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Colourful sunset earlier. Not sure what type of clouds they are? Still evident now

Looks as though they're coming through slowly now, fingers crossed we are all in receipt of them this year 🤞

I think the world might be starting to pivot away from China actually. The Western political love-in with China is fading and the politicians are actually starting to listen to the idea that China is actually a lot like Russia and not to be trusted. We're shaking hands and rolling out the red carpet to a country which is actively attacking Westen interests 24/7. The US has started pulling out microchip fabrication from China and Taiwan and bringing them back home. That's not making much noise because it takes about 5yr to spin up a chip forge and billions of dollars. Russia as a former trusted partner in energy has opened some eyes that putting a large amount of your critical national infrastructure into the hands of your enemies is actually not a good iea no matter how many directorships it gets you after you are voted out. China itself has probably delayed its ambitions in the Western pacific for a few years now after Russia's play has backfired and resolidified NATO and Western military spending. But China and Russia both play a long game not the 4yr cycles of the West. Russia might be on it's way to being made a 3rd word country but China isn't Russia. They are much more strategic and disciplined. I think we'll start to slowly see some manufacturing be brough back to Europe. Not to the UK we're too expensive but to the Eastern states and probably to Ukraine when the dust settles. There will be big business to be done in Ukraine to rebuild. Lots of money to be made.

For me and many others reboots started after one of the "little OTA" updates, 1896 worked fine for quite some time before.

I'd be all over this if I was able to take it on, however thanks to mine rapidly becoming a project on it's own, I'm afraid all I can offer is an obligatory 'good luck with the sale'. It'd be a shame to see such an original car to be scrapped.

I'd go with Lee's assumption here - If it's the bee sting type aerial there is a signal amplifier built into the aerial base that can eventually suffer from water ingress meaning the circuit board corrodes. Replacing the aerial base is usually the only solution (easily done as you can usually access through the rear hatch and drop the back of the headlining enough to get at the base of the aerial and the nut that holds it on.

Possibly water ingress and corrosion between the antenna and the inside connection under the roof headlining.

Small update, I got the tracking and alignment completed and the car now drives well. They have said the offside camber adjustment on the rear subframe is seized so can't adjust it. They said they'll have to drop the subframe to cut the bolt out and replace 😑 I started looking at the difference between a facelift and non facelift subframe, the facelift has hubs that sit further out to give the wider rear track but otherwise probably identical. I'd figured I could get one from a newer car, it may be in better condition and I could get everything replaced before doing a direct swap to minimise labour. Not sure when I plan to do this, it may be a next year job... On another note, I managed to pick up a spare wheel. Genuine VAG 18" with polystyrene insert and full tool kit, completely unused. It cost me £60 which I thought was a bargain. I picked it up as I'm off to Caffeine and Machine in early August for an Air-cooled weekend and then a drive around Wales so wanted to be prepared!

Back out at crail at the weekend, decided to head up to help a friend with their 9 second street car. managed to get a few runs in as well to test out some changes, look forward to see what the fan club have to say this time 🥰 500BHP Noble owner seemed as surprised as me there was only a car length in it https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y9CbyNlwHAM GTB2566 Fabia vRS https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7gsprhjKbyk 425BHP M140i https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ibdssb45Vd0 390BHP 8V S3 staged too deep on this one so tripped the beam and red lit https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sEyiTySzu30 the 2 AWD Honda's https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MZdk5m21yTU

