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So, I find myself in a place where a car I bought was not going to be a project car but there are things that I want to do that make it a bit like a project car. I already have a thread on my engine woes, now they seem to be fixed I will have some pennies to spend on my "not a project" project car. There are some things that I have already done that I have not specifically documented, but I enjoy keeping track of things I do to cars, so here I am. I do most of my own work with help from a friend in his "shed". Already done things are, Head Gasket - What a nightmare Charge air cooler EGR Cooler All associated HG seals and gaskets New Turbo Lowered on Eibach Sportsline Springs Solid Dogbone insert Other engine mounts replaced with new Wheels changed - This was a bit of a random one, the Audi wheels came up in mint condition and were a lot cheaper than getting mine refurbed. Wheels spacers added Rear Windows Tinted Had the bootlid and bumper repaired and repainted as someone had fitted a number plate with wood screws and the bumper had a couple of knocks Fitted the larger and newer headunit Bought the cover to block off the intake to get more air into the air box Removed the snow filter in the airbox cut out the additional holes on the intake pipe to give more air into the airbox. Added a Reiger splitter that I got for £15! Cambelt, water pump and aux belt all replaced Oil pump belt replaced DSG gearbox serviced New discs and pads all round Car is also stage 1 and has had a DSG remaps as well So whats in plan, well as this isnt a project not much.... Suspension refresh - all bushes and links will be replaced / upgraded and new shocks. Chassis stiffening parts High flow filter Turbo baffle replacement TIP replacement Wheel studs Need to detail it at some point been a bit lazy with it as the engines been broken. Sure I will add more to the not a project list as I get on with it!

Car is finally sorted, all new parts fitted now, new centre arm rest, new rear vents, new a pillar covers. Only thing they have broken is the USB in the centre rest, completely removed the wires from the step down unit! Then the unit nor the cig USB unit was working but found that the fuse wasn't there!! Also the wiring and harness for rear camera has been put elsewhere, I think they have had fun haha

Decoding Volkswagen Coolant Families: From G12 to G13Volkswagen has evolved its coolants over the decades. Here’s the lineup every owner needs to know. Classic and Reliable: G12 CoolantThe original long-life red/pink coolant (OAT technology). Nitrate-free, phosphate-free, and silicate-free, G12 was used by the auto manufacturer from the late ’90s to mid-2000s. G12 (original red) G12+ (improved red/pink) G12++ (even longer life) G12 EVO (latest violet-ready evolution) Ideal for the MK4 Golf, the Beetle, and the early Passat. The Modern Eco-Warrior: G13 CoolantIntroduced around 2008, G13 swaps some glycol for glycerin (a veggie-derived byproduct), making it more environmentally friendly while still delivering 150,000-mile protection. Violet or purple color Fully compatible when mixing with G12+, G12++, or G12 EVO Slightly different corrosion package, even better for newer aluminum blocks Recommended for every Volkswagen from model year 2008 onward (Atlas, Tiguan, newer Golf/Jetta, etc.). The Universal Champions: G12+, G12++, and G12 EVOThese are the “safe for almost anything” options. Silicate-free, backward-compatible with old G11/G12, and forward-compatible with G13. Use them to top off almost any Volkswagen vehicle without drama. Built to add long-term rust, frost, and overheating protection. REAL-WORLD EXAMPLE: A correctly matched G12++ or G13 mix prevents radiator rust, resists freeze damage in winter, and helps the cooling system shed excess heat. Source/Copyright: Volkswagen USA That Bright Coolant Warning Light? Don’t Ignore It!When the red thermometer or “coolant low” icon lights up on your dashboard, pull over safely, shut off the engine, and let it cool for at least 30 minutes before popping the hood. Hot, pressurised coolant can cause severe burns. Mixing Coolants and Smart Upgrade TipsYes, G13 plays nicely with G12+, G12++, and G12 EVO in a pinch, but always top off with the exact specification for best results. The following color guide is helpful but isn’t foolproof: G11 – blue (ancient, avoid) G12/G12+ – red or pink G12++/G13 – violet/purple Never gamble with off-brand “fits all” coolants; they often contain silicates or phosphates that attack Volkswagen seals and sensors. Stick to genuine Volkswagen G13, G12++, or G12 EVO.

