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Don’t blame the misses too much, it’s very common for Skoda discs to do this, some people have had complete failure like what you’ve had too. I do not know where Skoda/vag source their discs from, clearly from a country/business which doesn’t give a damn. If you search on here you’ll see many more posts similar, glad you’re all okay

All is well that ended well. Things were going lovely, warm evening, started with 100% and 109 miles showing. Then it started peeing down with rain but i just slowed down and going down into Glasgow regened loads and through Glasgow so no Wucking furries, loads of range. Then the signs showed M8 Closed ahead and the diversion headed towards Easterhouse and the signs disappeared so i just hung behind an HGV and went near Easterhouse and towards the Showcase and parallel with the M8 that seemed to be flowing. Up past Eurocentral and back onto the M8 with more range than i had coming into Glasgow. That HGV turned off so i set the CC at 65 as the signs came up M8 closed after Livingstone. & it did, and i got behind an HGV and followed this LIDL lorry through the diversions and right towards Edinburgh and past LIDL Broxburn where he went and past the PodPod that would have been 62 pence a kWh. Got to Newbridge BP / MFG after 95 miles which is exactly as the distance is without diversions and with 26% / 29 miles range. 2 MFG chargers would not accept my CC are now i need to get it unblocked. Got the 3rd charger started, 35 minutes, 21 kWh, £16.72 & 93% / 115 miles. Went to airport, left on my Jack Jones, i only had 80 miles to go on a nice road, but i got i a bit of a little joining up with an old Porsche Boxster and i let him go and followed. So 50 miles later when we parted with a flash of lights i had still the 30 miles to go and 40 miles range. I should have just let the VW SUV go but once i knew it was not Officers of the Law, they do not Tailgate you through a 30 & 20 mph limit i just knocked on a bit. I knew i could stop at a Rapid charger for 10 minutes. 35 pence a kWh. (They are up in price in Perthshire, 45 pence AC and 50 pence DC.) Well it was broken and i had 17 miles to go and 16 miles range. So into Green + and 45 mph until downhills and i arrived having passed a charger hub 2 miles away from my destination. (55 pence a kWh) with parked up with 6% and 4 miles range. That was started with 115 miles / 93% and 80 miles later of 'Keeping to the speed limit!' / fun driving and 6% / 4 miles. A bl00dy expensive 180 miles total. On the 3 pin since 4.52 am and just got 63% and 60 miles showing. Predicted 100% @ 18.58 , charging at 22 pence a kWh. *Met the LIDL HGV Driver at BP Newbridge. He had an early New Style Mini Cooper S superchaged back when.) Looking to get an EV & can home charge or at the depot.* ...................... I watched the Video's of the New MINI Cooper S Petrol. Same horrible interior as the NEW MINI Electrics, but the plastic spats around the wheel arches are still on them. (Shiny plastic crap but they can get wrapped in Satin Black.) That is what the Electric MINI will be replaced with if not one of the last of the Cooper S or JCW Clubmans. 2 wd not awd.

The Fixed Oil & Filter regime of 12 months / 9,4000 miles is good enough, and if you are doing the 9,400 (10,000) miles in 8 months then change the oil & filter but if you are not doing that mileage annual will be just fine, I would be using 5w 40 Full Synthetic oil VW502 00 with a 1.2 or 1.4 TSI FIXED Regime & not Long life 0w 30 FS III or 5w 30 FS III VW504 00 / 507 00 even though Long Life is commonly used for fixed or variable service regimes.

I was quoted around £1,200 by two local garages and ended up trading the car in to the garage who changed it and they said it was about £700 for the clutch or £1,100 for clutch and flywheel. Definitely much better options out there than main dealers. Same 2016 Superb 2.0 tdi manual.

Shame. I'd consider a fuel cell EV over a plug in one more but for the current lack of infrastructure for refueling one.

So, a friend offered me his alloys, recently refurbished and with 4 brand new Michelin PS4's for £800... I said yes. Genuine Golf Pretoria's. I bought some ST-DZX 12mm hubcentric spacers for the rear and I really like the look. Many thanks to @vrs'burks for the recommendation! The car feels a bit more sprightly on them, I guess because of the new tyres and because they are a bit lighter than the Extremes. I do also know that they are a bit more fragile than stock however most of the roads I drive are reasonably good.