Our 2013 3T Superb Elegance Combi came with the RNS-510 (Columbus) and the amplifier under the passenger seat. I added a Tiguan handle reversing camera about 6 months into ownership. The RNS-510 is really showing it's age so it seemed like time for an update. I gambled on the Eonon Q53Pro as it claimed to 'Work with Fender Audio' which in some markets is what Volkswagen calls the amplifier package. Turns out, yes it does, with no config needed. The unit works well: - Android Auto and Carplay work fine, flawlessly in wireless mode. The Android Auto seems to be a bit flakey in the wired mode but Carplay was fine in wired mode. - Worked with the amp, no special wiring or adapters other than what was supplied needed - Came with a dual-fakra socket to handle the dual radio antennas (some reviews mentioned that it needed a diversity adapter as it had only one antenna socket, my unit came with the adapter) - It has configurable sleep. I set it to 1-day, so as long as the car is driven within 24 hours start-up is instant. Otherwise startup takes around 30 seconds - The reversing camera, I got the A0580 converter and it just works. The old camera looks low-def on the large screen of this unit when it looked fine on the (comparatively) tiny screen of the RNS-510. I might install the supplied Analogue High Def camera as that should have a better picture and in theory will be able to show maneuvering lines. - Steering wheel controls work fine. The volume can be a bit laggy some times but it does work. Skip forward and back are fine. - Ultrasonic sensors work fine and have the car-info on screen, both front and rear - Bright/dark etc works automatically with headlights. Unfortunately this unit only has red-button illumination. I understand the newer unit has configurable button color - The mic that came with it for hands-free is ok but not great. I'll probably make a near-field cancellation circuit and replace with that. - Sound quality is fine and super-configurable. The tired 10 speakers in that car sound way better than they did on the RNS-510. An oddity is that there is no working front-rear fader. Fading to the rear results in no sound at all. It's not a deal-breaker for me. Yes, rear speakers are working. Bonus is there is a sub-out which I might make use of as I have a Blaupunkt active sub from two cars ago sitting in the garage. It came with a GPS patch antenna, but I got a Fakra to SMA adapter so I could use the inbuilt roof antenna. It works 100% I used VCDS to code out the old nav unit and bluetooth unit. This wasn't needed for correct operation, it was just flagging fault codes in the logs. Downsides (but none are deal breakers for me): - You can't turn it on without ignition being on. Once ign on, it will stay on until drivers door is opened. - Interface is wildly inconsistent both with styling between functions and some odd translations - Charging from the car-play USB port is very slow. I don't use it now, I use a proper QC capable charger and let Android Auto/Carplay be wireless - No 4g modem in this one. The newer unit does have this. - No SD card slot, although it has a spare USB port and you could plug mass-storage into this if you wanted. - Bluetooth data sharing: It seems to be capable of using the data from my phone via bluetooth, but it stops when the Android Auto connects and then to get it working again needs to be toggled and reconnected. - Fuel remaining is mistranslated as "Remained Oil". This is technically correct I guess as Diesel is fuel-oil - It does support pop-up of HVAC settings, but it randomly pops up when no adjustment has been made. I turned it off as the HVAC panel shows everything you need to know anyway - It supports a pop-up for door-open status, but it shows a generic drivers door open picture regardless of door and covers up the interface so you can't do anything else. I turned it off - The row of capacitive buttons below the screen are super-sensitive and easy to mis-press if you're trying to hit an on-screen button near the bottom of the screen. - I've not figured out how to set the AM radio to 9kHz channel spacings yet. Have emailed support to ask. - The old AUX port and the weird iPod connector thingy in the centre storage obviously doesn't work any more as it's not connected to anything. I don't think I ever used this anyway. Oddly, my iPod classic 160GB was still in there, plugged in and still worked. I forgot about it probably 5 years ago. - The volume control is a bit coarse. This may be an artifact of having the under seat amp, but the jumps between levels are significant. Some pics of the unit installed. It does poke out a bit around the edges but not obnoxiously so. So the point of this post is, if you're sick of your RNS-510 but like me were worried about the under seat amp, don't be. This unit was around $500 Australian Dollarydoos including the GPS antenna adapter and the camera adapter.

Get yourself onto ebay and search for the following Thule 135 cm roof bar (these can be square or evo, both fit) Thule Evo Clamp foot for vehicles four-pack black | 710500 Kit 145207 Compare then to the whole price on roofbars That is the correct vehicle. I actually have a complete set that I should list here. Only reason I won't use them again is that I got a genuine Skoda set at a great price around the same time.

I would try scraping gently with a razor or Stanley type blade perpendicular to the screen. If there is something there, it should come off. Machine polishing would be your best bet though. What age is the car and is it still the original screen?

i dont know about the octavia, but the fixing positions are obvious and blanked off with the black plastic trim removed. Competence in fitting is not a problem, but unable as yet to find rails

That was my theory as well. But then why the aligner didn’t tightened them?! Really can’t tell.. I have to do alignment once again as advised by the garage which fitted the diff and its module, but the car tracks straight now and have no issues so far, so I want to enjoy the moment 😂

That is not a face lift model. The face lift has the word SKODA across the back and different lights at the front.

I think it's a location thing. Roads or speed bumps matched with your choice of speed (doesn't have to be fast) are activating the failure mode. Pure coincidence and I'm sure you'd be even more grumpy were you not able to change the parts yourself. My suggestion would be to change tyre pressure and/or fit different tyres. Maybe drop to 17s?

Hmmm. Not sure, but there is also the flap relearn procedure too which as follows @ApertureSis this OK to try to solve Graham’s issue? Turn the ignition on, then off. Hold the ac and recirculate buttons till the panel starts flashing, then all the flaps will move and relearn their positions When the display it stops flashing, cycle the ignition again. Graham, wait ‘til AS comes back with the confirmation to go ahead, or not!!

