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Carpet in the cabin, but boot liner with the rubber side up.

Location location location but surely Rubber during winter, worst of weather etc.

don't upset her she's a 1.8t and we know they can be sensitive

Found myself having a look out of the window at work the other day so whipped the phone out and took a quick picture of the car. It’d have been rude not to. 😁

I am easily confused, and this has me puzzed. Am I right in thinking that on a DSG car, in coasting mode the engine is still running? If so it is using fuel. If however the car were in gear, taking your foot off the throttle would cut the fuel supply to the engine, therefore using no fuel at all. So if you are on a motorway doing 70mph and there is a jam ahead, in the first case you would be using fuel to idle the engine, then applying brakes to stop the car. If however it stayed in gear you would use no fuel, then apply the brakes from a lower speed resulting in less brake wear. Doesn't really add up to me.

Sharing a few pics of my black pearl MKIV Skoda Octavia VRS external and internal with moonroof open.

Thanks for everyone's help. Can confirm that 127cm bars fit without issue.

Absolutely, I’m frankly bored of seeing umpteen posts about disc corrosion when actually 99% of it is normal vag characteristics. Literally seconds after you drive the car again and use the brakes the so called “rust” has gone. It’s normal. I’ve had VAG cars for more years than I can be bothered to remember and not once have I ever faced near death because of a bit of surface rust. Chill, Jesus😂

I had our OE battery replaced when it finally died in October with a RAC branded Varta Silver Dynamic AGM 570 901 076 battery. Very slightly more powerful but at least it should be fine for the next few years.

Actually AS could remove the front of your car, extend it by 25cm and then install a 289 Windsor V8. He’s already stated he’s installed a number of front sensors; he’s your “goto” man.

21 months and 98000km later. 😅

I wanted to thank all you Briskodians for your posts. As a new owner (less than a month) I am trying to get to grips with all the Superbisms and Skodaisms on my new Mk2 and reading your posts... old and new.... has been so helpful. Things that I have learnt so far from you include: That my Columbus is called a Rns510 and how to load firmware, and then update maps to v17, which I have done successfully. That if I hold down the lock button on my key for 2 seconds it folds in wing mirrors....and as this didn't work on my Superb initially, I also learnt how to reset this by (bizarrely) opening and closing the windows. Where to buy a car boot bumper protector for my Mk2 that fitted. Even the posts complaining about niggles with the Superb have been really enlightening and I have learnt loads not only about my car but also the expectations of other owners... I think as this is without a doubt the nicest car I have ever owned I am more easily pleased than many of you. 😍 I am slowly working my way through the owners manual as well... But your posts are much more interesting to read! So please reply if you can, with any other secrets that a newbie like me might not know. Thanks again Zea

Hi again, I can confirm that with WiFi off and e-sim on I can still connect to the car via the App and refresh the data, what I cannot do is connect my Phone via wireless Android Auto (Should I so wish) this seems to require the WiFi to be on. Interestingly, with Wifi on (And e-sim off) I can still access the car via the app, refresh data and 'Honk and Flash' even when parked up in the middle of nowhere with fields all around me! The car is off to Mitchells Skoda next week for a service, whilst there I will ask some pertinent questions and ask for updates to be applied. Cheers Alan

I voted carpet - but if I was going to be wearing muddy gumboots a lot, it would be be one for the rubber fetish 😁.

Now time for you to post your cars thread for the Project.

Good point - but now it is time to proceed to the voting booth and make your mark for one or the other on the Skoda-green coloured ballot paper! See link.

Can I vote both... I've got rubber in the Kodiaq and carpet in the MX5 and Swift...

I have a spare loom for sale if youre interested Its for a kodiaq so slightly longer, but exactly the same, just means wires need tucking somewhere.

Interesting, mine is a DCC vehicle and I have the plastic protectors, albeit different looking on the rear arms but the short / sump visible engine one. So when you say it's optional on DCC cars, do you mean it would have to be "factory" ordered and only if DCC equipped??

New battery fitted, dash predictably lit up like a Christmas Tree. Took it for a drive and most codes disappeared as the ABS sensor got read. The engine management stayed on so I cleared that again and took another run round the block and it hasn't came back. Hopefully that will be that but it cam back the last time after a few runs so not out the woods yet. No doubt the battery was not performing though as starting is much easier so it was a worthwhile task regardless and I hope that bugger Damian appreciates another £100 odd quid being invested into it.

@RichardStandard10 I'd agree with @nta16 procedures, with the note that I have never used any of the cited products.

