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Tinkering with the native monochrome modes on my new(-ish) Nikon Zf - taken in Cam Idwal, Snowdonia

A few from Attenborough nature reserve............

I’ve had them under the car for a while now, but forgot to post. The new summer setup: They are Japan Racing SL01, in 19x8.5 ET 33. They’re flow formed, so quite a bit lighter than the stock Vega’s (14,5kg), weighing in at just under 10kg. So a good 4kg improvement of unsprung weight. Not to mention the looks! 😍

Todays work is underway! Gonna be in pieces for an estimate of 4-5 days with the amount of work going on!

Hey? AS? Why don’t you consider converting it to a 2 door coupe whilst your thinking about fitting a pano roof… 🤩

I'd like to see a measure of those electrode gaps.

Way to go. Mine is 10 years, first Octavia, got it new and i don't see what else i would but now

Sold my mk3 to friends on Tuesday! It had been my best Octavia I'd ever owned! Car 9 on owners register thread. It did object on the day, as the microswitch that opens the boot failed! I picked up a mk4 on Wednesday! It's my 5th Octavia since 1999.

From the Ross-Tech site:- "VCDS-Lite is our low cost solution for older (pre-2006) VW-Audi Group cars that do not require a direct CAN diagnostic connection." As your car is a 2012 year that could be the reason.

Gotcha thanks. Think I'll leave it for now then. I actually thought the update to 1941 might materialise OTA, but nothing so far in the couple of months I've had the car...

Its just the climate control working as it should! you set 20c it warms to 20 and maintains it. if you set it to 25 it will get warm again to get the temp to 25 then maintain it. If you get in and the sun has warmed the car and you set the climate to 22, it will cool to 22. might take some getting used to but its working as it should.

AS? You have balls bigger a superyachts fenders…

Oddly my brother lives on a high part of Cambridgeshire, it is not all flat. Girls oft like the car toastie and i am worried she will get to Cambridge but struggle to get back home unless she leaves with at least half a charged battery and this means she might need to charge most nights. The roads are mostly country lanes with a bit of dual carriageway. My brother is on the Octopus Cosy tariff as his house Heat Pump heated. Can one pe-condition the cabin from and App on cold mornings ?

The cd player didn't falter today & I didn't hear any bongs. I suggest I post here when either occurs next or at the weekend.

Does your mini have a heat pump ? My niece is looking for an EV, 2 or 3 years old, to do 40 mile round trips to college, no home charger, she quite fancies a mini I think but not sure it is best for her. Gets quite cold in Cambridgeshire. Trying not to let my Renault bias surface too much. Would avoid an early LEAF bit not sure what else would be good. Be interesting to see what monthly cost the Dacia Springs will be.

Have you tried the spare key. Try turning the key both ways as I think the manual shows it for a LHD car? Thanks. AG Falco

@lol-lol ambient temp into the teens this afternoon and the MINI is doing over 6 miles a kWh in town heading downhill and by the time climbed back home showing 5.1. That is quite a difference from down near zero Celsius and 2.4 - 3 miles a kWh. Different from when i got it on the 17" wheels and 205 tyres where it was only around 4 miles a kWh indicated. I have my new home tariff i took of 22.03 pence a kWh starting tomorrow and fixed for 15 months. Now with Motability the choice of EV,s with £0.00 - £500 advance payment is very good. Smart #1, Enyaq, BYD Dolphin, Atto, ID3, C4, C4X, Honda E, GWM Ora 3, Peugeot 3008, Jeep Avenger, MG4, Vauxhall Mokka, 208 Cupra Born, Leaf, Zoe , Fiat 500 & 600.

And the charging game changes..... 30 chargers now at Frankley Southbound, let have same at Noth bound please. Half are TESLA version 4 chargers that can be used my non TESLA, price was 59 p per kWh too... (I still like the 22 kW AC should say Zoes only perhaps).

Deposit taken. And it's staying in the Brisky "family" 🙂 Cheers, Steve

It will be nice when they pay back your over payments then or they make the adjustment to your code so you only pay correct amount and they over payment is refunded.