The 3rd, 5th and 6th sounds like keyfob battery related. I had them on mine when I got it, replaced batteries in keys(both) and they went away. The 4th one looks like a dirty front facing camera(glass more like) on top of windshield. The rest, no idea.

I changed from a 95 Kamiq to new 110 Fabia in January and in all honesty, I've found the difference in power around town and on open roads to be negligible. In fact, the only time it was noticeable was when I had four passengers and their luggage and I was heading up a slip road to join a motorway, I remember thinking that the Kamiq definitely wouldn't have been so sprightly. But that's about it.

My Kamiq is the best car I’ve ever owned for rattles and creaks. Hardly any. I’ve driven Audis, (crappy) BMW’s and everything in between and the Kamiq is by far the better built and put together. Maybe you got a Friday afternoon car? There ISNT a car out there that at some point doesn’t creak or rattle, fact. The complexity of a built car coupled with the imperfections of roads means that at some point any car will rattle/creak/vibrate. Granted, some more than others but still, every single car ever built has and will creak/rattle/vibrate at some point. Simple physics.

I can't understand what/why roof bars would be different in pre and post facelift vehicles...... no roof or door changes were made. Who says they are not the same?

Sorry for being a pest, but I just wanted to know if there was a difference in the two types of key etc, and if that could affect the working/outcome?

Pre facelift cars have a Skoda badge on the boot, facelift cars have the lettering SKODA across the boot instead of the badge.

P293 of my 2017 manual

Yes – very keen to have all the bearings checked/replaced. I've been quoted £400 for the refurb/rebuild. £500 for the getting it out and putting it back in (and I'm hoping that will include fitting a new rear coupling as that's knackered (and I have a new one from autodoc). All this will be mid-August at the earliest. Thanks.

Where/how do you drive that means you are going through bearing at that rate? I realise I am tempting fate now but I haven't changed a wheel bearing in 15 years.

Yes.

yes this is the latest

Nothing spectacular, but better than the driveway…

Just got a word from my sales rep that my car will be ready for delivery on 28.7

Having the same issues, dealer says there are system issues (Skoda server backend), but I don't see many complaints here on the forum so it must be a very selective issue. For nearly a month now the car has refused to accept my S-PIN (suddenly started asking for it at every startup), can't delete main user (so cannot reset anything), tried a factory reset but that doesn't seem to wipe the Skoda Connect / Care Connect info. Now the Kodiak is apparently not activated - but I cannot activate as the car thinks it is!! Pretty rubbish considering this is a paid for service. Skoda Connect works fine, can get weather etc so I know I have data available.

Just been told by Caffyns Ashford that my Karoq 1.5 SEL TSI has a lifetime belt and will not need changing. I am very pleased to have saved £775.00 which I was going to pay in three weeks time. What is a lifetime? at 73 years old will the cambelt outlive me?

Whilst you are in Germany I would suggest picking up the springs by Suplex, they are the best and awkward to source here since Brexit. 5Q0 511 115 R would be a Suplex 39545 but they don't list the S although Eibach OE do, their number R19953 and also Bilstein OE 36-301874

I have a vRS with adjustable suspension as one of options fitted. Initially looked at a Sportline with single motor available immediately as showroom demonstrater after deciding to move on from diesel 4wd Karoq and took wife to see it. She didn’t like the dark interior from the black headlining and didn’t like the idea of downgrading from 4wd. Then she spotted a lime green vRS and we both liked the shape and light interior but not the colour. I searched online and found a grey one with lots of options fitted available immediately but 250 miles away and bought it. So from deciding to get a vRS Enyaq to driving it home was 8 days, with a useful discount as extras make cancelled orders harder to sell apparently. I will never order a car and wait moths oven years again. You end up waiting forever with a car you don’t really want anymore in the meantime and paying extra for the options that make no difference when you eventually sell. (My Karoq was bought similarly from a showroom with a substantial discount as one of the cars not sold due to Covid, and had most extras fitted. They make no difference to trade in value, just a little easier for dealer to sell on) Anyway the adjustable suspension is very useful, I have found that surprisingly sport mode seems to give the best ride. In normal or comfort mode the suspension is too soft allowing car to lurch as it goes over or through bumps and stops. In sport it seems to stay more level through this and doesn’t lurch so much as it comes to a halt?

