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That VIN for a Denso system gives matrix part number 5WA 819 031. Skoda only want £326 plus VAT retail. 😆

The 'slop' in the conrod bearing would need to be truly enormous to significantly affect the timing of that cylinder - at which point either the rod would let go, or the piston would contact the valves.

Metal in oil is never a good sign. Hopefully its a simple fix. Still dont see why a bad bearing would cause misfire unless its completely gone but if theres metal in the filter then something has worn. Hope the weather gets better for you Alasdair

You need to leave the drive plugged in for a week or so (sometimes less) with the infotainment on (and preferably set to the navigation screen) as you drive around. These updates are big files and it takes time for them to download to the car, and it seems downloads only happen when you are driving. Keep checking the database version screen to see when (if?!) the download has been successful. I note you are using a portable hard drive - something is telling me the car doesn't like those - I use a tiny 'double ended' flash drive which is small enough to leave in the usb c socket and still close the sliding lid above it. Photo of one I use attached.

We've a 2015 Polo 1.8 GTI with the same DQ200. A mate had a 2015 Fabia 1.2 with the same DQ200. Obviously different settings due to the differences in power, but they feel like very different DSG's. Across the three DSG's we have/had, I've never found Eco mode to live up to its name. Quite possibly my driving style, but with the vRS (DQ250) I had, I tried over a sustained period with Eco because people on here thought there might be something up with my car because of relatively poor mpg - turned out it was fine, just my crap h-t-w journeys that were killing it. IIRC Andy (Auric) on here always had his meteor grey vRS in Sport mode, never anything else, and with no reported detrimental effect on his mpg. Gaz

Thank you. Amazon have delivered, part fitted, under tray is no longer hanging! hurrah

You can probably adjust that in the settings I changed ours so all doors unlock on one click of the remote so I'm sure you can adjust yours if settings aren't as you like.. I can back from stansted yesterday after a break in Portugal I drove below speed limit due to the bad weather and car reported 55 mpg on the trip (80 odd miles) not bad for a 150hp 1.5 petrol.

As you have VCDS use that. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1e9imH68urw From the youtubers comments. - Green zone: newly installed chains and low-mileage cars 0 to -2 deg. - Yellow zone: -2 to -4 deg. Some sources suggest to be alert even if the value is below -3 deg. and monitor the value almost as often as check your oil level - Red zone: -4 deg and less. Be ready to replace the chain. Some people complain about chain noise at these levels, some say it is quiet. Cars are driven with the value from -4 to -6 deg, but this is a lottery. There is also an inspection port on the lower timing chain cover where you can remove the bung and can count the number of teeth exposed. A third method to measure timing chain stretch is to remove the timing chain top cover and when at TDC measure the distance between the timing marks on the camshaft ends. Kev.

That is my last trip with 2.0 tsi 265p.s Dunno diesel how it will perform. My last diesel was Superb 2.0 tdi 190p.s 4x4. It was average 5.6 for the same trip and conditions.

From what I can gather after searching that part number and looking at pictures I can confirm that that is unfortunately the one. Thanks for helping mate I'd still be scratching my head otherwise.

Four things on that readout stand out straight away - all intermittent. - System voltage too low. - Fuel pressure regulator. - Fuel pressure sensor. - Fuel injector number 2. These all need to be checked.

I like the Karoq. It is my Semi retirement car. Previously things like Nissan Primera, Rover 75, BMW3, Before that Fords, Motorbikes, Land-rover but my life was different then. Wife had Nissan Micra and Note. I looked at the Kodiaq but didn't need the extra space over a Karoq. Besides car parks around here are not exactly generous. So I got the SE L with Varioflex seats as I do need to carry a lot of kit in Peli cases at times. Though I don't need 4x4 or off road. Picked up a 6 month old 3K5 millage dealer demo on a good deal.

Which is why I said golf GTI mk8 which is the 245PS engine same as the mark 4 Skoda

Wow, that pollen filter looked to be an oroginal one from the car was new...

Thanks to those who have shared their experiences. I've made my order this afternoon! L&K Hatch with the TSI 265, silver pebble, cognac interior and 19" alloys. I'm really pleased to finally settle on a specification and excited to drive it as I've never actually driven the TSI! But looking at the videos online and the stats, I don't think I will be disappointed in it. Now for the long wait....

