Leaderboard

Can confirm it's NOT an MOT fail, car passed today with no advisories and still with front assist sensor impaired message. 😁 Taking it tomorrow to an ADAS specialist to get sensor looked at, then it's for sale!

To make the above process sound even easier, you only need to clip open the mounting clamps for the 2 pipes so that they can be moved out of the way. So getting that top cover off is really easy - oh and a couple of spring clips need easing off.

Hey everyone! Greetings from cold and snowy Lithuania ❄️ I’ve just joined the forum as I own an Octavia mk3, which I bought about a year ago. It’s been a great family car and I’ve been very happy with it so far. However, I’ve recently come across a couple of funny issues (or rather little puzzles), and I’m hoping to get some advice. I’ll post the details in the appropriate sections. Looking forward to learning from you all! 🤓 Giedrius

After 7 years and 41,000 miles I have sold my Karoq . Generally it has suited my needs quite well, being quite economical averaging around 40-45mpg. it has carried all sorts of bulky loads e.g. a very heavy log splitter and piles of logs but the one serious problem has precipitated the sale. Its intermiitent habit of stalling when entering a roundabout or dual caarriageway this has caused much irritation and has put me on several occasions in a dangerous position, what makes it worse is the VW refuse to acknowlege the problem that is rife on the internet across models using the 1.5 engine. The replacement a kia Xceed, that is not as large, the engine much simpler in its design and sold with a 7 year guarantee, Early days but I have found it rather rather more nippy than the Karoq with several nice improvements.

I would see if you can find a secondhand throttle body on ebay with a perfectly matching part number to the original. Get someone to fit it and adapt the ECU to it (I would gladly do that for you) and probably only spend about £100 total to find out if that fixes it. TBs are usually pretty reliable so most secondhand ones are probably fine.

I'm not familiar with it but a small amount of tiger seal would probably do the job... It kept the roof to windscreen seal in position on my old Honda Civic at silly speeds and also held the sill trims on too.

Hello all I was a frequent poster on her a few years ago but sadly I’ve been out of a Škoda for nearly 10 years and cannot for love nor money get into my old account but now, I’m happy to report I’m back in a Škoda! Ive recent purchased a car I’ve wanted for an embarrassingly long time, a Mk1 Yeti with the 170Ps engine. Fun fact 9 years ago I went to go to a dealership to view a Yeti, they had sold it before I got there..ended up ordering a brand new Mk3 Octavia vRS, the salesman was over joyed! I used to join in on Briskoda drives and happy to report still in contact after all these years with the lovely folk I met so I know this is a fantastic community!

First video looks like a lot of positive pressure. Malfunction in the EVAP system I think. Any recent work done on the engine?

Pretty sure most front wheel drive cars toe out..... Rear wheel drive toe in or parallel

ATE ceramic pads for sure and coated ATE discs That’s what I’m getting soon anyway for my fronts

You have 312mm vented discs on the front and 300mm solid discs on the back. All Superbs are the same except for the 280bhp versions which have 320 front, 310 rear.

Depends if you want an improvement in performance or not (and commensurate increase in price). One thing I will say is that ceramic pads are brilliant for low dust. I had some ATE Ceramic and it was night and day how little I had to clean the wheels. There was feedback that they were more aggressive on the discs (ceramic is harder than steel so that would make sense) but I ran them for only a year; maybe I didn’t run them for long enough or maybe the discs the person had used were soft.

Just did a couple on the front of my sons mk1. Found a tiny smear of silicone grease on bushes and subframe made the job a lot easier. Alasdair

If you have the keyless entry active I find the lock and unlock feature useful. I have walked away from the car several times locking my passenger in the vehicle and returning to find the alarm going off! Now I walk away and can unlock the car without this issue. I am sure there is a setting to leave an animal in the car to get around this problem but I haven't found it yet.

As always bear in mind with replacing parts, particularly when possibly not really required, that the existing part might be better, fit better function better, function for longer, than a new made part. At a stage of time rubber in parts could be really, really abysmal, to p1ss-poor if you were lucky, I think much of this has improved (it had to) but whether that is to the former quality of three decades or more back I don't know. Anything to do with the engine is lower down on a priority check and work list, particularly if you're not even driving the car.

Arh - slightly complicated. Your car needs G12Evo. This is not G12 or G13. What happened was that G13 was introduced around 2017, but VAG realised it was not environmentally friendly, so they created a modified G12 with additional cooling properties for more modern engines. The result is G12evo and is valid for most VAG cars from 2016 onwards (although any vehicle except a 2015 TDI150/180 combination) which need G13.

