Leaderboard

Following onnfrom yesterdays mission... I also had a stuck flap in the HVAC system, it would show a fault in VCDS and make an awful creaking sound when the car would start or when I adjustment the air flow. I turned everything off and sprayed a generous about of SP90 silicone spray down every vent in the car, let it settle, then in turn activated each blower position. I can no confirm, fault.has cleared and no more squeaky vents! I also received my Start/Stop disable cable , fitted this. A bit fiddly to tuck the excess cable away, but done now. Works as expected! AliExpress Start/Stop Disable Cable

Safe to say she is quite healthy, haldex is working perfectly

The great escape. After the rain.

Check they were fitted the correct way as they’re directional pads too

Sticking calipers. They'll need a clean up and regrease

In the early days of keyless entry systems, thieves could recover a signal from the key fob stored within a house and use that to open a vehicle parked outside the house. This new style key fob has a motion sensor within it. If it has not been moved for a period of time it "turns itself off" and will not unlock the car. You can try this feature out as well if you park your car in a garage at your house. Leave the key fob sitting on the roof or hood, go away for a while, then try opening a door using the door handle. The car will stay locked until you pick up the key fob and shake it a bit. When you move one of the keys and if they’re within range of the car they’ll all blink as they sync their encryption codes with the car. This added level of security also contributes to the increased battery usage.

Well after nearly 4 months of ownership, O finally found the source of one of the most annoying rattles. It sound a little plastic bag of nuts and bolts sliding along under the carpet behind the drivers seat. I have pulled bench seat, the bolster, the boot carpet ( estate ) rear driver footwell, lower trim the runs from the front to the back. After all my efforts, it was a broken biro on the rear floor air vents ! Even after checking them with an endoscope, I still missed it.tje first time. After 2½ hours over the past 2 days , I eventually removed it. Using my endoscope with a hook, long clear tube connected to my vacuum cleaner! What an ordeal.

