Leaderboard

Hawker dragonfly ,on the garden wall

GTI's just hit 36: I've been toying with the idea of selling her. Trouble is, I then go out for a nice drive, like just now, and decide not just yet 🙄 WBAC keep emailing me, telling me they 'urgently' want it, offering £16,200. That's good, 'coz it makes me think 'Well you ain't having it for that. I'd rather it was sat on my drive' Gaz

apparently there is this (as a starter for 10) https://www.gov.uk/government/publications/the-public-charge-point-regulations-2023-guidance/public-charge-point-regulations-2023-guidance

Hi, Has your Superb really done 430000 Km? You were probably trouble free for a month because the battery disconnection had reset some errors that might have caused errors from sooner from just being in the memory. But, as said above, do an autoscan to get the DTCs in the controllers.

I recently took the plunge and bought a piggy back and a pedal box from DTUK. They absolutely transformed the car in the most aggressive settings. I always found that the pickup was somewhat sluggish, but with the "extra" power and adjustable pedal response, the car is a lot more fun to drive on the narrow b-roads around where I live.

It's not as simple as just voltage and current, that measures VA not kW - that depends on the power factor too.

Many petrol stations also keep 25 or 50l calibrated fuel cans for self-testing their pumps between visits by Trading Standards and/or engineers (Eg Gilbarco ).

There's a thought: Equipment used to measure and sell petrol is controlled by law and all pumps have to be made to an approved pattern, tested and approved before they can be used. Fuel pumps are tested by Trading Standards Officers for accuracy and to make sure they are within the law. We also keep a record of any complaints made. In addition, many petrol stations employ engineers to test their equipment for accuracy to control the stocks and can use authorised officers to certify new equipment or equipment in use after a repair. Fuel pumps are sealed to prevent adjustment and fraud. They must operate within tight guidelines. The equipment is designed to measure the volume of fuel sold and then multiply this volume by the price per litre, to calculate the price to pay. In this calculation, the price will be rounded to the nearest penny. The fuel is measured by volume and this is used to decide the price to pay. When the price of fuel increases, the amount of fuel becomes less. As the volume sold increases, the price goes up. The law says any error on selling petrol can be no more than 2p. The price charged per litre must be clearly visible to the user before they begin to dispense fuel from the pump Does any of the above apply to EV charging points and if not, why not?

odd one is it not as so many chargers and not many people there so is it the model of charger or power to the site ? Surely cannot be the site and the charger should be supplying very close to 50 kWs with the Mini's max speed and only 37% SOC. Odd one. If I was there with the Zoe I might change to the AC charging as it would probably be cheaper and not a whole lot less slower ie hopefully 22 kWs and saving many pence per kWh.

i had to go to Dublin today, to our main HQ. I hate having to go up there. but, the trip does mean i now get to play ALL the rounds of the game! good bye Connect Hello Shiny new Courier. You have a flat, fat face, but a nicer cockpit.. lowest delivery odo i think i ever seen! and so, Round 1!!

Hi I've got a 12 plate Octavia 1.4 TSI CXCA engine and cant for the life of me work out if i need to get the chain replaced or not. Part of the problem is that because I'm not working (medical issues) I have no commute, therefore I do very little mileage, probably 2K per year because all I do is go to the shops once a week. I do have a legit VCDS cable and using the latest software have tried to get the details that would tell me the amount of slack in the cable. However when i go into measuring blocks I don't see the values everyone quotes. I've even gone through the "groups" but dont see anything. I'm unfamiliar with VCDS if honest and have only ever used it once when I thought I needed to code my hands free kit, turns out I didnt even need it /doh Can anyone tell me what I need to do to see the stretch in the chain? Engine is chain (CAXA) Address 01: Engine (CAX) Labels: 03C-906-016-CAX.clb Part No SW: 03C 906 016 AK HW: 03C 906 016 C Component: MED17.5.5 G 9059 Revision: LCH13--- Serial number: Coding: 0000072 Shop #: WSC 73430 790 00083 VCID: 68DF720B5BF941D6EB-803C VINID: 91D49268206A2530812090C80CAA0DE8E7 No fault code found. Readiness: 0000 0000

My brother had 64 plate 2.0 TDI Yeti 4WD and 17” wheels I believe, he says my 4WD Sportline has a smoother ride than his Yeti. I don’t find my Sportline to have excessive road noise or a hard ride compared to the Touran I had previously, but I did have tyres at the max load pressures on the Touran. I guess it’s what you become used to. I drive 3 times as many miles a year in a Mk 7 Transit minibus as I do in my own car, Transits are not known for their soft comfy ride!

