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Adding to here also as larger number of people with issue. Had the same issue August 2026, ordered new button from skoda parts direct £20 (now asking £40 ?). Dealer wanted £44, so aware of problem and said they had not had to replace whole hand brake only replace button. I had read all posts, so not sure new button would work, but knew to pull control rod out to get ratchet to work. Guess what, yep failed, on a hill in the dark in slow moving traffic Sept 2026. Did not actually see button go when released the hand brake, doing multiple stop and move on, up hill. Reached down to pull brake and felt no button (dont press on pulling). I pulled the control rod out and pulled the handbrake at same time. Wife put hazards on for me and we had to let traffic pass, before trying to move off. Reported as safety issue to central skoda, clearly other manufacturers recalled on similar issue e.g VW T5. Dealer charged £115 investigation fee for known issue, plus £440 (£249 + vat for whole hand brake) to fix, two bits of plastic failing. Skoda parts, which is Skoda, £191, but dealer has to use TPS. Like other gent, needed car fixed quickly. I've raised safety issue with DVSC. All need to do this. Some customers get lucky with new button. But it's an un safe design. We found button and spring in back of car. Dealer said car was unroad worthy...so clearly unsafe. I would have gone small claims, but apparently got to go ombudsmen, they have it sawn up, apparently its dealer not manufacture if wear and tear, but it's a issue with the design in my mind. oh and I've done less that 58k...so less than original warranty distance. Since found The parts catalogues show: Period Handbrake lever Early Mk3 5E0711301B — plastic handle Early leather version → 17 Aug 2015 5E0711301C From 17 Aug 2015 → 5E0711301D Clearly issue with pre Aug 2015 handbrakes. Those that had issue, was your Octavia built pre August 2015. Can any one who had issue post Aug 2015 build post please, so that I can discount it. Mine was registered Jan 2015. But also found skoda technical documents I found a Škoda Technical Service/Training presentation, API 11/2014, covering Octavia III running-gear faults. It has a specific entry: It records: The actual Škoda technical evidenceSymptom: button released and spring fell out Result: handbrake locking mechanism does not work; lever returns to “brake not applied” Cause: locking mechanism with spring damaged and button fell out Repair: replace the handbrake lever Production measure: “Introducing a fixture to fit the locking mechanism at the manufacturer in CW14/2014. So in 2014 Skoda shipped cars with knowledge that the brake button could come off, and did not recall. I suspect maybe CW14 was to handle the leather sleave carefully when installing, as maybe over use/damage could allow spring and pawl to release. Very dangerous. Note I had started parking car on sloping drive this year....

@Framen I have a similar issue on a 2009 Fabia (although my cluster looks different). 99% sure its damp/cold related as it only happens in winter and car runs fine. Also the cluster gives various beeps and lights up like a Christmas tree on the 1st start/drive of the day but later in the afternoon is fine. Never have this issue in summer. Do you have instructions or video link on how to remove the cluster and check the connections? Also, are there places to check/clean for water getting in or behind the cluster. I don't have wet carpets or anything but sometimes it can feel musky/damp in the cabin (and my air con needs re-gassing which isn't helping I guess).

@Johngerard You could use an Octane Booster with 95 Ron E10 bought in the RoI. In the UK the E5 is sold as 97 Ron Minimum or 88 Ron minimum. There has not been 98 Ron Minimum sold in the UK for over a decade.(VW FAQ site has never recognised that as being the case.) Not all E5 in the UK contains Ethanol. It is Regions / Depots & Distribution dependent.

I found one in the notifications list. If you pull down from the top of the screen.

Still no OTA update for me, I wonder if I'm being punished due to previous manual update I have done myself #FOMO

Hi everyone. I bought a skoda octavia tour 2009. And while i was doing some modification and upgrade possibilities, i saw this forum and decided to join.

Its amazing how sensitive some of these engines seem to be when changing from 95 octane to 98 octane apparently cures the problem, mind you, in Spain there are at least 3 different choices of petrol, around here, its practically all E10 (95 octane) and you will have to travel to get E5.