Virtually, everywhere- even on flat surfaces (!!) rust bubbles starts to appear. Looks like in factory they're painting dirty or rusty metal- and rust starts from "under-the-paint". Based on my car and what I saw in forums and on streets: for liftback take a look at rear wing-bumper edge. 99% that rust is present. Even after 5 years. Tolerances are too tight, parking backwards on curb pulls bumper <-> by stiff mudflaps (if installed) - and bumper tears paint off from wing's edge- and here we go... But for Combi is not typical place- bumper is different. I can imagine that after repair it's wise to glue transparent tape around this edge (and only then install bumper)- to "separate" bumper from wing. Trunk lid horizontal edge (where license plate lights sits), rear wheel arches. For some Octies saw a lot of rust around door handles. Underbody? Even after 7 salty Latvian winters all looks ok. Ok, exhaust clamp nuts/bolts are totally rusted.

Thank you i tried to get Lloyds and still chat to Mark (love his new toy)

I dislike this coasting. If I pick the eco mode it does this. I never use the sport mode either. Mine is left on the normal mode all the time. I did play around with these modes in the first few months of owning the car. I get the best mpg, according to the trip computer, in normal mode not using the cruise and leaving the gearbox to its own devices. Occasionally I will use the manual via the flappy paddles, but that is rare. Why buy an auto to change gears yourself? I have a 22 year old golf gttdi for changing gears!

I've had a few updates this year that have been delivered OTA. They are mostly updates to apps, and fairly insignificant. In the description text I have noticed recently on these updates they do now explicitly state that the version number of the infotainment will not change. So for these smaller updates, it's expected. As for it being prep for the bigger update, I somehow doubt it - even though it would be good if it was.

Rich, assuming you have actually driven the car a distance to get everything operating as they should and that the thermostat is opening and you have no air locks and checked the heater was working fully, car runs at usual temperature on reasonable length drive. Assuming all that best way to clean the cooling/heating system is to clean the heater matrix, engine block and radiator inside and out, same for any hoses you can. If possible it can be better to remove the rad and heater matrix if reasonably possible (and any pipes and hoses). The exact details I don't know on your car but small drain holes are nor best to drain from when things need cleaning disconnecting bigger hoses with get more debris out. Existing drain taps or drain holes out to clear them may also be necessary. The following is for other British "classics" but you can get the idea and adapt as required. - More thorough system clean and overall - before starting consider if the water pump and heater fan motor need replacing and (if not already fitted) whether to install an electric radiator cooling fan as this would dovetail in with the work below. You may want to check or change the hoses, thermostat, heater tap, fan belt and pressure cap. Procedure: a) clean the whole system with something like Holts Speedflush b) drain the whole system - engine block, heater matrix and radiator c) use a piece of thick wire to clear out the crud that collects at the engine block drain hole at each draining of old coolant, cleaner and when flushing out d) get the radiator and heater matrix out of the car to give them a good shake at the same time as flushing and reverse flushing [or do three points below with items connected together, flush, back-flush, flush again as below] flush clean water through each of the three areas until water runs out thoroughly clean reverse flush each of the three areas until water runs out thoroughly clean final flush through each of the three areas until water runs out thoroughly clean e) gently brush clean both sides of the radiator fins f) gently brush clean the heater matrix and if required renew the foam seal around the heater matrix and the heater box foam seal g) siphon out the coolant and clean the inside of the expansion tank – remember after to half fill it with coolant and to replace the pressure cap before refilling the rest of the system h) follow the refill instructions from the Driver’s Handbook to avoid getting air locks or ‘hotspots’ that could cause overheating of the engine. Flushing and reverse-flushing - I’ve found just using an ordinary ½” (15mm) open ended plastic garden hose is ideal for fitting to the heater matrix inlet and outlet and an off cut of the same hose is ideal to use as an outlet for coolant and flush water going into a bucket – that way you can see and inspect the crud and muck that comes out and also capture the waste liquid. You can easily and quickly swap over the position of the hoses on the matrix inlet and outlet for reverse flushing and you don’t need to secure the hoses with clips unless you have particularly high-pressure cold-water mains, if so also don’t turn the tap on too far, you want to clean not damage. If you are particularly worried about electrics getting wet then cover them in cling film (I only bother to do this if I’m cleaning the engine bay and will be fully rinsing the engine bay). For the radiator you might want to use some sort of adaptors or just rags around the garden hoses if the radiator is remaining in the car. For the engine, again depending on where you use as access and drainage points, you might want to use some sort of adaptors or just rags around the garden hoses as hose seals. On each drain and each flush I like to syphon or blow out the residue liquid from the matrix, engine, radiator and bottom metal cross pipe as a very surprising amount of liquid is left in despite your best efforts to drain – I had the radiator out of the car and shook it every way yet there was still some liquid left in it. I blow the water out by just using an off-cut of garden hose and my lungs but don’t overdo it as you could hyperventilate. For syphoning I used a very simple plastic syphon bought off eBay (you can get then for around £4 onwards) which I’ve used for various jobs on the car over the past few years so well worth the investment. After a thorough clean like this if you use the correct coolant mixture and regularly change this coolant when required (usually every 2 years) then future changes should be just drain, flush and refill. Some different products (no order) - Wynn's Radiator Flush - https://www.wynns.uk.com/product/radiator-flush/ STP Radiator Flush - https://www.stp.com/uk/product/radiator-flush/ Liqui-Moly Radiator Cleaner - https://www.liqui-moly.com/en/gb/radiator-cleaner-p000197.html#1804 Prestone Max Total Cleaning System Cleaner - https://prestone.com/product/prestone-max-total-cooling-system-cleaner/ Prestone Toatal Cleaning System Cleaner - https://prestone.com/product/prestone-total-cooling-system-cleaner/ Holts Speedflush - https://www.holtsauto.com/holts/products/speedflush/ OEMTOOLS 87009 No Spill Coolant Filling Funnel Kit - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6IVaxY1yXI8 HTH.

