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Lucky enough to get close to a Heron this afternoon........ Bluebells were out in force........ And bunnies everywhere!

(separate post due to size limitations) step 3 press the left button below the right hand scroller you changed it with in the above steps for 5 seconds and let go. voila the menu to reset. the button is the one with the left arrow and the little boxes on it I reset my oil service warning and now it is gone.

Good luck with that conversation. The dealer told me it was an all day job, which didn't make sense to me given the OTA process seems to be around an hour. However, a friend put me in touch with someone who's carried out the OCU update process and they agreed with the dealer: So you'll probably get into a conversation about who's going to pay for tech's time... Let me know how you get on. You may have more leverage given the message that @SiWaiting translated on his infotainment stating the update needs to be done to ensure correct functioning of the vehicle going forward...

Thanks for all the replies and advice. Took it back the garage that serviced it a week ago and they found that, where they'd put the air filter housing back on they'd taken the connecting pipe off as well and refitted it without the required o ring (lost somewhere on the workshop floor). Profuse apologies and corrected with no fuss. All good now and driving like a dream again 😃

now that above post was usefull. howerever it works a bit different on a superb. after some faffing around i just found it. step 1 select the left hand instrument panel with the right side scroller by clicking it step 2 select the "total Distance" km/miles in there with the right side scroller by scrolling up or down

The language of this forum is English, if you want to have a private discussion please use PMs.

This works for an Octavia, so probably will also for a Superb: https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/538755-reset-oil-change/

So, Our Octavia 3 will be getting a Virtual Cockpit. I'd like to document this process a bit here. What's needed: Virtual Cockpit ---> Part number 5E0920790A Bezel ---> Part number 5E0919287 (subject to change) Additionally, if you want navigation in the VC and other features, you'll need to run a MOST cable from the VC to the 5F module. I bought a used one myself. But be aware, the process for adapting the instrument cluster has been made stricter for used units. You have to submit an application with the data from both the original and the new instrument cluster. The factory checks if it's stolen, etc. After hopefully receiving approval, the dealer can program it. Important: Always take all keys with you. For this conversion, I want to do the instrument cluster myself using an EEPROM dump. I can also do the mileage reading myself. This isn't possible with ODIS on used units. My only remaining issue is adjusting the CP. I'll have to wait and see if I can find the information in the dump. I'll let you know as soon as there's any news.

Hi all, I have had 2 x Karoqs and Im no stranger to Briskoda Karoq forum, but im new here! We will be passing on our trusty Fabia to my granddaughter in time, and to replace it I have gone for a 1.5l SE L DSG Kamiq in Moon White, picked a mid-spec and added bits and bobs that I want, missing out on some of the stuff I don't want/need. I did this with the 2018 Karoq I had, and the 2022 Karoq I still own. The Kamiq test drove OK, and has some updated stuff on it. We will keep the Karoq for now, but Im trying to give us the option to move to possibly just having one car in the future. I think at least one other forum member has both cars, from memory.

On a PD assuming your Fab is a vRS you need to watch for cam wear. Unless you have anything to gain maybe stick with 5w40 Quantum IMO LL3 the absolute best oil for Superb even at low miles.

@Evolution13 OP appears to be copy and pasting from a Microsoft Notepad or similar. I'll try and sort in a minute or ten. @mantasgaj can you not post directly into your replies?

I have not seen the error log/fault codes. I will have to get a garage to clear them and take it from there.

Mr Blackbird was busy.........

Are the pressures all correct if you stop as soon as you can when the warning shows. In a safe place. Check when hot that there is no sticking brake caliper or bearing going and the hub, wheel heating and a tyre expanding. The warnings are not always a loss of pressure / circumference.

Then I would suggest updating the Infotainment to the latest Firmware Version 1989

Thanks for your help. I’ll give it a try.

