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Not sure which injectors you need but found this on ebay. He may have more than one £36-75 plus three month warranty. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/188720875711?_skw=skoda+2.0+tdi+cr+injectors&itmmeta=01M0PSBKSSNXXA9B374HHDY7NZ&hash=item2bf0a408bf%3Ag%3A7WkAAeSw6QhqbF2E&itmprp=enc%3AAQALAAAA4GfYFPkwiKCW4ZNSs2u11xCYcGQCs9l3X8kE%2ByJzIRgr4wELj29GxGovqjdh44G5e2iEJVYBWS%2BrwFHDXQpA4dEpBP5qDDzvbXpEj8vxo9aoQgaUWNDgcDprRIHg3vm1t56kfobVCBuuxM4A6JzqSu3tIggTt8QBY3ZsAqtTitbYUcgFRoOzIyMd0hwognhxBp0rNKvMYwtT1R%2BIyMXjyj11ZwnQ1XWl8LaBX19EF4eGWckkUBCGJoFVG0LUg6lTBns1vR9WvXU%2BOS4i58w7CjXcgeZyRWzOyC5WGTY6kSAm%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR7C9rtmFaA&LH_ItemCondition=4 Might be a cheaper fix if your thinking of getting rid of car or at least rule out electrics? Alasdair

@ddan1275 The fact that only the spring on one side was replaced already tells the story: The "garage" doesn't understand his job. Suspension parts like springs (and shock absorbers etc) should always be replaced on both sides! The fact that the car is now lower than it should be is another indicator for the poor competence of your "garage". Most likely the new springs are not stiff enough for your Superb. This also leads you to the solution: Go to a proper garage and have them fix your car with quality parts with the correct specifications. You don't have to go OEM, after-market parts from A-grade suppliers (Sachs, ZF etc) are also OK. About you wanting to measure free spring length: That length says absolutely nothing about the spring stiffness, so there is no use in measuring it. In this case your Skoda dealer is right: Just use a set of springs from a well-known brand with the correct color code, and your ride height will be restored. See the attached Word document (sorry, it's in Dutch, but the picture should be clear). The dimension "a" should be 394 ± 10 mm for standard suspension 379 ± 10 mm for sport suspension 414 ± 10 mm for rough road suspension Voorgeschreven waarden achteras.doc

Probably true. Not currently possible with either OBD11 or Carista, so until it is, I'll have to wait.

Thanks mate think this is the issue im having and I've got everything off and just trying to locate the steering lock module. Hopefully get it sorted this week thanks again.

Never had the issue myself….Have you had a look at this post?

Yes I think your right I’ve got a couple places in mind, just need to clarify couple of things with them.

If the autospark is 100% sure wiring is good then you may as well fit two recon injectors. If you dont then I reckon you will have problems selling it or get a lot less than its worth. Hopefully it will cure it and if your still worried about reliability it will be easier to get rid of. Not sure where the best place to get recon injectors from but someone on here may know. Alasdair

Wonder if theres a break further back in wiring loom? Alasdair

There's a setting via the infotainment system which needs to be switched to on. Our car came with it switched off and our salesman told us we didn't have it! Had I not discovered the setting we'd have assumed it wasn't there.

Due to the change in the mirrors, the LED part number has also changed: 5E6949145 5E6949146 This should clarify which mirrors are being installed.

I recommend upgrading to a navigation unit, HW4. You can Patch IT own With the HW2 Bolero unit you have, you can activate Smart Link, but it runs somewhat sluggishly. And you have To Open the Unit for the Patch I have an HW4 Bolero unit at home, fully unlocked and working perfectly. It just needs to be coded to the vehicle. Where are you from?

Wrong Information But you need the correct people and Money

Mib3?

no I think that's my mistake...there IS another short pipe from the 'T' which leads back to the left-hand side of the manifold, god knows what I pulled out of the right-hand nipple, can't recall where it led to. Car seems to work ok though. Isn't there a pipe coming from that area which relates to the brake booster? Apologies I've had my face in the engine bay all week doing the deletes/catchcan and all these pipes start to look the same. Don't want to dish out incorrect information

So jacking up car again tomorrow and having a good look with a new torch I believe mine has two radiators, what’s the purpose of this? Thankfully from what I could see previously, the end tank is leaking on the main radiator (closest to engine), then there’s another radiator, then condenser

@VladicaO remove the undertray and you might see some flaps, if you chose the factory swing-out tow bar it automatically upgrades the cooling on the car. I remember seeing some flaps. I have exactly the same 2025 car as yours. But i don't have any resonance, even with roof bars and a roofbox.