Hi everyone, Just a quick reminder from Adrian Flux for BRISKODA members. We've been a vendor on the forum for a number of years and I've helped many members with their insurance over that time. With such a wide range of Skodas on here, from standard daily drivers through to modified vRS models and project cars, I thought it was worth reminding both new and long-standing members what we can offer. We know that Skoda owners don't always leave their cars completely standard, whether that's a remap, different wheels, suspension upgrades, exhausts or a more involved build. Some of the areas we can help with include: Modified Skodas – remaps, engine upgrades, suspension, wheels, brakes, exhausts and more vRS models, including modified performance models Agreed Value Limited mileage for those who use their car mainly at weekends Laid-up and project vehicles Track Day Cover Specialist and enthusiast insurance Different types of use and additional drivers, depending on your circumstances Whether you've got a standard Fabia, Octavia, Superb, Kodiaq or a modified vRS, we're happy to have a chat and see what we can offer. Get a quoteIf you're looking for insurance for your Skoda, give Adrian Flux a call on: 0800 141 2707 Mention that you're a BRISKODA member when you call to receive up to 15% off your quote. If you're unsure whether we can cover your particular modifications or how you use your car, give us a call and we'll be happy to talk it through. You can also reply to this thread or drop me a DM if you have any questions. Thanks Dan

Just changed our 2014 Mk 3 4x4 Tour de France for a 2023 Mk4 4x4 SE 2.0l diesel (multilink rear suspension). The handling on the old car was great, even at 12 years old, but the new version wallows around, and bottoms out and crashes on the uneven and potholed local roads where the old one didn't and just sailed through them. Really quite disappointed and it seems to be a common complaint, so I am after recommendations - don't want to have it too harsh, or necessarily to lower it, just want it to handle properly and not wallow and crash around! Bilstein B4 seems to be commonly recommended, but seems to be aimed more at OE replacement rather than upgrade, and am I as well also changing springs or other elements as well?

I’ve seen that in Lidl before I’ll try and pick some up asap only problem I have is I need to be doing it very soon ideally before the winter bites. I had a quick look just now my exhaust is in exceptional condition barely any rust maybe it was replaced somewhere along the line so I will only have to coat this and not much removal work on heavy rust. The sub frame and arms however do look pretty rusty so I will take them back and zinc prime. Just a question are the zinc products coloured or clear what does the finish look like.

I still cannot see an induction intake issue causing the symptoms you described in your first post - in my opinion, you need to be looking at what is causing the bad mis-fires when you do get the engine to run, but only by using higher revs. A first move should be to get the coil packs on a test rig.

Hello! My skoda radio is crackling when using CarPlay, but is working fine when connected through BT. I have tried a thousand cables, that's not the issue. I think the issue is with the firmware, I think it needs an update. I have tried to follow steps on other threads and videos, but I don't know where to find the update I need for my version. This is the current version: I hope someone can help me 🙏🏼

I have had a metallic rattle / tinkling / chattering coming from the drivers side / steering column of my Octavia VRs Mk3. In the video it happens when I accelerate but it happens constantly, accelerating from 0, driving over bumps, turning etc. It’s definitely under the drivers dash and coming from inside, the noise is louder in the video so Im guessing it’s coming from somewhere close to the camera. It hasn’t always been there but it started a few months ago and has only gotten worse. Sorry if something like this has already been posted but I couldn’t find anything when doing a search. IMG_9171.mov

Has anybody one here actually bought and installed one of the Chinese “remanufactured” rear differentials that are all over Ebay and, if you have, what’s your experience of it? The prices seem too good to be true, considering it includes the full Haldex unit and I’m wondering what sort of quality they actually are. I know some OEM versions were actually built in a Chinese plant but it’s hard to believe this may be the source of them. All of the ads claim they have sold some but I’ve yet to find actual feedback from one of those sales. Thanks.

I have 10mm Eibach, see how they look on standard DCC setup. And yes, I had to buy the longer bolts, and you should too.

Replace it but not with one from Aliexpress although the part code or the picture look OK. Open the ignition switch and spray some Contact Cleaner (No Oil edition).

Had a problem with my 2025 karoqs infotainment system about 2 months into ownership from new. The car was at the dealers for about a week, apparently the part required was one of only two in the country and needed setting up to my particular car. Sorry, Im no technophobe so cant elaborate on it but its not something you want or expect on a new car. From memory I think the dealership said it would have cost me about £ 1200 if not under warranty.

