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Well, I picked up my new Sportline today, and I'm very pleased overall. Some differences to get to grips with, most notably the revised sat nav, and storing destinations. I was expecting the "virtual pedal" for the boot opening, but I can't seem to make it work, so I'm not sure if it's included, though it should be according to the spec. I was hoping the 8 inch instrument display would have been included, but it hasn't, perhaps because this is an early build. I'll check with the dealer and report back. Overall though, very pleased, and happy to report that the heated windscreen is the copper-conductive type, so no filaments.

It doesn't. It says "M1", which is a type approval number meaning that it's a car, with a limited production run.

I did the 1hr access to Erwin and downloaded everything I could, far too much info and prob won't use it, lol.

thanks for all the replies, the car has a full set of locking wheel bolts , but only one nut key, but the "contact area" on the key nut is not very deep,... and depending on the quality of the metal ?.. it does look like the best idea so i wanted to get a spare.

That’s what you might think, but no. Yesterday I contacted SUK Via the chat feature. The operator (who may have been in an Asian country) didn’t know the answer, and suggested I speak to their ‘digital support team’ for whom she provided a number. On contacting them, they had no idea either, despite me reminding them that they were the so called digital support them. They then connected me to my dealer, where I spoke to someone who didn’t know the answer either, but at least he confirmed that there didn’t appear to be anything adverse on the system and if the problem persists they would investigate when the car goes in for its first service in September. So there you have it, a random message that no-one can explain and appears to have no material effect!

mib3 All check your PMs

I'll preface this by saying its software (box or map) and you need to trust the software developer if you're going to use it. That means a good reputation, long time in the market, large user base and probably don't be the first to use a new revision. Something like a JB4 works by sitting in between the ECU and sensor. Its allowing the user to manage boost pressure and fueling only. The ECU is in control so its using factory parameters. The JB4 doesn't send out of bounds information to the ECU, rather it sends altered information to the ECU. For example if the boost limit it 28lbs and you want 5lbs more than standard (Map 3) the JB4 tells the ECU that the boost is less than 28 lbs so it keeps boosting until the JB4 sees 33lbs at the sensor. Because of that the JB4 uses the factory safety systems. If it detects knock from the factory system, for example, it drops into a pass through mode and allows the ECU to have total control without alteration by the JB4. I'm sure you could go full retard but it is some what idiot proof. But like most software you need to understand how to use it to get the most out of it. No, its not traceable. That's just what map sellers say to push people towards buying a map. The ECU only ever sees factory levels or below. That's how it works. Only the JB4 sees the data from the sensor so it can't be recorded by the ECU. That said the JB4 is for "stage 1" maybe "2". Its for a TIP and light upgrades. Why would you pay extra for a map at that level when it doesn't have the versatility of the JB4, affects your warranty and it doesn't out perform the JB4? And when your ready to go to stage 3 tune you can uninstall the JB4 and sell it on ebay and get most of your money back. Its a performance and financial no brainer. Below is a group of dudes taking their cars to a group dyno session as dudes do. Maybe on a different day you get different results but the JB4 is at least comparable. Burger Motorsports JB4 Performance Tune VW / Audi / Skoda – AutoInstruct If your going more than stage 1 and a bit then you can't use a JB4. So changing the turbos or changing the exhaust for a fully sic downpipe with a marginal cat (or no cat) in the wrong position isn't going to work with a JB4. For that you need a "map" so you can go outside the factory parameters without the ECU complaining. Personally I'm skeptical of the whole tuning scene. If I go to an accountant, a doctor, a mechanic I pay them their rate and they use their expertise to do the best for me. Thats not the case with "tuners", they are basically retailers trying to sell as much brand X as possible. The marketing is full of vague claims and light on any testable data on purpose. My favorite claim from APR for their intercooler is "Designed by engineers with lasers". Impressive. Do they mean... like in Star Wars? Pew Pew. I'll probably get a tune at some point.