You could well be right but it might be a part problem, have a look for the issue in the Mk3 as well as Mk4 Fabia forums and probably in other models made around the same time, I've seen this issue reported before but can't remember the outcome(s). You could see if there are any updates to the computer systems, often solving or patching over one issue to introduce two more. I forget, have you checked for an admitted Recall. - https://www.skoda-auto.com/services/recall-campaigns Silent recalls are a different matter, they are the ones they know about but don't want to advertise hoping customers will pay for the work instead, you need to find Technical sheets they keep hidden for those. I would still suggest you check the battery and as you have got an appropriate battery charger maintainer fully recharge the battery to 100% rather than the car's set of about 80% it will do a 15 month old battery good and if the battery is good at 15 months old hopefully it will take the charge well. Age of battery means only so much of course it's use (abuse and neglect) affects its performance and longevity, even a brand new battery potentially can be depleted for various reasons. Smart is only a marketing term, none of these things are smart, they are extremely dumb really only following rules, same for AI and "smart" phones and other devices. It is only recently I have been promoted to a "critical thinker" rather than a Luddite against technologies I and we were using and having problems with decades back. I totally agree and it is correct. They are to help (fiddle) the figures rather than help the engine. I proved to my neighbour that they don't even help with fuel economy as the systems can't (yet?) see the road conditions ahead and make the judgements the driver can (or should). It was and is all part of this. - SSP-426-Start-stop-system-2009.pdf As I put have a search I'm sure this thing has come up before but sorry I can't remember the results - and check and recharge the battery, checking it's charging on the car might (or might not) help but at least possibly rule it out. Good luck, let us know how you get on.

Perhaps you should swap your Fabia for a Tesla https://www.youtube.com/shorts/WGT7d2PMryU

Yes. I went through tailgate to left side rubber grommet. Out d pillar and over headliner. Down c pillar (watch out for the airbag above c pillar. Has to be in the right place to put c pillar back) tucked in under leather down side of bench and then along bottom of door sills and up behind radio. Worst bits were routing through tailgate and rubber gaiter. It’s also tricky getting all the wires tucked in behind the radio. There may be a cable tie on the wires for the radio to the frame that prevents you pulling the radio out. You can get to it to cut it through the gap just above the fuse box.

I have ordered that camera just now, lets see how it goes, did you route via the door sills?

Leave the power on for about half an hour and it should go back to the entry screen. The procedure for entering the code is a bit odd, I can't remember what it is but it's in the owner's manual. I've used these for a few codes in the past and never had a problem https://www.onlineradiocodes.co.uk/

FWIW I have just replaced the rear springs on my 2015 Superb 280 L&K estate with DCC but no tow bar with Eibach R21706 items. There is a marked improvement to the ride and control of the rear in all DCC modes - the previous floatiness is gone and it doesn't feel too stiff/brittle, even unladen in DCC sport. The distance from rear wheel center to arch bodywork is 39cm when unladen with half a tank of fuel (cf. 38cm at the front, on the original springs at 65k miles). YMMV, etc., but I suspect you'd be happy with a set of those, given I am on a non-towbar car without the LPG tank.

Thanks for that. The car is 21 plate, and no recalls showing on the .gov site. Fingers crossed it’s not affected. 🤞

From memory it's just a time-based issue - leave it long enough and it will let you enter a new number...

Another plus for the Kia is that they still use a timimg chain so no worries about rubber timing belts breaking the downside is the engine is a bit noisier. Visibility is better in the Karoq due to the hatch back. Someone gave a plausible explanation for the stalling a while back suggesting that as the engine is so complex due to running on three cylinders when unloaded etc.that the manufacturing tolerances have to be spot on so if the odd car is slightly out of spec it could give rise to problems, that seems reasonable but not much consolation for maverick car owners.

@TonyW1967 Click report,leave the first line as is and below (in the reason section) write that you want to edit the title and add the proper one or send a pm to a Moderator with the proper title and he will do the job.

it's a 2 nuts and bolts job or needs to go to a repair-shop?

I once owned a BMW R69 600cc motorbike that had a twin-leading-shoe front drum brake. This brake (for its day) was very powerful and, when fitting new brake-shoes, owners were advised to chamfer the shoes' leading edge to prevent the brake grabbing. But that was with a drum brake... This video suggests filing the BACKING PLATE of disc-brake pads so that the calliper's piston will retract properly but I've never come across any suggestion that filing the edges/corners of a disc-brake pad (or of the pad's backing plate) might be a known ploy to reduce the sharpness of a vehicle's brakes. And, from fabia1960's postings, whatever the Skoda mechanics did filing-wise, made no improvement. I hesitate to say this, but it should be plain from the comments above that Fabia Mk4 braking at slow speeds is sharp (my 2024 Mk4's certainly is) and that this is a characteristic of the Mk4 breed and won't be considered a fault by Skoda unless the 'sharpness' is much worse than that of other Mk4s. Low-speed braking 'sharpness' is not confined to Fabia Mk4s, or to Skodas, or to other VW Group models. It's a widespread (and disliked) commonplace feature as this 2018 Ford discussion shows. https://www.fordownersclub.com/forums/topic/102221-really-sharp-brakes/ It really needs several owners of similar Fabia Mk4s to fabia1960's to test-drive fabia1960's car and comment on whether its braking is fundamentally different to that of their Fabias. If it is, then there's something wrong with fabia1960's car and, if it is not, then there isn't.