"Ask me, they should be compulsory on every single vehicle on the road, regardless of its class or type." Over my dead body

They look aftermarket to me, too shiny (could have been painted as well). I wonder where the emblem comes from 🤪 I am afraid they might not fit a Scout, at least the OEM, as you have the extra fender lip. At least, when I was looking into them (the Scout was the closest competitor) I did not manage to find anywhere a successful install. I think mudflaps are a divisible argument, but I am with Graham above on the functionality and practicality of it. I would also mention the added safety factor by minimizing road spray thrown to vehicles come behind you. In a way, is also an accessory for increasing respect to the others on the road, something fairly forgotten nowadays. Ask me, they should be compulsory on every single vehicle on the road, regardless of its class or type. Now true, some vehicles with flaps look better than others ... these two rank among by favorites (and not only in the flaps' department!) Fantastic look, and perfect functionality ... ☺️

Picked the car up yesterday, pleased with the colour!

Not a problem, any more questions just ask!

Just means the camera can still be powered/record whilst the car is unattended. So if a typical motorist hits you in a carpark, and drives off, most camera's will either detect the bump and save a recording of the incident, or be continuously recording. It's usefulness depends on how you use the dashcam I guess, but for me the extra security of catching a numberplate/description if someone damages my car without witnesses, it's worth it.

The 1.6 TDI is notorious for injector problems, however the best advice for ultra low-mileage drivers is DON'T BUY A DIESEL! Don't even buy a turbo petrol, stick with naturally aspirated petrol engines and you'll have next to no reliability problems at all.

I did the dsg oil filter and oil change yesterday. There was just under two litres of oil left in the gearbox! I suspect I lost the bulk of it on my last journey home. (around five miles). Took it for a drive and all seems well. There was a drip or two of oil on my return but I suspect (hope!) that is the residual oil from the leak that I couldn't get to. The sound deadening material on the under tray was saturated but I got out as much of it as I could. Needless to say I'll keep a close eye on it for the next few days. I have attached the latest? dsg service manual. I hope someone finds it useful. Looking at lots of different 'how tos' there seems to be confusion regarding the overflow pipe. According to the attached manual to achieve the correct oil level, if the pipe is beige you unscrew it two turns. When the oil stops running out you tighten it up again. If it's red you don't need to. Mine is red. Here's hoping............ 7-speed-dual-clutch-gearbox-0gc-eng-2020.pdf

HEPU G12, i see no problem with 40% percentage. -25 'C in GR is a ''never going to happen'' especially in an island.

search for info by part code -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/510961-2023-280ps-lk-replaced-2016-220ps-style/page/3/#comment-5854160 another suggestion how to improve sound insulation -> https://www.briskoda.net/forums/topic/481954-lowering-springs-install-on-a-280272-sportline-diy-and-results/#comment-5413309

Might be better to put in the Superb Projects sub-forum? https://www.briskoda.net/forums/forum/209-superb-projects/

Running 98RON and meth spray Ill be estimating about 350 kw's at all four wheels For the English BHP that'll be 560bhp

And bear in mind there are 2 injectors per cylinder.

In the next 3 years there should be OK Hydrogen fueling stations for commercials on trunk routes in Scotland at least from just north of Inverness going south, and Aberdeen south with Aberdeen, Inverness, Dundee, Perth, Kircaldy / Glenrothes, Edinburgh & Glasgow having places and then likely others. Perth might be the biggest or maybe near Harthill or Eurocentral.

Based on that, clear the codes swap coil pack 1 with coil pack 2 and give it a run. If you still get misfire cylinder 1 then swap the coil pack and swap spark plug 1 with spark plug 4. If that doesn't work then its possibly an injector.

I saw a Toyota Mirai this evening. First fuel cell EV I've seen. No idea where the owner fills up though as I've never seen any hydrogen filling stations here but that doesn't mean there aren't any. Quite pretty I thought. https://www.whatcar.com/toyota/mirai/saloon/review/n17273

An update from me ! Replaced the screen digitizer myself , using the YouTube instructions and an eBay UK seller part. I would put my diy skills at about a 6/10 (maybe a 7 on cars!) and it's working a treat ! No dead spots. Definitely worth attempting for £23.

Definitely. I assume the system has not been flushed properly, to do it properly you would need to do it multiple times. With main dealer garages being on bonus schemes stuff like this usually happens cutting corners to achieve bonus.

I’ve just ordered 4 Goodyear Vector Gen 3 All Season tyres. Was surprised to find ASDA are cheapest. Coming in a few days. Less than £500 delivered. As an aside - I was considering re-coating the black 17” winter wheels till I found it would cost at least £350. They’re not really in bad condition so I’ll just clean them and touch up a few bubbles.

One considerable advantage of a DIY raised floor is you can increase the load rating - IIRC, the OEM one has a weight limit of 80Kg.

