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buy 2 new big bolts for hubs, also buy new bolts for guard. for guard i would buy some inox bolts.

@Evolution13It would be better if, instead of spinning all of these great plans and promises of job creation, etc., they came clean and openly admitted it was all wealth generation for their chums and donors to party funds, etc.

sorry, i thought i had replied! it seems i dont get the drop outs when using an external SSD with the audio converted to m4a... so might be an android issue for me.

That is excellent information, thank you. It matches what I remember. I changed the rear bearings and that was very easy. I could slide them of by hand after bolt #13 was removed. Only thing to be aware of is the high torque for that bolt when loosening and fastening (200Nm + 180deg or something like that). I am a bit afraid if bolts #12 would come out without a fight or breaking and what to do if not...

As to the Data Centres and the many seeking planning permission in Scotland because of the temperatures and the supply of H2o for coolling. This is not going well for those spinning the story of jobs etc. Maybe they should be built at the Nuclear or GAS / COAL fired power stations that are decommissioned or on ex Military of Defence sites and air fields. But the water is very much the issue.

Massive Windfarms off the Scottish Coast or on land are not generating electricity because there is not the grid capacity or storage facilities or facilities to use to produce hydrogen. & there is no plans that will be implemented in the next year or 3 that will be changing this situation. Over capacity and lack of infrastracture. So Real world not Fiction / UK government / GB Energy world. Pylons being blocked, Substations Blocked and Interconnectors being laid and Land Fall sites being blocked.

Hi Re: a Superb mk 3 2023 SE-L , has ACC, side assist, park assist, electric tailgate, rear parking sensors, Matrix LED headlights I've install an Oris tow bar bought from PF Jones and also one of their own make dedicated wiring kits for the above car. I've fitted the towbar. When coding the electrics there seems to be several different opinions out there as to what needs doing. Please can someone who is more knowledgeable than me take a glance at the coding below and tell me if this seems reasonable (or have I forgotten something or am doing something unnecessary) Thanks you Coding requirements for PF Jones dedicated kit on a Mk3 SE-L superb estate Step 1: The Gateway Master Switch Do this first. It unlocks communication to everything else. 19 - CAN Gateway → Go to Installation List → Find 69 - Trailer → Check the box to mark it Installed → Save. Step 2: The Core Drivetrain & Brake Alignment 01 - Engine Electronics: Go to Long Coding → Byte 5 → Enable Bit 4 (Trailer Control Module Installed). (Note: If the ECU locks this byte, the Gateway step above auto-configures it; do not force it if it rejects). 03 - Brake Electronics (ABS): Go to Adaptations → Search channel: IDE04774 - Vehicle and Trailer Stabilization → Change value to Activated. (Crucial for the anti-snaking trailer safety program). Step 3: Adaptive Cruise Control & Windscreen Camera Because the SE-L uses the high-definition windscreen camera and front bumper radar together for semi-autonomous features, you must code both. 13 - Adaptive Cruise Control (ACC Radar): Go to Long Coding: Byte 2, Bit 3 → Enable (Trailer Recognition Control Module Installed). Byte 3, Bit 3 → Enable (Control Module for Towing Sensor / AAG Installed). (Failing to activate Byte 3 is the direct cause of the often found "Front Assist Unavailable" error) A5 - Front/Advanced Driver Assist (Windscreen Camera): Go to Long Coding → Byte 16, Bit 1 → Enable (Trailer Recognition Control Module Installed). Step 4: Infotainment & Central Electrics This prevents a "Missing Databus Message" error across your central display. 5F - Information Electronics: Go to Adaptations → Search Trailer or Trailer_Menu → Change Configuration_line_trailer to Activated. 09 - Central Electrics (BCM): Go to Long Coding → Byte 1, Bit 1 → Enable (Trailer Hitch Control Module Installed). Step 5: High-Spec SE-L Trim Level Requirements (Do Not Skip) Because the SE-L car is heavily optioned, you must configure every single one of these modules: D7 - Light Control Right 2 (Matrix LED Headlights): Go to Long Coding → Byte 5, Bit 4 → Enable (Trailer Mode/Recognition Installed). (This instructs the matrix beam to dynamically masks its light cells so it doesn't cause reflective glare off the trailer's front panel back into your rearview mirror). 6D - Electronic Tailgate: Go to Long Coding → Byte 1, Bit 7 → Enable (Trailer Control Module/Recognition Installed). (This disables the virtual foot-wave pedal plus remote opening and restricts the boot button from power-opening if it senses a trailer plugin, stopping a collision with anything that might be in the way). 3C - Side Assist / Lane Change Assist: Go to Long Coding → Byte 2 → Set Bits 4–7 to 20 Trailer Recognition Control Module Installed. (This digitally extends the side radar range backwards to account for the physical length of your trailer). 10 / 76 - Park Assist (PDC): Go to Long Coding → Byte 3 → Set Bits 0–1 to 02 Trailer Hitch Installed. (Automatically silences the rear reversing alarm when plugged in). Step 6: Initializing the PF Jones Module Itself The actual module included in your PF Jones dedicated kit must have its power management toggled so it doesn't drain your battery while parked: 69 - Trailer Function: Go to Long Coding → Byte 4 → Set Bits 0–7 to 02 Terminal 30 Output switched (Pin 10) active while Trailer connected. Post-Installation Reality Check The moment you reconnect the battery after pinning the PF Jones kit, the car's network will panic because it lost power. Follow this process exactly to clear it: 1. Save all your coding changes. 2. Run a Global DTC Clear / Clear All Faults via your tool. 3. Turn the ignition completely off, lock the car, and walk away for 5 minutes to let the CAN-bus sleep. 4. Turn the car back on, ignore any lingering yellow wheel or dash symbols, and drive it down the street for 100 yards. The ABS rings and ACC radar will read the rotating wheels and self-calibrate, turning off all remaining dash warnings.