£24 on Amazon I think it is called a NOMAD boot tray

Yes it can use either. For the WLTP that is done on 95 ron. 95 ron can be E5 or E10 and it is not supposed to affect the economy. (but then the Government lies.) Yes the 1.4 TSI can make the use or benefit from a higher octane over the MINIMUM octane they show for Europe / EU.

I think this thread needs more pictures 🤣 I especially liked the one of a bag of nuts, no warning label that it might contain traces of nuts though!

This one from Amazon is perfect for mine.. length is ideal with no drooping wire. 0.3m USB C to MICRO USB, OTG cable, charges Micro USB devices, angled plug, data cable, charging cable, USB 2.0 https://amzn.eu/d/1VpXQDG

Car imported from Germany into Slovenia It's on 140000km.

Battery charged today and seemed to work ok. Car started as you would expect but warning lights all the same. I didn't drive it though so maybe the wheels need to turn to see if a reading is being gathered so keeping everything crossed I haven't got two cars with the same issue. I'll do a voltage test on the battery and then repeat later in the week to see if it is losing power to any great extent sitting in the drive

Here is a pic of the 2 plugs that were removed

As rooted intimated there are two aspects to consider: a) that the 5% (or less) ethanol content is only available in higher (more expensive) octane fuels and that could account for a couple of percent improvement but only IF your car is designed to utilise the higher octane. b) ethanol has a lower calorific value than petrol by volume but the small difference of ethanol content has a minimal effect on consumption assuming the ethanol/petrol mix is not compromised by poor storage. In Australia you can get an E85 ethanol mix but while it has an exceptionally high octane rating the few cars that are adapted to run on it or normal petrol will achieve about 30% poorer consumption on the high ethanol fuel than petrol. Some high performance cars optimised for E85 get great performance from the 105 Octane rated fuel but still use lots of it. Personally I don't think you would notice much difference between the E5 or E10 in your PHEV. What does your manual recommend? Fun fact: diesel, petrol and ethanol have similar calorific values by weight.

Painted all the suspension. Stripped and regreased the rack with genuine grease, fitted track rods. Subframe In New shocks and springs in. Also fitted some air ducts I found on etka. They were cheap and available so bought them Here's how it sits now. Again sits much of the same but will probably settle some more. Should still be a respectable height and with new everything should drive out great. Not done much driving in it but first impressions are good. Want to sort alignment a bit more.

The car itself does not take anywhere near 4L, it just gets wasted and pumped though as part the procedure. The procedure is you hook up a pressure bleeder with a good amount of fluid, mines a 2.5L one but I often have to add a little more at the end. You have both front wheels off and at least 1L bottle on each tubed to the bleed nipple with an 11mm Spanner Ready. Start with both bleed nipples shut. You simply follow what VCDS Says. Mines the ESP MK60EC1 H46 0175 ECU btw, it could be different on others. My old Roomster for example had the ABS 8.0 front H05 0002 and that needed access to all 4 bleed nipples. On VCDS go into Module ABS, Basic Settings and on the drop down list it has Brake Bleeding This will Repeat 10 Times, it tells you what to do on the screen. I may have the sequence muddled a bit but something like : Press and hold brake pedal, you hear the ABS motor kick in and the brake pedal try to push back on you, hold it in place with a firm foot hold (it's a fairly strong push back) Open both front bleed nipples Pump brake pedal 10 times Close both front bleed nipples When you've done that 10 times it say pre-bleed complete. I also recall half way though another message appears but is basically the above repeated 10 times. I then bleed 300ml out of each rear wheel nipple to complete the overall brake bleed task. I did a search on good old YouTube and there are quite a few examples i.e.

I must admit it is strange they don’t sell anything, I have literally no idea what you’re meant to use them for, but I did successfully hook in a baguette on the left hand side hooks 😁

a bit of an update. i have just changed the complete clutch including changing to a single mass flywheel.the old slave was leaking when under pressure . its all done except bleeding it as i need a new pressure bleeder and all the shops are closed today.