I have these on my list for my "not a project" car after I have done the bushes and ARBs, had similar on other cars and do seem, to work well.

RacingLine also have some upgrade parts if you still want more stiffness (ooo, err) after doing the 'bushes': https://www.racingline.com/mqb-underbody-brace https://www.racingline.com/mqb-subframe-brace

I don't suppose anyone knows the fuse location/number for the rear cig lighter? Car back from Skoda today with only thing not working or being resolved is my rear USB unit which is wired into the Cig lighter, also the USB in the arm isn't working which takes a feed from this. I have found this when looking at the wires, so will explain one thing, shocking that a main dealer does this! But wanting to prove a fuse is the issue due to them doing this, before I start to have a go at them

This update is not about progress on my Caddy, but instead is about an event I attended. I was not there in the Caddy so the relevance to this thread may seem tenuous, but please bear with me. Earlier this month I attended the Retro-Rides Gathering at Prescott Hillclimb. I was there in my SEAT Ibiza, and was lucky enough to be able to take it up the hill. Wandering around the retro parking I saw these: I would have really liked to have spoken to the owner of this one. The wheels appear to be the same Renault 16” steels which I have on my Caddy, and the paint colour is remarkably similar. I love the facelift front end too. This last one is not my photo, so if the person who took it recognises it and objects then please get in touch and I will remove it. The point I wanted to make is that when I bought my Caddy these Felicia-based pick-ups were mostly unloved, and you never saw them at events. This is clearly changing. There are now increasing numbers of Felica and mk2 Caddy pick-ups which have obviously had money and effort spent on them. I think this is great news, and if anyone reading this is struggling for motivation on their own project, I hope this helps.

Autodoc lists at least three different Stabilus Tailgate Struts for the Superb MK3...as shown below. When purchasing aftermarket parts, it's best to search using the OEM part number...rather than simply relying on a description. Stabilus 301171 Tailgate Strut (Superb MK3 Hatchback without rear wiper) Extension Force 660N Length 546mm Stroke 169mm https://www.autodoc.co.uk/stabilus/9485272 Stabilus 301410 Tailgate Strut (Superb MK3 Hatchback with rear wiper) Extention Force 700N Length 546mm Stroke 169mm https://www.autodoc.co.uk/stabilus/9487445 Stabilus 299976 Tailgate Strut (Superb MK3 Estate) Extension Force 600N Length 598mm Stroke 191mm https://www.autodoc.co.uk/stabilus/9445724

There are a couple of results from the latest trip to the body shop which I neglected to draw attention to in the last update, one of which was a conscious choice while the other was unexpected. I have never liked how the ‘hockey stick’ trims extend across the B-pillar. When I bought this Caddy these trims had been unceremoniously curtailed at their front ends, which caused some problems with water ingress to the load area, but was one of the previous owner’s visual mods which I did not hate. Replacing these trims was an opportunity to do a better job along the same lines, and I had Martlet Autos cut and chamfer the front edges to follow the line of the cab back. In my opinion it looks like they are supposed to be like that, which is a positive sign. The unintended outcome from the work to the rear spring top seats is that the rear ride height is now much higher. I need to get the back end up in the air again to make sure that the springs are seated correctly (there are no untoward noises to suggest otherwise), and if they are then I need to look again at lowering springs. I still have the springs I bought when I rebuilt the rear suspension, so it will be a little effort no cost job to swap them over.

They are great cars and a refresh will make a massive difference, just tightens everything back up, they handle really well generally and I cannot say mine feels anything like yours, mine feels really well connected and predictable and as I say my bushes are not in fantastic condition!

Cheers, I love the car and it's in near mint condition but the handling is making me want to start looking for something else. I'll have a look at getting these bits changed first. Thanks again.

Got Bridgestone tyres on front and the ones on the back are 4 year old Cooper tyres, but do have about 80% tread. They have got some cracking to the outer edges though. I noticed the change to the handling before I changed the tyres, but I think you are right that it won't be helping matters. Cheers for the advice, I suppose it's getting to the age where these things need doing now, despite the mileage.

Question for those who have standard ambient lights (it doesn't matter if 10 or 30 variations): do Your footwells change the color too? In my car, which has ambient light standard (it's a 1.5 Style, equivalent to a SEL), according to the infotainemnt screen footwells change color BUT in reality they keep on staying white! Instead, if anybody replaced with those RGB, can please tell me the part numbers and if I need other parts?