After being pestered by my Daughter for the need to charge a phone in the back seats of the car. I thought I would go OEM and fit the rear USB sockets in the centre console as my model of car didn't have them. Parts needed; I ordered these from www.skoda-parts.com, it took 1 week to deliver the parts from Europe. The only thing I didn't order from Skoda was the actual USB unit, as it worked out too expensive, it was £45 for the usb and extra for the cable. I got this from aliexpress instead as it worked out around £20 with shipping. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000454430275.html?spm=a2g0o.search0302.0.0.48f2d710S9U8kD&algo_pvid=d763b097-fa97-4d9d-84fc-cabfb2587725&algo_expid=d763b097-fa97-4d9d-84fc-cabfb2587725-26&btsid=0b0a555a16212796060048113e0e8c&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_ These are the parts I ordered from Skoda parts. 5E0 863 284 D 9B9 Storage Compartment - Rear Škoda 1 × 21,84 EUR 5E0 863 229 9B9 Cover left Škoda 1 × 0,53 EUR 5E0 863 230 9B9 Cover Right Škoda 1 × 0,53 EUR 5E0 857 346 A 9B9 Cover Škoda 1 × 7,49 EUR 5E0 857 289 F 9B9 Center Tunnel Cover Škoda 1 × 11,09 EUR POST14.00 Shipping 1 × 16,80 EUR Total price incl. shipping and VAT 58,28 EUR The only tools i needed was a Torx tx20 bit and the ratchet to put it in. Small flat screwdriver to help remove the 12v cigarette lighter socket. A plastic trim remover might also help, but never needed one. A lighter socket removal tool would probably help too as I had to press the tabs in quite a bit, to get the socket out. So I first started off in the rear of the car moving the front seat forward to give me more room to work in, this is how it looked originally. First I removed the ashtray, just open it up, and give it a gentle pull towards you, it should unclip nice and easy. There is an area for an LED at the back of the ashtray which i'm guessing is used in some models but not in mine. Next up put your hands in the hole where the ashtray was up towards the rear vents, just give them a gentle push from behind and they will pop out, put these to one side. Next up remove the 4 torx screws shown in the following picture. Then again I just pulled the trim part towards me, you may use you trim removal tool there are two raised parts which clip in near the bottom shown in the picture. Next up round to the front seat, move the seat back as far as you can just to give you more room to work in. The next thing i did was to pull the bottom trim down this just need a gentle pull downwards and it pops out. again just to give a bit more space to work in. (be careful if left in place when sliding the chair forward as it can get caught up). Following that time to remove the cigarette socket, (It may be a good idea to remove the fuse or take the battery wire off as this socket stays live when the car is off and if you slip with the screwdriver may cause a short). There are two small black tabs near the top which need pressing in to allow the cigarette socket to out of the black housing. I had to press them in up to the point I thought I was going to break something I ended up bending the metal slightly but bent it back before I replaced the socket. So maybe the removal tool is the easier option. Next you want to unplug the socket from the wiring, and remove the black plastic ring. The loom you get with the USB plugs, just plug between the cigarette lighter plug and socket. so you can now plug in the loom to the car wiring and pull the red plug and wire down through the hole. and for now out of lower trim that was removed. The black plastic ring can go back over the new plug. And the cigarette socket can be plugged back in. I left it out of the trim for time being until i could test the usb. After this i fed the wire with the red plug for the USB unit back past the inside of the seat. Then moved into the back of the car, moving the seat forward to allow access. This bit was quite fiddly as my hands are quite large, I fed the wire up with my right hand and had my left hand in the hole where the ashtray was as far forward as it could go under the air vent pipe. it took a couple of tries but eventually felt the wire and managed to pull it through. out of the rear trim. You can see in the picture where it is going up into the trim (it looks like it is looped around the chair but it isn't I haven't pulled it taught yet). Then it was time to screw the new trim piece in put it back making sure it clicks in place then using the 4 torx screws that were removed screw them back in. Next up I clicked the USB unit into the small trim piece, it only goes one way and the aliexpress unit was a perfect fit, I could now plug the red plug into the unit and test it worked.! ....It does. So carrying on I routed the wire where I thought it should go, there was a small hook on the left hand side so used that. and clicked the second trim piece into place. the blanking pieces were next they were straight forward and only go in one way. And the vents were next make sure the vent pipe is seated right as it is loose in there and I had moved it when squeezing my hand in there. These just pushed straight back in make sure you hear them click in place. Also the new smaller Ashtray just clicks in the same as before. Following this i tucked the wire up inside the centre console, and clipped the front piece of trim back in place again it just clips in place nothing too awkward. and pushed the black clip and cigarette socket back into place. The last picture looks patchy its because i had just wiped my greasy fingerprints off of it.!! And Voila one happy Daughter can now charge her phone in the back of the car.

I had no idea there was such a thing 👀 i guess I've learned something new... car is braking really well, no juddering, wheels are not getting hot or anything no squeal just this ... it's going to mechanic on Tuesday so hopefully will get sorted... thank you for advice 🙏🏻

Reduced to £1,600 with freshly powder coated wheels as of this week! It now looks the best it has since I've owned it but I can't keep 'em all.

There are two MyŠkoda apps, MyŠkoda Essentials and the new MyŠkoda. My current Superb, registered in November 2019, was deemed to be too old for the new MyŠkoda so it was set up on MyŠkoda Essentials where I benefit from the app’s functionality. However, I now see my Superb’s data has been ported into the new MyŠkoda app outside of my control, and I benefit from some of its functionality. I see that clicking on “Profile” brings up a “Manage cars” field which when clicked brings up an “Add” button. When this button is clicked it brings up a “Add a car” screen where it's possible to enter a car’s VIN which presumably then sets up a profile for the car. The new MyŠkoda app’s notes on Play Store say “When ordering a new vehicle, you will be able to track the production and delivery progress up until the point of handover*.”. The * note says “Track & explore — now available in GB, FR, IE and ES". I mentioned to my dealer that the new MyŠkoda app is misleading when it says “When ordering a new vehicle, you will be able to track the production and delivery progress up until the point of handover.”. The response was you need a VIN for it to work, but surely to be of any use to track from the point of order it would be better to work with the order number? I have no information about where my Superb Mk 4, which was ordered on the same date as yours, 14th March 2024, is situated within the production and delivery process, and without its VIN I cannot attempt to set up its profile in the new MyŠkoda app. I’m deliberately not asking the dealer about progress as I’m evaluating the quality of their communication on new orders. I’m working on the basis that my car will come when it comes.

