging required (a couple of KwH is reserved for the cars general running, (things like heating etc) in reality turns out to be nearer 11Kwhs or more, due to inefficacies of charging and takes around 3.5 hours or so. It's basically a pain. In reality, the car has been driven around with a flat traction battery for much of it's life :( The massive discount I got when purchasing the car on PCP (£17K) has meant crippling poor residual. My car is in negative equity to the tune of around £2-3K. Luckily the benefit of PCP/HP protects you from this burden. So my thoughts overall are these. It's a great car to own, except for the above and the fear that the extraordinary complexity of operation in its drivetrain, will lead to a very expensive vehicle for future owners somewhere down the road. To see graphics of the car running in real time, switching a combination of engine, front electric motor, rear electric motor or any combination of the above, coupled with recharging off the front motor, rear motor or ICE (which it does regularly) beggars belief. It works seamlessly, but it is terrifyingly clever to watch operate and hence when it goes wrong, it will rival brain surgery in its difficulty to repair. The car would have been a better fit for me if it had been simply a 1.6 litre engine with a simple 4x4 facility. Certainly would have been lighter. I think I can recommend this model as a great value one, just avoid the PHEVs if you travel around a bit. My replacement car is a petrol one, has teeny bit of mild hybriddy, 4x4 and at least on the motorway, is much more economical. It's ride quality however, is a polar opposite. I'm going to check the transport chocks haven't been left in :D

I'll see if they get mentioned in the workshop manual. Cheers.

No idea Mike, I’m on Aran if that helps?

Check your fuses. The fuse will normally pop before the motor does. Also bear in mind that just because the top of the tank's thawed, the bottom might not be.

Thanks Evolution 13 I didn't check on the water pump (I'll confirm with them), but it was done a 3 years back. I had an issue with intermittent coolant loss (that stumped 2-3 garages), I was able to trace to a blocked heater matrix by using this forum.

Because that's a new version of the infotainment system, so I'd leave it alone. Also I don't think that the 1989 is compatible with it either, so the old adage of "If it ain't broke don't fix!" applies.

I reckon she's back to a Vitara...

98% TPMS antennas from Ali are fake

V12 BMW 🤷‍♂️ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AbIGZrpXJlk

The location of the OBD socket is shown in the 1st photo in my posting. I took the 2nd photo myself using a phone in selfie-mode pointing upwards from the depths of the driver-side footwell and that's why it looks peculiar. The photos originated here. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/523363-obd2-socket-in-fabia-mk4/#comment-5850034 My iMac desktop is 2010-vintage and its operating system and applications software are well out-date and cannot to updated further. The machine is slow and can be 'techy' but, most of the time, adequate for what I need and, of the several forums I participate on, only posting images to the BRISKODA forum presents difficulties. If I wanted to I could side-step this by using my current-model iPad instead, but it's harder work (and my wife hogs it!) As a Moderator on a forum that runs on the same platform as the BRISKODA forum, I've got many more privileges and I can play about with and delete my own postings without leaving a trace. I'm reluctant to experiment on the BRISKODA forum to find a work-around for my photos/images issue as it would inevitably leave 'dirty footprints'.

Deffo battery. Mine was the same. Just on 12v but not enough power to start car. Loads of clicking and christmas tree dash. Chec its charging ok when you replace battery. 12V is only about 25% charge and probably has no reserve. I suspect a bad cell. Alasdair

@whitedot , absolutely not a problem, I just spotted that posting and wondered if my wife's 2015 VW Polo might benefit from me buy one. Due to my local VW dealership being a bit "out of the way", I searched and found a couple of sellers on ebay, but the shipping from Germany made me dig deeper before committing to buy one, then I discovered that the earlier version, which is claimed to be fitted to Fabias and early VW Fox cost a lot more than the version fitted to later VW Fox version - then I checked the VW parts cat and noticed that my wife's 2015 Polo probably had a different style of angled cabin air intake complete with grill.