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A couple of days ago, I had a new update for the Shop application. This new update seems to have changed the version number and since then I've not had any new requests for "application updates" so far.... The new shop application version is: 3.15.1-336.321 Previously I had the update repeatedly for: 3.15.1-334.320 Fingers crossed this is the update that fixes this issue.... Gabbo

Good shout thanks Seat Ateca spec

Does yours gave the spring loaded metal/plastic flap inside pipe. On my sons MK1 it looks like there is a plastic insert and flap which narrows pipe so only petrol nozzles fit. Alasdair

Hi did you sort out the problem

Agree - if you want weaker tyres to let go, you want the fronts rather than the rears. I'd put money on the rear ARB if there's a twisting effect. As Occy says, get something a little stiffer and get new rear droplinks too to make sure you cover off those as well.

Thanks.....you were spot on....turns out to be 2022 model on 23 plate

There is Virtual Cockpit, which was a cost option on mine (MY21). Some time later I recall that all models were to get a limited functionality version (Digital Instrument?). I can get the layout you're talking about on mine, perhaps the one you looked at had the regular digital dash. That said I don't know much about post facelift models, but do remember some discussion about the differences between the two dashes.

Make & Model: Skoda Karoq 2.0 TDI - 4x4, manual, SE-L trim level Colour: Blue Mileage: 114,930 - (please note I drive many miles per week, so this will increase). Price: £7750 (negotiable in person) - The car is also listen on AutoTrader if you would like to see more pictures and also a picture with the history of the car. Description: Used car, with some marks outside, like stone - chips, all wheels are touched but not kerb- I think from car washing, everything works as it should, stone chips, small scuffs and scratches, definitely not a perfect car, but one that was vell cared for, with the majority being motorway miles. I am the 2nd owner. The car is currently financed; I can clear the finance in the presence of the new buyer. The V5 logbook is in my name. Road Tax is £200 per year, and I can provide digital service history from purchase to present upon request. Tyres were changed less than 6 months with Continental All Season Tyres. Includes 2 keys, a spare wheel, and all standard equipment. The car has a full tank of AdBlue and currently over 3/4 of a tank of diesel. Condition: Used Service History/Receipts/Recent Service work: 9 Oil changes from the car was produced till present, invoice for cam belt done and also haldex oil changed. Extras: SE-L trim level which is coming with VarioFlex seats, heated front seats, heated steering wheel, rear - camera, front/back parking sensors, navigation system integrated plus Android/Apple Car Play Mods: Extra security added on the car. Shipping: Available upon payment of a non-refundable deposit (distance dependent, to be agreed prior to travel). Collection: Yes from Sheffield Pictures: see below Selling due to upgrading to an electric vehicle for my daily commute.

I am repeatedly getting a prompt to perform the same update (Columbus MY21) on almost every journey. It relates to a 'UI overhaul'. If I press Update the screen clears and I see no further messages. If I press More Info I get the info screen from where I can update, and this path results in a message eventually appearing saying the update is complete and will take effect the next time the car is started. Anyone know how to force an update to stick, or otherwise get around this, it's becoming annoying. Many thanks

Thank you for the reply! It is actually the original tank since I bought the car brand new in 2018. There is no tag "Mit Silicat". Now my Skoda is in 70 000km so was checking to pump out all the G13 from system (had done it when car was 4 year and 35000km). And in the search I found out that G12evo is replacing G13 but to replace the expansion tank in case is silica double-walled type. It does not have any silica bag inside, that I have been inspecting carefully. AI engines says that 6Q0 121 407 / A / B was already used on earlier Fabias, long before the later 5Q0... silicate-reservoir issue, Since there is no problem with the tank I was thinking to keep it if is silica and replace later on a damage or leak.

Yeah, that's my plan to take all the wiring, CCN, and connectors from a higher trim Fabia. I'm going to the junkyard next week. My plan is to basically to expose the CCN, and than start from the A pillars and trace back the wires from the blue 6 pin connector (T6o/T6n I believe), and also take a photo of mine so I'll know If there are extra cables I need from the A pillar, like the 2 connections trough the black cable which you have mentioned.