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I seem to recall there's some reasonable step by step guides on YT, e.g.: We've the same DSG in our Polo. I've considered changing the oils, but not yet made it past the considering stage. Gaz

Hi all I am fairly new to this website and definately new to being a Skoda owner! I purchased the above car a few months ago and as we (my family and I) usually do all our own car maintenance although we are pretty clued up I purchased a Haynes manual for the car it covers the 'usual' stuff but unfortunately it doesn't cover certain areas like the DSG, I want to replace the oil in the gear box and need to find a definitive answer as to what oil type, the quantity and also how to change it. So if anyone out there is able to help with any advice or trusted web links it would very much be appreciated. Thanks 🙂

Good morning Jamie, what is your mileage? Are you beginning to have issues with the pump?

Hi, I have a Bolero enteratinment system with the CPU head unit in the glove box and a 5E0 919 605 B interface unit on the dash. Over the last year I have been getting periodic flickering on the screen until the summer when the screen packed up altogether but the buttons continued to work. I replaced the interface unit and whilst this worked for a couple of weeks, the dreaded flickering has returned and I'm worried the replacemed screen is going to go the same way as the last one. Does anyone know what might be going on here? Or quite happy to be pointed to another post that covers it. Thanks

Hi everyone, Looking forward to participating in this forum and always keen to hear from those with the 4x4 Octavias! J

A final(hopefully) posting on my mate's 2019 VW T-Roc 1.5TSI 150PS DSG, WBAC happily took it off his hands, I don't know what sort of money he got for it, but maybe I managed to soften the blow by saying that I was worried that he was going to just get it repaired and then get hit by the much quoted DADA engine problems "quite soon after". So it's back to using some of his fleet of classic SAABs for now!

Thanks for your tip, I don't have a lot of faith in our local Skoda dealer. Which by the sounds of things is not unusual!!

Hi Got to change my sons front consul bushes on his mk1 1.2htp and the old bushes are so worn so not sure which way new ones fit. I think the narrow slotted section in rubber is vertical and hex section has to be horizontal but they are offset so is it the narrower side or thicker side that is nearest engine. Photo from internet as example and his are about the same. Going to replace swing arms etc at same time. Using Febi reinforced bushes. Alasdair

I like this one

Hi Posting for information as most of the posts I could see by searching for timing belt pricing were a few years old. Have received the following quotes in and around the Glasgow area over the past week. All quotes are for the timing belt and water pump on a Mk3 (2018) 2.0 TDi. All inclusive of parts and labour. Skoda Dealer: £990 (plus £110 extra for auxiliary belt) Local garage: £770 not incl. auxiliary belt VAG Independent: £800 incl. auxiliary belt Of course prices likely to depend on where you are / engine etc but significantly more than what seems to have been quoted a few years ago may give an idea to any prospective buyers or those planning ahead. I assume prices have just gone up over the years as all quotes are in the same / expected ballpark but if I'm being ripped off let me know!

Woof! That car's seen some action!

Some shots from the east coast and a poor attempt at a landscape shot with my iPhone.

That’s great detail thanks @JR RS sounds like @tombee and I will get what we’re after from the kind offer from @travs !

Much appreciated! I bought the extras expecting to screw up with the first or second attempt. This kind of thing is quite amusing. You pay a considerable pile of cash for what must be the most software complex car we've ever owned and.....I am buying a pack of three toothbrushes for £3 on my Tesco Clubcard to help clean the intricate wheels! It could be worse. Our RR Velar cost us £71k back in 2017 and I found myself stuffing pipe insulation to pack out the tension for the driver's window to stop it rattling - one if several DIY fixes. Whether its been the Mercedes, the Volvo x 2 or our earlier Ford Galaxy..... DIY, John Bull solutions have had their place! I'll post a photo of my remodelling attempt later in the week when I get some time to do this. Thanks again for the suggestion. Best wishes.

