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Hi @pab567 , could you please send me the RNS510-6276-Update-VIM+Tm_60_35_5 ISO via PM as well? I have an RNS 510 HW H27 / SW 6276 (C14) which is stuck in a boot loop. Thank you very much! 👍

I don't have a 'scope that I can use to test this part with however I don't see much movement in the value which I would likely see if the value was oscillating over time. Presumably we can't know if the superseded part was an improvement or simply a change of sub manufacturer. The eBay advert I purchased it from specifically listed my car model as well as the aforementioned OE part number so I thought it would be the correct type. For a non-safety critical part like this I was just trying to see if I could save a little money.

I replaced my 2 front tyres this month, and was also a bit surprised to find them worn down to the threads on the inside edges 😬 They were Goodyear Turanza T005 which I’ve been quite happy with, so replaced them with exactly the same and had the tracking done at the same time. The garage said they’d found the tracking “only slightly” out. The fact they were so worn down on the inside came as a bit of a surprise as I’d been checking the tread depth regularly…will keep a closer eye on the inside edges in future. Mine are mostly motorway miles and I usually have them at 2.2 bar. I might try them at 2.5 which I think is listed as the “fully loaded” pressure.

My 2009 79k miles had it since aug 24 so just over two years 11 thousand trouble free miles .changed all discs and calipers and obviously pads ,since i got the car its had some quirky electrical warning lights on dash ,if any light is lit in car sidelight boot light interior light etc etc etc then warning lights show up on dash a left hand green indicator light and oil low warning light if i indicate left the left indicator light on dash flashes but also the right , i am told its likely a short somewhere ,a bad bulb a bad earth etc etc its not caused me any problems but would love to find the fault .would a code reader be able to identifyespecially if it was a dealer version,?

I have thought that the suspension on my Octavia seems a bit harsh and, having searched the forum, it seems that I’m not alone. My car is an ‘Elegance’ with 17” rims and 225/45x17 tyres and the beam axle rear suspension. Looking at the driver’s handbook, it says that the load rating for both 205/55x16 and 225/45x17 tyres is 91. However, it looks like the majority of 17” tyres that are available have a load rating of 94, as are the ones on my car. I think this could be contributing to the problem, along with the 45 profile on our potholed roads. I’ve decided to go down a wheel size to 16”, as 16” tyres are much more available in 91 load rating, together with the 55 profile, I’m hoping for a more comfortable ride. Has anyone else tried this? Out of interest, what size wheels and tyres does the VRS have?

Try buying a genuine one from TPS, they usually deliver as well when you set up an account.

It's weird because according to parts catalogue your car is equipped with BT module 5N0035730D. Look under passenger's seat.

That turns out to be consistent with the parts catalogue. For your VIN, the number you quoted is complete without any suffix. It has been superseded by 5K0 907 659, but that's not the key point. Circuit diagrams for your date of manufacture (28.08.13) show no sign of the output being a LIN bus signal. Searching through Yeti circuit diagrams that I have, as far as mid-2016 still don't show a LIN output version air quality sensor, so I suspect that this model never changed over, unlike in that thread I linked above. I suspect the item you've bought suits LIN-based air quality sensor systems instead. Try to match your exact part number, or the superseding one above, and ignore any that have suffixes after the main 9 characters.

Unfortunately, there is no postfix to the part number. Other writing on the older failed unit is 'PAG', the end opposite the sense intake has 'IND 12' and 'II 232/32'. Presumably the latter being a part manufacture date.

Having owned two Sportlines and driven a few others, I take the view that the two best options are: - Dynamic Chassis Control. It makes a real contribution to taming the appalling road surfaces that are so common now; - LED matrix headlights. Magical technology at its best. All headlights should be like this and one day maybe they all will be.

Sure it is. Pls send me VIN in PM so I can check your car configuration and let you know your options.

Hey all! Tried to look for an answer here but either am too bad with search or there was not a topic with this. Getting irritated by not having bluetooth and not to charge phone while driving and listening to music. Car is 2011. Current situation is with the superb radio that I want bluetooth to it - now it operates with aux - and been wondering if it can be ”upgraded” by buying a satnav unit with bluetooth in it. Is it worth it?

After 7 years of Octavia VRS DSGs I made a foolish mistake in February and switched to a Golf mk8 1.5 manual. I've tried to adapt to it but ultimately can't stand the gearbox and having just had two weeks back in an auto hire car on holiday am looking to get back into a DSG and with a bigger boot. I saw a lovely Karoq Sportline in Nardo Grey whilst I was away and am currently thinking along those lines. I'd be looking at a used car, likely 2022/23. I will of course have a good read through here, but if you have any standout must haves or avoids to call out, please do so. I want a bigger boot than the Golf (521L vs 381L ✅), DSG and the ability to add a towbar bike mount - the Octavia's were a bit fussy on this, is the towbar an easy retrofit on the Karoq if need be? Pan roofs look nice, but I seem to remember reports of other VAG ones squeaking, creaking and leaking? The Golf's tech is punching above it's weight, it regularly warns me of imaginary lane creep and collisions, plus the whole system crashes from time to time, needing a restart to clear - My Octavia's were much better, any points of note with the Karoq? As I say, I will have a good look around on here, but would really appreciate early warning of any showstoppers, highlights or other thoughts.