Yeah sounds like binding causing mild glazing. Pads out, give both (pads and discs) a scrub with brake cleaner, go for a spirited drive. If not too glazed then that should in theory clear it up. These cars have a pad drying feature that adds some pressure to the pads to warm them and keep them dry. I'm not sure if this system is always active or only when wet (wipers going). If this is set to maximum that could explain the issue.

I love that colour

The later 1.4TSi 150PS 4x4 was rated at 1800kg. But in the UK it only came in L&K trim and more importantly for me it was manual only. I would have bought one if they had done it in DSG. But I was forced down the diesel route as I needed auto and to tow 1500kg. Eventually I was struggling to manage the DPF on the diesel so after 4 Yeti's I bought a 1.5TSi DSG Karoq

New haldex pump fitted along with new filter, next day delivery from Haldex repairs very good service. Primed up with vcds and managed to get the full spec 850ml in from empty. Also changed the rear diff oil while I was there and fitted some more racingline plugs for both the Haldex and rear diff with magnetic drains. Glad I can do all this stuff myself god know what it would have cost at a Garage 😀 some pics of newness

The G28 sensors are known to suffer heat related failure and not to leave a code which makes them harder to diagnose. With the symptoms mentioned and especially the rev counter behaviour, it makes it certain for me without doing direct diagnosis such as logging the G28 signal. Also, the G28 is just about the only sensor that will cut an engine instantly if you disconnect it when running.

Quite unlikely to be exactly the same, but quite possibly 'same enough'. Compare visible part number stickers on struts, and coloured paint splodges on springs. If your part numbers or splodges aren't readily visible, send me your VIN and I can look up what your existing part numbers/colours are.

it's not the carlink one but similar. Over 10k sold on ali so presumed it worked. I have just had another play, forgot the bluetooth connection and reconnected and now working. No idea why or how but it is so I'm not too worried how and why. Thanks for your replies

Damn! Those springs keep on breaking eh? 🤣

Possibly some binding on the front brake pads/calliper's? Have you checked front hubs for excess heat after a drive?

I agree, I had a non-res Milltek on a previous car and the drone was so bad I had to add the resonator after a couple of months.

Hi I would go with full system down pipe miltek. With resonator. Don't delete that as it really does drone. I have the full system sounds amazing on a stage 4 estate vrs