Hiya, Thanks for that i will have a read through it and see ehay helpful bits there, thank you!

dont be such a pesimistic. i buyed mostly all the parts, just alternator pulley and exhaust camshaft bolt not yet.. i also buyed tool from this video. i dont need 1000-2000€ for this. i get some parts on ebay, some on local stores, all INA, pump and oil separator are original. all this was 600€, tool 200€. i have small garage with mechanic tools. people around the world drive 1.5 tsi engine, less part of them are not much wise not to invent similar timing machine which is 7x cheaper. only need digital inclinometer, it comes with tool, other parts are analog. if it is not good i have professional Mitutoyo inclinometer one at work. watch this video, and it is in Germany.

If a 7 kW charger is giving 6.6 kW then 66 kW takes 10 hours, and 89 kW will be maybe 14 - 15 hours. If 7 hours Cheap tariff and actually getting 7 kW then that is 49 kWh.s charged.

What @dsgman is attempting to warn you of is that the 1.5 ACT engine requires specialist (and expensive) locking equipment to maintain correct valve timing. There are many references in this forum where the cambelt change on 1.5ACTs has been done incorrectly.

Hi there, I see this thread turned to a discussion about something not related. You might want to check these 2 threads, I'm not sure if I got this right, but seems to be a PHEV thing. https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/535297-phev-charging-and-preheating/ https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/536849-heating-when-stationary/ The start/stop function it by default on, turning off your engine when certain conditions are met. However, whn disabling it, the engine starts right away. I do not know how PHEV is supposed to function in this regard, though from what I remember seeing in different videos, you should be able to choose what you use, battery or engine. If not, another member pointed out that you can just not charge it and the engine will have to start. Another thing to consider is that in modern engines, warming up the engine is not really a thing. These new engines use a thinner oil, so it is not the same as 20 years ago, still you need to drive gently until the engine warms up. Idling can do more harm, especially to your health, as you will get exhaust gases into the cabin, plus it can also be prohibited in some parts and it's a waste of gas/money. Best!

Hi , I would suspect that you have the DADA engine with cylinder cut off ( 2 cylinders close down ) I will put money on it you will mess up the engine timing ! See what replies you receive from other members

Together with a buffing wheel a polished bar could help more than plain wheel. An example:

Hi imart143 , Unwise unless you have all the electriconic Skoda equipment.

Yep, got one coming

I'm in the Manchester area. If the car is plugged in then it is preconditioned when cold. If it isn't then I don't precondition it.

Is it under any waranty if you didnt buy it from skoda dealer? Alasdair

From my archive:

Before skimming head check its possible. If it is warped some modern engines cant be skimmed by much due to fine tolerances (sons landrover td5 being one) and may also need a thicker head gasket. As for the oil cooler I think the simplest way is to remove and pressurise with air and submerge in water and look for leaks/bubbles. You could also check EGR cooler if the engine is removed the same way. Alasdair

Thanks for this mate. I've got a battery I can put in tonight to see if that solves it. I'll keep you posted 👍

To replace it yourself see https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=cmuF21KrB8w

I'm wondering how they're going to do this when the mechatronic itself is in oil? 🤔 It shares the same oil with the DSG clutches. Or am I in mistake and there is a way this to be done?

If u only want power, u don't need to use the USB hub splitter. U just need a USB port that fits in the blank dummy spot and source the 12V power from somewhere. The USB hub splitter is too much effort for just power. If u want data and power, then yes, u need the hub.

I managed to find a plug in usb charger and cable combo that means you can use the rear cigarette lighter and route cable through without having to hardwire anything based on JR RS’s solution. All from AliExpress Wireless CarPlay adapter: https://a.aliexpress.com/_EIJNn2y USB charger https://a.aliexpress.com/_EJxMn5K USB cable (they do usb c or lightning version) https://a.aliexpress.com/_EI3QUyc https://a.aliexpress.com/_EJh2LN6 The wireless dongle was a bit clunky to set up put works really well considering the price. Touchscreen is smooth and responsive, Slight delay in audio when you make changes but is only noticeable when skipping or changing track. It’s small enough to allow you to have the sliding door closed over the top. And connects automatically within a few seconds each time you get in the car. For the rear charger you can still open and close the ashtray with it all in situ. If you take the ashtray out you can follow the existing cables and there are holes under the felt in the armrest for the cable to come out of. The shape of the cable also allows rear seat passengers to still use the usb A port on the charger too. And you can open and close the ashtray with it all in situ.

