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I've been watching this all as my daughter recently bought a Citigo. It has no rust at present as far as I can tell but I'm intending to check and fit arch liners. However, I have a fear that it will rust around the fuel filler (they all do) over time and probably already has (it's a 2017 model). Having said that I think it's totally pointless trying to get Skoda to accept responsibility for it given the Ombudsman's ruling and the usual push back from dealers and Skoda. As and when I'll therefore use a local bodyshop for the repair as the hassle and stress of trying to get it done through the warranty on a 9 / 10 year old car simply won't be worth the effort given the likely cost of the repair. It's crap from Skoda for definite but life's too short IMHO.

I've been down the same road. They will throw a number of reasons at you but Skoda's ultimate response will be the warranty doesn't cover seams and edges which is where the rust starts. Unfortunately the ombudsman has now accepted Skoda excuse for not honouring their warranty and doesn't support claims. As you will have found it is a well known issue that could have bean easily solved if Skoda had bothered to spend a fiver on rear wheel arch liners but they decided to go cheap then when the claims started rolling in they panicked and threw out excuses until they found one the ombudsman would accept. Absolutely disgusting from Skoda.

You're welcome @JR RS lol It's untested and unproven obviously, but I'm hoping it may produce a bit more air pressure into the airbox at speed. I can't see any negatives of this mod either. I was thinking of getting 2 more sets so that I could have the air scooped from below in the same way as the kit is intended on the Golf GTI, but I then realised that along with the honeycomb grille I have on which opens up the full front to air flow, I'd have a chance of debris and rain possibly making it down to the air filter. The Kopacek grille can be seen as a performance part as well as an aesthetic part because of how closed up the standard grille is for air flow.

Yes she wasn’t very happy starting! I’ve got some work trips away and I didn’t fancy coming back to the airport car park in the early hours to a flat battery!

Good that you catch it right on time ... 9V at cranking you very pushing it 😉

Figured it out, you have a message. PS If you can’t send a reply (not enough posts) but can see my messages just say here and I’ll bung you an email address by message.

Trying to see how to message you but failing miserably. :-(

Sooooo... a few things... The DPF or EGR are not an issue. I shall say no more than that. It has a new turbo, I am going to check the turbo but its been replaced at some point in the recent past, but agree its worth checking. The car has just ticked over 145k, aside from the engine issues the car is in really good condition, no rust really and its very clean overall.

Hi all . Has anyone swapped the original dial style climate controls to the Monte Carlo ones ? Plugs are similar if not identical and my car does have ac etc . Thank you https://ebay.io/m/TOHgpk One installed in my vehicle https://ebay.io/m/1Cl9w0 one id like to install

How much kilometers/miles has the car done? Did you check the turbo shafts play? Oil gets to the wrong side of turbo and burns off? What is your fuel consumption and does the car regenerate often? If the dpf would be almost full of ash, would it cause the internal engine pressure rise that would cause for example oil getting past the piston rings with too much blow-by? Or leak through from some seal?

Having monitored the battery for a few days, consistent low cranking voltage has lead me to decide to replace the battery. I went for the most reasonably priced with the longest warranty. £140 with 4 years for a Duracell from GSF with free next day delivery. All fitted and coded and faults reset. Date code on the old battery was 2019 so it had done pretty well! Disappointingly the voltage on the new battery is lower than the old one! I would have thought they get shipped fully charged but it would seem not. So the charger is on to give it a bit of a top up. In hindsight I should have charged it on the bench before installing!

Having monitored the battery for a few days, consistent low cranking voltage has lead me to decide to replace the battery. I went for the most reasonably priced with the longest warranty. £140 with 4 years for a Duracell from GSF with free next day delivery. All fitted and coded and faults reset. Date code on the old battery was 2019 so it had done pretty well! Disappointingly the voltage on the new battery is lower than the old one! I would have thought they get shipped fully charged but it would seem not. So the charger is on to give it a bit of a top up. In hindsight I should have charged it on the bench before installing!

Thanks to all for taking the trouble to help. Why oh why can't we go back to a simple key to access and start?

For any stranded wannabe mechanics out there, the cause for vibrations was engine mount the left one near expansion tank. Took me a while to figure out. 😂😀

Not sure what's changed but I think the warning is better now. It comes up when the ignition is on before the car starts, but the trouble with keyless start is it flashed past that stage very quickly. However I think the warning shows better now - we've had it recently in our Karoq, Kamiq and SEAT Ateca. Daughter used to run the Ateca (2018 model) and that did go through a phase of the fob just dying and it always seemed to happen when she got to work. She became a dab hand at popping the lock cover off (there's a hole underneath for the key blade to go in) and getting in (the alarm will go off) and starting the car (which stops the alarm). But since I had the car (18mths) it's told me it needs a new battery - did it a few weeks ago. On the Kamiq that can be opened from the Skoda App. The daughter that drives that keeps a spare battery in the glove box just in case.