Tried those NATGIC 2NG1210-H8-W LEDs and changed back to Osram Cool Blue H8 halogens. LEDs looked brighter when observ them from outside of the car, but light distribution was better with Halogens when sitting behind the wheel. This is probably because halogens light the reflector better. So if you want your car look cool, go with LEDs, if you need better light distribution on the road, choose good halogens.

Sorry to hear about the bolt. Sounds like a hell of a job. You've also bet me to doing the console bushes.

Not the post I wanted to make, but i'm stuck at this point so may as well have this thread up to date. I hadn't had time lately to do much with this, I fitted the rear stops for the seats and the rear strut brace. Took the chance this evening to do the console bushes finally. Passengers side came out very easily, I'd sprayed all down the night before to hopefully help getting all off. Drivers side however was fighting me the whole way, until So I'm pretty well stuck at this point, wishbone won't come off as its catching on a bit of the bolt, don't think I have enough access to drill and tap either. Might be easiest to get another subframe than deal with this mess. I'll sleep on it before I do anything, but I'm fairly sure the vRS I got the bits off a while ago still had the entire front subframe assembly on it. Noticed the balljoints are pretty sloppy aswell, another thing to be done.

At last, 3 years after getting the car off my Son with a head gasket leak , buying a used cylinder head 2 weeks ago, taking it to a noted engine builder / repairer only to be told it required skimming and valve sleeve's, got a refund from the seller, and being thouroughly peed off I decided to promise to do the washing up for ever! and look for a new cylinder head. This evening bought a brand new AMC bare head (£loads of money) from a supplier of new engine parts to fit my AMC camshaft kit in to which I bought of a chap in Northern Ireland for £125, last year. Aparrently he had a Fabia VRS and was collecting items to rebuild his engine only to have the car stolen/ smashed up. I need a set of valves,valve springs and other things (never attempted this type of job before). If anyone can advise what else i need that would be great, along with best manufacturers names. Getting a Gates cam belt kit, already have a timing locking kit and pd 150 head bolts. Just need that final push to begin the strip down/point of no return!

We all know this ...... just trying to educate someone who doesn't.

For crying out loud, the OP stated the car was a 2010 1.6TDI right near the top so it cannot POSSIBLY be a Mark 1. Let's solve the problem instead of getting hung up on misunderstandings and nomenclature! Don't keep going to different garages, go to an independent VW specialist near you, don't forget a Skoda Fabia is really a VW Polo in disguise, so a VW guy will be able to fix it.

I had some parts arrive, new coils from awesome GTi and vacuum hose for the brake servo from eBay. The brake servo vacuum hose is 1/2 inch so slightly too big so I wrapped electrical tape around the fittings a couple of layers had the pipe fitting nice and tight. I put a cable tie onto the bracket for the old pipe the stop it rubbing on anything. This isn't the ideal fix and I'll probably change it when I do all the deletes but for now its not leaking from a split hose so it's good enough. got some new standard plugs to go with the new coils. I had to make a new spark plug insertion tool because I've lost the old one I had, a length of hose pipe is what you need. got the new coils in cover back on. I've been on a drive hoping there might be some improvement but the car still gets to 3000rpm and seems to reduce the boost. If anyone can shed some light on what the cause may be I'd appreciate it. I've noticed that when I come off the throttle suddenly it makes a whoosh sound like a dump valve, not sure if a standard car should do that. Maybe it shouldn't and there's a problem with the recirculating value. Maybe I have an issue with the boost control valve...

The spark plugs were changed in Jan last year when the car was 10k miles ‘younger’

You might be able to use it to help others on here. I'm sure people would appreciate it.

When answering, bear in mind that aircon does air heating and air drying as well as air cooling functions.

I think I've fixed the glovebox door so it latches properly again 🤞 Pulling the door upwards from the left hand hinge to realign the catches and a smear of grease on the catch pins seems to have done the trick.

Many thanks to Pete-Ex-Wino for his comments. I'll carry on with my investigation armed with his info. and post the results.

If you've changed the fuel filter with a good quality replacement since the problem started then there's no point replacing it again, unless you think it's dud for some reason. I've had a brand new one leak on a brand new car but if it wasn't for bad luck with cars I'd not have any luck with them.