Do it there and do it thoroughly. These are my notes for the Midget but you can adapt them for your use and car. Procedure: a) clean the whole system with something like Bars Flush Cooling System Cleaner or Holts Speedflush b) drain the whole system - engine block, heater matrix and radiator, start with engine block drain plug hole c) use a piece of thick wire to clear out the crud that collects at the engine block drain hole at each draining of old coolant, cleaner and when flushing out d) get the radiator and heater matrix out of the car to give them a really good shake at the same time as flushing and reverse flushing [these can be very difficult to fully drain and get all the bits out of, keep turning and shaking to alternately get the residue from the inlet and outlet] flush clean water through each of the three areas until water runs out thoroughly clean reverse flush each of the three areas until water runs out thoroughly clean final flush through each of the three areas until water runs out thoroughly clean e) gently brush clean both sides of the radiator fins f) gently brush clean the heater matrix and if required renew the foam seal around the heater matrix and the heater box foam seal g) siphon out the coolant and clean the inside of the expansion tank – remember after to half fill it with coolant and to replace the pressure cap before refilling the rest of the system h) follow the refill instructions from the Driver’s Handbook to avoid getting air locks or ‘hotspots’ that could cause overheating of the engine. Flushing and reverse-flushing: I’ve found just using an ordinary ½” (15mm) open ended plastic garden hose is ideal for fitting to the heater matrix inlet and outlet and an off cut of the same hose is ideal to use as an outlet for coolant and flush water going into a bucket – that way you can see and inspect the crud and muck that comes out and also capture the waste liquid. You can easily and quickly swap over the position of the hoses on the matrix inlet and outlet for reverse flushing and you don’t need to secure the hoses with clips unless you have particularly high-pressure cold-water mains, if so also don’t turn the tap on too far, you want to clean not damage. If you are particularly worried about electrics getting wet then cover them in cling film (I only bother to do this if I’m cleaning the engine bay and will be fully rinsing the engine bay). For the radiator you might want to use some sort of adaptors or just rags around the garden hoses if the radiator is remaining in the car. For the engine, again depending on where you use as access and drainage points, you might want to use some sort of adaptors or just rags around the garden hoses as hose seals. On each drain and each flush I like to syphon or blow out the residue liquid from the matrix, engine, radiator and bottom metal cross pipe as a very surprising amount of liquid is left in despite your best efforts to drain – I had the radiator out of the car and shook it every way yet there was still some liquid left in it. I blow the water out by just using an off-cut of garden hose and my lungs but don’t overdo it as you could hyperventilate. For syphoning I used a very simple plastic syphon bought off eBay (you can get then for around £4 onwards) which I’ve used for various jobs on the car over the past few years so well worth the investment. After a thorough clean like this if you use the correct coolant mixture and regularly change this coolant when required (usually every 2 years) then future changes should be just drain, flush and refill. Different products have different instructions of use. Wynn's Radiator Flush - https://www.wynns.uk.com/product/radiator-flush/ STP Radiator Flush - https://www.stp.com/uk/product/radiator-flush/ Liqui-Moly Radiator Cleaner - https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/gb/radiator-cleaner-p000197.html#1804 Prestone Max Total Cleaning System Cleaner - https://prestone.com/product/prestone-max-total-cooling-system-cleaner/ Prestone Toatal Cleaning System Cleaner - https://prestone.com/product/prestone-total-cooling-system-cleaner/ Holts Speedflush - https://www.holtsauto.com/holts/products/speedflush/ OEMTOOLS 87009 No Spill Coolant Filling Funnel Kit - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6IVaxY1yXI8

It'a different market place for that sort of thing here a la frog!

New rear springs for my Superb ! The stock ones were broken at the base and the car was kind of lower at the back. Wayyy better now. I think the springs were probably broken because of the winter salt attacking the base but not sure. It cost me 400€ (250 for parts) to replace them, it would have been cheaper if I had done it by myself but I can't lift the rear of the car enough and would have probably struggled with stuck bolts and pulling the wheel arm... New rear springs for my Superb ! The stock ones were broken at the base and the car was kind of lower at the back. Wayyy better now. I think the springs were probably broken because of the winter salt attacking the base but not sure. It cost me 400€ (250 for parts) to replace them, it would have been cheaper if I had done it by myself but I can't lift the rear of the car enough and would have probably struggled with stuck bolts and pulling the wheel arm...

That won't stop it getting stolen and i really wouldn't want my car back if it was stolen. Hopefully they'd wrap themselves a tree and explode.

Some years back I wore through the fabric (some sort of polyester material) on the side of the driver's seat on my then Peugeot. I went to an independent vehicle upholster and it was suprisingly affordable to have both the damaged seat and the passenger seat completely re-upholstered. Although the passenger seat wasn't showing sign of wear I wanted them to match but also took the opportunity to have the areas that had shown wear on the driver's seat finished with leather panels complementing the fabric. I know it wasn't a lot of money because at that time with a family and mortgage etc. I didn't have money to waste on a whim. Might be worth looking for somewhere local you can speak to?

Not gloating, just saying..... My L&K has lived outside on our driveway since 2016 and there has never been any suggestion of water coming in. Carpets are regularly hoovered and remain dry, no damp in the boot well. Granted, the sunroof is generally closed but it is opened on occasions when driving and for its annual lube. But.......don't ask me about a mystery drip in the conservatory!

