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Many thanks for the info. Have asked for a breakdown of the parts and costs. Will have a better idea if the same issue you mention then...

This morning I brought car to Skoda Dealer to replace the factory Amundsen screen with the Columbus one (part n. 565919606D) and factory Amundsen navigation in the glove box with the Columbus one (part n. 3V0035816K); I also replaced the cable what connect the two units. Of course I brought with me the purchases invoices to witness the parts were regularly purchased from a wreckage shop in order to remove legally the component protection. One hour ago Skoda contacted me saying they gave up as the screen doesn't turn on: can anybody help me saying me what else can I do?

Many thanks for this info. I have asked for a breakdown of the parts required and costs

There were quite a few associated with the GAP, Cosmetic damage, tyre and alloy insurance and for the lifeshine cover. I know it's a personal preference to have these, but my cars have been clipped to many times in carparks over the years.. The usual sales documents and a copy of the green registration slip and the Skoda aproved used documents and roadside cover. Then came the more interesting ones which included a Handover checklist, the Battery Health Test and a Car condition checklist, which was a bit like a normal service list with everything checked off.

I had to have a hole welded a couple of years back. Rear of sill is close to mounting of rear beam. This (actually part of front wing) has been slowly worsening for a while. Went through MOT a few weeks back without mention. 🙂

When I did this on my old Nova I just used silver Hammerite... It lasted well

Yes you must unzip the file first, then copy it to the FAT32 formatted SD card

Also you can check and R8 which is related to Engine electronic components

Meant base of actual engine bay fuse box as in picture above. Think there are connectors underneath to ecu etc. Not unknown for a pin to be coroded or socket opened up enough to make bad connection especially if moisture is present. Alasdair

@Morph I dont have 458. I have 646 and 645 if I am not mistaken. (3x 646 and 1x 645) It is a Skoda octavia mk3. On the fuse box on the inside of the car there is 1 x 645 and 1 x 646.

Relay 458 in the engine bay could be the cause.

Will try to look for circuit info this evening.

This is for VW Arteon SB from 08.2021 but should be the same as Superb. Check it

Could be corrosion or bad connector, where is this fuse box in the bottom of engine bay? I do have aditional fault's that are allways present and i never cleare those. Air Conditioning: Air quality sensor faulty (B10AF04 active). Dashboard: Function restriction due to communication interruption (U111000 static). Multifunction Module: Data bus error value recived (U112300 static). Multifunction Module: Fog mode active (C118E00 static)

If you don’t mind me asking how are all you taxis doing using the Octavia etecs reliability wise ??

A random thought and could be wrong but wonder if its corrosion or bad connector pin/socket in bottom of engine bay fuse box? Might be making good contact when warm but poor when cold thats not enough to trigger other fault codes but the N522 valve system may be more sensitive. Alasdair

anybody found the solution? I read in another thread that the issue @SkodaLada had, was solved with a relay change. However I dont know which relay to change. I am having exactly the same issue. Already changed battery, checked all the ground cables, fuses and all seems ok. It is an intermittent issue, is happens when driving, sometimes when starting the car. The errors goes away by itself. I have an OBDeleven, I cleared the codes and it comes back.

Yeah it was just to seal it more than anything else. It seems to have done alright, I do it every 2 years or so in various places. It's still very solid though - and ready for me to get it sold now. The red one has been in Scotland since new, and that's not a good climate.

DNFE / 2.0 TSI EA888 Gen 4 / 280 hp

I am attaching my full engine details from OBDeleven I'll check the voltages with OBDeleven. I can easily get the resting voltage (ignition ON) and running voltage after start. I probably won't catch the split-second dip during actual cranking due to the app's refresh rate, but I'll log what I can and post the numbers!

Problem with the stone chip guard it gets brittle and cracks with age then moisture gets trapped underneath. If the rest is solid I would leave it alone. Alasdair

Used febi ones as well and no problems. Put a slight smear of copper grease on bit that fits in hole not the tip for future removal. According to youtube the new bearings should click in place when fully home. I didnt hear anything but they went in as far as the old ones. Took a photo of the old ones in place before removal for reference. Sons were really loud but no play and we only noticed once I finally fixed his blowing flexi exaust. Just got to do front swing arms and bushes now, Alasdair

It could also be voltage related. Warm engine implies recent charging, cold engine implies the opposite. There are about four other devices powered from the same fuse I believe, but would need your engine code to check properly. Maybe one of those other devices is pulling too much current, and causing the whole voltage supply from that fuse to dip too low during a cold start, or something like that.

UK is of the greatest interest to me. Not Australia or the USA or RoW. But there have been areas of the UK very hot this year so far. Maybe that will result in different statistics later this year. Lots of imported BEV,s into the UK from around the globe. & Lots of PHEV,s.

It was only a very short time — just a few seconds. Between step 2 and 3, I turned the ignition off, opened and closed the driver's door, and then immediately turned the ignition back on to run the scan. I will definitely try your suggestion of leaving a full 60 seconds (or more) with the ignition off before turning it back on... Yesterday, I replace the N522 valve once again, just to 100% rule out the possibility that the first new valve installed by the dealership was defective. When I replaced the valve, the engine was fully warm. After installing the new valve and clearing the code, I ran multiple tests and the fault code did not return. However, after letting the car sit for 3 hours to cool down, I turned the ignition back on and the P25AB00 code immediately returned. The issue seames to never occurs when the engine/oil is warm. It only triggers when the system undergoes a true "cold boot" with cold engine/oil parameters. During my lunch break, once the engine has completely cooled down again, I will repeat the full test sequence on a cold engine, including leaving 60+ second gaps between ignition cycles as suggested earlier. I will post the cold-start results as soon as I complete the tests!