My 2023 1.5 TSi isn't especially quiet, although the switch to Michelin Cross Climate was a marginal improvement. Mine is developing a few rattles from the dash too. Interestingly I recently purchased a 2021 Octavia iV estate (same engine) and it's a considerably smoother ride (16' wheels) and noticeably more refined in the cabin, compared with the 2 year newer Karoq.

For FWD models . The SE and SEL run the same 215 section with a drop from 55 to 50 profile on the SEL a 12mm difference in sidewall. Is there a noise difference? Not that I could tell. Is there a ride difference? A slight one over coarse surfaces, probably similar to putting a few psi extra in the 17's . Going to the current sportline gets an increase in width to 225 and a drop to 40 series tyres. That's a reduction of 30mm in sidewall to the SE and 18mm to the SEL. So a far bigger difference to the Sportline and in my opinion the 40 series construction can really be felt. I didn't really concentrate on noise difference because in the first five minutes I knew there was no way I could live with the 19's day to day. I was coming from a Yeti and my only gripe with the Yeti was the crashy ride around town and I didn't want that again. Why did I go go SEL instead of SE? The swap from 17' to 18's was not great and the SEL has a fair step up in kit that I wanted. I'll also point out I didn't try a 4x4 with independent rear suspension and 45 series tyres as I didn't want the running costs of the 2.0.

I think I may have identified why I have so much trouble with the virtual pedal 'kick' - I think the virtual pedal becomes a non-existent pedal if the car has been locked with the remote and a front door handle touched to disable the keyless unlock. I tend to always disable keyless unlock every time I lock the car. I stumbled on this when I couldnt open the tailgate with the virtual pedal or the button on the tailgate, it would open with the button on the remote.

Been shunted out by someone fed up with doing the Hokey-Cokey nonsense to start the engine? I did the same with the brake pedal to ECU switch on my Alhambra, I was in the habit of left foot braking with some throttle when laden going over speedbumps to stop the suspension crashing (I would slow down now!!!) and it allowed me to do so (before it was cutting the power) but after a few months it brought up a fault code of "brake switch operation implausible, actually I think it was the Galaxy before the Alhambra. It could be the same sort of deal where it will ignore that the switch is reporting that the driver is riding the pedal for quite some period of time so the previous owner may have done it some while back. Does the Citigo have the gear indicator display telling you to change up or down? Is it working? Shunting out the switch would also stop that nonsense.

Thanks PP much appreciated.👍 A few from a wander around the walled garden at Floors Castle.

3 Bar fuel system, check that someone hasn't fitted a 4 bar one due to duff info from ECP lookup by reg or similar.

Snap!

Surely on, what I assume, is a new car, the brakes may need 'wearing in' but I'm sure that in 8 months, they probably were worn in about 7 months and 3 weeks ago. Go to a different dealer.

There may be another parameter to consider. 2WD Karoqs have Torsion beam rear suspension, whereas 4WD versions have a multi link setup one may be naturally quieter due to not transmitting so much road noise.

Perhaps Mercedes F1 teams need some lessons in this as well as using scales?

I didn't and I had realised it had been copied.

Your ideal car could be a 2021 "Edition" and buy a set of 16" steelies. Keep the 19" wheels for when you sell.

The trouble is they don't seem to recognise that their attitude and pricing is driving customers away. If they dropped. Thier rates a bit and had a better attitude they'd keep more customers which would be better and more profitable for them in the long run.

Everything works fine except for the cooling fan. All cables are checked, And i am guessing its just the thermostat switch in the raditor that is wrong. (i bought one for a car with AC), have ordered a new one with only two pins. I put the old one in boiling water and still didnt connect. The second thing is that the radio (i am guessing) is, i dont know the english word but alaways consumes electricity. Even when its "fully" turned off, my phone is still connected to its bluetooth. aaah okey i see, i think my father has one of those. About the battery, i have a charger so ill just try that overnight then! Thanks mate!!

neither did I

Well. Radio received yesterday. Fitment is 100%. Quality. Ok ISH. Manual buttons feel fine. But not the same soft feel like oem. Gps antenne has to mounted with sky above it. Other units i have seen can be with antenna under dash. With 2 gb ram the start up of apps, can be a bit slow. But hey i am a kid that lived with 33.6 modems... Build in radio tuner can be set up to give power to the antenna, so the fakra antenna of the car gets power. But still it has noise in some places, so will try to get a seperate booster. Or just use the android auto. And radio apps. Android Auto auto connect with bluetooth, and delivers great sound, not the low muffled like other units. It can play LOUD. So all in all, I believe the. Heap units has come a long way in the last couple of years.. so for the money. Fine. If the AliExpress Ones are the same, then go for them for half the price. Screen looks fine, have to try in bright sun to check. I might get some matte screen protector to minimize glare, and protect the screen. Power connection to the radio was easy, had to disconnect one 2pin to get it to turn of. After selection of my 2013 rapid. The can works great. Showing doors open, and in the car info. Showing odometer. Coolant temp. And so on.

