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I'm jealous of the satisfaction that you are going to get from this!

£280 is very reasonable

Yes indeed, a Lola T 492 but with a Porsche flat 6 on carbs and 320 bhp in 560 Kg, so a bit sharp. Built the car in 2008/10, all DIY. Lovely club racer.

40is the best for me too. Must remember to take out the entire interior and inflate tyres to 50psi for my next run. Glad you’re enjoying @travo

Had my 2020 Superb 272 hatch for 5 months now, now I'm (sort of) over the initial constant desire to take it for random blasts (average of 27mpg over 3.5k miles) I have been pretty impressed with the mpg on my twice weekly commute on the m3/m25, I'm constantly managing over 50mpg whilst on the motorway, which has blown my mind, although by the time I've got through the current traffic coming onto the A3 and booted it a couple of times it'll be down into the low 40's

Please no spam only post new coding that is not here... if you like the manual give me a like thx OCTAVIA IV CODING tested working coding obdeleven To verify 3 steps unlock SFD, 1 is registration add name ... which was normal, then parking brake must be on, hood open, ignition on... SFD unlock each module in aplication , not only 1 , u need to unlock all... Lane Assist to "Last setting" (asistent jazdného pruhu na "posledné nastavenie" ) EN- driver assistance (module A5) > long coding > Configuration for lane departure warning KI15 > change to "last setting" SK- asistencia vodiča (modul A5) > dlhé kódovanie > Konfigurácia upozornenia na vybočenie z jazdného pruhu KI15 > zmena na "posledné nastavenie" VRS CLUSTER THEME: Control unit 17 - Adaptations - view activation (Zobraziť aktiváciu) - all which are OFF should be ON (Set all views to active) Speed warning: Control unit 17 -long coding-speed warning take off or on G-meter: Control unit 17 - adaption- configuration of displayable contents -set G-Meter -> active Charging pressure ( turbo boost show) (zobrazenie turba): Control unit 17 - adaption- configuration of displayable contents -set charging pressure to active (bost pressure) Engine torque and Engine power: Control unit 17 - adaption- configuration of displayable contents- engine power and torque set active Oil temperature Control unit 17 -long coding-oil temperature display-set active, this function factory set on.. Automat transmission temperature , oil temperature and coolant (water) temperature: Control unit 17 - adaption- configuration of displayable contents- Transmission temperature set active Disable seat belt warning: Control unit 17 -long coding- seat belt warning verison1, version 2 or off- set off to turn off warning Show Volume to be Replenished (zobraziť kolko l dotankovať): Control unit 17 -long coding: volume to be replenished set active or on Laptimer: Control unit 17 -long coding- lapcounter set to active or on, other activation: Control unit 17 - adaption- configuration of displayable contents -set lapcounter-active Control unit 17 - adaption- personalization- display_laptimer to active Staging, Needle Sweep, indicator celebration: Control unit 17 -long coding-Staging set yes Rear DRL Lights (rear daytime running lights) (zadné svetlá ako denné) 1.Module 09 - Electronic control unit 2.Adaptation 3.Daytime running light 4.Tagfahrlicht-Dauerfahrlicht aktiviert zusaetzlich Standlicht: - (Change value to On) CONFIRMED WORKING ADD Enable / Disable daytime running light in menu radio: DRL In lighting menu (Attivazione e disattivazione delle diurne da menù) - Select control unit 09 - Select Adaptation - Select Daytime running lights ( Per gli italiani, Luci Diurne) - Select Tagfahrlicht Aktivierung durch BAP oder Bedienfolge moeglich, Set to Active Lock when car engine runs: Control Unit 09 Adaptation ZV allgemein funk bei klemme15- set active Menu of control door locking view : Menuesteuerung Tuerentriegelung: or in English Menu control door release: -Select Multimedia 5F ecu -Adaption - Vehicle menu operation menu_display_central_locking > not activated ( original is activated and where is off take on)menu_display_central_locking_over_threshold_high > not activated (set activated)