My friend just replaced pump/belt/rollers/front seal in local garage. Known for a long time and reliable mechanic done this. 125 EUR for job. Mk3 Octy 1.6TDI.

He is also putting a new lever unit in too. 250 is labour and for the emergency call out. He will prepare it all at his workshop and fit straight away. It’s less than I expected if I am honest and living in central London, it’s expensive for anything. I need the car for work so stuck in a hard place for a fix that I need to make money. Thanks for all your help as well, been a great reassurance. If only I was a mechanic, I’d be rich!

Thanks for your support and very prompt reply. I sussed it out when I realised that the glove box cover just dropped quickly instead of slowly opening. I had changed the cabin filter a few days ago, and obviously not realised that this part had fallen out. Changing cabin filter? watch out that this part does not fall out. Thanks again.👍🤠

No, the RAC guy took them off again.

I am sure at some time, some talented fella recommended a saving of xxx vs. a potential "air flow disturbance" and the board chose to save some pennies. And they all were happy, except whoever pays, that is the customer, of course. As for the pedal feel, I'd rather try fist a piggyback engine Stage I and then see how it moves. I was thinking to let pass a few more thousand k's to get a feel of the car "original", and then go spending in hooligan mode .... Torn between Racechip and DTE (DTUK for you guys in the Island), but I need to start reading dedicated literature on the subject ... Honestly, the 19s are very fine for smooth roads ... like the ones in upper/western Europe. Get to southern and eastern latitudes and ride becomes choppy and harsh, not only for a Superb, but for most vehicles. Here very large rims are only for true fans, maniacs or people with look/attitude deficiencies 🤪 Last not I forgot to mention: return journey from Italy I made +38MPG over 1500km with lawful driving. Sign that IS possible to have both power and economy 😆

Steering wheel is leather. There’s the Alcantara strip running right across your dashboard with the red stitching around it. Not tried it myself but others have recommended stuff like this in various other places.

OK. So maybe no difference if always checked the same way. But after 15 minutes is not a 'few minutes' as said in the owners manual, & warm is not 'At Operating Temperature' or Normal Operating Temperature. So know there is enough in when cold, engine not started, then again when it has been run to operating temperature using the dame time. But stopping the car and opening the bonnet and checking after less than 5 minutes seems simple enough. Like a Technician should check after doing a service and carrying out a road test. If they ever do road tests and not just take the car around to the pick up bay, or where it gets Wash (Scratch) & vacuum.

Skoda superb mk2 fl 3T5. 2014 2.0tdi 140hp. 6 speed manual. Engine CFFB gearbox NFU. Best Regards

I thought i'd share my 'learnings' after having trouble with the tailgate latch in my 2010 Octavia Scout MkII. The tailgate latch or the button above the number plate started malfunctioning about a year ago, making whirring noises but failing to release the tailgate. We have a dog who is transported to local areas for walks and I am constantly using the boot for various reasons, so a non-functioning latch was a true PITA. A YouTube vid showed someone spraying CRC/WD40 into the latch mech so i tried this - unsuccessfully, but strangely enough (as intermittent elec faults can be) it suddenly decided it would cooperate. In the meantime I'd purchased a replacement latch that sat idle until it began to refuse admission again about a month ago. So ... I fitted the 'new' latch - no change, same prob. To prove i didn't have TWO latches with the same prob I fitted a latch from a friend's Mk1 that I knew was working - no go, same whirring, then a pause, then another short whir ... but no latch release. A visit to my ever-helpful auto elec where he identified that the whirring noise was coming from 'elsewhere' - very difficult to pinpoint the location as the sound resonates in the entire tailgate. Long story short, I discovered that there's a 'hidden' mechanism under the boot ledge cover, an electric servo motor that operates a lever, which then operates the latch release. you would NEVER know this from looking at the latch - it has an electrical connector that makes you think it's the entire release mechanism, but the connector is obviously only to a sensor that tells the CPU when the boot latch is open or closed. My symptoms were an initial brief whirring sound , a short (maybe 1 sec) delay and then another short whirring sound from the latch area, but a failure to release the latch. Once I had the servo assembly out (two Torx T45 bolts and one elec connector) I could use a remote battery in the workshop to test the mechanism. Mine was covered in hair from previously mentioned dog. A spray with CRC/WD40 and a good external clean by applying current to the unit to hold it 'open' and it seemed to function normally. I refitted it to the car and adjusted the latch position and it's been fine ever since. If someone had posted this info somewhere it would have saved me a lot of grief (and AUD$120 for the part I didn't need) so hopefully this will help someone in the future who recognises the symptoms in their own car. Pics attached.