But the OP's car isn't a facelift it's a mk4 so a 245PS...... As per their pic of it.

Hi I'm kev, recently brought a 2006 2.0tdi octavia for 150quid absolute bargain has a couple of issues mainly airbag light on and front windows not operating on drivers control panel

Been recommended by a friend who uses them and they've been around for years as well, but I've always used main dealer until main dealer quoted me their silly price and it's made me look elsewhere. Will report back when work done, but excited to have no judder after 5 years of never knowing whether each journey will be a smooth one or otherwise!

Looking at your pic, and the parts catalogue, it looks like those metal pipes aren't part of the matrix, but unscrew/unclamp from it?

For a Fabia Mk 4 with DSG transmission and START-STOP active, It's not pressing the brake pedal that causes the motor to restart, it's the opposite - it's taking one's foot off ("releasing") the brake pedal that causes restarting (as it says in the Owner's Manual). This may well go against the grain if one is used to driving a manual transmission car and following 'good practice' when coming to a halt by putting the car in neutral and engaging the handbrake to prevent the vehicle rolling. A practice that, at night, will ensure that the car's brake lights do not illuminate and dazzle a driver queueing behind (as EltonGone has said). This 2013-2019 Honest John discussion may be of interest as it touches on driving automatic cars and Start/Stop systems. https://www.honestjohn.co.uk/forum/post/index.htm?t=103354 This link is to a driving instruction 'automatic car' video In the Comments section this question was asked ...one question as I'm being taught by my dad instead of paying for lessons- when coming to a stop at traffic lights which you will be at for a good minute or so, is the pattern handbrake + park, handbrake + neutral or would you just keep your foot on the brake and stay in drive? The reply given was We would normally stay in drive and not go to neutral. We would use the handbrake or parking brake when 'a pause becomes a wait'. Especially after dark when our bright red brake lights can become dazzling to a vehicle behind us.

You need to find out if it's a Valeo or Denso system, either might be fitted. Look what brand the blower motor is, if you can access its label. With that info, and your reg number or VIN, I can probably tell you matrix PN.

I've had similar thoughts myself but I've never really looked into a remap. The best thing I think would be to find someone who can do a custom map to your requirements.

My problem is that I kept the same Nissan's for about 15-18 years each (over lapping) and it was Company cars before that. So when you say "each generation is something new", my Karoq is about 3 generations on from my last new car.... and the recent generations of cars, in general not just Škoda, have moved quite a way. However I am getting there.

Gen3 Gen4

Yeah, tell me about it… I owned a couple Skodas before this one and I’ve worked in a company that dealt with mostly VW group cars during my studies, so you’d think I’d be well versed in this sort of stuff, but with every new generation everything keeps changing. For example, my friend bought a brand new Scala STY last year and he’s somehow been receiving automatic OTA updates without even having a Skoda Connect subscription, so basically everything is possible.

I find it all somewhat confusing, being on my first Škoda (first VW group car of any sort) having had Nissan's for the last 20 years. However, this forum, when you get used to it is a gold mine of information

There are several threads on this subject See here https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/7-audio-electronics-and-security/

No that is no longer required. I had to do it with my first Octavia in 2021, but last year I didn't have to do it with its replacement.

In the boot compertment on the left hand side there's a door you open and that's where it is located

I love this solution 👌🏻

A replacement part is: 3T0810773A The motor part of the mechanism wears over time as it locks and unlocks each time you lock and unlock the car. Either buy cheap of ebay £20 or Horton Skoda sell them online for about £48. To change it you unlock the flap and open. Remove a screw. Remove the fuel cap Pull off the rubber cover surround off. I think there is one more screw to undo. Remove it by sliding it out. I would advise you cut the cables and reconnect them on the old and new one. This a is easier than removing the internal boot trim to get a the awkwardly placed plug and B makes it easier to replace next time if you go for a cheaper unit. Did mine about a month ago.

I really doubt you will be able to fit that size on Octavia without heavy modifications. ET58 is too large to fit. And then you also need to take into account that not all tires from different brands are the same width. I currently have 235/40/19 and on et45 / 19" wheels and I had issues with tires rubbing the front inner arch liner. My car is lowered with KW coilovers. I had to lift the car for 5mm in the front.

Besides the fact that the brakes are bigger on the 265 engine, the discs are also ventilated on the rear. I recommend this engine, it is fun to drive with enough power. The consumption on the highway at a constant speed of 130 km/h is about 8%.