First time starting a project thread, bear with me... Heard about this Roomster not too far from me that might be heading for a scrapyard, and decided to try to acquire it. That went well and it came to my place this last weekend. Early 2012, 1.2 TSI, 5sp manual, 158k miles on the clock. This is it, just after being washed. Paintwork is far from pristine, but that's not something I care much about. I'd looked up the spec via the reg plate before seeing pics of the car, so there were one or two nice surprises when I first saw pics, then the car in real life. Factory build sheet suggested no roof rails, nor trailer hitch. Both were in fact fitted, presumably by supplying dealer since this was bought new by the previous owner. Trailer hitch is the detachable type, with 13 pin electrics connector and adaptor for 7-pin electrics. Super handy! Had to swap out the alternator to get it charging and driveable, battery was also factory original and not well at all following loss of charging. OSF tyre had nasty inner shoulder wear, without anything similar being apparent on the other side, so that needs some investigation promptly. Partner told me the high level brakelight is inop. Nearside mirror adjustment isn't happening. May well be a split outer CV boot on OS too, but hard to be sure as the whole engine is rather oily externally, and everything needs a good clean-up to see where any fluids are escaping from. Everything else seems to work, though the handbrake only slightly! Lots more to say, but for now: New battery fitted last night after the external clean. Interior needs a lot of cleaning up; hoping a local youth may be enticed into helping with that, possibly. Engine sounds rather nice and quiet after two seconds of mild rattle from cold-start. Seems to go just fine, but economy not great on journey home. Quite excited to bring it back to full health. 😁 I shall no doubt have many questions.

This may be repeating something from elsewhere, but I thought it might be worth mentioning in case anyone is in a similar position. I took my wife’s 2021 Octavia IV in for MoT yesterday and the dealer said there was a new software update they needed to do. I said OK to that. The car drove home normally and I parked it by the house. 8pm, the alarm went off. I silenced the alarm with the fob, and got in the car and the dash was flashing like a Christmas tree. Engine would not start. Error messages around ‘put car in P’ alternating with ‘P not available’ and parking brake error. Brake pedal pulsed against my foot when I pressed it, even with engine off. The car basically went mad, so I left it and went indoors. Half an hour later, I went out to check and the car was dead. No dash, no interior lights, no response to key fob. Doors remain unlocked, but rear hatch is locked and can’t be opened. I phoned the dealer this morning, and he tells me that this was the first car they had applied the update to. Immediately they had done it, they got a call from Skoda UK to tell them not to apply the update as it had been found to be faulty. Obviously too late to do anything about it. So we have a dead car, and are waiting for RAC to recover it to the dealer so they can attend to it. Just a heads-up.

Top GearSkoda Karoq Review 2025 | Top GearThe Karoq might be slightly dull, but it's eager to please and will slot seamlessly into your life"We very much like it overall, it's just sometimes a bit tricky to remember exactly why." This and more in their words, not mine.

Like this? https://www.kopacek.com/skoda/superb-iii/superb-iii-original-skoda-emblem-int-version-front https://www.kopacek.com/skoda/superb-iii/superb-iii-original-skoda-emblem-int-version-rear

On the other hand, judging by my partner's interest in the car, it might be her Fabia that I end up in after the dust has settled, so probably best to leave this one as-is for the time being!

Good point, Fabia front seats surely will be drop in fit, I'd think, since the front half basically is a mk2 Fabia.

SE, I think, Lee. Interior is basically intact, but needs a lot of cleaning to get it to a condition I can relax in. It's not 'nasty dirty', just in need of a really thorough, probably all seats out, clean. No bad smells or stains, just lots of dust and general grime. Low priority in my head though, mechanical health far more important to me. One question that does matter to me, does anyone now what spec might have a seat with lumbar support, which was a slightly disappointing absence on the first drive on the way home? Possibly a bit spoilt by the comfort level of the A4's driver's seat.

I don't know what's up with briskoda but it keeps uploading some of my photos upside down. Anyway. New plugs New Air filter (and short ram jobby) Had a go at fixing the fogs Regulator has me tortured. Completely and totally, but I may finally have it back together next day. New Discs and pads, and lh caliper. Took my time painting and cleaning up. Pads were 'ok'cheapish brakefit ones, had good life aside from the caliper sticking. Discs were clearly replaced with the pads, so no lip. Could have reused them but didn't want to risk it considering. Slight improvement. Got the flags back on it, are MG ones apparently. And New plates finally. Not really driven it since just keeping busy at it.

