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Depends who you are. If Saudi linked watch out. Talking to one of my colleagues they are completing massive extra paperwork for insurance going thru Red Sea and that sets the extra insurance premium plus Suez transition fees are up hugely too as Egypt was not getting its massivc canal revenue. I gather more Saudi oil is getting thru Hormuz and the pipeline has been repaired so flows ar me good at tge moment but it will take weeks or months for that oil to bring the prices down to prewar levels so well in to next year probably.

I should have said that eventually the abs and the traction control lights were also illuminated, found the sensor so today's task!

Tap the bottom left hand button under the scroll wheel on right of steering wheel, then use scroll wheel to switch display to mpg.

I do not know, in fact logic suggests opposite, i.e. higher tolerance to DPF pressure loss at end of regen when ash value is high as the base pressure loss due to ash would be higher. All I know is that the ash value has very little to do with actual pressure loss across the DPF / level of clogging. Perhaps, and I am only speculating, ECU could allow higher values of DPF pressure loss at end of regen when the ash value is high, as partly clogged DPF would have higher pressure loss than an empty one. Way to confirm this would be to take a car with low ash value that has trouble finishing regens, set its ash value to close to the limit and see if the regens improve. Never tried that. But most likely nothing / not much would happen until the DPF was actually clogged. A more sinister (but sadly likely) interpretation would be that the accumulated ash value counter as it is implemented was mainly put there into ECU to ensure profits of DPF manufacturers and exhaust workshops from replacement DPFs... who knows. In any case, if the ash value is over the limit yet your DPF is still fine, ash value can be adjusted down.

If you've used the paddles you're in sport mode ...

Hi Nakhar, I have messaged you ( I think!!) please respond via private messaging Regards Steve

Is the engines ECU making more frequent dpf regens when the ash load value is closing the maximum of 80g? Even if the dpf wasnt really that full at all? I would think that its a precaution to protect the engine and dpf.

Out of interest, if I would now edit the ash load value with OBD11 back to 0g with my original dpf with ash load value now showing 57g, what would happen? Even if the dpf wasnt cleaned?

For best fit rather than rock bottom price, it's easy, I have been using skoda-parts.com for many years, parts by Skoda/VW number, checked against your car's VIN, either original part or a decent quality alternative (often a choice of both), and you can still ask them further by sending a message if you are not sure. Some things are worth getting from Autodoc though, as they can be a lot less expensive for premium quality, for example zinc coated brake discs. But you really have to triple check part numbers with Autodoc, both Skoda and specific part manufacturer's, and make sure you get sent what you ordered and not a cheap alternative. It can be a fuss with Autodoc, but can be worth £100+ on a brake disc order alone when compared to say ECP. As for UK suppliers, I occasionally use GSF or ECP as they are both local to me, but for any larger order than £50, like e.g. 2 quality rear suspension springs, I find GSF and ECP are often double the price of skoda-parts. I do not order many used parts, but I have used ebay on odd occassion for these. HTH

Yes, but you can adapt the value to a smaller number. I had to in the Roomster (CAYC engine), as it came from factory with regen causing issues (and fuel in oil) that were only fixed after quite a few regens over a period of a year or so, and resulted in 15g "accumulated ash" that simply wasn't there. It is just a number that can be edited.

@tombee OEMs were cut off before the bend, and the new AMGs were welded on right there

Okay, thank you. But if the calculated soot mass is over 80g limit, the ecu will can disabled or go to error. Regardless of the actual value.

Another thought, if your black plastic trims, perhaps the wing mirrors too, unless they're painted, are now grey, wash them off, wipe over with alcohol, allow to dry and coat with a very thin film of baby oil. Cheap as chips (actually much cheaper nowadays) and works. It may need a re coat every few months, but it's so cheap it's worth it. I posted the wrong link above a better one is https://youtu.be/kVYPYF_n_Ms

Jenolite is good, I think it has both tannic and phosphoric acid in. I used to use Lanoguard, and before that I've used the Bilt Hamber stuff. Have a look at mobile rust doctor on youtube. He recommends the BH stuff, and interestingly suggests NOT power washing, but just dry brushing and treating. He says why on the vids. Yours are ok from what I see in the pictures, definitely worth doing. The suspension bits should be reasonably ok, otherwise it would have been flagged at the last MOT. With the chassis don't be afraid to really mechanically attack the rust. If it's gone through, welding repair is a must. The car is generally worth saving, as they were build better than the modern Stellantis style offerings. I was lucky as I bought mine about 8 years ago and did everything I could see, so the suspension got coated then, with Lano, but every year it needed doing again in places. With BH it gives a dryer coat that is more robust, and is overall cheaper. They also have a tech department which has proved useful when I had my usual picky questions, though their website info is very comprehensive. One thing that is useful is a compressor so you can blow all the dust away before coating, then because everything is dry, the jenolite can creep into everything. I was surprised also how much loose paint flakes got lifted and removed by the air. Another thing is having a large 2 deep plant watering tray to put on the ground to catch the crud, then it's just lift it and tip it. If you use an electric wire brush anywhere, avoid the angle grinder ones. They are dangerous, and burnish the rust instead of just removing it. It looks good, but the surface then stops the Jenolite getting down to the metal. The BH stuff also has rust inhibitors in, so any bits you can't get with Jenolite will be caught by BH, which will also go over grease at a push, so no need to worry about degreasing. My budget for anti corrosion and other MOT related fixes is £2000 a year. Sounds a lot, but it's £40 a week, and where can you get a car for that? If it passes the MOT it's a useful piece of kit, if it fails it's useless, and worth very little. Here's a rustdoctor link, https://youtu.be/1RAw9UqUZXM (and there's more) his vids are good, whereas some, well................I have better ways to waste time. Would be good to see how you get on. Mine will be welded in just over a week, so I'll post the finished results. I will take the liners off again next year, if I had done that 8 years ago I wouldn't have welding to do now. Every day's a school day.