. DC chargers use lots of power to convert 3 phase AC to DC which must add to the price ie the circa 10% loss has to be paid for and operator will no doubt. Wonder what device they would use to measure kwhs ?

2 chargers out of order here. 1 will not unlock and one had DC CCS out of service. So 2 CCS available. The BMW sitting for 4 hours charging on a 11kW AC. 31 pence for it. 37 pence for the rapid. Getting 39 kW max on this one charging from 50%. Minimum charge £5. Which is why charging now and next time I will also get £5 worth.

I may have missed it while reading through that - but I did not see any reference to periodic testing for energy metering accuracy - as is the case with liquid fuels.

Agreed - this is my solution. USB stick (music) in left hand USB C port and 90 degree USB C - C (for phone charging) in right hand port. Completely blocks the cigarette lighter, so often end up using the rear one for charging. I found the lack of SD card slots frustrating

As said that is a bit of work and may be totally unnecessary. The sniff test is not a good name or description for non-UK and what actually happens. You can get small test kits off eBay (and other places that test for combustion gases in the coolant, either litmus test strips or liquid test kits, just as one example. - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/123735248113 You can also read up on symptoms but these are not always that obvious particularly on an engine that might not be fully set up correctly - but your engine might be set up reasonably or well, we do not know. Best is to get your dad to explain and show you how to do cylinder compression tests on the engine. With an old (or any car really) car you should always have all electrics (other than safety ones) switched off if the engine is not running and not turn them on until the engine is running. A good routine to get into is to turn all electric (except safety) items off before you turn the engine off and certainly before you get out of the car. When you get into the car and seated, turned the ignition on, but do not start the engine, check all the warning lights are on that should be and those that go out do go out, whilst you are doing this you can put your seat belt on. Once you have your seat belt on check the handbrake is on and car out of gear and start the engine. When you have started the engine do not turn any electrics item on yet (especially radio and phone) but instead listen, look. smell, feel, the engine and car for anything unusual, if all OK drive off. I am not sure about your present wiring, if there was a three pin fan switch fitted before and you have replaced it with another three pin switch assuming the correct part was fitted, when it was not, that is one issue that might explain the joined wiring but if it was a two pin before it is more of a mystery to me. The radio and phone added items are another area I would check. You may not need to get a new battery. If you check the existing battery has electrolyte (acid) "water" covering fully all six cell plates and the plates do not look too damaged or buckled that battery, top up if required before recharging, older cars give more chance for the battery to be recharged to give more useful life (subject to the wiring being correct and not draining the battery unnecessarily. You best to use a suitable charger (maintainer) with low not high amperage or setting, 2-amps, 3-amps, 4-amps, certainly not more than 6-amps for your 62 Ah battery. The lower and slower the recharge then, for want of better words and description, the deeper and longer lasting the recharge, this could take many hours, probably overnight perhaps longer depending on how low the battery is and charger amperage. Car batteries are one of the most oversold car parts, often prematurely replaced as "distress sales" as with you now, preventative charging before they get too low will give much better and longer life. Neglect of battery is the number one reason for breakdown call outs in the UK. Some notes if you want them, some of the information varies and expands the between the links, some obviously is repeated. Best check your car battery now - (why?) [ summer ] - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/506654-best-check-your-car-battery-now-why/#comment-5688832 Car battery, now is the time to check it [ winter ] - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/499006-car-battery-now-is-the-time-to-check-it/#comment-5598720 flat batteries on the first working day of each year - https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/519903-flat-batteries-on-the-first-working-day-of-each-year HTH.

Yep, our main dealer is local, 30 minutes walk or a 10 minute bus ride, so very convenient and I was very happy with their business model - that was until Covid struck. The restricted interaction with customers and the no frills basic servicing at inflated prices must have struck a chord with ‘em because since then they’ve mostly adopted those practices and become very mercenary too. Being there is not a pleasant experience these days. Booking a service has to be planned 6 weeks in advance and the mere mention of a warranty fault gets the stock response ‘we’ll have to charge for diagnosing and you’ll be refunded if vindicated’….! I’d like to think they’d see me as a good customer having bought 3 new cars in 5 years and I’ve never bothered ‘em for a courtesy vehicle, but no, I feel I’m a inconvenience to ‘em and that contributes to the given overall impression that they’d be happier if their business didn’t involve the need for customers. I have considered taking my servicing business (no more new Škoda for me) elsewhere but the next nearest dealer has access and serious parking issues and the second option alternative dealer is owned by the same company as my local agent.