OK I’ve had my Amundsen update to CarPlay If I update the unit to rectify the clock problem will I lose CarPlay? CarPlay wasn’t added by Skoda

Your sticker should look like this. G51 is the suspension set up on mine if you read the numbers.

@NDW89 mine had that and still has vaccum the same way as you describe, my problem was that it made a whistling noise which dissapeared when i oppened oil filler cap. Also in cold weather i had a lot of white smoke from the exhaust which reduced substantialy after pcv change. UPDATE: Problem solved by changing haldex pump and clutch assembly. All was done under warranty. Test for this was to remove the haldex fuse from under steering wheel and do a test drive, which i have found on other forum. My haldex pump filter inside was filled with debris (as factory procedure does not include cleaning of the filter located on the pump, that caused pump motor to burn out and draw a big ammount of current but not enough to burn out a fuse. My haldex clutch plates were severely deformed and were binding even when the fuse was removed creating physical resistance which triced tcu and ecu. Reccomendation on various internet pages say that this pump filter should be cleaned every haldex service, to ensure that it does not end up the way my did. Very happy with the car now, such a shame it took so long (8 months) to sort out, thank you everybody!

I believe there are two different styles of sensor around this time, one with an output that is at a low voltage when measured with a meter, the other with an output that sits high as measured with a multimeter. You may have the wrong type. The latter, later type is the LIN-based one, I think, but would need your VIN to research which type your car should have. See G65 sensor no signal - Skoda Octavia Mk3 (2013 - 2020) - BRISKODA I'll message you to ask for the VIN. Is there no letter suffix after the core 1K0907659 part number you mentioned.? Those suffix letters can identify/disambiguate completely incompatible versions.

Many thanks. Thats what i have ordered.

That is exactly how my provblems started. You can do the reset but if returns have a read here on what eventually fixed mine Multi media screen not working and sun roof problems - Skoda Superb Mk4 (2023 > ) - BRISKODA

Good thinking... On the rear of my Fabia's dipstick's yellow plastic handle is a QR code and the Part Number 05C115611H Searching online using that Part Number retrieves plenty of adverts for dipsticks for recent VW Group cars (not just Skoda Fabia Mk4s) that have the 1.0litre TSI motor. I've looked at a few adverts that carry photos, but, although they all resemble my Fabia's dipstick (yellow angled handle, black flat steel 'blade' and with a bent section that plainly relates to oil-level measurement) I can't get sufficient resolution on that section to confirm if any of the advertised dipsticks lack the 'dotted' marking. As it's fairly easy to do, it would be worth @fabiamk4man checking the Part Number on his car's dipstick.

The air quality sensor (1K0907659) appears to have failed on our 2013 Yeti. In VCDS it is throwing the DTC 9481988 - Air Quality Sensor B10AF 04 [008] - Internal System Fault The price of a replacement OEM part was £140 plus the hassle of a 1 hour round trip to collect it from the dealer. So given the price of £20 for a Chinese version, I have tried that. However it is giving me a different fault 9479189 - Signal Line for Air Quality Sensor B10A4 15 [008] - Open or Short to Plus Upon testing this Chinese part on a bench using a PSU set to 12V 0.1A, with pin 1 (12V), pin 2 GND, then I'm seeing 10.5V on pin 3 for a few seconds and then it drops to 9.5V for the remaining time. It is drawing 45mA and then 0mA respectively. I think it is simply a fault part but curious to know how others have got on with the Chinese part? Has anybody got voltage & current values for a known good sensor? The old failed sensor I have has 0.5V on pin 3 and is drawing about 10mA constantly.

Im trying to unlock the messaging function!

Do the fans come on when overheating light is on. If not just wondering if its the prongs in expansion vessel. I used to get the warning on my old mk2. I scraped pins and it was fine after that. Think its the same warning for low coolant and overheating on the MK2 but not sure re mk3 Alasdair

I have an ongoing issue - the engine overheating warning light come on when the engine heats up at start up. It also sometime comes on - when it is a hot day, the air-con is on and the car is being pushed hard. At no time does the engine exceed 90 degrees which is the normal operating temperature. It has had the overheat sensors replaced, but it still complains. Has anyone else come across this and have a fix or suggestion?

Interesting...perhaps it's the difference between using ODIS and OBD11? Is ODIS changing something else?