I followed the instructions and smartlink is activated, thank you

Hi everyone, I recorded two videos of a strange noise coming from somewhere around or behind the glovebox on the passenger side, although sometimes it sounds like it’s coming from the center of the dashboard. The car is a Škoda Octavia IV 1.5 TSI e-TEC mild hybrid. In the first video, the noise occurs when I release the accelerator and the car goes into coasting/mild-hybrid mode, with the engine shutting off and the RPM dropping to 0. At that moment, I hear this strange sound. When I press the accelerator again and the engine restarts, I hear the same sound again. It sounds almost like some kind of flap or actuator opening and closing. In the second video, you can hear basically the same sound, but this time I’m manually turning the climate control/AC off and back on. Has anyone experienced something similar or know what could be causing this? Video_01.mp4Video_02.mp4

Yeah, that's pretty much what the service manager at my dealer said regarding driving it to get the SOC back up, unless you're doing a multi-hour trip on the open road at decent (or indecent...) speeds. Far better to occasionally charge put it on a tender, a lot less hassle and expense. This is a good explanation of the differences between EFB and AGM batteries: Do you need EFB or AGM Battery?| VARTA Automotive BatteriesEFB or AGM? Find out which battery suits your vehicle best ► Compare VARTA® battery technology for start-stop and high-energy vehicles.I think Skoda/VAG just tried to save costs fitting EFB batteries with the smart charging system, given the amount of electronics on these cars, particularly the higher spec models an AGM is a much smarter choice IMO.

Yes that's where mine was, however, I can't get the MPG into the middle screen......!

Great info thank you so i had my passenger side rear liner off a couple of days back as i am going to degrease,power wash and treat those and the cills first before i get into the underside. I decided to buy jenolite rust converter to cover first before I use Lanoguard underseal kit to finish off. I’ve also got new capscrews to replace all of the liner ones as a lot of them look rotten. I have attached some pics how bad are these would you say am I fighting a losing battle or am I in a half decent position?

I have a Kodiaq with 18 inch wheels on Goodyear Vector 4 Seasons and they seem good but they've only been on a few months so I haven't used them in bad weather or snow yet. Previously I'd had Michelin Cross Climates on an Octavia 4x4 and they were excellent and would have been my first choice for the Kodiaq but the Goodyears were significantly cheaper

Hello everyone, I'm desperate, after installing all 4 shocks bilstein b4 a noise comes when passing from certain holes, déformations....little knock from all 4 shocks! Everything is new arms, shocks, adaptation(module 14) is done! Sometimes the shocks sims loose! Every bolt is ok Everything sims ok, but that noise... skoda superb 2017 2.0 tsi L&K 280cv 4x4! H&R installed! With oem shocks Everything is ok......

Trying to get the SOC back up by driving the car, especially with the present smart charging is not a great idea IMO and just a waste of fuel The family, Jan 2026 Polo,only seems to keep the SOC around 72/74% and a round trip last May dropping someone off at the Airport bears out the very low charging rates. The average charging ignoring engine off time and starting load was ~ 3.9A at 13.51V and, even after 23 miles the charging rate was less than 4A on overrun at 14.8V (SOC still only 72%). However, I will let it soldier on, the other 7.5 year Polo now passed down the line previously operated almost the same as this one and if I can get 8+ years out of the battery in both I will be happy enough I think, stop/start always works when requested so perhaps running at ~ 70% SOC isn't that such of a disaster after all?. LOG-261C10532-logged Airport Battery Data2 74%.xlsx

thamestrader I was actually in drive when I braked at 75 mph to slow on the M5 near Torquay as the speed was increasing on the slope. Had to use the flappy paddles to put back into 7th. I find the only way to get the car to change gear at sensible revs is to use a really light throttle. My previous Scala 1.5 DSG was a completely different beast when it came to gear changing. Had a new manual Fabia colour edition as a loan car when mine went in for service and that car was telling me to change gear about 2000rpm!

On my 25 Sportline 1.5 DSG it displays in the middle screen when I have MPG showing, this is in normal mode, hope this helps.

235/45R20 fitted to 8J rims are very prone to kerbing damage. 235/55R18 fitted to 7J rims have excellent protection from kerbing damage, give a much better ride, are quieter, and are much cheaper. Changing to 18" wheels might cost around £500 more than fitting new 20" tyres, but the old 20" wheels could be sold to recoup some of the cost. These 18" wheels are listed in the car's CoC (Certificate of Conformity), so it's not a modification...and therefore the insurance company doesn't need to be informed. 18" alloy rims (Kodiaq MK1) https://www.skoda-parts.com/catalog/kodiaq/spare-parts/accessories/wheels-steel-aluminium/aluminium-wheel/18-890.html Continental AllSeasonContact 2 235/55R18 100H (Euro label B B 70dB) https://www.camskill.co.uk/m141b0s11820p235302/Continental_Tyres_All_Season_Car_Continental_Conti_All_Season_Contact_2_235_55_R18_100H_EVC_TL_Fuel_Eff_%3A_B_Wet_Grip%3A_B_NoiseClass%3A_B_Noise%3A_70dB