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From memory the yellow wire I think is permanent live and red is from ignition. The yellow wire is there to keep settings etc. It may be that the Kenwood is more susceptible to voltage drop. Check that the yellow wire is getting 12v with ignition off. Alasdair

I hope Amazon Duracell are OK. BTW, we have a Mercedes 62 reg C180 with 20,000 miles showing and the key fobs have never been changed. Could Skoda fobs last that long?

Apologies, it’s for a 19td Skoda roomster 2 - 2007, I thought I had posted the details - thanks for looking

OK. So to enable both fog lamps only a coding/adaptation OR dataset change is required. I'm trying to figure them out. For sure there is a small difference between LHD and RHD cars, and merging them will results in both fog lamps on. Can you share a BCM backup of your current state? Thank you

Long time no posting! I’ve recently moved over to the dark side and purchased a full electric ( not a Skoda…) In my driveway, I have my 2011 petrol VRS estate. Current state: Occasional ECU communication errors (mainly in very wet days!) Needs wheel speed sensor (traction control error warning) MOT expired (although I’m confident it will pass once the sensor is replaced) My question is: Replace wheel sensor, get MOT, sell through auto trader Get ridiculously low price from We Buy Anycar as is Scrap Other option? To be honest, I’m not comfortable advertising on Autotrader as I would feel bad about the occasional ECU error unless the person buying was comfortable resetting the error code every now and then!

I've had 3 MK4 Petrol VRS' (hatch, 2020, 2023, 2025), and the average for all of them has been between 40-42mpg. Can easily be 50mpg on a long motorway run, and if I get 30mpg on a Sainsbury's run then I've done well. It's pretty efficient if you are happy to drive sensibly!

Check the battery voltage while engine is being cranked - likely that voltage is dropping too low during engine crank.

What car? Which engine type?

Hello, Had a crank no start. Bosch starter motor reconditioned fitted. Car starts each and every time for a month since fitting. Wife noticed radio (Kenwood aftermarket) loses power on cranking and resets or stays shut down. Radio fitted 1 year ago and only shut down when battery was knackered. Turning off fan, lights had no effect. Radio loses power when starting every time, warm or cold engine. Looks like a voltage drop. Dash lights unaffected. I already cleaned all earth points in engine bay. I checked the negative battery cable to suspension turret earth. Put extra cable on it in case breakage (jump lead). Radio still loses power momentarily forcing reset. Presets not lost. Battery is healthy and reading over 12.6v AI Google says to fit a capacitor plus loom behind radio to drop the voltage drop. Anything else I can do? The battery is bigger than needed. 540Cca and it got at least 100 cca so I'm thinking is there a weak ground. Radio needs ignition on to power up - switched live. Could red and yellow wires be wrong way around, but then radio would be on all time = flat battery on constant live. Also seen a little brown wire slightly frayed on neg battery terminal. It is used for control systems on car and provides clean voltage unlike earth points. Could that be to blame? Any ideas appreciated.

mate I'd love to but it's all I have. I've asked on forums and FB groups but not getting much back. I know AI is doing exactly what you're saying, but it's avenues to explore and rule out and that's better than nothing.

Id ditch the AI mate. It just makes stuff up that sounds like what you want to hear

is RHD hatchback looks like you talking about basic LED there is T73a/72 controling fog light (NSL) I swaped basic LED to full LED and there is T73a/25 LIN controling fog and reverse light how you can see on diagram T73a/72 is not connected

That would be great Thanks Very much appreciated

Can anyone please advise me where I can get the 3 bolts that hold the throttle body actuator to the EGR valve as I do t know how but I have dropped them and cannot find them - urgently needed as getting a wee bit desperate Thanks in advance

I've used Aerotwin for as long as I can remember on a variety of cars. I put a set on my '25 Karoq last week, as the originals had started dragging. They were more of a wrestle than previous vehicles, especially the nearside which needed tapping onto the arm. Never had that before but may be down to the stretch to reach that one when in the service position.

Its the button with a picture of a car with the door open. It should be pressed in to be on.

Hello @milloo24 , Congratulations on your work with the retrofit! I have couple question regarding the actual behavior with both rear fog lamps steady on: Can you share a backup of adaptation on BCM unit? Is your car RHD? I'm working on finding out how to enable both on my car, which is a LHD vehicle. Based on the investigation I did so far it seems that this is a wiring harness tweak. Can you confirm you have connected both: T6y/5 and T6x/5 (NSL signal) to BCM: T73a/72? Thank you

You shouldn’t have to raise the bonnet, if you put the wipers into the service position you will get access to change them. Please see attached image

I can confirm those are the correct ones. I've fitted those to both a 2021 and 2024 Karoq. They can be a tight fit though...

@Bap33 just a note of caution, revving up a TDI until 15k RPM might bring other foreseeable troubles .... 😁😜 Doubt will arrive at 20-30s 🤪

Fabia Mk3 SE L 1.2 TSI 110 6 speed manual RED

What a clever idea! Carshades are fantastic product, but the "clips" that hold them are problematic ... I got one car that keeps losing them, and in another they scratched the window tint ...☹️

Thank you! I´m sorry but I didn´t take any pictures, But I suspect a badly crimped connector that I have not really found yet since the loom was hard to get to under the dash. I just put a new fused 12v connection to the 12v input of the J527 Steering Column Module. Good thing to know though is that you can´t cut the old cable because then the dash won´t have any power. I learned that the hard way. But it works with just splicing a new 12v power on to the old one, preferably by soldering and heat shrink. I had also confirmed that no short circuit had done this.

I have not seen any damage to the loom it self actually. Not the parts that I could access.

Mine went in for them to investigate and I showed them exactly what was creaking and demonstrated that taking the load off the window frame by pressing the window down button for a fraction of a second resolves it on the drivers door (doesn’t on the passenger door however). Škoda are going to apply some factory grease they say. It’s booked in next week. I suspect that it will cure it for a couple of days only….. It’s not an issue with the window guides. It’s 100% caused by the top most part of the seal (where it’s textured/flocked) rubbing on the door frame. When the window is fully up it distorts the door frame slightly and this causes the seal to rub. Like I said, easing the load on the frame by pressing the window down button so that the window is not open at all but the load is removed, stops it on my drivers door. Trouble is the app then reports a window open. I’m going to get the seals replaced either under warranty or pay for them if the grease doesn’t work….