A battery lasts as long as a battery lasts. Someone using the car multiple times a day obviously won't get the same use as someone using the car a couple of times a week. There should be a low battery warning on the car's display to prompt a battery change. But given that the Panasonic batteries that are fitted at the factory cost around £1, probably easier to just replace it annually or at whatever point you choose. You can open the back of the fob by withdrawing the emergency key around 50% & using that to push against the battery cover. You need to press a button on the fob after removing the old & before inserting the new. Like most things, harder the first time you try it. 😉 As above, you pry the cover off the door handle to access the manual lock, which the emergency key fits.

Thanks for this. After searching, I see a small rectangular hole underneath the handle. Is that where I insert the probe from the fob? When you say remove the smaller cover, do you mean the cover at the left hand end of the handle? How does it come off? Do we get a warning if the battery is low? Thanks again for helping.

There a lock near the keyless sensor on the handle: You need to remove the smaller cover. Inside the fob, there a small key to open the car. Then the car should start even if the fob battery is dead, as it uses something like a NFC sensor to start which has not to be necessarily powered

Link to download MST2_EU_VW_ZR_P0140T sent in PM

In short I should swap the complete engine from my rustbucket LXi Felda into the LX if I buy it, jo? 😃 Cheers for it, would you know if the exhaust assemblies are different?

Anyone know how long a fob battery lasts before needing replacement? How do I change it? I saw a video on line which seemed awfully fiddly involving a long thin screwdriver and much twisting. Why are these things so complicated? Do we get a warning of impending flat fob battery? I read we can use the emergency key to gain access if locked out. It said to put the emergency key next to the start/stop button and the car will open. How do we do that if we are locked out?. I bought a 2023 Karoq and wonder if I made a mistake, what with the constant updates etc.

The below text is not mine but it will help you: ---------------- To upgrade a 1997 Skoda Felicia 1.3 MPI from the 40 kW (54 hp, engine code 135M) version to the 50 kW (68 hp, engine code 136M) version, the engine blocks are fundamentally identical, but the internal pistons and the cylinder head are different. Because the 40 kW and 50 kW models use the same engine block footprint, you do not need to alter engine mounts or swap the gearbox. However, achieving the extra 10 kW requires addressing the differences between the two factory setups: 1. The Pistons (The Core Difference) • 40 kW (135M): Features pistons with a deep dish/recess in the center. This lowers the compression ratio to roughly 8.5:1 to accommodate lower-octane fuel. • 50 kW (136M): Features flat-top pistons. This increases the compression ratio to approximately 9.7:1, which is the primary source of the extra 10 kW. • What you need to do: To do this properly, you must swap the 40 kW dished pistons for the 50 kW flat-top pistons. 2. The Cylinder Head & Camshaft • While the cylinder heads look identical externally, the 50 kW (136M) head has a slightly altered combustion chamber volume to work with the flat pistons. • The camshaft profiling on the 50 kW version is also slightly optimized for better breathing at higher RPMs. • What you need to do: It is highly recommended to source a complete cylinder head assembly (including the camshaft) from a donor 50 kW (136M) engine rather than mixing 135 parts. 3. Engine Management (ECU) • Both engines use the Siemens Multi-Point Injection (MPI) system, but the fuel maps and ignition timing parameters are configured differently to match the compression ratios. • What you need to do: You will need to swap the ECU for a 50 kW version or get your existing ECU remapped to match the new compression profile. The Reality: Is it worth the teardown? Tearing down the engine block just to replace pistons and liners for a 10 kW gain is a labor-intensive project. If you want to proceed, you have two primary options: Complete Engine Swap (Recommended) : Easiest, fastest, and cheapest. A full 50 kW 1.3 MPI drop-in engine is highly affordable. Requires pulling the whole engine unit. Internal Parts Conversion : Keeps your original engine block/serial number. Requires a full engine teardown, new gaskets, and piston ring installations.

Can I come collect this afternoon (Tues Oct 27)? Richard Mills

Thanks Derek, but apparently the spare wheel tool kit for my car is 6VA093860B rather than 6VA093860A. I have no idea what the difference is but will try asking SKoda customer service, but I know that I might as well ask a brick wall!

I test drove an ex demo 26 plate 265 BHP yesterday - 1100 miles on the clock - and noticed the average mpg over that mileage was 25 !!! but that's probably ( hopefully ) due to Demo drives and no long journeys.