Air filter is trivially easy to replace, spark plugs a bit more difficult because it can be tricky to extract the coil packs due to “sticktion” of the rubber seals on the plug stem. As mentioned, a coil pulled may be necessary. Be gentle, the plastic noses on the coil packs are not particularly robust. Check how to disconnect the coil pack wires before forcing the connector! The main trick is to push the connector in whilst operating the release tab, then whilst still holding the tab in, pull the connector off. If you don’t initially push in, the tab can be jammed. In terms of diagnosing, I might have said “#1 coil pack duff” but since something on cylinder 3 is also troublesome it is probably not that - double failure unlikely. I have also heard of strange behaviour with dodgy crank or cam position sensors, but try the plugs first.

You have to think how it works. If you are approaching a bend, the radar is reflected off houses, street signs etc. there are lots of things straight ahead of the car, the radar doesn’t know that the road bends before you get to those houses etc. You don’t want it to jam on the brakes every time there is a bend! The system use Doppler, ie the change in frequency of reflected radar signals when there is a speed difference between your car and whatever the radar reflects off. Same concept as speed cameras. So if the radar sees an object that is 50kph speed difference from your car, and you car is doing 50kph, it knows that the reflective object is stationary and probably some road infrastructure, houses etc. It therefore ignores it. Any reflections that have a Doppler/speed difference that is not the same as the speed of your car, are moving. And therefore probably other cars. The system will react appropriately to them. In the case of a reflection which is moving, but then slows down to become stationary, the car realises that this is a vehicle that has come to a stop. So in summary, if vehicles that are travelling ahead and in range of your radar, come to a stop, the ACC will react appropriately and bring your car to a stop. But if you come round a corner and encounter stationary traffic, or come up behind cars that are already stopped, the system will assume that they are fixed objects like houses etc and presume that the road curves before you get to them. So you have to brake yourself. Obviously it is important to understand how the system works! The other thing to bear in mind is that there is a deliberate limit on how hard the system can apply the brakes. This is to avoid a system glitch causing maximum braking which might create a rear end shunt. So sometimes, even when the system is correctly applying the brakes to avoid hitting the slowing vehicle in front, it might be necessary for you to push hard on the brake pedal. There is a ping and a big red symbol to tell you when to do this!

I bought Skoda OEM mudflaps from Kopacek and fitted them myself. Very very easy to do. I don't know of any Skoda models that come factory fitted with mudflaps.

I was very surprised when I first drove the tsi engines. All the smaller ones were amazingly smooth and very quiet also fuel efficient.

Coolant leak sorted and flushed through, filled up and drained pretty much All day, till I got pure water coming out, took forever but I like to be thorough, now have some lovely genuine g12+ pink coolant. Left pressure tester on it for half hour and didn’t drop a fraction so all good. New genuine bottle and newer style black cap too.

@Woohah They can not do it because they have not a Trained & Qualified Technician to work on an Electrified car. Mild, Plug in or BEV, But, it needs doing @ 40,000 miles. By someone that is qualified to do it. THEY NEED TO HAVE SOMEONE ELSE DO IT. ? Were the Spark Plugs not changed at 40,000 miles / 4 years because there was no Technician that could work on an Electrified car / Hybrid? Were the Annual Oil changes the Hybrid requires by the schedule not carried out annually or any other items? So a 1.4 TSI PHEV with a DQ400-e DSG that has not had the Gearbox Oil changed at 45,000 miles is really requiring it being done as 5,000 miles over the shedule. An Owner / Customer is invalidating the Manufacturers Warranty if they had to claim. Any Dealership selling a car should know that the Warranty they have on a car is not valid because of the lack of that DSG service.

Finally nice complementary environment for our new toxic dragon

The consensus seems to the VAG DPF is usually spot on, once you have the correct endgine code. I'll drive on for now, I've a fairly clean run to work and back so never had DPF issues before. I'll just keep an eye on it. You've put my mind to rest about the regular regens though for now 😁

Hello Simon, welcome to the forum. I'd think it can be summed up in one word - very - although my Octavia is the 1.4 version.

why single out big powerful ICE vehicles, this is all new vehicles. Ah lots of other Nanny features being mandated as well. In addition to speed limiters, the new EU regulations include other safety features like autonomous emergency braking, black box technology, emergency stop signals, driver fatigue detection, lane keep assist, built-in breathalysers, and reversing sensors or cameras DOn't get me wrong I like a good gadget as much as the next man but it becomes a Nanny system when it's mandated by law IMHO

Best re-read your warranty, know the T&C,s and go on and get the car you bought fit for purpose. Ie, not faulty. Get them to sort it or to have people that know what they are doing sort out the faults. Their pre sale inspection was not up to much if it came with the leak. Why did you clean it up and wait 8 weeks?