Try the plastic trim below the center air vents, above the mobile charging pad area. It can creak when touched.

Totaly agree, My old mk2 rear swing arm bushes are shot and tyres wear to one side. They are really bad and sounds like a rear wheel bearing is going. The offset bolts for adjustment on mine are seized solid. Probably why most places only do a front alignment. I decided to get new swing arms complete with bushes etc and new bolts. Once fitted will get the alignment checked. Main problem will be getting the old ones off. Just hope the subframe passes the MOT

Round town and short motorway journeys I got an average 32 mpg in the first month. 39 on a long run from south coast to Wales so a mix of motorway and small welsh roads.

https://www.motor1.com/photos/559844/retro-cars-with-digital-dashboards/#2415117_oldsmobile-incas-concept 21 slide-show pictures from cars of that era.

10 kKm 10 months, most of official intervals must be split by half

Ok, ask the guy who said you need a new crankshaft bearing something like "How does a worn bearing cause a misfire?" Laugh at whatever nonsense he comes up with. Bad injector(s) or fuel pump seem much more likely, but error codes will go a long way to diagnosing which.

Thanks a lot for your input and explaining the rev hang. If I go to another dealer, I will surely let you know, but I am not relly sure yet that I will go there, since they will most likely just tell me that it is all right. On the other hand, I have a new car, which literally makes me angry every time i ride it, which I don't find all right at all. Well, I will see.

Depends on the space available and angle but the two-hammer method can work, particularly with a second pair of hands on a lever bar if room. Working of a car from the ground outside is not ideal or fun (or sensible for later in your life). Too late now, but in UK we have places that can make real steel springs for low cost that could outlast the car, they can be made to the size and rate you want or to factory, much better than the factory or replacements, I am surprised you don't have such places, as the UK has lost all it's skills but still has a few of these types of places around. Great to have such a report/guide to such work. I think the dampers must have been in a shocking (pun intended) state possible from when you got the car, as said there is loads of travel for a wheel to hang down a pothole. You thinking all old cars are slow and do not drive well is common to what others that do not know think which is why I always suggest where possible to try driving as many many good mechanical/electric examples of the same car before buy so that you know how well they could or should go compared to potential purchases. But life is all about learning and experiences, just that it is less expensive to learn from other people's mistakes, I have about six lifetimes of them for cars old cars alone. 😆

Oh really? I've had my husband check all his emails and absolutely nothing was sent to him. So basically he signed a new car order form and there was no mention of a fee for cancelling and we didn't receive a copy of it or anything else for that matter. We've emailed them tonight once again saying we are still waiting for someone to ring us. I will be going into the dealership tomorrow afternoon with my newborn baby in tow if they keep ghosting us.

@rit Maybe say what engine and gearbox you have, size of a TSI, Manual or Dry or wet clutch DSG. Just because different drivetrains do it different. Then ECO, or ACT,s cylinder deactivation, then Coasting as disengaging from being in gear with a DSG. (Diesels different again.)

Probably works off the seat occupancy sensor too....

My insurance did cover the cost, I just paid £75 excess. I presumed the price on the invoice was what my insurance would be paying and was surprised how expensive it was.

Just checked my policy. The excess for windscreen replacement is £140!

Not in my area, 2G Vodafone is still active (and is planned to be until at least 2030) but 3G Vodafone was turned off last summer - making it impossible to open the Lidl Plus app in-store as there is no 4G coverage yet! And there's no planned date for 5G rollout in my area. Made me very puzzled when I read in IET News last spring that research into 6G has already started, as an IET Member I had a letter published the next month suggesting that instead of spending on 6G research they should be spending on 4G/5G rollout to get rid of the newly created not spots by turning off 3G!

Is it Front Fog Lights. Or are they maybe DRL's / Daytime / Daylight Running Lights?

CJX is EA888 Gen 3. DNU & DNF are EA888 Gen 4. Both DNU & DNF have no MPI (multi point injection) Both of them pair with 7sp DQ381 DSG, and have GPF. While CJX, has both direct injection and mpi, pairs with 6sp DQ250 DSG, and works without GPF.

Don't go Expatman, you can still be part of the forum here and I'm sure I speak for everyone here in saying you're correct, the Yeti was just THE BEST.