Simpsons Skoda, No longer a main Skoda dealer. Just an Authorised repairer Original Owners have sold the business to Desira Group

That is the sensible thing. But while it was hot / at normal operating temperature was the time to check as well.

Shouldn't be 245 without VAQ. Don't you have driving modes to choose individual and see there presence of front differential lock?

Based on information they gave me that all services had been done in time and at the dealer. Its hard to know if thats the truth, because car is imported from Germany. And next service is at 140k Km or october.

its so lovely to still see some of these being kept in such good condition. when i joined back in 2012, with my first mk1 (1.9 ALH Diesel) i loved what the crew then were doing with their vrs's. Billy's black one right up until he gave up and scrapped it was mint 😞 Mark's (Bowders1) was stunning and rapid. and of course the lowest milage mk1 in existence - Lloyd55's corrida red that he couldnt stop doing things to, other than drive feckin thing there was a couple of others too at least one banana yellow that was a sleeping demon. keep it up @dubDEAN she's looking gorgeous

If the IPhone WiFi is off then CarPlay cannot link wirelessly to the phone. I was sitting in the services at Leigh Delemere this lunchtime and couldn’t access my email on my IPhone which was showing that it was using WiFi and not 5G. Disconnected the WiFi from MySkoda 9345, 5G restored and CarPlay stopped. Reconnecting WiFi to MySkoda9345 and CarPlay working. WiFi network MySkoda9345 is the internal car WiFi without a working sim you would not be able to have a hotspot for other devices without SIM cards. Of course if you have an iPhone with a SIM card it can act as a WiFi hotspot for other devices.

I guess I should quickly introduce myself, many years ago I once owned a Superb Elegance 2.0TDI, I think it was about 2010 but I've gone & got me another one, and "Yes, I still got my original briskoda Login" This time it's a 2023MY 280 L&K, its amazing how much more refined this one is, it's nearly run-in now but I'm really enjoying this car and I have already done few VCDS tweaks too. Not digging the wooden throttle response but I've not been flooring it yet, so time will tell if I need a pedal box and "NO" I don't really like the alloys but they can be changed easily enough. I do have a question about the underneath of the car though. When I popped the wheels off to fit a set of mudflaps I discovered there is no undertray directly below the sump, there is a short under-tray under the rads that includes a couple of air scoops on to the gearbox. I cannot see any fixings for one "if it was missing" so it looks like it's not meant to have a "full" one. The dealer could not confirm and without another 280 that I can stick my head under it's hard to confirm. The parts guy could only find what I already found on FleaBay and that is a full length under-tray part, but I don't see how that'll fit because I already have the front part of it. So, can I please ask you guys that actually have a 280 to stick your head under. I have included a picture of my car, I hope it helps? Thanks in advance

River glaven at night

I can't agree with you on your first point, they seem poorer quality than I'd expect on a car, new or otherwise. Yes many owners who visit dealers for servicing or wherever don't always get a brake service each year, it's probably not on the service schedule to actually strip/clean and thoroughly check annually anyway. I've asked for dealers to actually remove the wheels and do the above in the past, not carried out, just a visual check. I don't use dealers anymore, got a local go to garage for stuff I can't handle, brakes I can replace myself ATM, they get a proper check annually.

Are you going to rechristen her 'Billy'?

ApertureS is easily qualified enough to fit front sensors, with more of an interest than you’ll get from most people to do it properly and neatly to a high standard.

completely disagree, I have 17" wheels on mine and I don't think they look like toy wheels

I didn't want to remove the bag in situ, just in case it split, so I just made sure that the engine was cold, sucked out the fluid with a turkey baster and put it into another container, released the expansion tank, disconnected the connector, released the upper hose and then released the lower hose with a pair of pliers. Removed the silicon bag with a pair of long nose pliers and then refitted in reverse order, using the fluid I removed during removal. It saved all the hassle of having to top up an empty system.

It needed oil then. So did you check when it came back after the last service that the level was correct or when did you last check,? Some oil use can happen, but unless you know how quickly it happened then topping up after getting a warning by light or message is a good thing. Check regularly.

Your module supports both channels but the harness you get has connection only for one channel - you must add two wires between the black module bplug and green radio plug.