I’ve not done the ABS bleed procedure on my Octavia. But I did on my Mondeo ST using forscan, that was just a case of all wheels off start the procedure and it told you what wheel and you just open the bleed nipple,, backs never really did anything as I assume they not connected to the ABS pump,, but when it said fronts forscan made the ABS pump switch on this allowing the fluid to flow through i think anyway 🤣 it made a whirring noise,, had to do the bleed due to front brake pipe wearing through and breaking half whilst driving 🤣

These r the instructions I made & used, based on sources I found.....

There is no requirement to do the DCC recalibration - it will continue to work with no issues. However it is highly beneficial to do it, especially if u want the shocks dampening (compression & rebound) to work well with the springs. It made a huge difference to me. the "science" behind the DCC recalibration..... "calibration is done with all four wheels off the ground, so the DCC module stores the fully extended value of the sensors. The theory is then that once the car is back on the ground the DCC module stores a "center" value. From that point it's able to do its thing based on the position of the level sensors, the accelerometers and your selected mode."

Always what I use on the Yeti. Agreed they are the way to do it. Sometimes I do the ABS Bleed procedure too using VCDS but that no doubt really is unnecessary, but with both front nipples accessible makes little difference other than needing 4L of Fluid.

Right then gents decided to buy some comma DOT4 esp bought 2 litres and flush through just over a litre,, I also bought one of those pump pressure bleeders and I must say this made life a whole lot easier,, did drivers front first just so it was shortest distance for fluid to come out of the reservoir then I just did the other 3 pipes,, all clean and look much nicer. Definitely recommend the pump thing so much quicker

Thanks again for your advice. Much appreciated

Mrs B had a lovely 07 reg 3 cyl Fabia, but it kept ‘losing’ coil packs, the last time it happened was on the M25, when we hadn’t replaced the last spare we usually kept with the car. Called the RAC, whose gizmo diagnosed at least one duff coil, fortunately he had one on his van (must be common, then?). Anyway, he volunteered to follow me until I would leave the M25, to check all was OK. But a few miles on, it failed again. ‘Must be plugs’ he suggested. Fortunately there was a Halfords just off the next junction. With a new set of plugs we never had another coil pack let go. Lesson learnt - but we still p/ex’d the car soon after for a 1.6 diesel Fabia. And entered the world of short journey DPF problems…

2015 Car here mine also as new

Sportline 272 mapped to 380bhp 560nm 106000 miles still beautiful

I’d put £50 on the price of “£22,000” not being realistic, I guarantee it’ll be at a minimum £25k, if not more, by the time production actually starts.

A quick play with a spreadsheet shows about 19p/m for petrol and 14p/m for diesel*. In my experience you can knock a couple of mpg off for DPF so that adds 0.5p/m. The difference is there and you can gain bring the costs down if you can raise the petrol mpg to 40 which brings it to 16.5p/m. These are all based on average fuel prices published by RAC. You may find cheaper fuel in your area. * assuming average mpg of 35 and 50. Fuel prices at 145ppl/153ppl, petrol/diesel.

En anglais sil vous plait.

I understood that GPS time is UTC and not any form of local time. The satellite is broadcasting the time with no knowledge of where in the world it will be received. A device using GPS time will need to apply local knowledge of the time zone and DST settings to display the local time. This knowledge could come from: device settings eg the time zone and DST in the car's infotainmnet system local calculations to determine the GPS position and hence time zone and use of the calendar to determine DST An external system such as a phone signal to supply the time zone and DST information. We will see what happens on Sunday week. It would be interesting to know if the time and time zone change when a car is taken between the UK and France. Mobile phones certainly adjust.

This build is sick, nice to see something unusual! You won't ever kill that thing.

fingers crossed for the save

Are you an electrician? Either way, you certainly are a master at wiring things in - I'm amazed by the amount of time and effort you've spent so far! Well done 😲

But a phase inverted signal looks the same as the original signal after a delay of half a cycle. Ie its the timing of the signal that matters otherwise you could end up with twice the noise. (If the signals are in phase) Lotus played with active noise cancelling back in the late 80's for the road cars. Never made it to production.