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Got this back from my insurers Claim Update: Based on a detailed review of your claim and the information you have provided, we believe that you were not responsible for the accident. We've sent our views to the other insurer and will update you once we receive their response.

Every other manufacturer with start/stop or AGM batteries requires adapting a new battery. Everything from Land Rover to Hyundai. Do people do it every time? Nope. some it’s done by a combination of buttons on the dash, others by diagnostic tool. Coolant/anti freeze whatever you want to call it, you are correct it is made up of 2 components - water which actually has the heat transfer abilities and then the additive which contains the anti freeze, rust inhibitors, lubricants, colouring and bitrex. The silicat bag is there to slowly deposit the additives back into the coolant mix to extend the coolant life in some cases to 15 years! Without the silicat bag and using the new coolant g12evo you can expect coolant to last easily 10 years. Whereas old coolants contained acids and needed replacing a lot more often. And what you say about customers and staff in dealers being brainwashed is spot on - a lot of the time the staff will push a sale without actually knowing if it’s what people require, simply because they are told to push it

Lovely out at Carburton this evening.👌

Just for clarity and to prevent misinformation. A MOT pass does not mean a car is road-legal or even road-worthy, only that it's passed the basic checks included during the MOT at the time of testing. The last set of UK regs predate LEDs, during our time in the EU the ECE regs were approved and it's these which mean LED lights can be used on UK road. However, a drop-in conversion will not meet the ECE regs so it's technically not road-legal despite the MOT pass.

You can see it’s a defa system. Looks like this is the cable in your video with the earth and a description about connecting it. https://www.defa.com/content/uploads/Documentation/Downloads/Technical-information/Electrical-preheating/1920254.pdf I apologise if I’ve been over cautious but I stand by my belief that you need to be sure before connecting wires direct to ground or live.

The bag is there to increase the service life of the genuine coolant, it will still function without it there, just means it will need changing earlier (based on testing the coolant first of course) No one has said fitting a new battery won’t work without adaptions - but they are there for a reason and that reason is charging profiles, start stop control, battery capacity management. Basically it is used to keep the agm battery charged properly and also to allow the start stop to work at its best, seems you think the people that designed the car are more on a mission to get you than to actually correctly fix the car with their procedures. Ive seen many a coolant bottle split so just keep that in mind - a 2 year warranty does little to help when you are stuck at the side of the road with no coolant

Hi everyone, just updating on my car. Found what the problem was and it was a faulty rear shocker. The rear shocker had a manufacturing fault but it looks perfectly fine by visually looking at it. Just wanted everyone to know if they had this problem or even going through this problem. Hope this helps.

After 10 years of Skoda ownership, covering a Fabia vRS, Octavia vRS and finally the Superb Sportline Plus, it's time to say farewell. Whilst not a prolific poster here on the forums, I've really enjoyed reading about people's experiences, ownership journeys, and advice. The Superb replacement is very different - a Jaguar F-Type R coupe. It certainly doesn't have the space of the Superb 🤣 Thank you everyone for making this a fun place to be an owner and hope everyone continues to enjoy these great cars.

My vRS produces an annoying buzzy sound from the top right corner of the dashboard when accelerating in Sport mode. No buzzing sound when in the other modes, and I'm reliably informed the sound generator is in the middle of the dashboard. Any clues?

Thank you very much for all the time and effort you have spent compiling information for me Carlston, certainly some future options to be thought about. The car is not our main one for long and loaded journeys, but for a test, four adults and not the smoothest of roads with a good dip compression was used to double check any fouling issues and no visible scuffs were seen in the arches or any representative noise. But something that we will certainly keep a check on and deal with if necessary.

I gather its too late but there is a company up in Preston who will re plate them, I know its not the same but I had a Van that could only tow 2800Kg and I wanted it to tow 3500kg, so I contacted the company and they sent me a new plate showing the 3500kgs

That was me, I had the genuine Skoda high line reverse camera retrofitted by a Skoda dealer, a calibration fault code during the All-In warranty eligibility check cost me several dealer visits and £85. Luckily Skoda have dropped the eligibility checks now.

After teatime, got the old bearing out. Do I need to track the steering? I didn't need to remove the track rod end. Ball joint 3 x 13mm nuts were removed but fit snuggly in bracket. I didn't track this side driveshaft came out for boot as only the same ball joint bolts were disturbed. I was getting worried, because I had to resort to breaker bar but I backed off and tried again. Plenty of gt85 down all the gaps to wheel bearing and it came. Looks like and feeling that recessed collar, some material is left behind. Most came out with old bearing. Cheers

Guys, I really appreciate you. This forum has been a fantastic place for me to learn and share. We all want to help each other. I am almost sure that the cable is from the external heater and I would ground it today but I was unsure where to bolt it to. There is a very visible ground point that i can see the vw brown cable is bolted , beside the expansion tank. I am unsure of bolting it there or another spot. I will ask the technician next Wednesday when I am the dealership. I have plenty of time until November, I usually start to use the heater in winter.