Interesting updates. I'm about to enter into dialogue with my dealer over this and haven't given up on pinning responsibility on Skoda yet. It is clearly a fault with the car's software, not a problem with the 3rd party towbar itself or associated wiring. The car doesn't actually know which make of towbar is fitted and all trailer wiring sockets have a standard configuration. It's just Skoda not wanting to provide updated software free of charge! Like others, I followed the advice of my Skoda dealer when using a 3rd party installer (being the only option available at the time) so Skoda can't deny any responsibility. Does anyone know if the Skoda towbar and associated coding change actually SOLVES the Proactive Passenger Protection System problem we have all been encountering?? It's entirely possible the problem remains with Skoda's towbar. I'm wondering what the motoring press will make of all this after showering tow car awards on Skoda for many years?

Experiment is over with. My other half would rather put up with a harder ride as the Monte Carlo wheels 'make the car look so much better' - she does have a point though. Anyway, I'll stick with the view of 'a 15% better ride on 16s' and put them on eBay !

@OldKaroq The new car should drive as you drive after you cover some miles and not like a demonstrator that some Dealership employees or potential customers drove it. Enjoy.

Thank you, that worked 💪

Hi Scotjimland I've just recently discovered this. Infact, Skoda Customer Service said that they couldn't help me, because it was an aftermarket towbar. I have also been informed that my only legal recourse, is against the aftermarket towbar installers. I could reject the towbar as not fit for purpose - Consumer Rights Act, statutory rights no. 10 I am still considering my next move.

@Alex707070 Have you got that burned out clutch from them yet that came off the car ?

3 thousand miles from one clutch to the next. The vehicle is in the dealership. I’ve written a letter. No call from then. They just sent a video and a bill. Unreal.

My car is due to go into the dealer to have the OCU updated in the next few weeks. They put me on 1941 a couple of years ago, and I never received any further infotainment updates. Similarly, since they put me on 1985, it hasn't ever prompted to install 1989, or for the OCU update to 0311 that this forum thread is discussing. I've spoken with another forum member who had their OCU update to 0144 a while ago, and they never received any pushes to take their infotainment up from 1985 to 1989. I'm thinking that maybe Skoda have a database of the capabilities of each vehicle as it left the factory. So even though an OCU maybe updated by a dealer to a newer version, which should enable additional features. It seems in reality this isn't happening. My guess would be that Skoda's own database would need to be updated to reflect the features available on a specific vehicle after an OCU update, and this isn't happening. This would be one explanation why after an OCU update infotainment updates aren't being pushed, remote lock/unlock and sending destinations via the app to the car are still not available.

First thing I'd check is the recently installed wiring bypass.

"New car smell for cyclists"

i didnt try that but dont recall an option to set it to a different schedule. But you can always try. I just wanted to get rid of the warning since i will get mine done with the overall service soon and it just annoyed me

I was able to read it in OCU module info using OBD11. Yesterday there was some other infotainment update that was installed successfully. No more popping noises or SOS faults so far. The car still wants to download the 03A8 update and I would like to download it too. It just takes so long that it never finishes the download process.

My previous Octavia 2.0 TDi (BKD engine) did not use any oil between annual services or 10,000 miles whichever came sooner. It was my company car from new in 2008 and I took it over on retirement. Total mileage when I traded it in last year was around 185,000 and it never missed a beat. My current 2016 vRS TDi (CUNA engine) seems to use around 0.5 litre oil in 500 miles. Mileage on car is 146,000, bought it last year and I am (I think) the 4th owner. That level of oil consumption is what I would classify as a "total loss" system and had I realised that, I would not have bought it. It regularly throws an exhaust heat sensor fault code which I am told by my trusted VW specialist workshop is nothing to worry about, so I cancel it using a cheap code reader from Amazon. I am now making the best of a bad job. I do like the car, it's comfortable, goes and stops quite well with EBC pads, handles nicely but I am constantly worrying about when it next throws a code and needs attention. Taking it to France next month and I do have Continental recovery.....

@Carlston might see this and comment. vRS Standard 'Sport' springs were stupid expensive a few years back, or there were the cheaper to buy 'option springs' (Dealer fitted Eibach. There were Monroes for the Twinchargers. 'SE3387' Front.