Don't replace them if you cannot find Gumokov/rubena bushings. They may be still available in some small shops or Skoda parts. Also, Hepu pump I bought some 6 year ago had them, but I don't know about current production. Chinese made mounts are typically very stiff rubber, which won't work well. Anyway, beside the square one, each needs some disassembly and press to change them. The bottom torque mount used to be available as a complete assembly, but that's not the case anymore, sou you'll need a press for that, too. Edit: I'd suggest to change the thread title. It should be descriptive of what's inside the thread.

My Karoq 1.5 is also 7 years old, doesn't stall and never has. Always strange to hear that some have issues.

If it slips, change it then Adjust driving to preserve clutch. Eg limit riding clutch and standstill burnouts I wouldn't worry about it unless it slips.

Usually fill my car to midway, if you overfill can cause problems, but I'm no mechanic! Never had any problems!

i have theese very lovely indeed To fit Skoda Octavia 2020+ Checker Rubber Car Mats [D] | eBay UK

Hi, I had a sunroof on my ex Superb Estate Mk3. I don't have it on my Kodiaq, but don't miss it. The light grey roof lining doesn't make the cabin to dark. IHMO, here are the 'must have' I would hardly go without now: Matrix LED front beams DSG Keyless system Heated seats Blind spot detection ACC DCC Backup camera On the contrary, here are those I could go without: Vented seats Ergo seats Lane Assist Heated windcreen Heated steering wheel 360° camera Electric tailgate / Virtual pedal Auto-Hold

I have these, they are brilliant.

https://skodapartsdirect.co.uk/product/skoda-octavia-2020-present-rubber-mat-set/

I think that a 205mm wide tyre is 20mm wider than a 185mm wide tyre. This is not the only width/height problem. The spare tool kit foam insert sits at different heights depending on the spare wheel being used. I see some of my photos are above illustrating this very point. Thanks. AG Falco

I don't think it matter with this but be selective with what you tie-wrap or cable-tie to what and how tightly. As a totally non-specific example to your car, many cable-tie HT leads together this may not be good idea with certain engine set ups. And just for the fun of it as I referred to cable-ties and as you may encounter wiring needs on the car.

nta16 I own the car only for the past 6 months but at it's service history i can see that original battery has been replaced under warranty 15 months ago. Don't know the reason, but the fact remains that is a fairly new battery. Anyway, i have a CTEK charger so i will give it a full charge and see what happens. My guess is that regardless charging it will fix it's self randomly just as the previous times

Now sold

A couple more AliExpress upgrades today. The LED lights in the tailgate are very bright. All the light in that photo is from them. Next up will be front door speakers once they get delivered. And then wireless car play.

Controlling RPM is not important when regenning a GPF - ensure vehicle is in ICE mode, disable coasting, get engine fully up to normal temperature, get up to speed and back-off throttle several times (probably ideal going downhill)

I discovered this useful access panel in the Side panels of the boot. There is one each side and they give access to the wiring, pan roof drain pipes and thd back of the rear light clusters (for small hands). This kid the left side and if sort of hinges, the other 3 sides are released by squeezing them.

I guess it does not apply to PHEVs, does it? I can't think of how I could control engine rpm on PHEV.

Hello there, Been browsing through many interesting topics since I bought a 2005 Mk2 Octavia DSG estate. Look forward joining in discussions. Cheers

Mine’s non-DCC. Sachs on the front, and as they could only get Monroe at the time, those are on the rear. I’d rather have had the same but as they are both reasonable brands and OEM spec I wasn’t that bothered, and they’ll outlast my time of owning the car.

Got mine from carmats.co.uk

Did my interim 6-monthly service for Gandalf today. But this time round I bought this gadget which made filling the engine with new oil so much easier and far more precise (measurement). It holds up to 1.5L Highly recommend it for those who perform their own oil changes. Link to the product here.

I formerly thought the same thing as you, until I asked some tips to our Master Superb Mk3 Guru @ApertureS 👋 before replacing the rear brake pads on my ex-Superb Mk3. He told me to push straight to avoid making dammage (on the piston seals or on the EPB motors, I can't remember honestly), thus I pushed forward and everything went as planned.

A number of sites I've checked state coolant PH should be in the range of 8.5 to 9.5 and should be changed if lower than 8.0. Some other sites say 9.0 to 10.5, the high end of which might seem a little too alkaline for me.