I've never owned a V8 (been lucky to drive quite a few though) and it's an itch I would love to scratch before the fun police ban such things (Said tongue in cheek...of course). As I will be retiring sometime around the end of the decade, time is running out for me to get something like the F type and still be able to afford to run it, so although I told myself I was done with silly cars after my current one, maybe...

You can adjust the regen level in settings but not sure if it can be done by the paddles. I'll give it a go.

I done mine last weekend, first time I done one. If you have a couple of trolley jacks and the right tools, torque wrench, locking tools and plenty of patience, it’s doable. Just all depends on how confident you are in your skills.

I've had LED lamps in my front indicators and sidelights for years. Mr MOT man tells me that only place they are not permitted is dip/main beam. And I've found out that the CPU does not like LED lamps fitted in the brake position. It throws up a fault as if brake switch was faulty.

Latest available on ne os 369T...download from here https://mibsolution.one/ user and passwd is guest

I've been working on the Mrs for this swap for a few years but no luck so far 😞 Would be the convertible thought for me.

I see the same as you @SteveTheElder.

On your steering wheel you have right and left arrows. When you have "Settings" visible you see there's an arrow pointing to the right. Logically, you then use the right arrow on your steering wheel to go into the settings menu.

I gave my dashcam footage and screenshot of the SORN information to my insurers, the latter the next day and they we're most grateful and I think that the Ferrari will only be covered for 3P,F&T, so he could find himself with a BIG bill for his car, my car, plus my expenses for legal costs and hire car charges.

I take it that you gave them your dashcam footage as well, with that they can't fail to agree that the other driver was to blame for the accident, anyone who has not got themselves one really should reconsider getting one in their car, especially with the rising cost of premiums these days.

You have answered your own question without realising it, perhaps you do not have an understanding of electrics and the dangers therein, in which case instead of trying to ridicule what I say maybe try to learn from it. Any metal framed electrical appliance should be earthed for safety although there are far too many modern appliances like metal bathroom heaters that save the cost of one wire by using the double insulation cop out. You ask why would the vehicle mains heater be connected to the vehicle ground, to be clear its the house mains Earth connection that is connected to the vehicle metal frame. To answer your question I can simply quote your further text, you give a good explanation. It would not electrocute you because the short to the house supply earthing would blow the fuse or MCB, on a modern system the RCD should trip in 30ms before the MCB would trip, often its both. If this dangling terminal were not connected then a fault causing the vehicle body to be at 240vac would likely kill someone touching the vehicle (especially if it was raining or the ground wet) if the house fuseboard was not RCD protected.

It was simple on the 2018 SEL. Pull the little switch on top of the LH stalk that activates the cruise control then press the button on the lower side of the stalk to change to limiter and toggle the speed you want.

That should give you some security regarding the O ring problem, hopefully they will have machined the bore, pisto, & seal groove correctly, something that large and in a protected environment compared to a small exposed cylinder providing the same force really should not fail as often as they do.

@sdolenec and @Artur111 check your inboxes. All those with the file could also host the download themselves on Google drive or something. The more the merrier

REF cruise cable, its easy enough to remove the windscreen wiper scuttle panel, then the wiper motor etc for access.........then..... Run the cable through the bonnet release cable grommet, along under the scuttle panel, cable tie neatly to the main loom already in there and then into the car through the main loom connection panel at the drivers side, you have to drill a new hole obviosuly, check on the inside for anything behind, it should be clear, you can easily feel the location up behind the pedals. Images from mine when I did a few years back

Hi, we (Wife, me, dog, cat and luggage) recently went on a trip to Kent for a week. This included the usual M6/ M1/ M25 traffic and local driving in and around Westgate on Sea, - We accomplished this on one tank of petrol and covered 588 miles in total. I have seen over 650 miles on occasion (very favourable driving conditions) However, I no longer have to commute and can therefore avoid most traffic jams and bottlenecks. I also live near Wrexham and have good access to dual carriageways etc.

I’ve just re-read my post and realised that I didn’t explain very well. The gauge read one big division below half full BEFORE I filled up with fuel. It read full afterwards. Sorry for the confusion. I used to be a technical author so should know better 🥴

Because i dont have the knowledge or tools to accomplish a complete coolant change. So I change it by small amounts on a wider time frame

I use them in winter time when the weather starts to get colder than minus 10 or minus 15 Celsius. They worked almost without problem each time, but sometimes the earth fault breaker on the wall would pop... Now i have some guess about why it did that 😃 My guess is when the dealership did the cambelt and the waterpump, the mechanic unfastened the cable, because it was on his way , then he forgot to fasten it back .