I did it and i love them

Not sure if it can be retro fitted but I opted for it on my 85 Edition, love it.

I believe every single Kodiaq (if not all the Skodas) have a battery management system. Maybe the early models didn`t, not sure. I had my battery changed couple of months ago and the battery sales point had Excide dongle to code the car for a new battery. They coded the car, but it was only half a work. After the coding you have to erase all faults in ECU (couple of dozens at least) or you car will be crippled. Which I did with VCDS. Of course you can do it all by yourself, using OBD11 or VCDS. Some discussion here: https://forum.obdeleven.com/thread/4252/coding-new-battery

@RaysWheels re number 3 on your list, I have a Tuning-Art stainless steel boot bumper protector, and would recommend them (mine isn't in an Octavia) https://www.tuning-art.com/en/bumper-protector/for-skoda/stainless-steel?page=2

If you order from the manufacturer you will pay RRP. The only way you will get a discount is if people stop ordering and they are stuck with unsaleable stock. It did happen in Australia with Mercedes.

Attention: before installing the 8755 software, read here This software has been verified as working on the Swing and Swing Plus Radios present on the Skoda Fabia MK3 (2017-2021). It's better to don't proceed if you don't have problems with Carplay crackling: the only benefit will be this and it is not convenient for the rest. Reading below you will understand better why. The following, in fact, is only aimed at remedying Skoda's and/or authorized centers's inertia in resolving this serious defect with Carplay which is a potential violation of consumer legislation and is not intended to be in any way an official guide. Before you proceed: - in the same SERVICE MODE menu check that the longest string of the installed version begins with MEN2_EU_SKGPx_ because if it is not, it is practically certain that this software is not suitable for your radio - be aware that those who updated had no problems arriving from software versions 8740 and 8742: if you have previous software, we don't know if it will work. Some users have suggested doing gradual updates (not verified if this is correct). If anyone has updated from previous versions please report it here. - be aware that in any case everything is at your own risk: it seems that many users here have not had any problem with the update. But it is a procedure that intervenes in different components of the car and as in all electronic matters something can go wrong. - be aware that the installation will be fully tracked: the radio will memorize the date and time of the installation. An alert will be activated in the 5F control unit (a harmless fault that can remain forever without creating consequences), precisely aimed at notifying the Skoda assistance network at the first service that an update has been made and this has not been confirmed with the official instrumentation. The warranty is clearly potentially compromised, or they may ask you for money to remove the error (even if it takes them very little). Because on the date and time you did the update the car was not in service in any Skoda center. It depends on how and who manages this alert. Below you will find further information on this alert and how it can be removed with the appropriate tools. PROCEDURE You have to: - use an SD card. It also seems to work in a pendrive but for now no user has confirmed it and in any case it is a less stable device. Always format in FAT32. - download the zip, extract the files and place them in the main folder of the SD/Pendrive. So no subfolders: just the various BT folders, etc. and the metainfo2.txt file. - insert the SD/Pendrive into the car, hold down the SETUP button until the SERVICE MODE menu opens, then open "software update / version" and press UPDATE. The system will ask for confirmation, do a few reboots, and finally, when everything is finished, it will want the Volkswagen "diagnosis tester" device to be connected. Here you can solve it by pressing cancel. The alert will be created in the control unit, as I mentioned above. If you don't want problems with Skoda, you can remove the trace in the ECU via the diagnostic socket: search google/youtube for "Checking software version management" and B201A to better understand how to do it. However, in fact: you need a specific device and software, like OBDEleven or others. Or you can do it without paying a software using a simple OBD2 elm327 dongle and apps like Car Scanner, but error removal procedure can be risky if not done with extreme caution. Nothing impossible, but here too, it is right that you know everything. One possibility, however, is that the Skoda technician could pass by instantly, out of haste or by choice. But if there is a problem, even if it was Skoda who tricked us into doing the upgrade ourselves, you can become the guilty party. I say this because in some parts of Europe there are testimonies of how the 8755 software is declared not compatible with some systems on a prudential basis although it absolutely is in reality (I guess they didn't want to make adequate investments on tests to be sure). They often don't care about Carplay crackling even if under warranty, saying: "Keep the car with the problem, Volkswagen doesn't authorize us to work on this, sue us if you want". Like I said: if we filed a class action against VW we would win and we would have money. But little money and legal fees to advance. And it's a problem that's too ridiculous and quick to solve. Here is a link to the file that should not expire: https://ln5.sync.com/dl/317e3e7e0#x48kb45t-c729295p-faxdwai4-und5yx7w password: carplay