This type of rear diffuser, known as the Sportline diffuser does not come with exhaust cutouts. It comes with or without towball cutouts, and it comes in chrome or black trims. I changed my basic non-Sportline diffuser with no exhaust cutout on my 220 to a Sportline diffuser with no exhaust cutout, bout 7 yrs ago. The Sportline 280 4x4 and non-Sportline 4x4 both get a different diffuser, which has the exhaust cutout. They don't get a Sportline diffuser. Also, it's the same diffuser regardless of wagon or sedan. The bumper itself though IS different between wagon and sedan.

Hello everyone! I am long time lurker, this is my first post. I own a 2021 MK4 Skoda Octavia RS and I love it, but some things are annoying my autistic brain, mainly - rattles and interior random noises XD But ok, I managed to identify main culprits and solve the issues to somewhat satisfactory extend, but one kept on bugging me, until my buddy finally identified the culprit: the back seats vent controls. At higher speeds on highways (which are fairly good in Croatia, regarding the surface quality) this thing produces a high pitched rattle/buzzing noise, it is kinda hard to describe it, but imagine having a coin on a metal surface that is vibrating at high frequency. So he identified it and moved it and then it stopped. Then I tried it the next day and it worked, but I can't find a permanent solution, so I am asking you if anyone has any ideas? I do have felt tape, silicone spray and white grease spray (lithium grease), should I perhaps first try with small amounts of grease on the plastic joints and contact areas? Thanks,

It was ignition switch I mentioned, not barrel. Much easier and cheaper to change if necessary. Sounds like it may not be though.

Unforunately the car developed electrical faults, Map detail disaappearing with an image of a car in a blank screen, an intermittent warning the active sign recognition wasn't working, a booming/resonance in the cabin plus others. Took it back and rejected it under the Consumer Rights act on monday 5 oct. After my Superb it was a disapointment.

i didnt want to i just noticed it did that and thought i it was odd i . the engine cleaner goes on a luke warm engine ( stopped) then cleaned off but cheers all

Ooh isn’t that pretty! Nice nick for a mk3 ?

No clicks when it played up for me. It clicked when starting normally. I tried x5 times taking key out and using spare I had with me, adjusted steering wheel height and tapped it in case of ignition barrel fault. Previous time was 2 weeks ago for wife. She rattled gear stick and then it started. Of course the gearbox mechanism is inches from starter. I had previously duct taped that red trigger wire as it felt insecure, loose. I had to cut duct tape carefully and cable was still attached to started flat terminal pin. Only after checking trigger wire and tapping starter did car start on next try. I cleaned all earth points afterwards With neg on battery disconnected and they weren't too bad. The positive wire that is braided and part of solenoid on starter was a bit green. The Bosch starter has a different starter sound to the valeo. I don't like it but if the car starts... I've tried starting x4 times and it hasn't failed to start. The starter is attached with X2 18mm bolts with X2 13mm nuts for earth or for a bracket. Also another 13mm for live big current connector. I'll see how it goes over next week, if it fails to start then it will be ignition barrel which is a job I've not done. The cruise control has broke and brought up a code a few months ago, it was never good on setting speed since I bought the car.

You can use a bowl of hot water as an alternative for softening the plastic if Mrs A won't part with her hairdryer. Soak the brush for a few seconds in the water to warm it. Once the plastic is warmed by either method, apply firm but even pressure to bend it. You should be able to feel it moving - it's a bit like very thick toffee - and also when it starts to cool and stiffen, and becomes brittle again. You may need two or three goes to get each of the bends fully formed. I'm looking forward to seeing some photos of the finished product 😄

Nottslan Yes. my car was new with 5 miles on the clock.

Replied in PM - requested VIN to check details and prepare an offer.

Apologies for the late reply. Glow plugs: in order to stop them seizing and being difficult to remove (rounded heads, seizing, snapping), I suggest replacing them every 7 years. If the head rounds, I suggest leaving it in place and not trying to extract it; the engine will start OK on the remaining glow plugs, but obviously more might fail. They are not expensive and easy to remove if not stubborn/seized. Injectors: new OEM injectors are good for about 120 - 130K miles. Reconditioned ones last about 20K miles. When one injector fails, the rest also fail within about 10 - 15K miles. Genuine, new OEM injectors are expensive. Other forum members may have different views on the above.