That likely means tools, hours of work, and new gaskets. A coolant sniff test will give you the same answers about the condition of the gasket faster, cheaper and with less work. There are several other people think there is an issue with your radio wiring too. Since no-one else has suggested this, I'm going to suggest downloading manuals and wiring diagrams from Erwin. Cost about 7 Euro and an hour of your time.

Use a fully charged battery to get home. Should be easy, and if you have a spare, relatively stress free. Then see if you can remove brushpack/regulator with alt in situ with all your tools available. Brushes may be worn too short, or stuck in holder.

The discs are just discs but the magic happens with the ATE ceramics Was talking to my friend who replaced his dads beemer front disc and pads today with the same combo and 2 years he changed front and backs with same combo on his own beemer, and discs still look brand new and coating still there. If you go ATE ceramics for our car they’re directional and seen some vids of people putting them on the wrong way as they don’t know they’re directional but instructions are fairly crap at explaining it, in fact all manufacturers of directional pads seem crap at explaining I think in general BMW’s have much better brakes, next time you see one look at the discs and usually super shiney m; whereas mine never are but then I don’t drive like a bmw driver 😁

Spend a few quid on yours, Nick.

@Rory A car in the showroom will need First Registered maybe before the next quarter or a new Registration month. It can go in any Staff members name, then become a demonstrator. 3 months or 3,000 miles and then a nice dealers profit because Tax Payers / HMRC are generous. Ex Management cars. Kidology. People are sucked into their fibs.

People should check their tyre condition before every trip (in theory) it is when all is said and done your only contact with the road (and life!) I checked and logged tyre pressures on the works van I drove with 5-6 people aboard. I took it for an MOT and the inside of one tyre had a long bubble (about 8") The tyres were new 3 months previously and my daily checks had shown pressures were checked daily so all tyres were replaced free of charge by the suppliers. With another make!!

Today's update - dealer contacted me and advised that the place that they sourced the car from has done similar things before so they were none the wiser. However, recognising that they sold the car to me 'not as described' have offered to pay for a respray either at their repair shop or one of my choice. As I live 300 miles from dealer, will be my choice ! Just need written confirmation as they have asked for me to pay for it then they would reimburse me afterwards.

Since I've done retrofit of VC, steering wheel and Columbus display. I changed ambient light, climate menus and main menu icons to new ones from MIB3

When filling the tank you should stop at the first click of the pump. If not the canister can fill with fuel.

Getting a used SE L in graphite grey 🙂 low mileage

Gone are the days of vacuum fuel starvation. My Mums Ford Prefect 105E (81MPJ!) regularly had that issue on loner journeys in the summer. On one occasion when we’d had to stop as the engine was hunting like crazy and finally stalled, a passing RAC patrolman on his bike stopped and asked we were OK. Mum explained that unfortunately we weren’t members and he said don’t worry about that. He asked what the problem was and Mum explained what had happened, and the patrolman walked to the back of the car. He then opened the petrol cap and with a huge rushing of air and a bang as the tank returned to its correct shape, the problem was solved. Mum now made sure she’d vented the tank at the start of any longer drive she undertook.

Hi, Did you have a look on the wiki.ross-tech, to see what they suggest as possible causes and solutions for the DTC which raised thru your VCDS scan? Without having a look to the wiki.ross-tech myself, I would think the microphone hasn’t been plugged back. This would be consistent with the default code pointing a « No communication with microphone control unit ». Other possiblity, if you own an official VCDS version from Ross-Tech, you can ask for some support on their forum (also an english forum, sorry). I am French too, you can PM me if you want.

I find it impossible to accept that a manual gearbox could behave as this one allegedly does……?

Does the little red light in the key light up when you press the buttons? If not, have a look at the battery you fitted in the key, some of them have a clear plastic sticker that needs to be removed.

Agreed, prices r ridon-culous of new cars now!! Can't get the performance, value and practicality of a Superb for the price I paid many years ago. Gandalf has now ticked over 7 yrs.....and I don't have any plans to replace it any time so soon 😁

Mine will be 7 years old by the end of 2024 and I´m thinking about to replace it. But prices for brand new car have become crazy (in France)… I’ve specced Superb Estate Mk4 L&K, Arteon Estate, VW Passat Estate, ID7 Tourer (just to have an idea) but all come between €64000 to &71000 😳 OMG ! It’s getting crazy! I think I may look a 2021-2022 second hand car…