Hello, welcome to the forum. The Stop/start error is normal - SS is disabled if the MIL (check engine) indicator is activated. Hope you find a resolution soon for your initial fault.

I'm surprised more members haven't posted given the subject and forum. But some very good points about what's involved and the extremes of the vehicles, their costs and conditions they're used and kept in. Also their actual, perceived and emotional value by the car owner and person doing the actual work. The theatre of it all also gives an indication. Some might think a car used for motorway driving regularly and/or kept outside and not in a heated and dehumidified garage needs the cleaning more, others it doesn't and save such stuff for vehicles that are driven but also shown to others on the street or organised. It's also what level you are happy/bothered to keep the appearance to and at. I guess a 2011 Superb paint and other bits are about the same as a 2015 Fabia and I'm not bothered by the appearance of my wife's 2015 that has sat outside all its life and not got much cleaning or to a higher level (particularly when the Dealership cleaned it). I know some here wouldn't be at all happy with its level of appearance, even perhaps after they have cleaned, polished and detailed it. So as put, whoever owns the car, looks after it or pays for the work should do what pleases them. Whatever level you work to or achieve for some it will be too low and for others excessive. There might be a case if you can't be bothered with too much cleaning yourself to employ someone else a few times a year to a level that you are happy with but you must get recommendations and a quote as like all professions (and DIY) different people work to different standards and for professionals at different costs to you, in money, time and sometimes hassle. Good luck.

I'm not professionally trained, but I've cleaned a few vehicles. My day job for a few months was/is ceramic coating high-end motorbikes, but I've also done my fair share of 812s and GT3s. @travs has said it all. The only thing I would add is that I would personally give the tar remover-ed areas a thorough rinse. I'd also maybe add a stage 4.5 for the application of snow foam. This might be because I'm used to working in front of customers and the fallout looks pretty when mixed with the snow foam, but I do also like to use the snow foam as a lubricant to get into the seals and small areas with a detailing brush. As above, it doesn't need doing and it's probably just a habit I picked up from my work - after all, when some guy is watching you clean and strip his brand new Sartoria Meccanica Rush (near six-figure bike), you're going to pull out all the stops. That's probably why I bathe the wheels and brakes in fallout. Whoops. For a proper wash, do as above. For a top-up wash, I would personally do 1, 2, 3, 4.5, 5, 8 and 9. I've used drying towels very happily for years, however a dedicated dryer does make getting into the front grille and wheels much easier. This is the one I use and have used daily for months. The general idea is that you get as much of the stuff off the car before touching it with a mitt - taking a mitt over grit and the like is what causes scratches. Speaking of scratches - make sure the wash mitt is only ever used front to back. That way, if and when any scratches do occur, they are easier to remove than circular swirl marks. IIRC, both @travs and I use protection from polishes, but something like that is a bit beyond a complete beginner (not least because it requires a proper DA polisher - expensive). I do occasionally put a spray sealant (rinse aid) over the top of mine too. I would personally suggest something like Meguiars Hybrid Ceramic Wax - it's pretty easy to put on and offers a good few months of protection. Speaking of, TurtleWax Redline Wheel Cleaner is a decent beginner fallout remover option. It's pretty cheap from ECP and does the job. It's up to you how much effort you want to put in. My car doesn't get driven that much over winter and lives in a heated garage, so I can afford to go the extra mile in keeping it clean and tidy. Were it to live outside and get driven fifty miles on the M4 every day, I probably wouldn't bother. Similarly, if the car was brand new I would suggest a front end PPF and ceramic coating for everything else. In this instance, a lot of wear and tear has already been done. If it were me (and it's what I did with my car), I would get it paint corrected, stick a bit of protection over the top and then just be careful washing it in the future.