As cars age there is a shift in cost from mainly depreciation to mainly replacement parts and associated labour costs. Luckily the latter is the lower unless you need a major lump like an engine or auto gearbox. So my philosophy in a case like yours is to put in two reconditioned injectors if you have some evidence that that is the most likely cause of the problem. However, on CR engines you may find you will need to replace the other two injectors after a few thousand miles. Probably cheaper than buying a a higher value car that depreciates or has an unknown set of problems waiting to happen.

done successfully

As the title says, travelling from Calais to Prague and back in October. Can anyone offer advice or tips on routes or stops along the way? Driving my 66-reg Superb. It made the trip to Porto and back a year ago without a hitch, so I don't expect any problems. New battery, good tyres, only 33K miles. Thanks.

I have virtual pedal on my Karoq - if can take a while to discover the exact movements needed. Firstly you must have the key on you, stand close to the bumper wave your foot underneath and step quickly back. You must step far enough back and if has to a smooth continuous movement with the foot wave under the bumper. It’s a knack, I did succeed a few times. It’s most useful when carrying things with both hands - which is precisely the time it’s hardest to do - standing on one leg stepping back quickly without over balancing dur to the extra weight of what’s being carried.

For the Superb MK2 2.0TDI 170HP FWD with standard ride height, Kilen list 1K0511115DF rear springs. Perhaps try the equivalent increased ride height rear springs, ie. 1K0511115CR. 1K0511115CR is about 20mm longer than 1K0511115DF...as you might expect from an increased ride height spring. To find out what rear springs the car left the factory with, you can use the website "skoda parts com" and put the car in the online garage using its VIN number. Then when the rear springs are searched for, only the correct ones are shown. Sachs 994336 is sold to replace 1K0511115CR (other choices are available) https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/396315502720

Lovely light just before sunset this evening And a clear sky now

Just noticed it is face-lift model so more likely to have CR engine which is still a reliable engine.

ok guys thought id let you know the fault came back again , it lasted about 2 weeks been messing since then with setting on actuator etc etc had every vac hose off again blah blah blah and the eventually vac tested my new oem n75 (valve which id peviously ruled out as it was 80 quid and not 12 quid on ebay ) and boom it was only letting 15 inches of mercury through at idle when it should be at least 20/22 or preferably more .it must have been just coping until certain conditions were met which i found to be more often than not low rpm in gear just letting the torque pull the car without any throttle input normally when crawling in traffic etc ,the boost should be max at this point but without the correct amount of vacuum it was reading the discrepancy between expected and actual boost on the actuator . i then bought another oem n75 and the car woke up ,boost bact at approx 1200rpm and not 2500 ish where it was when not in limp mode . anyway it was a big learing process(id never done a turbo actuator and set it up before but now can do with my eyes shut lol ) and the car now fixed at last .. i really hope somebody can get something out of the post if the same happens to them and they wont have to go down the same n75 rabbit hole as me,i wouldnt mind but i never bought a cheap one .just goes to show dont trust any parts without testing .. dave .. ps the n75 that was faulty was a meat and doria product from euro car parts which is billed as being equivalent oem .. it now has a pierburg n75 which is oem........

Still ongoing issues so thought I'd put an update in. Took it to a garage to get a professional opinion. They swapped the sensor and then rewired the plug. All was good for a couple of days and then the light came back on and the air temp was reading 140 celsius this time, rather than -40/60 celsius previous. Took it back again and they swapped the sensor out again and took another look at the plug and then once again it was ok for another couple of days before the light came back on. Then the ECU light came on for fuel pressure, turns out the fuel rail came loose and pulled out the injectors apparently so I was peeing fuel all over the road. Managed to get it recovered and taken to the garage and they sorted out the fuel rail and once again replaced the sensor, this time with an original apparently and they were very confident that this time that it was all sorted. Now, once again the light has come back on. I've got to think at this point that the sensors themselves are not the problem but a symptom, something is killing them. I'm going to take it back to the same garage for this final time to see if they can find something other than just swapping out the sensor. My only thought would be that it's electrical and something is blowing the electronics in the sensors. Looking around some people are mentioning it could be a grounding issue or the battery may need to be changed, or disconnected from the car for 24 hours to reset the ECU. I'm kind of at a loss at this point and praying the garage can figure it out. Maybe the code is a red herring.