Sorry I read your post wrongly.

I found this useful table for anyone wanting to diagnose with VCDS (look at "refrigerant pressure"): https://forums.ross-tech.com/index.php?threads/633/ So if you see <4 bar before you switch the engine on and the temp outside is 15deg C or above, the airco is low on refrigerant... Hope this helps the next person G65 Pressure vs. Temperature chart (When key is on, engine is off, static system pressure) 15C - 59F - 4.0 bar 20C - 68F - 5.0 bar 25C - 77F - 6.0 bar 30C - 86F - 7.0 bar 35C - 95F - 8.0 bar 40C - 104F - 9.0 bar Important to note about the G65 sensor: - A reading of 0.0 bar would indicate an absolute vacuum - At Sea Level (atmospheric pressure) the typical reading is 1.0 bar

Maybe my wording was wrong, but I was meaning that that had not happened to me (yet), but I have read about it happening to others in this forum.

So far, I've been lucky in that I've only ever seen pictures of brake discs ending up like that in other threads in this forum! A production issue maybe.

As quick as you can fix one more seem to appear 😔. When you hear the rattle, use your finger to place a reasonable amount of pressure on the area and see what makes it stop. Normally the top grill on the dash, the centre vents in the dash, the info screen and the instrument cluster seem to be the main dash culprits. I’ve also fixed glovebox rattles and some more in both front door panels around the tweeter units in the top corners beside the door mirrors.

So I was able to take the whole trim apart from the dash board and I found that there are only 2 leds lighting the whole panel with the help of 2 clear acrylic rod of 3mm thickness. The rod on the left side of the dash has developed minor cracks in it which is why the light doesn't travel till the end of the trim. I will try to look for some replacements rods.

Figures published by the manufacturer not reflecting real-life usage, is not uncommon.

Maybe if your mechanic is close by, leave removing these calliper guide pins/bolts to him as it sort of might be that your car has no calliper carrier bracket and so the callipers bolt directly onto the "hub bracket" - and stripping the threads in them can be quite easy, so best avoided if you can.

Had a few stonechips and scratches on the doors filled in last week; washed, clayed and washed again beforehand; a quick all-over hand polish 2 days later, then waxed. Wheels are to be refinished in the near-ish future, hopefully....

All check your PMs

When I bought my Octavia I got a spec sheet from this eBay seller for 3 euros; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/224631127243. Arrived in a couple of hours I recall.

If sluggish / hesitant under throttle then consider that all is not well. It is a revvy engine and inclined to spin the wheels away from junctions, so well serviced and issue free is important before any remapping. ? How many miles on the car and when were the spark plugs changed? The DQ200 DSG's from 2013-2015 might be part of the Service Campaign '34H5' which was a Software Update. So you check if it was one that should have had that and it was done. Remapping an engine and a DQ200 DSG is fair enough but buying a used one you really want a valid warranty until you know you bought a good one and not invalidating the warranty if the car comes with one, or it is bought from a trader or dealer you have comeback on.

It's misaligned seals/doors. 👍

Washed at the weekend - Bilt Hamber Touchless then Bilt Hamber AutoWash 🙂

I made a cold start test with my father's car (Nissan 2006 model) and i saw that it needed about 3.30-4 minutes to come to the proper idle rpm level so i must complain so much. The cold starts shown an tiny improvement in the country (maybe the NGK lambda helped) but i have to wait to see in city environment what's going to happen. A similar here in Greece is ''salt and water" (which means like ''all gone and forgotten'')

Bit o'needlework going on: Gaz

Might be worth running Cat7 if you can. The pairs are shielded so less loss and 'crosstalk' than Cat6. Plus if faster fibre comes Cat7 can handle 10 gigabit/second over 100m as opposed to Cat6's 1 gigabit/second.

I use the one shown across the tailgate end of the boot on the righthand side. And the one behind the back seat doesn't take up much space, and is handy to tuck shopping bags etc behind. Chris

@hhcd80 Keeping my fingers crossed for you Pal. Let us know how you get on. 👍

Why not phone Skoda assist.