Forgot to say, there doesn't appear to be a top screw in the small hole. Bottom screw is there and turns.

Most recent one I have used is SIMONIZ Zinc Primer Spray Paint, Weld-Through Metal Primer, but I got it at <£8 per 500ml can, not £11-£13 it seems to be sold for. Having said that, if you wait long enough, you can get several cans of zinc-alu spray from Lidl when they run it as weekly special. By far lowest cost option and good enough for everything except exhaust. For the exhaust, I have one from Wurth that is rated to 400deg C, but you need trade account with Wurth to buy it. Any pure zinc primer that explicitly says it withstands 400degC is good for exhaust, there are some on ebay, there used to be excellent Normfest Galva 97 at ECP, but nowadays stupidly expensive, so best do a search on Internet, just make sure it is rated to 400degC. You could coat cold parts with cellulose lacquer after zincing them up, that extends longevity of zinc coating quite a bit. I have a towbar box mounting plate protected in this manner. However, when the coating is damaged, you would need to sand it down and reaplly zinc / lacquer. For me, it is far simpler to just keep the bare zinc and reapply where needed every couple years. For longest lasting protection, you can put 1 layer of pure zinc and then zinc-alu on top. Zinc-alu is more resistant to wear but does not stop salt spray corrossion anywhere near as well as pure zinc.

Mine is booked in for a Service and MOT next week, service is part of the plan from the dealer, so will see how that goes. Then fingers crossed no issue's I will be fitting the wheel spacers and performance replacement top to the air box etc

@travs so from re-reading your first reply post to my question, did you use standard bolts for the 11mm spacers?

I understand that a Skoda Fabia Mk4 bought new in Israel will have a 2-year warranty and (presumably) that warranty's terms and conditions will be similar to those of the UK warranty that includes this exclusion. Damage caused by industrial pollution, climate, external heat, chemicals or mechanical force. It seems much more likely (to me) that 'fading' of the black trim surrounding the window switches will have resulted from a fault in the trim's plastic material rather than from Israel's climate, but Yogev's Skoda dealership might argue the opposite and not support an under-warranty replacement. Having looked, not too closely, at the plastic trim around my 2024 Fabia's switches, I think the trim+switches should not be too difficult to remove. (That's just based on there being a small slot in the lower edge of the front part of the trim behind the door handle.) Realistically, a new replacement trim will only be available from Skoda and the chances are small of finding a secondhand trim from a smashed-up Fabia Mk4. This link relates to black trim restorers and may be of interest https://www.carmagazine.co.uk/car-advice/maintenance/the-best-black-trim-restorer-to-freshen-up-tired-plastics/ As Evolution3 mentioned earlier, it would be worth Yogev asking a Skoda dealership what the cost of a new trim would be (It would almost certainly need to be ordered). If a new trim is fairly inexpensive (and the 'fading' really annoys Yogev), a replacement could be fitted: or, if the cost is high, Yogev could try a trim restorer - though they can be pricey.

This sounds a million times better that laying underneath the car all day with a grinder. What is the zinc product you use please and where can I buy it. Also is that all you coat it with just zinc nothing after? I’m not really fussed if it looks pretty under there as long as it’s preserved and I don’t have to worry about it. My cills seem solid but those pinch points are my worry as moisture gets in between the layers and eats away but I guess if I can get the flakes off and zinc coat it I’m hoping it wi be ok.

its been suggested that the issue is with the " intake runner flap motor (V157) is mounted on the front‑right side of the lower intake manifold, facing the radiator. It’s a black oval actuator with a 6‑pin connector, sitting low and forward, tucked under the upper plenum easy to miss unless you look down the front of the engine." as far as i can understand it controls the internal intake manifold flap. I have searched for the actuator descibed, but i cant find anything mounted to the lower intake manifold. has anyone done this before with the black ABS plastic manifold, does the lower manifold need to be removed completely & if so are there any instructions available to do that

I bought one of the custom printed chargers that a forum member was making back in 2022. My car had just gone back to the lease company so I’m looking to sell it on if anyone is interested.