I give up! I'll assume it is a compatible alternator and do those checks.

Plans for tomorrow mainly focus on the oil leak situation, replacing that seal between engine block and oil filter/cooler bracket; then having a good look around each corner at brakes, suspension etc. Saw another handy video just now which confirmed that the alternator can just be moved out of the way a bit, as opposed to being completely extracted out of the engine bay, so most of the oil seal job can be done from above, rather than faffing about with A/C compressor moving, complete removal of alt etc. 🙂 If I get through that I have plenty of other things to look at, but knowing me, I won't. 😁

Me too! I've owned two Roomsters and consider my Roomster Scout the best car I have owned in more than fifty years of motoring.

At this point I need to review everything we've both written and see if I can find anything that suggests that the WAI alt. is LIN-controlled. I will do those voltage checks when time and weather permit. Thanks.

Late 2019 was when the EVO TDI 150PS engine was introduced, perhaps the revised oil spec was introduced for the newer engine specification. From what I've found on the internet the 0w-20 also gives improved fuel economy and better engine wear reduction at lower temperatures so not purely for emissions improvement.

Can you remind me why you think the WAI alt is LIN-controlled, please? It's not leaping off the page on those listings?

272 has the 7 speed DSG I think which will help on the motorway / dual carriageway. I've never bettered 40mpg in my 6 speed 280 on a run.

Reminds me of.....

Because there is no other source for MIB2 maps than VAG, so we have to "play by their rules". Skoda SD cards are available easily off eBay (that's where I purchased both of mine) for less than an equivalent size normal SD card at full price, so it need not cost any more.

I admire your faith. Ask yourself this question, have you ever seen the temperature gauge indicate a steady temperature between 75° and 90° or between 90° and 110°? I bet it has always risen or fallen fairly quickly through these ranges, quickly as in damped but not instantaneously, faster than the engine could actually change through that temperature range.

It's called a CID. It's a technique used to eek out value. You can buy another off eBay when it stops working. Originally they were 16gb but then the map cartography grew so to get all of Europe you need a 32gb card. You use the published zones for the 16gb card. A Google of eBay mib2 standard navigation mapcards will throw them up. Dealers did or do sell them but cheaper off Ebay. You just pop a new card in for Skoda. The CID on it is interchangeable between VAG brands so it doesn't have to be a Skoda card. You can also clone the CID off an existing card onto "gold cards" which have re-writeable CIDs but your disk controller has to be on the motherboard for that... a lap top. Gold cards cost more than an eBay cards and you need special closing software, so not worth it. Alternatively retrofitters sell software to take off the firmware element by hacking it. Cost again... might as well buy a Vag card. Lastly mib2 toolbox again technical, hacks the firmware.... so just invest in a spare 32gb vag card of eBay with a well scored seller. I got three cards. The original 16gb Seat one. 32 gb Skoda and a gold card I cloned for the hell of it to learn the process. Others toy with the toolbox. Just buying a 32gb Vag card off Ebay saves hacking anything. It's the easiest and cheapest solution.

Wow! That seems a lot. Is this the first time after 3 years or after one year? What do you think it is - hopefully not metallic - and how many miles had you done? Looks like I need to motivate myself to do mine now I'm out of warranty. A really useful picture. Thank you for sharing it.

Hi Pete. Just an update. The repair window motor works perfectly and just to let you know PayPal have already sent notification of the £40.00 deposit refund. Many thanks for your help and assistance. Cheers. Bill.

This option helped to activate wifi for android car wirelessly

I know that feeling lol

My 2023 2L TDi superb "officially" take 0W30 oil. However, from my understanding, as long as it is VW504/507 equivalent, either is fine.

I'm not a mot tester but I wouldn't of thought it would fail. The failure is for warning lights of key systems, safety systems (airbags, abs, steering) or engine eml due to emissions implications. In my humble opinion I wouldn't of thought a dash message telling you about the position of your transmission selector is such a warning light. Just like a low coolant message is probably not a failure either.