Just gone out to check and it’s 22.12 now

It certainly puts a smile on the face (of both me and the owner of the local petrol station!) The commute is so much more pleasurable as you care less about the idiots around you and relax. As you say, the engine note never gets old and trying to get it to crackle in different ways in the new game. The performance is astonishing! I do miss the versatility of the Superb, but still hugely happy with the decision to go impractical 😀

Its not exactly something I would recommend for a DIY job for anyone, but then i dont know your skill or tool levels. If you are having to ask then I am assuming you may not want to attempt it really. Not without someone that is skilled assisting you. Do you have the correct timing tools? The torque settings as well as all the replacement bolts that are stretch bolts, including the engine mount bolts and their new torque settings? Also a lot of people forget that to properly bleed the cooling system after requires a diagnostic routine being ran on the car to remove all the air bubbles from the system

UPDATE / SOLUTION Tested compression - low on cylinder 1, OK-ish on 2 and 3. Towed to mechanic - his analysis was same as here - timing chain jumped. Stripped timing chain, crank out by one or two sprockets. Fitted new timing chain kit. Car started but very uneven, not running - v poor compression on cylinder 1 - fine on cylinder 2 and 3. Head off - valves damaged on cylinder 1 - OK on two and three. Off to engineering shop - head skim and new valves all round - thankfully no damage to guides/seats. Re-built and running sweet. Takeaway: Don't park up hill in gear.... liable to jump timing chain - fix that stretched handbrake cable... After jumping one sprocket car kept running but poor performance, excess fuel consumption and ultimately killed CAT. Thanks again for the helpful advice provided here - spot on!

Yes 560nm. I had it done initially in the uk via a TVS agent the was 360bhp 530nm I then fitted the r600 and gfbdv+ so when I was over in Holland on holiday I popped in and got them to recalibrate for 99 octane fuel and to account for the additional mods. Awesome crew there. Cool, sounds like next little mod will be the ARB and front bottom arm bushes then

Assume this was a similar issue to the Octavia 2L TDi where the water pump sticks closed due to different expansion rates to between the metal sleave & plastic parts? My Octavia is at ~210k km & I'm assuming the "original" timing belt. My dealer recommended to change it at the last service but I rejected as I said I'd had the water pump changes around 120k km as a "warranty repair" & they would have changed the timing belt at the same time. However, the dealer couldnt find any reference to the change in the system. I'll probably get in done in the new year during the service. should be around 230k & 10 years young by then.

I'd try a different battery brand, following the battery change instructions to the letter.

Well...Having just done my first ever lap of the Nurburgring TF.... I will say that there is enough power in stock form for the 280. Brakes are OK too, albeit I have a new set of discs and pad but nothing fancy. Stock size and ATE ceramic pads. The suspension is not keeping up, I do not have DCC. I do have Michelin PSS tyres. Still very fun and scary at the same time. I also saw a CZ plate 280 there. Wonder if it's a member here.

ACC is the best thing about the car (except for the overtaking undertaking glitch). All you need is a good understanding of what is a safe distance to the car in front or better anticipation of the road ahead so you can drive in the appropriate lane. All things a good driver should be able to do ACC or no ACC.

My Octavia has never been updated AFAIK.

I first had ACC 7 years ago, initially I was frustrated when it started to slow down a long way behind a slower vehicle, but now I just take over the accelerator to maintain speed (or slow down gently) and use the extra time it gives me to pull out and overtake safely. Compared to CC on busy British roads it's a game changer IMHO, and I never want to go back to CC again.

Maybe use the Opie Oils checker.

The centre pin is the feed to the cigarette lighter - the upper pin is for always live, the very bottom pin is for switched live. You dont want to be messing around with what you are saying to do as you are backfeeding an entire Terminal 15 or Terminal 30 circuit which can cause big issues... There is not a whole lot of room to run the wires but there is more than enough to run them easily by running over the top and back down. The fusebox is extremely easy to access and takes around 10 seconds to unclip the slow release and the 2 upper clips to drop the glovebox door and expose it fully. And there are many many ground points in the area and the glovebox light is not one of them, you have the entire metal dashboard frame with around 3 big bolts and a few smaller torx screw mounting points all in the glovebox area and the A pillar area. Its no different on a MK3 - run wires down the A pillar (properly!! and not over the airbag) remove the dash end piece and flap the glovebox down to find and attach to the suitable grounds and fuse.

Out and about around Llangollen at the weekend.

Haha - the good lady and I are still together, but we don't have or plan to have kids. It's certainly been an entertaining first week of ownership, especially in torrential rain on Pirelli P Zeros - yes, they are as bad on the Jag as the Skoda!

That needs to be a good dealership with good workshop staff, and that is rare. A good Independent that actually does Preventive Maintenance and inspections, services brakes etc and chargers a fair price for a job well done is a better bet.

Have a look at these for car mats https://www.carmats4u.com