Funnily there are many many posts and threads on Briskoda where members engines are consuming lots of oil and not just 1.5 TSI ACT,s. (Several last week.) But then they might leave the oil check until there is a Low Oil warning light or message or even a low oil pressure light. Not checking where the Oil is when cold & the car is delivered as new or after a service & then checking as you should at Normal Operating temperature to see if they show at the same mark is simply not 'Simply Clever'. If there was a check when Cold regime for VW Group engines then VW Group should say so and show in the Owners Manual. With a Mk2 Fabia vRS with only 3.6 litres engine oil capacity there were some Oil Filters that trapped in 0.5 litres oil in it. So the crappy dip stick and not knowing that had plenty thinking the oil was low. Also the oil could be 1.3 litres low and no warning light. 1.3 litres low with a 3.6 litre oil capacity. We as in me and others put in 3.9 litres and used a Mahle oil filter not a VAG one. With euro 5 1.2 TSI,s there were plenty dealerships that never put in the correct capacity of oil when there was a change to the capacities. Level not checked correctly by the tech or fitter after they put in the measured quantity.

Somany angles to this summers heat waves and the effect on electricity prices and supply. All power sources that need cooling water ie gas power stations, and any other fossil fuel ones, including nuclear where they are drawing river water for cooling, were severely handicapped during the heat waves even fully shutting down in some case of power plants requiring cooling water/ Not enough water and what there was too hot. Only solar kept up full supply and was relied on more heavily because of the failure of gas, nuclear and other fossil fuels. This affected the whole European electrical grid and resulted in the much higher prices which the UK has to pay for the interconnector electricity to keep the lights on some hours of the day. Still some levies could be removed, 6% I have seen menttioned. Massive new wind farms come on stream on the English and Scottish coast, onshore wind and solar, both home and company installs occuring at pace thankfully. Us domestic consumers have to hope that the new AI centres dont take so much power that we don't see as much benefit as we hope that is home / balcony solar could be so important to keep home bills down as low as possible. Today is the day balcony / home solar becomes legal !! Dogger Bank A&B 2.4GW Wind Farm Berwick Bank 4.1GW Offshore Wind Farm Hornsea Project Three Offshore Wind Farm 2.4GW Ossian Offshore Wind Farm 3.6GW Sofia 1.4GW Offshore Wind Farm

I don't believe that is not the original dipstick. It looks exactly the same with every photo i have seen and i can;t think for a reason to have been replaced in a 3 years old car for an aftermarket one - specialy when the car still is covered by extetend warranty. It also seems to point the correct level as after every oil change the mark up is always at the suggested maximum level. Honestly there is not any need to check regulary as the car with only 20.000 miles on consumes zero oil - it is just me and my chronic anxious to check it very often by my own eyes... Also i have notified that fabia will alert me at the infotainment screen in (rare) case there is dangerous low oil level. To my opinion probably some dipsticks out of specs got in cars during production without nobody notice it. Anyway, as i said after scraping the black coating things are more visible and i will no longer going to bother with it. Maybe at the next service i point it to the dealership just for curiosity reasons

Škoda StoryboardOuninpohja: Finland’s roller-coaster stage - Škoda Storyb...Engine at maximum revs in top gear, the nose of the car pointed directly towards a yellow house. A slight turn to the right follows and, suddenly, one of the most spectacular jumps in rallying opens u https://www.skoda-storyboard.com/en/skoda-world/explore-the-new-skoda-models-in-mixed-reality/

Does it have a physical "knob" for the power / volume? If so try a hard reset by turning on the ignition and then holding down the power button for c 10seconds the unit should reboot.