Use the size of front brake discs that the car left the factory with, unless you want to modify the car. If the Octavia MK4 has front wheel drive and not more than 110kW/150PS, it probaby has the 288x25mm front brake discs. However, it's always best to check the car's build codes to be sure. The Skoda parts catalogue lists 288x25mm, 306x26mm, 312x25mm, and 340x30mm front brakes discs for the Octavia MK4. In a 2021 ADAC brake test, the Brembos had by far the worst wear out of the six brands that were tested. The other brands were ATE, VW, Bosch, Zimmermann, Ridex. ATE won the test. ATE brakes https://www.ate-brakes.com/products/disc-brakes/ate-ceramic-brake-pads/#:~:text=ATE%20Ceramic%20%E2%80%93%20winner%20of%20the%20ADAC%20test&text=Ten%20years%20have%20passed%2C%20but,brands%2C%20including%20one%20OE%20product.

That looks about right. Many thanks! Very much appreciated. I'll get the meter on that over the weekend.

Snapped this on my phone on the way back into the house after cleaning it so not great quality and also a weird composition but thought it looked quite cool when converted to black and white.

@leolito thanks, will wait for next winter

Some more info on this that i've managed to glean from when i collected mine today..... I was chatting to the service guy on the desk who i usually see and have a chat with and he confirmed that their bulletin system does now say that this DSG Software update has been pulled by Skoda UK after 2 days (It was released on the 25th) due to "Technical issues with the update". He confirmed that this would have been the update mine was also due to received so it looks like i've had a lucky escape myself as if the car had been in the day before I too would have had a dead car. With regard to what the OP said regarding his dealership waiting for Skoda UK to authorise a re-install/rollback. The chap I spoke to said that they will be seeing if it can be ascertained what is causing the bug and if it is a quick rewrite and send back out or if a longer investigation is required and therefore a case of having to downgrade the DSG software back to its previous state.... In that instance it will be a case of the car being connected up to the dealerships diagnostic tools whilst the tech boffins at the factory in Czechia access it remotely and carry out the downgrade..... Hence the dealership awaiting the way forward from Skoda UK.

Hi, There should be a wire issue indeed. If the locking motor has a short circuit to + in your passenger door, it can't operate as expected. This may be the cause of your problem. Then, the other code may be a result of the previous one : Regarding the Lane assist system : Check the blinker in your mirror. The lamp may need to be replaced, or there could be some rust causing this short to ground. Considering the Lane Assist deactivates each time you move the blinker stalk, this may be a reason why it doesn't work...

Just a quick update - I finally swapped my badge over a few weeks ago and thought I'd post a picture in case anyone is interested. I'm well chuffed with the end result

Very nice shots, Lee! I'm an aviation fan myself🙂

For those also finding this post at some point in the future, a non functioning rear washer is usually due to - 1) Faulty washer motor/pump (can you hear it?) 2) Blocked nozzle (remove the nozzle, just pull up - does water come out? If so then unblock nozzle with a pin, stick it in some hot water or vinegar, or just replace it) 3) Blocked pipe (this is a bit harder to rectify, as in theory it can be anywhere in the system. It is likely at the end, so do as above, however if still blocked you'll need to get it looked at) It's a very common issue on all of these cars, has been for a while and likely will be for a few years yet.

The twin USB socket got delivered today. I ended up breaking the plastic on the old 12V socket to remove it from the tray. It was probably a 30 minute job in total if you exclude the 2+ hrs I wasted trying to remove the old 12V socket without damaging it 🤣 @JR RS Did you manage to get the plastic nut in behind the new socket to secure it? The one I had was obstructed so wouldn't spin. The hole in the tray isn't a full circle, it has a flat section, which makes the new socket secure enough without the nut as you have to force it in.

There's often more than one possible option of ABS modules with different connectors, so probably best to either post a photo of the connector, or supply VIN or reg so I can look up.