At the risk of getting moaned at again for thread drift (again) you do have to be like my good self for a Spridget, slim, athletic and young. Thinking about it now I don't think we were ever in the area in a MG though there were a few in the group (multi-marque club). I can remember on one of the tour there was a note on the route in Bowland that said at a particular point if you looked to the left you'd see the coast or Blackpool or something, it of course wasn't a clear day. that tour or another we were supposed to have a short tour or talk and lunch at the the nuclear place but it got cancelled, I don't think that was my fault. Our tour organiser was part of the Wigton Motor Club and managed to get our little bumble on the same weekend as the RAC? National Rally stage in the area which normally isn't allowed but our paths were apart. Going along a nice single track road and I heard the sound of something mighty meaty and before I knew round the bend came a Group N? I froze taking up the whole road and without the slightest hesitation it went up the bank and by me before I knew almost blowing my doors off with its exhaust noise. Fabulous. It was going off script between garage points I think so we put it down as a figment of my imagination, and my good luck. I think it must have been on Tesco 99. 😃 20 something year old cars in the 1990s, both used for work and pleasure, after, not before, I bought the BGT I discovered I liked drop tops. My wife drove the B on the day of the photo and when I said at first tea/pee stop she was dropping back a bit she said at one point she had to drop a gear as the car seemed sluggish, I had a quick look, felt the rear wheels and suggested she might not have fully released the handbrake, the B reportedly went better after this, cleared the drums a bit at least. 😄 (teal blue, Henlys, local garage ("British Racing") Green)

Way, way too low with just ignition on - 8 volts is even too low while the engine is being cranked! Also check for loose terminal connections while testing the battery.

You have room for a hip in the Bs. 😄 Scruffy don't matter it's how it goes (and should be going (used) and driven (as designed to be driven. In the Midget I promised not to overtake a single B, I'd always overtake them in pairs, not difficult and necessary with most B drivers. 😁 I can't remember having any leaks in the Bs but my memory isn't the best. Done a tour or two up or near there but never been to that pub which suggests it didn't have well served real ale there or it was shut when we were near. MG TwatNav -

🤣 Would love Tartan or Damask chrome, but I am beholden to a slightly scruffy, but mechanically good '78 GT. She did Toulouse in '24, broke my hip last year, so need to start warming her up again! So 8/10 for Sherlock Skills! I think she might have instilled the idea you might need to persist beyond a warning light... Whether that's a good position to take in this day and age is debatable! 🤣

Probably not the clutch but the Low miles has not meant plenty others having failures. @ronanh_ Where are you in Scotland and which Arnold Clark dealership is it? Probably best avoided. The clue being the Sign on the building. ARNOLD CLARK.

Not obd11 or similar tool can do that. Tuners remaping tools do. Few months ago i do remapping fow few more hp and Nm, payed 400€, tuner offer me act off for another 50€, i refused. Now i regret, now act off alone is 150€ But REVO remap solved little rabbit issues, also i dont have any issues with ACT (yet) https://www.onlyrevo.com/product-details/software/skoda/karoq-nu-2018/341/stage-1

My oem were little worn out so yes it is slightly difference, but if compare new and new - similar shock. In description says B4 are oem replacements. That was what i need. On front i put Sachs also oem replacement.

Lower dash trim removal on right side should give enough access. BCM is above accelerator pedal, firewall connectors up deeper behind. The firewall connectors are a pain to access from cabin side.

I replaced mine at 110,000 made a big change to the gear shift got a Skoda dealer to do it so don't know what type of oil they used. Now at 150,000 with no problems.

Are you getting this on motorway or anywhere? I usually find the left hand lane on motorway you can get tramlinimg with all the lorry’s sinking in a bit

The constant engine speed does not mean accelerating hard to get it there.