I'm not sure how it would bend, being clamped to the mount and with no space to move with the dogbone and within the subframe, but we'll see. We can write up comparative notes then, because I ordered the 034 one last Friday.

Ok had this done yesterday along with a full service, labour for the joint, 1.5 hours, at a cost of 90€ + vat, around 112€ -- I did supply the joint so around 220€ n total -- I don't call that too bad, Around £180 all in!!

As thomasaspin has put a higher level scan tool gives so much information that someone that really understands the information has a really good base to start diagnostics from. Viewing live and recorded data should give lots more useful information that can be interrogated and interpreted but it can require time to do this properly - and a person able and willing, or allowed to. As - "re-introduced the codes physically written on injectors (which were the same as the codes previously stored in the ECU) back into the ECU via the computer" I'd want to see that information as I very well know about typos, it will be on their computer but you might (ETA: not) be shown it - but again a mismatch should show up in its performance anyway on subsequent runs of the scan tool. "As genuine Skoda Injectors are over £500 each we would need to send the injectors away to be tested and if necessary." - And if necessary what(?). Unfortunately you are stuck in their complaint procedure and if you try to break from it you very much risk losing whatever the cost of their work is if you take your car elsewhere for repair. Everyone makes mistakes, if they've made a mistake it's up to you if you trust them to rectify it and put your car right. Personally from much bitter experience of the car trade I'd forget any admission of mistakes on their part and consider not putting good money after bad with them if you don't trust them and write-off your loss with them and move on but only you know how you feel about that.

They can bring up live data of each injector if one is stuck open over fuelling or vice versa it will show which injector is faulty and you will only have to replace one , I had diesel knock once and it was due to an injector stuck open

Fyi I've been informed by skoda the firmware update has been released and everyone affected should get a recall, but you can call your local garage and get it booked in

Hello John As I said on the phone I am sorry you have a running problem with your car and that it got worse after we had re-entered the injector codes as part of the diagnostic During diagnosis we scanned the fault codes there was an old code for fuel pressure, this cleared and did not return even after a road test. As we have seen unstable idle faults before often due to injector coding having been 'lost" by the Engine Control Unit ECU we then re-introduced the codes physically written on injectors (which were the same as the codes previously stored in the ECU) back into the ECU via the computer, after doing this the idle was stable. However during road test it appears that a more pronounced diesel knock became apparent. We then advised you that the fault was almost certainly with the injectors. As genuine Skoda Injectors are over £500 each we would need to send the injectors away to be tested and if necessary. I can appreciate that your car appears to have got worse after we worked on it, however there is nothing we physically did to cause this and my view is still that the defect was potentially there already. I have already offered as part of our complaint procedure to investigate further without additional charge, this in line with the Bosch code of conduct as approved by Trading Standards. Yours Tim B.

Well, I return from holiday with some numbers. From towing a Debon C1300 with my bike and a few bits and bob within (700kg), plus luggage in the boot (10kg ish) and I've just refilled. 45 litres to get it back to near enough brimmed and I'd done 383.5 miles works out at 38.7 MPG. The MFD says 38.1, so near enough there. That trailer was more than big enough for my bike and the bits I'd need on a bike trip with the car, so that's certainly the one I'm more than happy to rent again (hell of a lot cheaper than buying). The car was faultless towing that weight and only once going up a steep incline at 50mph did it require a knock down from 6th to 4th. Accelerating was hampered by the trailer, but I was still more than capable to get giddy on from the lights / onto a motorway. As is obvious, the motorway driving was the best and on the flatter sections I was getting into the 40's. I was just the country lanes where the drop came because I was trying to both keep a constant speed both time and the people behind me, but I was being mindful I was towing and my pride and joy was strapped in the back, so was slowing a little more for any sharper bends. I'm disappointed in myself it's taken me this long to try such a holiday, but from that, I'd be more than happy to venture across the channel and go around Europe. But all in all, job's a good un!!!

2.5kg of metal goodness 🔥🔥🔥🔥🔥

Use this instead - https://updateportal.skoda-auto.com/ Can also be found via Google - "skoda map update"