If there are any there probably won't be any need to precisely measure and drill into the roof which seems like a rather large undertaking what with having to guard against rust etc. At least not if the estate version is like the saloon/ hatch. The mounting points on those models are under rectangular plastic caps. If the OP can check his car then there would, I assume be three each side front to back. On the MkI Saloon and hatch versions there is a black plastic strip running front to back. The covers are on that with a small notch to remove them. Just to the right of the door in this image. Approximate location can be seen in other image of a hatchback

I feel for you @Vidmor I had creaking flaps on a Used Approved purchase late 2022. It was a full dash out job and cost a fair few ££££ I think. All sorted 🤞but I now have a minor creak / rattle near the front passenger door. I think from above the glovebox. (intermittent and can cope with it) Good luck getting it sorted.

its perfect or it would be out again by now ..

That honestly sounds like nonsense. I can't see how the loom would be any different. Find yourself someone with OBDELeven or Carista and you'll know for sure.

I'll take 3, here's a tenner, keep the £1 😁

Finally some promising news. Ordered Octavia IV VRS in Nov 21. Got a build week finally of week 46. With a bit of luck it might be here for Xmas.

@ColinD Many thanks for doing this.

Cleaned the thread. one less keyboard eejit. Sorry for the delay.

Oui you, I see you, get your hands off my potential purchase. I'm also considering a 40 kWh Leaf Tekna in red, to replace our 24 kWh Leaf Tekna in red. The range is not the issue for our local use, we were going to keep the car until it's beyond economical repair. You say Chademo is outdated, but that is the exact reason I'm looking for another Leaf. Solely because I'm waiting to get Vehicle-to-Home installed, to use Leaf battery as home battery: https://www.indra.co.uk/v2h/ For £10-12k, Leaf 40 kWh is a solid choice, as local car that rarely go beyond home-range. You don't need to have it plugged in for pre-conditioning via the app. This feature should also be available in lower spec. The Bose sound system sucks, weaker base than Skoda Canton, slight improvement in clarity. It's night and day worse than no-brand Tesla. Have you considered Hyundai Ioniq? It's more efficient than Leaf, it charges faster and it's on CCS. Despite only 28 kWh, it should be able to manage 100 miles. Downside is that 28 kWh version doesn't have remote app support. Up budget to £15k and the 38 kWh Ioniq and you'll get range to spare plus remote app support. I would get Ioniq 38 kWh if I'm not locked into Chademo and wife needs a new car tomorrow.

I think it may be push in then twist to remove it. Seem to recall doing that on my Octavia. You don't say how old your nephew is but my grandson is 17 and he's gone from a bright young lad to a halfwit in no time at all 🤣

I run these as my winters.

Thanks once again for your very helpful input. The Goodyear 235 45 17's on Eos 17's is an interesting option but the increased tyre width over the generous current 225's may not be my preferred option. Also the Eos 17 inch alloys in good nick appear somewhat rare on an initial search. Thanks to you Jayw13702 for your input re the broken springs on the rear. The car is going in for a service shortly so I'll ask them to check this out. The car is regularly serviced by a trusted local independent garage and I would think they would have noticed if this were the case.

Haldex oil change and pump filter change/ clean depending on which version of Haldex you have is scheduled at every 3 years, but ideally should be done sooner as filter chokes up and causes damage to pump/ motor. The pump filter mesh was choked similar to the picture at 3rd service 7k miles on my previous Kodiaq and the pump/ motor failed shortly after, but luckily was covered by warranty. Attached chart shows time/mileage service item required.

Engine "in" New 3" downpipe and the 6 speed box with quaife LSD that is worth more than the car 🙈. Not too far away now. Next up.. front subframe and suspension.

Little update on the project. Rear beam painted and polybushes installed along with all new brake lines front to rear including goodridge flexi's. Whiteline ARB and Bilstein B16 adjustables. Just waiting on rear wheel bearings to arrive and then can fit the new calipers which have been painted and that's the rear end done then

I've also completed an OEM+ brake upgrade. This one's been a long time in the making! It all kicked off when I found a set of scruffy TTRS 4-piston Brembo calipers and 370mm discs in summer last year for a bargain price, but they were nasty! The calipers were sent away to be stripped and refurbished by Brake Caliper Refurbs (https://brakecaliperrefurbs.co.uk/) whilst I cleaned the rotors and polished the bells by hand. HEL supplied some braided lines specifically for the conversion. Before: After: On the rear are Golf mk5 R32 calipers+carriers with 310mm MTEC drilled discs to match the fronts. EBC RedStuff pads all round and ATE fluid. Due to a comprehensive lack of time (thanks in part to homeschooling and fatherhood in general) I enrolled the services of a good friend and Audi master tech who now has his own mobile workshop. So huge thanks goes out to Rob at RIO Autotech (https://rioautotech.co.uk/) who came out to me and went above and beyond to get the job done. Awesome work! Currently struggling under lockdown to get any miles on to bed it all in, but it looks the part and should provide a lot more stopping power and consistency when we're finally allowed out to play again!