Got to be honest, this all sounds a bit complicated. My 1.2 DSG Yeti was bought new in 2011 and has done 45,00 miles. It, too, gets looked after and driven gently It was serviced at the main dealer during the warranty years but is now looked after by a very local and much trusted small independent. He changes the oil, air filter, spark plugs, pollen filter etc as and when. I don't tell him what to do, he does what's needed. He's fixed the driver's door wiring loom, a door handle mechanism, a water pump, an alarm unit and probably a few other little bits. I trust him implicitly and pay him when he's done the job. It all quite straightforward. I'd like to keep the car for as long as it remains reliable. Can't really see what all the above discussion is about.

You'll be fine to do it now. I've been running PS5 all winter, and it's almost time to pick up some Yoko Adan's for track season!

I used to swap mine round in November and Easter. However it has been known that we have a 'white Easter' with snow. I don't know what the predictions are for this year. I'd imagen it depends on the date. On my current car I use All-seasons, but still swap them around. I've run Cross-Climates and Goodyear 4 seasons. I have always thought the Michelins are a more summer biased tyre. I am not so sure after reading current tyre tests. My dad has claimed in the 1960s he got Frostbite in Scotland at Mid August!

No, just no. Please, no. Halfords are absolutely useless. My girlfriend insisted on Halfords doing hers, and the guy ran the rear cable in the boot seal (so it's pinched when the boot is shut) rather than under the seal or, god forbid, through the wiring grommet/boot. They do not know what they are doing. I honestly wouldn't let them put a dust cap on my wheel. This is not bias, but rather experience (from dropping the wiper arm on a windscreen, cracking it, to some muppet trying to put power through the OBD port on a car with a dead battery, frying something). Your Occy has an airbag in the pillar, and you want that done properly (I.E. routed carefully behind it). I've done quite a few cars, and even went as far on my Octavia to Dremel a small hole in the mirror housing, so there isn't a single cm of cable visible. I promise it isn't that hard! If you'd like, I can spend 15 mins tonight, grab some photos and do you a little step by step of what's needed? The only tools you need are a 50p trim removal tool, some zip ties and a screwdriver. The tools you want to do a proper job are the trim removal tool, some cloth tape, some washers (depending on where you ground it), some electrical tape, Torx bits, etc. Cloth tape is a nice touch as it stops anything rubbing/rattling over time. The goal of a dash cam install is to have something you don't see, hear or think about, until you need it. Hardwiring may sound quite daunting, but if you can replace a fuse and loosen a screw, you're qualified for the job. My Octavia took me a good day or so to do, but that's because I was extremely anal in making it perfect. I recently did a 2024 Ibiza FR and it took about 40 minutes for the front, and about 20 for the rear. You don't need to worry about lane assist - the camera is in the mirror and physically cannot be interfered with. I had the whole mirror/camera housing off when I did mine, and routed the cable behind the camera unit to keep everything tidy. The headliner isn't the most resistant thing, and I'd far rather do it myself, carefully, than have Halfords break it. The only issue you might run into is that you may have DAB interference. I'm 21 and don't remember the last time I used the radio, but YMMV. If you really don't want to do it, you can get companies to install it for you (or even Nextbase IIRC). The 522GW is a good camera. I've tried Amazon ones, Viofo and Nextbase. Currently I use a 622GW, but you only really need a 322GW. I use mine to record track days, so wanted 4K with the extra stabilisation - I don't use the Alexa stuff. I chose Nextbase over Viofo as I can hide the camera completely behind my mirror, whereas the Viofo line are a bit bulkier. The Nextbase app is a bit rubbish, and I've had a wifi card die on my old 322GW, but otherwise I've covered probably 100,000 miles without issue. The Garmin line are also worth a look - I just already had the Nextbase wiring in my car when I upgraded to the 622GW and couldn't be bothered to change it all.

All good now. Diesel drained out of our petrol karoq. Was told it might take 1.5 hours for the Drain Fuel company to get here but came within 20 mins. Took 30mins to drain, he said filled up petrol worth £10.00. We went to the nearest petrol station and filled it up. THANK YOU EVERYONE.

I thought a diesel pump nozzle was too large to fit a petrol filler ?

1.8 Toresen LSD hardtop - nice!

Hello! I have bought myself a 2din head unit for my Fabia Mk1, and have tried a couple 2din cages at this point but none of them seems to fit. The cages I have tried are too wide to fit in the dash. I am wondering what cage did you use during your install?