International Detailing Association trained and certified here and trained at UK Detailing Academy. You can do what you like, it’s you car but the general trends are based on research and understanding that changes and grows over time. Waterless/Rinseless products aren’t bad per se. They’re just not for this place. They were developed in California where there have been regular issues with water shortages and hosepipe bans. It’s not that it doesn’t do the job, it’s a shortcut that compromises on results because of the scenario it wasn’t developed for. Water-based products are simply better because they’ve been developed for longer by more companies. Generally the stages for cleaning: Rinse (remove obvious contaminants cheaply with water from your jetwash) Pre-wash (snowfoam, citrus - they don’t both need to be done, do it properly, do it once); very generous rinse here to use the prewash to get rid of contaminants Wheels/tyres - alkali/ph neutral cleaner is fine unless really burnt on nasty crusty brake dust then you’ll need an acid-based product. Iron fallout - start around the wheel on the body, if there is responding colour-change, spray a bit further along. If there is no indication by colour change, don’t bother doing more as the chances are low there will be any. Safe Contact wash - 2 bucket method is standard but there are single bucket methods. Tar remover - generally lower half of the car, starting behind the wheels. Clay if you’re going to polish. It creates marring damage in pulling out contaminants, so no point unless you correct it. Rinse low pressure to drag off spare water. Dry (air dryer and/or microfibre drying towel). Wash media is good quality clean microfibre - washmitt for cleaning, soft-tip brushes for panel gaps and corners, and microfibre towels for any. Delete stages as you don’t want them. Protective products can range from hand waxes, spray waxes, spray polymer waxes, hybrid ceramic and/or graphene waxes, ceramic coating, PPF.

Hi, to help others, tutorial how i activated Hill Hold on Scala my2020. Hw number: 2Q0614517N Sw number: 2Q0614517AP Based on info from obdeleven, coding is: Hill hold assist Module 03 Brakes Long coding Activate byte 47 - Bit 6 (was 0B, now 4B) Activate byte 51 - Bit 1 (was D0, now D2) But i couldnt get it enabled (function not available) Instead, i changed the 0B to 4B and D0 to D2 in the long code. After that i got Hill assist options inside adaptations, and got the HA running!

You need an ODIS / VCDS tool .

Yes that is correct, thanks.

I take it now you will want it set for Fixed Oil & Filter servicing so 12 months and a week / 9,400 miles and not on Variable if it is still set for that.

Hi, thanks for your quick responses. Firstly the car was bought as new in December 2024 and I took it for the first service a year later. At this time, the electronics were also updated. I have done just over 5000 miles from new. From what you say, I suspect that the service interval indicator was not correctly reset. Thanks for letting me know - I will get on to the garage.😀

Have you an aftermarket radio. Quite a few folks on here having trouble reading ecu etc. For some reason the after maaret radios affect can-bus and can stop any communication. If your pedal is going straight to floor I would suspect a bad master cylinder thats letting fluid past the seals or a major leak somewhere. Is the brake fluid level ok. Check the rear drums if fitted for signs of fluid at bottom as my sons mk1 wheel cylinders were shot and leaking fluid. Alasdair

I had the same problem, had to remove glovebox as the wiring was too short to remove the mediia unit.

For anyone else considering changing the 6u0611931D pipe and check valve... In the end I used a 12mm check valve from carbuilders along with 1m of 13mm vacuum hose and standard clips: https://www.carbuilder.com/products/aluminium-non-return-valve-12mm-2 https://www.carbuilder.com/products/heavy-duty-spring-band-hose-clamp https://www.carbuilder.com/products/vacuum-hose-13mm-id Worked fine. Removing the line from the booster is a bit fiddly without damaging the connection on the booster. I used a heat gun to warm up the old pipe so I could get it off relatively easily. Sadly, the issue remains so presume leak is in the booster itself but it was worth trying for the sake of £20 and 30mins of my time.

If you sign up for a service plan extended warranty is one of the included items.