You are correct. I still have the Roomster. Long story short. Car broke down, diesel on top of engine Garage 1 replaced one injector, with a brand new one. No problem with that one Broke down again Garage 2 replaced the other 3 injectors, with (new according to the price and invoice). Car broke down same weekend. Stretch bolts snapped off. Car recovered to home 20 miles away Garage 2 recovered the car 38 miles to garage 2 to be fixed Car fixed free of charge. Car breaks down Garage 1 fits new fuel rail does a good job Garage 1 said Garage 2's injectors were not new, yellow dots on the tops Car breaks down into current limp and 0204 Garage 2 has p1ssed me off so much that I took it to garage 3 Garage 3 is 4 miles away and did a full detailed report. Garage 3 said that injector was reconditioned and not brand new. Garage 2 can't remember which plugs they replaced Credit card was used to pay for garage 2's 3 injectors. Credit card was asked to sort this refund out via section 75 Section 75 got dragged out beyond statuary 56 days. Section 75 now escalated to ombudsman. Ombudsman now dragging heels Ombudsman case handler, conveniently on a long holiday This is getting ridiculous The car has spent more time on the blocks than on the road and I've only had it a year this September. I need to sell this car Does anyone want to buy this car? I am selling it at a severe loss

Yes, just looked that 50a is for heated windscreen which mine hasn’t got. Thinking about it, that spare 80a might be for connecting high load 12v stuff for converting them to emergency vehicles for example, or maybe it is a common fuse box for all VW group stuff including Porsche, Audi etc and it is easier for the robots to just make it with that 80a fuse. @AGFalco the stud doesn’t look connected, it doesn’t touch the fuse strip and looks like it needs the nut to make a connection.

Go here https://www.skoda.co.uk/owners/servicing-maintenance-fixed-price Up the top click on book a service, just done that for mine and comes back as £1082 for my local

Send VIN in PM and I will check

Just updated my post above that apparently it is unassigned fuse 1.

"Classic" Thanks for the pic, I shall not worry about the missing nut now. I don't have heat pump either so that bolt with the nut missing could well be the point they connect it too? My extra relay & 50A fuse maybe for my heated screen, that'll take a bit of juice?

Car is 2011 2.0 diesel. 4 x 4 Dsg 140 bhp What size (mm) solid rear discs? I want to order online and not get.caught having to send back. Thanks.

My guess (and it is a guess 😬) is that it would be for some option like Heat Pump. Mine is a 60 sel and I can see there is an extra relay and 50a fuse in your fuse box compared to mine. Edit : Apparently it is fuse 1 and shown not assigned. I googled it at and it came up fuse 1 in the under bonnet fuse box is not used empty/spare.

That's very odd... As it was more convenient, the photos I provided were not of my own Fabia's dipstick, but copied from this UK ebay advert. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/375482427248 However, my 2024 Fabia's dipstick and other adverts for 'genuine' Fabia Mk4 1.0litre-motor dipsticks are identical and match the relevant picture in all Fabia Mk4 Owner's Manuals. (As I was aware you were in Greece, I checked the appropriate section in the Greek-language 2023 Manual and - as the attached image shows - that was no different). There seem to be two possibilities - (1) that a Fabia Mk4 car with the 1.0litre TSI motor may sometimes have been factory-fitted with a dipstick that does not have the raised dotted section shown in the Owner's Manual, or (2) that your car does not have a 'genuine' Skoda Fabia Mk4 dipstick. You'd be wise to check this with a Skoda dealership. If your car does not have the 'genuine' Skoda Fabia Mk4 dipstick, its dipstick may be the wrong length and (obviously) that would affect checking the car's oil-fill level. During my 65 years of driving I've owned many cars, including 6 VWs and 2 Skodas. The only vehicle I've had any real difficulty checking the oil-level was a 2015 motorhome based on a Fiat Ducato that had a LONG dipstick 'tube' that curved around the front of the engine before disappearing into the motor. The dipstick itself was flat black steel with just a narrowed section near its end to indicate minimum/ maximum oil-levels (image below). Fiat dropped the dipstick from later Ducatos, provoking vociferous complaints from owners who found the electronic oil-level system to be untrustworthy.

Started this morning, main display (central screen) is blank. Powers on and off (radio goes on and off), clicks when touched (but obviously I don't know what I am doing so will desist) and can change radio station and volume from wheel. Anyone else had a blank screen? Help!

Hi, just looked at mine, it is the same - no nut.

What he said ^ Everything has been superseded by G12 Evo although, to be fair, I would personally just use what the car left the factory with, unless it’s a G13 car. If you Google it, there is a chart for mixing that shows what you can, and can’t, mix together.

too high indeed. have the oil pan seal checked. It could be leaking. The pans are plastic so you may only have the seal to change.