Thankyou @torakiki111 and @Tdawber for your help. I now have an updated and skip free Android Auto. I made a few mis-steps along the way, but the magic formula for me was: SD card <16Gb, format to FAT32 and ensure Allocation Unit size is 4096. Unzip the files and put them on the card and ensure the files are in the root (5 folders and the txt file). Insert SD card, long press the Setup button - update and accept the options. (I kept failing at this point but the formatting option above solved it for me) So far, it seems to have fixed all my issues.

Just thought I’d update this thread for anyone following this topic. Car went to the dealership today. The 2nd dealership to investigate the issue with my vehicle. Well the issue still isn’t resolved and they have know idea what is causing it either. They are speculating it maybe down to a control unit. They’ve submitted some sort of tech support request into Skoda.

Real progress Once back together, it was treated to a liberal coating of stonechip

Any thoughts of a wooden floor ended abruptly when I spotted this on eBay. I made the seller an offer, which was accepted sufficiently quickly to indicate it was too generous, and drove the Caddy up to Cambridge to collect it the following weekend. The seller had acquired this for his own Caddy project, but had decided he was unlikely ever to get around to it. The fuel tank came out, and the serious surgery got underway. Unsurprisingly, cutting away the previous dodgy repairs revealed some nasties which warranted remedial action. The replacement bed floor itself needed plenty of work before it was ready to be welded into place.

Hi, had this happen to me recently too, and found an easy way to get the cover off etc - and design that is not exactly true to the ‘Simply Clever’ slogan. Firstly it’s far too easy for luggage to knock this cover up and out of position, with button stuck permanently up. Three things happen inside: 1. the hook (A) that holds the back of the cover down has jumped off its catch 2. the back of the cover rises and the peg (B) has jumped up onto a ledge (C), so it can’t be pushed down again 3. this puts forward pressure on the button, making it stiff. But also edges (D + E) catch on each other, which stops the button going down, either when the seat is clicked back into the upright position, or by being directly pressed. Removing the cover: Release the two long front clips (F) by pulling the seat foam back on the outer side of the cover (G) to see the bottom of the clip (H), and pull it gently outwards with a hooked tool (mine is an old bike spoke) to jump off its step. Repeat on the other side (with headrest removed), and the cover comes off upwards. Preventing it happening again: Before replacing the cover, make two simple design changes. File a chamfer to the bottom of the peg (I) so that it will go past the guide ledge without catching on it. Also, file chamfers onto the edges (D+E) so that they do not catch when the button is pressed down with some forward pressure. (Sorry, forgot to take a photo after filing done). Replacing the cover: Offer the cover into the seat vertically. The peg (B) should go past its guide ledge (C) without catching on it. The two front clips will click on, and the back hook (A) will latch when the back of the cover is pressed down into place. Tuck foam in all round as needed. Done. If luggage knocks the cover up in future, it should just push back again to re-engage the hook (A). Hope this helps someone.

Thanks to Bufesrac and Susuwatari, I had this exact problem and your solutions worked perfectly!

sorry for bumping this old thread but its what brought me here and the info was a bit sparse so i thought i'd add a little detail for prosperity 🙂 so i noticed this same problem when i had the seats down, the little red tab for the seat release was stuck up and the cover partially popped off, neither could be pressed back down. seat could still lock into place and unlock without any looseness. i read the posts here that recommended some grease but if felt more like it was locked out of place/caught on something than sliding poorly. i tried to pry the cover off by hand but it wasnt going anywhere, couldnt see any tabs so i took a screwdriver, stuck it as far down as it would go, hoping it would cross paths with as many tabs as possible (if there were more than one), pried upwards, heard a loud crack went to do the other side but as i pulled the seat up, the tab dropped back into place. wasnt sure if it worked but tried the cover anyway and what do you know, it slotted back in place with no effort at all and the front bit that i pried up clicked back into place. i was going to take it all apart just to see what was getting stuck but it was over and done so quickly (literally 2min with half that trying to use my fingers) i figured id just take the win 😃 from the way the cover was up and couldnt be pushed down, it seems if the seat is down and the cover is knocked off (wouldnt be uncommon if youre sliding in something with a flat bottom and decent weight), part of the mech for the tab gets dislodged and it stays up. so the key is to lift the cover while the seat is upright and let whatever its stuck on to be freed up. hope that helps someone 🙂