Just fitted and tested the Bosch Aerotwin What a 'kin difference? 😀 Another set order for Mrs V's car

As you may have seen in the press the US is applying a 102.5 % Ad Valorem customs duty on Chinese cars. The Chinese are protesting, not sure whether they will take to the World Trade Organisation but it sounds like they will put extra tariffs on those large (engined) European and US cars. The EU is reportedly shaping up to put Countervailing duty on Chinese cars as an action against Chinese export subsidies, rather than an Anti Dumping duty as it can be seen that Chinese customs seem to be able to by the same cars at about half the price they are sold in Europe, US so ADD would not work. Not only a West-East Trade War starting on cars put it looks like solar goods ie panels, controllers will be included in raised tariffs and the Chinese might response with throttling minerals, rare earth metals. Quite possibly an upcoming Trade War will damage trade and therefore jobs all over the world and possibly call a worldwide recession or depression and why ? Perhaps just because elections are occurring and candidates want to appear tough ?

First two years are unlimited mileage, then 60k for the third year.

Will do. Thanks a lot

Component protection removal from the glovebox unit by a dealer is not required, unit can be patched, in Plug&Play version

On our VP works every time doing the kick motion ie front to back. One slow kick. if you try left to right it doesn’t trigger.

Crankshaft speed sensor (G28) failure is a common hot engine problem and almost never generates a fault code, being attentive to the rev confer reading during butt clenching failure can be very helpful.

Noticed the haldex was not working, found a fault code stored with 0448 intermittent open circuit fault. Thought I’d check the state of the filter and strainer first as unfortunately not a lot of garages know they have a filter and strainer on the pump too. The filter I don’t think had ever been off the outer plastic fought me the entire way off. The strainer on the pump wasn’t too bad. With the pump removed, the resistance check showed it up as out of spec too low should be 5-8ohms and light tapping on the motor makes it go all over the shop so now new motor on order. waiting to put the new filter in once the pumps here so I can prime it a little. Also waiting for my diff oil to turn up. amazing that the pump was still original

What I'm say, clearly I thought, was that it is fine having the electric trucks but to get anyone switching over to them, apart from those who actually know that they can get back to either their own base or another depot each night to charge, than there needs to be some serious effort put in to develop a national charging infrastructure for trucks.

I just love the way main dealers always claim no knowledge of any negative concern, even well documented ones - and if you push it their go to response is ‘a characteristic of the vehicle, sir’. As for the option to speak to a so called ‘technician’, that option disappeared some 3 decades ago - can’t have anyone in customer facing situation - all face to face contact with disgruntled owners has to be carefully controlled / contained.

Young days yet and not short cold starts in a cold place. The rpm higher is as it has been with TSI,s and catalytic converters since long before GPF,s. Never heard or read yet of anyone with a Skoda since 2018 or any VW model needing a replacement GPF which is a good thing. Let's hope that goes on for many years beyond 6.

Just noticed this thread. I've had my car 4 years now. I potter around like an old man (because I am an old man), and my 2019 car has just over 20K miles on the clock, so I'm doing a tiny 4K miles a year. I haven't had so much as a hint of a GPF issue. I notice the increased RPM on start-up for about a minute, something like 1200rpm that settles down to 800-900rpm. I too was worried about having a GPF, having made a reluctant change from diesel to petrol to avoid the DPF issues. But as it happens, I have not regretted the change to petrol at all. There have been no downsides to it, bar poorer MPG, mitigated by cheaper fuel. The improved smoothness, quietness and ability to rev to 6K without running out of puff at 4.5K, while still providing good low-down torque have been a delight. Really, don't worry about your GPF. Worry about the silica bag in your coolant instead. 😋

Switched from 2016 Superb 1.4 TSI 150 to 2023 Superb 2.0 TSI 280 Including photos of my previous Skoda cars

Agree with @andrehj. Does the window open? It's either a broken wire or crimped. Not the regulator.

In all my time on several forums I have never seen a post about issues with a GPF. I don't think you need to be concerned.

Cheers everyone, my mistake! Am looking at replacement units now. Appreciate your help.

I have the same issues with the sat nav not saving any settings or destinations, and Skoda are well aware of it from my emails with customer service

How easy was the process? Mine went into the Dealer today for a second go at reinstating the Sat Nav data base - to no avail..

Yep. I got an advisory on my springs when I had it serviced last year (61k miles). Corrosion around the base of the springs - a common fault apparently. It gets a service next month so I'm keeping my fingers crossed it hasn't got any worse.

No but it is almost certainly your problem. I could explain further but will leave you to ponder the enigma!