It’s very strange that owners experiences can be so far apart. I’d have expected them to be quite similar. My used car experience has mirrored the new car experience in my vehicle use. In my younger years, the cars were driven harder faster for longer, carried more weight (3 kids/holidays in Europe and trips to from Germany/UK). Nowadays I drive a bit slower, do less miles about 10/11k per year, carry less weight in the car. What does remain the same is the regular oil changes at least 1 per year, more if it’s heavy mileage 16K plus. Any and all work is done as soon as it’s noticed, some by me, other work I pay a (normally) local VAG specialist. I find quality and honesty to be much improved over the average dealership. I’d find it hard to believe that anyone who goes to the effort of signing up to a forum dedicated to their car, would willingly not look after their car. I must have been very lucky up to now with the cars I’ve bought 🤞

Some of you may have been faced with an issue of missing taillight caps, genuine part.no. 7L6945285. You're free to order one such piece (or more) from any source, including the dealerships, but the prices aren't low (starting from around 4-5 GBP a piece - yes, a piece, not a set). You could try and obtain them from a breaker yard, don't know about the price (and they're used, possibly at least one broken clip, etc.). What if I told you there is an extremely cheap alternative, that beats the genuine part in both quality and the way it clips to the taillight, and requires juts a little bit of DIY (cutting the extra plastic, because the original cap length won't allow you to push it in place in the taillight). Well, here it is. In my case, out of 4 in total, I had 2 caps missing, one was genuine, one was something who knows from what. Anyways, what you need is this: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/22mm-Diameter-Round-Plastic-Blanking-End-Cap-Tubing-Tube-Insert-5-Pcs/32807481896.html The price is currently $0.63 for a set of 5 (I've actually received 6 caps) and free shipping worldwide. You just need to cut the extra plastic (after the first thread) with a scalpel or a similar tool (watch your fingers) and after that just clip in place. Perfect fit, better that the genuine part (clips all around, not just by having two flimsy hooks on each side), they actually fit so tightly, I don't know how I'll get them out if I'll have to

My original engine cover had APR badges on it which was no longer relevant, so I ended up replacing it with a EA888 Gen 3B engine cover version. It fits just fine, just needed to add two ball studs, WHT007324. The intake manifold already has mounting holes for the studs to screw into. Nice n easy. Engine cover part no. is 06K103925CK. I stuck a Skoda badge on top of the VW logo 😁

Rear pads and discs changed. This seems to have cured the rumble under braking when on ACC.

Yes, under the steering column on the right, you have to remove the storage compartment. On a RHD car that is. LHD is similar location but attached to the fuse box.

Picked up my third MK4 VRS today (previously 2020 Meteor Grey, 2023 Race Blue). Ordered the Space Violet, and thought it might be of interest to those on the fence about the colour - it looks almost black when in the shade, but even on an overcast day in the light it looks pretty purple...have feeling it will look even more purple in the sunshine. Very happy to have something a little outside the norm! ..and keeping on thread, it feels a little sharper than the previous two cars, but the real difference is in the screen and how it all works faster and better than the 2023 car (and the less said about the buggy 2020 car, the better!). Ordered in August as soon as I saw the colour was available, and no options other than Canton. Here's an untouched pic on an overcast day, no coating or treatment. Just as it came from the dealer.

Just see this thread, and had a really good read. Thanks all for the input & @arturp for creating it. I'm currently in the process of pushing the button on an Octavia vRS estate. I'm really undecided on what colour & options to go for.. So far, I'm thinking the following colours.. Colour Velvet Red, looks stunning. Only ever seen one in the flesh. And WOW!! Graphite Grey, was my original choice, but I have had far to many grey cars over the last 10 yrs. A great colour for flying under the radar. Space Violet, looks a bit different. Not seen one in the flesh, but worried with some of the dealer pics it looks a bit light & washed out. And the complete flip side, another dealer has one & this colour looks beautiful. Options Winter Pack DCC Pan roof, unsure Simply Clever Package Premium, simply for the boot net, when the dog is in the boot. If you could choose again. Which options are a must & what would you avoid? I know you don't by a vRS for fuel economy, but would be interested to hear if 35-40mpg is achievable in real world driving? Many thanks!!!